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https://www.eia.gov/dnav/ng/ng_move_expc_s1_a.htmQuote:
Originally Posted by skaredshtles
We export Nat gas
Lots of it.
PS. Ever heard of a peaker? You know the Nat gas fueled generators that lets you run your AC in the city on a hot night?
PPS. Fracking is ugly. And bad. Mkay
bb for sure. tbh if you are just looking to heat occasionally heat pump is not it. If you were to keep it at constant temp heat pump is def it. Certainly is it for house with cheap ass electricity rates in jackson and the green power coming from bonneville.
coreshot - i've prob posted this before but if we are going to talk energy production this site rules:
https://app.electricitymaps.com/zone/US-NW-PACE/24h
Shows all real time production by grid.
I'm not sure what you mean exactly, but depending on the age of your place or any previous leaks or whatever, it may or may not be worth it. Ceiling is typically "easy" if you have access and biggest bang for the buck. Retro insulation is a suck job for sure.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mazderati
Adding attic insulation and improving ventilation will pay off quick. So will running around with a caulk gun to seal windows at interiors and exteriors. If you have forced air with accessible ducts in the basement/crawlspace, sealing all the joints, elbows and takeoffs with mastic is a cheap and easy way to increase HVAC efficiency and save money. If you want to spend a little more money and have fun (or scare yourself) you can buy a little Flir IR imagining attachment for you phone for around $150 and it will show all your air leaks and insulation issues.
The heat pump is interesting but upon further look, it seems like overkill for this situation. But I liked learning about how that product works, so appreciate the suggestion.
Thanks for the anecdotes on the electric garage heaters - I think I was overthinking it- the model slightly oversized for my garage sq footage should be fine.
I’m not looking to keep it home temps, more like 45*ish consistently and then the ability to get it up to 55* or so before using the ski bench or weight bench. Taking the chill off enough to actually want to be out there.
Djongo yes thank you- maybe wrangle you in this spring.
Garage help for the Porsche Beijing [emoji23]
That’s a cool link. Thx.Quote:
Originally Posted by NBABUCKS1
PS. In a past life I negotiated trading agreements with Enron. Dicks. Arrogant fucks.
Forced congestion into California after they had a forward short position on supply. I was delighted when they tanked.
PPS. The team I was negotiating with from cantor Fitzgerald died on 9/11. That sucked.
I've been geeking out on the cheap Chinese diesel heaters lately and a lot of people are using those to heat garages and stuff.Quote:
Originally Posted by babybear
We have considered doing the same thing you are but just haven't bit the bullet yet. Our garage is stuffed to the brim and insulating will be a pretty big and annoying project.
Spray foam companies saying spray foam is the best. Cellulose companies saying cellulose is the best. It seems like a lot of companies do not consider the longer-term, bigger picture. Basically, when you're a hammer, everything is a nail.Quote:
Originally Posted by jackstraw
While spray foam can be magical in the right situation, it is a bit of a only-if-you-have-to product these days
When it comes to building science Design & Installation > Products
If you are not naturally skeptical of the sales angle, that's on you
For ya'll talking about insulated garages, what is the as built? Attached/detached? Drywall or none? How is the electrical run? What about the fire separation to the living space?
Ah, yeah. Seems like spray foam would be ideal for new homes, but less green than cellulose. And assuming cellulose would be easier for retro installation, but idk. Labor is probably the biggest expense and any insulation you choose will most likely give a good ROI long term, so I'd probably go with the cheapest bottom line.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mazderati
As someone that recently went from shitty old wood garage doors to steel insulated ones - that alone makes a world of difference.
I thot I seen something recently that spray fpoam is nasty stuff and don't you need to pay an aplication company so you can't DIY ??Quote:
Originally Posted by Mazderati
I did my own blown-in-cellulose, I blew it over the existing 6" pink FG batts so it was pretty easy, you blow it in up there over everything so it fills all gaps,
there is a few days of easy/ dirty prep but the actulay job took half a day
while you are up there make sure to wear a mask, the tyvek overalls taped at the arms and legs, wear a helmet so you don't get a nail in the head, spring or fall is the best time becuz it will be fucking hot up there
go up a day ahead of time ahead of time to put baffles inbetween all the roof 2x4's which keeps your gable vents clear, build all the hatch/ vent openings up to at least 18", mark a stick at 18" ( gives you R50) and go round all over your attic marking 18" on the joists with a marker pen so you know how much product you are blowing and where so now you are ready to blow baby blow
the local building supply where i bought the bags of cellulose lent me a free m/c but i needed a hopper bitch to load it, my buddy needed a bitch to do his job so we loaded each other's hoppers
thats it, I forget the exact #'s but I was instantly saving > 100 $ a month, there was a rebate program both federal/ provincial which paid for both the insulation and HE furnace instal but it was awesume and it all got paid for
the program also paid for some weatehr stripping but the funace and insulation were by far the lions share of the savings
spray foam better for retro fit, but only in appropriate climate zones when used at allQuote:
Originally Posted by jackstraw
& way less green than cellulose
What's the cheapest/easiest option for low-pitch roofing?
My garage/breezeway is 1:12 pitch, currently has multiple layers of rolled asphalt and it's leaking horribly, wanting to pull it all off this spring, replace a bunch of sheathing, and put on a much better product.
Thinking about metal standing seam, Menard's has decent looking stuff for like $1300 plus underlayment and edges, not sure if there's other things I should be looking at. Area is about 800square feet in an L- pattern
torch-on is modern day replacment for tar and gravel and the low slope roof
when ever I look at buying a house the 1st thing I check is what kinda roof
what is it gona cost if the roof shits the bed ?
Its usually pretty easy to stick with duroid shingles
Do you get snow? If so, good luck and EPDM. Flat roofs can work great but it ain't gonna be cheap and you have to know what you are doing. I've got membrane roofs performing well after +/- 10 years in deck over living space situations on large condo building but they were expensive with a lot of well thought out flashing and a pro install crew.
yeah torch-on is a pro job which does not necessarily mean the guy is a pro the GF had a guy do torch-on, much higher price than a duroid she with-held 10% for something (forget) but he never came back for it
I won't go near shake roof either,lots of rotting shake all over vancover my BIL said " shake is no problem I just get a crew of guys ( all named singh ) on that roof, its done in a day and I get 10% off if I pay cash "
Thanks, all. Yes, snow load is an issue, Luckily this flat roof isn't over finished areas, just an open breezeway and a 1.5car garage. I'll look at EPDM too, was just thinking standing seam metal would be easy to DIY and the prices I've gotten are very reasonable. Honestly it's lasted 75 years with rolled tar and gravel and the worst that's happening is some leaking and peeling of the paint on the underside, so anything I put on will be an improvement.Quote:
Originally Posted by Foggy_Goggles
Don’t do standing seam on a low slope + snow.
DIY - find some [emoji638]ply peal and stick product.
Pro - price EPDM or SBS (torch down)
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
All of a sudden all the new houses I see being built around Donner Lake are almost flat roofed Malibu beach houses. Hope the local roofers know how to deal with those. Actually, I don't care if they do or not.
I'd put down new plywood, a layer or 2 of grace shield, then put down 2x4's on edge every other stud, then blueboard between stringers to make a cold roof and finish with metal roof sheeting.
Dry, warm and snowload support increased.
And all of those steps are fairly simple and quick yet not too costly.
For an open breezeway I’d put another layer of roll over it if it’s only one layer. Cheap. Quick. Easy. Unless you already have two layers. Or if you have the money go big.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leaky_condo_crisisQuote:
Originally Posted by old goat
HA ! those crazy Canucks already tried it with disastrous results and consequences
" A major design aesthetic of the 1980s and 1990s was Post Modernism, which featured building styles and forms reminiscent of the Mediterranean and southern California. This design approach was heavily marketed and became a fashionable design motif. Common building elements of this time included roof parapets with no overhangs or eaves, stucco wall cladding, open walkways, arched windows, and complex cladding joints, all of which provided more opportunities for water penetration and acted, as several studies would confirm, as key contributors to water infiltration "
a perfect storm of bad ideas and worth the read
I always wonder how those new builds, shaped around various modern box styles, worked in high precip areas. Fun to drive through Revelstoke, and see those modern boxes right next to 100yo homes with steep pitched metal roofs. Which will last longer I wonder.