Thx!Quote:
Originally Posted by BCMtnHound
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Thx!Quote:
Originally Posted by BCMtnHound
I don’t have a rule of thumb, but that’s going to be a pretty heavy piece of wood.Quote:
Originally Posted by bodywhomper
Yep. Quick crunch with his estimate number, add side branches and leaves, maybe 1800lbs? That'll leave a mark.Quote:
Originally Posted by Meadow Skipper
Yep. I haven’t run the calculation yet… but I will.Quote:
Originally Posted by BCMtnHound
I tried to take and mark-up a photo, which I found challenging. The red line is some of the stem. The top extends out of the photo. The green circle is the notch that the cord will be tied to. You can see a notch on the stem to the looker right at a similar distance to the ground. The cord will go through that notch and then “tie-off” (wraps) on the oak’s trunk.
Attachment 381540
Good plan. That's a good-sized limb/leader but even this line would suffice. https://www.treestuff.com/yale-xtc-t...arborist-rope/ I still have a 250-300 foot length of it that is probably 20 years old.
If you rig it with no slack, the force that could be applied to it couldn't reach it's working load of ~1100 lb (5:1 to tensile strength) Be sure to rig it at least 1/2 way out from the crotch. Also, you could mid-tie the line to the limb in a ways, run it through your chosen rigging point and tie the end to the limb. You will have doubled the working load, and have enough line for the actual work when winter comes.
Edit, after seeing the pic, maybe go for this https://www.treestuff.com/samson-arb...-rigging-rope/ Overkill on tensile strength, but a lot cheaper than Stable Braid. I hate the stuff, as it's kinda stiff, and prefer True Blue for natural crotch rigging. You'd be rigging that lead via a tip tie, and cutting it at the base, so all in one piece, it appears. Frankly, the Yale line would be adequate, but the fatter 5/8th will never come close to failing you for anything you might ever try to rig/pull over!
Green oak is closer to 66 lb per cf.....https://woodweb.com/cgi-bin/calculators/calc.pl
You guessed close at 1800' for the limb weight, given bodywhomper's description. Edit, just saw the image.... that's a leader, not a limb, but it tapers a fair bit, so the above calculator result of 1650' should be close, assuming an 11" butt diameter and 8" out 40-50'. The wood will weigh less in early winter than in spring, too boot.
Here's the last vid I've put up of a challenging tree removal, a lightning struck Western redcedar... It's the 5th time I've rigged and worked off a tight line to do a challenging tree removal.
https://youtu.be/NjtVF8yP6Xk
https://youtu.be/cpSSzH15Zfw
And here's one that we did earlier last year
https://youtu.be/i3iy85iHPGU
thanks for the information!! leader/limb.... sorry to mince nomenclature. i know words matter and appreciate the clarification.
I first started climbing in 1975. We had a Homelite Super XL 123 on the crew. It was an improved version of the XL. Our climbing saw was the Super EZ automatic, a 2.5 c.i. saw that was reliable. My next job, we ran Echo 302S, also a back handled reed valve saw, as the Stihl 020's had carb boot to engine block connector issues. Finally switched to the 020 Supers circa 1986... and to the Husqvarna 335 when it came out in ~1996. I had to port the 335/338 mufflers to get them to keep up with Stihl 200T's, and actually be faster, if not as reliable. But overall, I've preferred Husqvarna to Stihl. In this old video, my fully woods modded 3120 gets to do its thing!! There ain't no slowing it down! Even now, 19 years later, though its operator has. That would, ummm, be me..at 72, I'm now operating my cameras damn near every day!! 46 years in the trees was plenty!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Meadow Skipper
https://youtu.be/L2wMdGPEPfc
The only thing that matters, is if I can get to the beer fridge before I keel over.....
j/k, I don't drink often, but when I do, I prefer Dos Equis.....
Well, not really.
I know you experts scoff. But I just used my brothers corded electric homelite at the cottage. I am shocked by how well it worked. My old stihl was on the shelf next to it. But I can’t run it in summer unless there’s a major storm. The Karen’s would report me to the association.
10 year old Husqy rancher used for firewood and occasional fence or other projects became harder and harder to start while hot. Had my boy tune it a few times which would help for a while, but it kept happening. This weekend it did it again mid-tree and I had to wait 40 minutes for it to cool.
Switching over to Stihl for the first time with a 20" MS 291. Hoping for decent reliability.
I bought a $99 Sears Craftsman (remember Sears?) corded electric. And I like it for homeowner yard cleanup.Quote:
Originally Posted by Core Shot
I run Husky 372xp and 390xps for work all summer and we have to be real careful to leave them in the shade when we are notQuote:
Originally Posted by The Reverend Floater
using them to prevent overheating
Never heard of that^^ with pro-saws IME they just run the same all day every day but then the temps are where I'm usually wishing I got the saw with heated grips
do people clean out all the sawdust from the engine to keep the engine cooler ?
I do it every day as part of the maintenance regime, there isnt enough buildup to necessarliy need it every day but it needs cleaning > than never doing it
them electric saws sound great, no fuel issues but then you gota deal with the miles of extension cord out on the cut block eh
i think when it come to sthil or husky its like ford vs chevy they are both ok
Well, a 50' cord gets me pretty much anywhere I need to cut on my property. So there's that.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
actulay a plug in saw makes a lot of sense compared to a battery saw if the lot is small enough
I was kidding about miles of extension cord
100' is my personal limit. If I need more than that I'm doing it wrong. And it only makes sense if one doesn't cut through the cord. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
I just bought an Echo cs-500p to replace the cs-510p that was stolen. I was reminded how great Echo pro saws are. Easy starting, lightweight and powerful. A bargain at $399. Having run Stihl and Husky that my dad used I would say they’re every bit as good.
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Nice saw you got there
I ran Stihls for years when I was a firefighter, now an arborist that uses husky’s due to proximity to a dealer. I clean our air filters every other tank of gas and clean the saw out with a compressor every evening. I’ve noticed my 372xp that has a cracked air filter cover runs better in the heat.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
dealer support is very important so we got husky/ sthil/ Jonsered but no echo, I don't think they have much of a dealer network up here
Yup regular maintenance very day, I have 2 filters so I just swap them, wash the dirty one, clean out chips, clean bar groove, clean clutch area, turn over bar, sharpen all the chains with the jig so I can just swap chains in the field
I have been very pleased with the Milwaukee M18 chainsaw. I have access to 8 batteries as well. I’ve been using it to clear my lot and get rid of deadfall at 11k feet elevation in CO. I have cut down 10-15 inch thick live spruce that are up to 60 ft tall with it. Given the high elevation a ~50 cc gas powered chainsaw would de-rate down to about the same power as the Milwaukee which is supposed to be equivalent to a 40cc. At 11k feet a gas powered saw can be pretty fussy to run as well.
MILWAUKEE'S 2727-20 M18 Fuel 16 in. Chainsaw (Too... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QFFVGLR...ing=UTF8&psc=1
I have a great echo dealer down here that has a good size maintenance department. Lots of landscaping on the Maine coast. Just like Husky and Stihl a range of saws is made. Just picked up a consumer echo 400 used for $75 the guy ported. 3 trail days so far and it cranks The skinny chain does dull faster in all the beech we have.
Friend is looking to pick up a dewalt electric saw for stealth because he has the batteries. Any thoughts on those? Worked an uphill track at a ski area on a bitchin cold day with a friend who had an electric saw. Battery held up a lot better in cold than I expected
I run three Stihl MS260s and an MS261. All are great saws when freshly serviced, but the newer saw seems more sensitive to variable fuel quality, and most annoyingly the electronics require my local dealer to call in codes to Stihl, which (due to Stihl’s lack of resourcing) has extended the servicing turn-around from days to weeks. Not impressed.
The fuel up here should be ok as opposed to stateside ?
I just run premium in my 5 or 6 yr old 261 and it always runs fine
I've used a Milwaukee 18v chainsaw quite a bit and the batteries designed for the drill/impact etc don't last very long. I broke down and spent some money on the 12 Amp Hour 18v battery and it works fine for the saw. I have several smaller batteries for the drill etc that seriously don't last more than a minute or two cutting a 12" log. I'd say you want a 9 AH battery minimum. For some context, I've been working on clearing and thinning some Fir trees and removed approximately 90 various sized trees (4" - 16" stumps) primarily with the Milwaukee. I'll get several on the ground and buck them up with an old Stihl saw because the cordless isn't really up to that task.Quote:
Originally Posted by cat in january
Bronco thanks for the information
Been a lot easier past few yess as sr finding premium at the pump with no ethanol around here.
I have a 12” Dewalt battery saw for trail work. It’s lightweight and cuts reasonably well. If he’s got the batteries it’s a no brainer.Quote:
Originally Posted by cat in january
That said, a good battery saw is nothing like a light weight pro saw. Running back to back days, it’s amazing how fast and smooth the gas pro saw is.
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I don't know much about chainsaws but I've been doing a lot of cutting recently with an electric dewalt and want to upgrade. We have a nice chunk of country land and with how much trail clearing I've been doing recently with all the recent storms, I feel like I deserve an upgrade. This thread is way too HUGE to go through all of.
Is there a general consensus between the nicer consumer/prosumer level models like Husqvarna 460, Stihl MS311, etc...? Max safety features is important to me. Right now there's about a dozen huge trees blocking my favorite trail I want to make quick work out of. Would also like to be able to use it for plunge cuts to dig out some hand holes for a strongman log I'm making out of one of the oaks, and maybe dabble in chainsaw carving when I get bored and make some funny looking statues to put around the property. Can one saw do it all or will I need more than one for all that?
Not to go all safety Sam on you, but just be careful with plunge cuts if you haven't used a saw much.Quote:
Originally Posted by couloirman
As far as Stihl vs Husky I think the common thought is to go with whichever brand has better dealer support in your area.
Fair enough. Yeah, I know they're one of the more dangerous things you can do. I've been practicing them a bit with my little battery powered guy and been fine so far with that, might just use that for the plunges instead of a bigger saw since I'm more familiar with how it feelsQuote:
Originally Posted by zion zig zag
The 311 makes more power than the 460. Neither of them are particularly light, which may or may not matter to you, depending on how far you're going on your trailwork missions. Neither will be great for carving - your little electric thing is probably better for that.Quote:
Originally Posted by couloirman
I feel guilty giving the unsolicited advice, this place is infamous for that!Quote:
Originally Posted by couloirman
As far as the MS311, I'd personally spend a few more bucks for the MS261. You lose 2/10th of an HP but also lose almost 4 pounds. The weight will matter more than the HP if you are cutting for long.
^^^ or spend a few more bucks, get a 362 and get more power and less weight.
How long of a bar do you need? I’m super happy with my ms261 with a 20” bar.
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MS261 or Husky equivalent all day. Great saw.
Bear in mind that a 20” bar can cut a 40” log with a double cut so if your typical cut is 10 inches or less then the weight tends to become the driving factor of how long you can run it safely.
Buddy with the big Husky rancher was pissed my little saw was doing a double cut faster than his single. The thinner chain really makes a difference too.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zion zig zag
Not only weight but how the saw balances with the bar can make it less fatiguing. For a do-it all saw a 50ish cc with an 18" is the sweet spot for me. I've put 16's and 20's on the same saw and it just feels off.Quote:
Originally Posted by neufox47