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Modern short travel bikes are super super fun. My big bike is out of commission so I was in Moab this weekend on my Pivot Mach 4. It has beat down XC race tires that I installed before a bikepacking trip on forrest roads last fall… I meant to swap them over but ran out of time before heading out the door.

Despite bald tires and short travel it was fun in all contexts. I did a few 20 mile evening pedals around the needles in Canyonlands and rode some of the burlier trails. I rode Capitan Ahab today and on the short travel bike was really fun as you can just hammer out a few pedal strokes and build momentum. Yes, you can absolutely bottom it out but with good line choice the sky is the limit.

Its also a joy on all day rides.

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Originally Posted by D(C)

Looking for opinions on what to do with my bike quiver. The bike I use most is a Norco Sight 29 (current version), set up with a Zeb and Double Down tires. Then, as a second bike, I have a Chromag Primer with 160 mm Fox 36, and currently set up with EXO DHR front/Rekon rear tires. I use the Chromag for quick, efficient rides, when I’m short on time and want to get a good pedal in.

I’m debating getting a modern short travel bike like a Transition Spur or Rocky Element to replace the Chromag. I wouldn’t mind having a bit more traction on technical climbs and a bit more comfort and ability to hold a line on descents.

My main concern is that a Spur or Element are too capable. I’ve tried aggressive short travel bikes in the past (Kona Process 111, Devinci Django, OG Transition Smuggler) and they all felt like different variants of a bike you’d want to rip descents on. My hope for this latest crop of short travel bikes is that they’d be more of a rocket on the way up and a bit closer to a hardtail type of experience on the downs.

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Originally Posted by D(C)

Yeah, actually the bike I think about as I’m writing this is a Santa Cruz 5010 I rode at Kingdom Trails back in 2018. That thing was a rocket, and so much fun on twisty trails.

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I think the current Ibis Mojo is reasonably close to what the 5010 used to be, before SC mulleted it.

The issue that I ran into with the Element was that after doing all of the things I like to do to make it bomber, it really wasn’t much lighter than a bigger bike.
Piggyback shock
DD tires
203 rotors
4 pot brakes
Etc.
Also I thought the Pike 140 was a a bit of a noodle when coming off the 170 Zeb on the Altitude.
It definitely was a snappier climber than my current Instinctitude, but it wasn’t like I was that much faster, as it still weighed 28 pounds. But it was more ‘efficient’, I guess.
Very, very awesome bike for the right pilot, either way.

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Originally Posted by east or bust

Another surprise for today, apparently forgot to drain the bladder in my mtb pack. No visible mold, no smell... Am I good to just rinse it out and let it dry or is there a way to actually clean it that won't leave a nasty taste?

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Is this an actual thing? I think i average once every 2-3 years for bladder cleaning. And I pay zero attention to how much water is I the bladder between rides, other than usually realizing I brought too much.
But I only put water in there.
I recently pulled out a ski pack that had been packed away for 4 years. Zero issue.
My bite valves get nasty though.



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As long as it’s just water, it’s probably fine if you rinse and it dries out completely. If you add anything it will def get moldy af. Wet May or May not get nasty. Especially tube end and mouth piece. I douse mine regularly

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Originally Posted by jm2e

Is this an actual thing? I think i average once every 2-3 years for bladder cleaning. And I pay zero attention to how much water is I the bladder between rides, other than usually realizing I brought too much.
But I only put water in there.
I recently pulled out a ski pack that had been packed away for 4 years. Zero issue.
My bite valves get nasty though.



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Exactly what I thought.
If you're worried, check the google. Lots of info on using a bleach/water solution to clean out bladder gunk.

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Originally Posted by rideit

The issue that I ran into with the Element was that after doing all of the things I like to do to make it bomber, it really wasn’t much lighter than a bigger bike.
Piggyback shock
DD tires
203 rotors
4 pot brakes
Etc.
Also I thought the Pike 140 was a a bit of a noodle when coming off the 170 Zeb on the Altitude.
It definitely was a snappier climber than my current Instinctitude, but it wasn’t like I was that much faster, as it still weighed 28 pounds. But it was more ‘efficient’, I guess.
Very, very awesome bike for the right pilot, either way.

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That’s the risk. You get a light bike then end up setting it up so it’s fun on proper descents, and it becomes just a less capable version of your bigger bike.

I think the key is the keep the light bike light, like running fast tires that are a bit more sketchy. But then that bike may have limited utility in some riding areas.

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Originally Posted by D(C)

That’s the risk. You get a light bike then end up setting it up so it’s fun on proper descents, and it becomes just a less capable version of your bigger bike.

I think the key is the keep the light bike light, like running fast tires that are a bit more sketchy. But then that bike may have limited utility in some riding areas.

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Yeah, same issue I had. And yeah, I could have kept the Spur a bit lighter, but personally I just don't find that to make for a fun bike. Sure, I can go uphill a bit faster, but I still want to enjoy the descents, and I don't find the descents enjoyable on a pinner XC bike with shitty tires pumped up to 40psi in an often unsuccessful attempt at keeping air in them. I just found myself thinking that I gladly would've lugged a few more pounds up the hill if it meant I could actually have fun on the way back down.

If I lived somewhere much flatter, where my riding primarily consisted of putting in miles as opposed to doing a big climb to a big descent, then I think I would be a lot more excited about something like the Spur with a light-ish setup. But personally, for any ride that involves actual descents, I want more bike than the downcountry options.

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Originally Posted by D(C)

That’s the risk. You get a light bike then end up setting it up so it’s fun on proper descents, and it becomes just a less capable version of your bigger bike.

I think the key is the keep the light bike light, like running fast tires that are a bit more sketchy. But then that bike may have limited utility in some riding areas.

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My Epic Evo is the most fun with a Thunder Burt on the back. Super fast and super sketchy; keeps me on my toes. But, set up like that there are places I just won't ride it. It's like racing a rally car vs. a stadium super truck. Both are fun in their element and totally lame outside it.
I think that's a trade-off that anyone with a bigger and a smaller bike has to make. If you want to to ride the same trails on both bikes, then you're going to be disappointed by one of them.

What needs to be done is that the bigger and smaller bikes are optimized for different riding.

At one point I tried a dhf/aggressor on my hei hei (120/120mm), and it didn't really work for me just because of how heavy and slow those tires are to pedal around. The vittoria syerras I had on last were kind of ideal for that bike as they still roll pretty fast but are tougher and have better grip than an XC tire. But I also don't really want or need a bigger bike for what i do and most of the trails around here.

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Originally Posted by XtrPickels

What needs to be done is that the bigger and smaller bikes are optimized for different riding.

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And for different styles and mindset of riding. I'll ride the same trail quite differently on Ti hardtail vs Firebird

Well now I’m rethinking how I built my Tallboy! Haha…. Lighter IS the way….


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Multiple questions after 2 failed pinch flat repairs:

What is the expectation for Park VP-1 self adhesive patches? Are they ‘just good enough to let you ride a few miles’? The first double patch repair over parallel tube splits lasted maybe 30 minutes. Then I bridged them with another which worked overnight and then for an hour ride, then went flat within an hour or two.

Attachment 456872

Attachment 456873

I’m still trying to visualize how the two parallel slits occurred. Could the rim tape cut the tube with too little air? There is a sharp corner on the tape edge.

Attachment 456874

With tons of old patches and no glue, what off the shelf glues will work and have a shelf life longer than a month.[emoji849]



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Originally Posted by Alpinord

With tons of old patches and no glue, what off the shelf glues will work and have a shelf life longer than a month.[emoji849]

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Auto parts store should be able to sell you a patch kit for like $2 that includes a tube of glue (and a few heavy duty patches meant for tires). They should also be able to sell you big metal jars of vulcanizing cement that will last you a long time: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7...pressionRank=1

And yeah, those park glueless patches are a mixed bag. They will get you home, and with a nice clean surface might last a long time on a small puncture. Once you start to add pinch flats, raised seams on the tube, and dirt to the mix they become a temporary solution at best.

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Originally Posted by Alpinord

I’m still trying to visualize how the two parallel slits occurred. Could the rim tape cut the tube with too little air? There is a sharp corner on the tape edge.

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2 parallel slits is a classic pinch flat. Tube got pinched between the tire and the rim on an impact. Preventative solution is to just run more pressure.

And yeah, like singlesline said, those glueless patches are very hit or miss. Mostly miss. Normal patches + vulcanizing glue is the best bet.

Two parallel slits is a pinch flat. Just get a patch kit that uses glue, or switch to tubeless.

Thanks. Yeah, I paid the price trying to soften the ride a few pounds too much for my wife’s tire. Just back from the LBS and discussed the pros and cons of the pre-glued patches vs vulcanized where pre-glued can be fine and quicker for smaller punctures whereas vulcanized patches are better for larger ones like ‘snake bite/pinch’ slits. YMMV.

Since the glue always seems to dry up before running out of patches, it’d be good to know other glue options like this weekend when I pulled out my patch kit and was SOL. We kicked around superglue and Gorilla glue as possible options.

Her Allant +7 tires are tube only and the original plan was to get tubeless when these wore out. But, given that the Schwalbe G-One, 650x57c are not real great on more gravely and sandy surfaces, I am wanting to replace them with more capable (tubeless) tires and open for suggestions.

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"All tires and rims are tubeless, if you aren't a pussy"


Funny enough, this was actually the thinking around 2003. And that thinking sent me careening into a tree headfirst.

No spare tube? That's my first line of defense rather than messing with patches.

All my MTBs are tubeless but I have tubes in the road and gravel bikes. I'll use self-glued patches as a quick fix to get home (if the spare tube fails or I flat twice), but then either replace the tube or re-patch with vulcanized. The self-glued ones definitely can fail.

You can buy the Rema cement tubes separately, generally they don't dry out until opened, and even then they'll be OK for a few months. I try to check them at the end of the year and replace any that are open.

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Originally Posted by teledad

No spare tube? That's my first line of defense rather than messing with patches.

All my MTBs are tubeless but I have tubes in the road and gravel bikes. I'll use self-glued patches as a quick fix to get home (if the spare tube fails or I flat twice), but then either replace the tube or re-patch with vulcanized. The self-glued ones definitely can fail.

You can buy the Rema cement tubes separately, generally they don't dry out until opened, and even then they'll be OK for a few months. I try to check them at the end of the year and replace any that are open.

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This was during the first camping shake down trip of the season with a zillion jig saw puzzle pieces to pull together to get out the door. The extra tubes for her bike were among a few of the missing pieces. I asked today for extra cement tubes, but they weren't stocked and will look for some.

I’ve been trying to get those Rema glue tubes for months and they’ve been out of stock at my distributors.


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Originally Posted by joetron

I’ve been trying to get those Rema glue tubes for months and they’ve been out of stock at my distributors.

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Those 5 gram Rema glue tubes are in stock at QBP again.

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Originally Posted by Alpinord

Thanks. Yeah, I paid the price trying to soften the ride a few pounds too much for my wife’s tire. Just back from the LBS and discussed the pros and cons of the pre-glued patches vs vulcanized where pre-glued can be fine and quicker for smaller punctures whereas vulcanized patches are better for larger ones like ‘snake bite/pinch’ slits. YMMV.

Since the glue always seems to dry up before running out of patches, it’d be good to know other glue options like this weekend when I pulled out my patch kit and was SOL. We kicked around superglue and Gorilla glue as possible options.

Her Allant +7 tires are tube only and the original plan was to get tubeless when these wore out. But, given that the Schwalbe G-One, 650x57c are not real great on more gravely and sandy surfaces, I am wanting to replace them with more capable (tubeless) tires and open for suggestions.

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Get glue in small tubes. But buy a set for better price and to have some unopened supply if the open one dries up: 4 Tubes Rema SVS-Vulc Tube Patch Vulcanizing Cement 5 Gram (7 ml) https://a.co/d/f7Dh3Zy

And cary a spare tube. Even on a tubeless set up a spare tube may come in handy or save someone’s day.

So on the other end of the "light vs capable" discussion, I'm currently obsessing over new bikes at the Enduro catagory. I started biking on a Giant Trance 27.5, upgraded to a Ripmo AF last year, been flogging it a ton, upgraded the wheels to carbon, got a cascade link, stroked the fork out to 170, and I'm not super happy with the bike still. Yeah the pedals are fairly efficient but when it weighs 37 pounds, the rear triangle feels like a noodle, and you run DD casings, I'm not sure how big a difference the DW link makes.

My "casual" evening ride is 2500-3500 feet of climbing and descending fast flow up to double black slab/chunk and DH lines with gaps and big drops. Am I crazy to consider a 170 bike like a Spire even though I climb a ton? I know its a "good" climber, but I think it's fair to say I do a fair amount more climbing than your average "endurBro".

Anyone have a solution for squeaky SPD pedals? I have a pair of Saints and they squeak annoyingly when my feet shift side to side, usually when climbing techy stuff like if the rear wheel kicks over to one side or if I’m doing any hopping. The squeak is almost definitely from the cleat rubbing on the spindle and not an internal pedal issue. I have tried lightly lubing the pedal which fixes the noise but becomes an absolutely filthy dirt magnet until it wears off after a few rides. Would new cleats maybe help? Mine are old and all the black finish is worn off