EIFS specs 1/2" gaps @ all penetrations.
Here's a 1/2" caulk bead @ 240 monthsAttachment 507099
Dirty, but no shrinkage or cracking
Printable View
EIFS specs 1/2" gaps @ all penetrations.
Here's a 1/2" caulk bead @ 240 monthsAttachment 507099
Dirty, but no shrinkage or cracking
Do you remember what product? I kinda gave a short cut answer. Yes, there is shit that squirts out of a tube and will span a 1/2 gap and stand the test of time. Big Stretch and Log Jam for example.
Looks like somewhat did a good job on your crib.
If I was gonna complicate things and require a laser straight cut line with minimal side distance, I'd get a mini circular saw and set up a straight edge beside my line and hold the little saw to that edge for a straight line. Getting any other power tool close enough to the raised hearth will be likely unpossible. A mini blade could get within an inch, maybe better.
Jockeying a toe cut saw vertically would be impressive.
I like Sashco stuff and find working with chinking and that stuff FoGo said, is pretty easy and it's durable. I use a brick tuck pointer trowel and a water spray bottle to finish the material smoothly.
LOL when do they do that? Fucking hacks never do that shit right.Quote:
Originally Posted by tuco
True dat! Weren't most EIFS failures due to shit installation? Even the hard coat guys around here just stucco everything.Quote:
Originally Posted by I Skied Bandini Mountain
Did someone say shit installation? Properly installed EIFS is an exception around here.Quote:
Originally Posted by Foggy_Goggles
Attachment 507138
Attachment 507139
In the commercial world we see [emoji637]”+ caulk joints all the time, sometimes even up to [emoji638]-[emoji639]”…
Sure a cheap tube from HD won’t span that. But a proper professional level product, backed correctly, prepped correctly, will last.
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
Actually, that's my Mom's house in CH.Quote:
Originally Posted by Foggy_Goggles
Big Stretch is good. But for most critical exterior joints Quad or Quad Max will way outperform it.
Everything in those pictures was installed by my brother and myself in 2004.
Caulk was BASF MasterSeal NP1. But longevity starts with a well constructed joint
That's why sometimes ya just gotta do shit yerself:smile:Quote:
Originally Posted by I Skied Bandini Mountain
Actually, I work on multimillion dollar 'estates' on the regular. Shocking lack of true craftsmanship abounds even in this world
wondering how that window weeps...Quote:
Originally Posted by I Skied Bandini Mountain
Do you use the Quad Max as backer then the NP1 over the top.
I'm a trim nerd. I just make the inside look pretty. Exterior details are not my stong point.
Box Cars...you refering to weep holes that drain the track? I usually only see those on sliders and the drain to the interior....or something else?
Behind the rock veneer where it gets soaked up by the OSB sheeting.Quote:
Originally Posted by ::: :::
No, that will create a 3-way bond. The result will be cracking because caulk is designed to stretch 2 dimensionally. Backer rod will break that 3 way bond and also force the caulk into better contact w/ the sides of the joint. We used backer rod.Quote:
Originally Posted by Foggy_Goggles
That 1/2" gap on the EIFS enables the edge of the foam board to be base coated, which actually is the waterproofing coat
not all windows have them, but most decent windows have a weep systemQuote:
Originally Posted by Foggy_Goggles
that's why we seal jambs & head but not sills typically
it's possible they drain to the cavity & stay in front of the WRB; or that these just don't have weepsQuote:
Originally Posted by I Skied Bandini Mountain
there it isQuote:
Originally Posted by tuco
hopefully no cavities where the two casements mull together
What WRB?? ;) Refer to picture 2 above. Whole front of the house is going to get peeled.Quote:
Originally Posted by ::: :::
There should be a weep and a drip edge @ that transitionQuote:
Originally Posted by I Skied Bandini Mountain
Kitchen cabinet doors are getting a little worn. Pictured is the worst of them, the effects of a decade above an electric teakettle.
Any tricks for sanding other than using a block to keep things flat? I’ve never loved the results of brushed/rolled poly and don’t have a sprayer. Any experience with spray cans of polyurethane? At ten bucks a can seems like a cheap experiment unless it’s total garbage.
The cheap airless sprayers on Amazon actually work really well…
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
You mean like a Wagner-style, HVLP gun?Quote:
Originally Posted by nickwm[emoji638
Ordering engineered hardwood flooring for the second floor (same as what's on the first floor).
Thoughts on stapling vs. nailing?
Use the spec'd fastener. Usually engineered is a narrow crown stapler. Use a gun like this https://www.amazon.com/Metabo-HPT-Pn...435181218&th=1
Negative. Get an airless. Cordless need two batteries (can’t get caught mid job). The graco is the bomb. But for one job the cheap Amazon should work.Quote:
Originally Posted by bagtagley
There are corded versions harbor freight has one for $69
Get the clean and lube fluid for after the job otherwise it rusts inside. Pump armor.
Degrease!
Sanding block (unless you’re going to bare wood, then use orbital first)
Stain as needed
Airless spray. 220scuff between coats.
Easy job if you can lay them all out in a warm garage.
Go with the grain.
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
I've been getting good results with Minwax wipe on poly on my furniture. The coats are very thin so a lot of coats needed. For a job that big I'd be tempted to spray but I have no personal experience.
my neighbor did his 100+ yr old log house with Perma-Chink which does not seem like a very culturaly appropriate name for a productbut buddy did some very wide joints,Quote:
Originally Posted by nickwm21
as for prep he just went right over the moss that had been stuffed between the logs 100yrs ago
=