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Hardware store wire rack shelves are extremely sturdy and not much more expensive, and you can set the shelf height to your desire for being able to hang things. Though I liked how the one I linked has the shelves on the left and the hanging bars on the right.Quote:
Originally Posted by volklpowdermaniac
If I were to take this seriously:Quote:
Originally Posted by Meconium
1) talcum powder
2) get a long enough dick to place it to one side of the other
3) manscape
Your post is ridiculous :)
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Stanchion tubes could be misaligned. My friend Diaz recently told me they are only seeing about 25% of folks with good alignment out of the factories. "Good" is a relative definition and Diaz is a bit of a perfectionist.Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
So moral of story: send your fork to Diaz suspension designs or equivalent. Could be misaligned stanchions/lowers or even a bent stanchion. Zeb is a good fork. Some people prefer the pre-buttercuos model. I don't remember which one you have.
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Interesting.Quote:
Originally Posted by skinipenem
- I pulled lowers and pulled air spring assembly.
- Airspring didn't have buttloads of grease. Just a little bit. Cleaned it off and put slick honey on. Maxima 7.5wt below the airspring (supposedly equivalent to Maxima Plush "Light". Fox 20wt Gold on top of the airspring. I guess this will work. Maxima Plush "Heavy" is a 30wt apparently.
- Cleaned lowers......installed new wipers/foam. 0-w30 in the lowers.
I guess it feels a bit better riding around the neighborhood. I probably should bleed the damper though. I swear going full compression or no compression feels exactly the same on the lower end RC damper. Who knows.
Have you tried drinking piss?Quote:
Originally Posted by Meconium
User name checks out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Meconium
This is the wayQuote:
Originally Posted by mcski
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In case anyone else runs across this, a few weeks back I asked here for likely culprits on creaking while seated pedaling on my SC Nomad. Culprit was seatpost shim adapter (30.9-31.6), as I thought might be the case. I originally used a cheap, silver Problem Solvers shim. I thought that since it was shiny & smooth, it might not have enough grip. I tried carbon assembly compound outside it and grease inside it, and it quieted the creak for a bit but it came back. I then replaced it with a black anodized Cane Creek shim, again with carbon assembly compound outside and grease inside, and it's been silent ever since.
It is knownQuote:
Originally Posted by skinipenem
When i got the brand new yeti 5.5 it was twice as much $ as I had ever paid for a bike and it still squeaked
But not standing up so i tried every thing from grease to teflon tape and the only thing that worked is the carbon assembly paste
another guy who bought a 5.5 at the same time also had a squeaking seat post also fixed by carbon paste
get some
OK so I put down a pretty good time on my local "test track" today. Bike still shudders like it wants to throw me off the track.
I made one adjustment before the dh. Slowed down fork rebound a few clicks. Maybe it helped a bit....idk.
How much of this crazy shuddering could be damper related?
Airspring? I'm running one token. 50psi. 30% sag.
I'm fucking mystified.
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30% sounds like a decent amount of sag...Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
Sometimes you get more into the progressive part of the curve to start so you'll feel that ramp up.
It's counter intuitive but a little more air MAY help.
That's what I did in the back end of my megatower to get it to feel a little less 'harsh'
I think the only useful advice so far is the manscape. Wright or wrong I pull the junk straight up and not left or right. I think the problem is chamois tip/penis tip interference and too flexible spandex as often found in liner shorts vs dedicated standalone spandex shorts.Quote:
Originally Posted by skinipenem
What short/chamois brands have a more elongated, thinner cup/codpiece up front?
I have probably the most average body size 5'10", 165lbs size 9.5 foot and average dink. Assuming I'm loosing dick circulation on longer rides and it shrinks a bit.
So I'm starting to realize this harshness if coming from the fork for sure and not the rear end. The harshness/shuddering then causes a weird see-saw shuddering and the whole bike feels unplanted like a bucking bronco. I'm not even using full travel so I don't think it's a "not enough air/fork packing up" scenario.Quote:
Originally Posted by grskier
I just grabbed two more tokens from the shop to see if that somehow helps. Fuck.
I would just get a new fork, start fresh. There are deals to be had.
30% fork sag is way too much, especially on an old model Zeb, which didn't have much mid-stroke. You should be running 20% tops. Your bike probably feels harsh because you're in the bottom of the stroke all the time. Running a shitload of sag and a ton of volume tokens is just bad.
Almost every bike out there is designed around running ~30% rear sag, 20% front sag. (Static sag. I am assuming you're not running a fancy data acquisition system that's telling you dynamic sag, in which case 30% front/rear is normal.)
This.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andeh
Apparently the fork is shitty; I can’t comment on that.
But pump the fork up to get a more reasonable amount of sag so that you’re not running in the highly progressive part of the spring curve so much of the time.
If at that new pressure you aren’t bottoming out ever, then you could consider taking out the volume spacer (though a single spacer obviously isn’t excessive…)
WRG, do you have access to a shockwiz? If not, I’ve got one in SLC I’d lend ya for a cold tall boy if you wind up this way
I'm pretty sure I don't ride near as hard as WRG, but I tend to prefer slightly higher pressures (less sag), and also fewer tokens (like 1 less than whatever the factory recommended or shipped the fork with pre-installed). I also tend to use very little compression damping and moderately quick rebound - not pogo stick wide open, but a long way away from packing down on repeated impacts.
YMMV?
Has anyone tried shorts with the chamois deleted in the front? Might be thinking about this backwards.
https://youtu.be/GiI2QMOtzGs
Link https://www.bn3th.com/products/north...er-short-black
I remain of the opinion that the zeb airspring is meh. You can have compliance or you can have support, but you cannot have both. And the middle ground is underwhelming. Supposedly that's better on the new ones - haven't ridden one yet. But on the older ones, I think it's pretty easy to go chasing down goofy rabbit holes trying to find a ride feel that just doesn't really exist. I'm sure that's all compounded by a mediocre damper on the Select models. And it certainly could be compounded further by some alignment and/or bushing issues.
I have wore their underwear for 15+ years, and I have a few of their chamois. They are great, give them a try!Quote:
Originally Posted by Meconium
MMDNV (my mileage does not vary).Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
What wheels are you running?Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
Your fork is too soft and there's no need for tokens at your weight on an early Zeb. Luftkappe is a common upgrade. Or coil conversion. Or TruTone maybe?
I struggled to setup my early Zeb, even using a Shockwiz. Shockwiz recommended 47 PSI and 1 spacer at 185 lbs on a 170. I ended up at 64 PSI and 0 spacers. I got along well with it until the damper blew. 23 model at 69 PSI (nice). I might try a TruTone insert this summer to achieve full travel.