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What’s the homemade stomp pad?Quote:
Originally Posted by cydwhit
Also Back to the release with toes. I think the trab toes are the best for wider skis and/or variable snow simply because they never actually “release” they simply allow your boot to slip out with enough force. You never hit a point of no return and they pop open, they have a sort of elastic travel that way.
Kamtron, I’d still probably go for it too- especially if there’s a better fix on the pivot pins. I just got some new 105 waist skis , and will likely put my old trofeos on them and carry on. If i was buying bindings though, might go trab or mtn. I bet if the arm pivots are fixed and you clear the toes well after bootpacking etc, you’ll be fine!Quote:
Originally Posted by kamtron
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ok mag community.
I just had to do a slightly sketchy transition with some freeraiders on my feet this afternoon, and really struggled. I've got to be missing something, since this is the hardest tech binding ive been in to transition without pulling skis off your feet.
So what's the trick for releasing the brake, and spinning the turret?
I wish the buttons were asymmetric - much easier to hit the inside one, versus outside right one.
Good post. I’ve been thinking on a better way than getting super low, in order to save my right hip! Maybe crossing right ski over. Or pulling tail up behind you and tip into snow, although tricky since heels aren’t yet locked down.
For me the right ski is the issue given the button on the outside and my right hip impingement.
@Tang 100% agree. Hitting that outside brake release.button is awkward.
Damn, these are responses I did not want to hear.
Does anyone know if ATK has put out any usability videos like Marker has done with the Alpanist and Kingpin, or G3 has done with the Zed and Ion?
So I searched but couldn't get an exact answer. I'll throw this out there for some more opinions. Anyways...
I've got some older Hagan Core 12s (same as the older Raider 2.0s) with the front brakes. They have a standard 4 hold Dynafit pattern with the dual spring toes (springs on each side as opposed to the Monolink toe).
I broke one of the front brakes. I'm not a massive fan of brakes anyways on touring skis, I usually use leashes. And I'd like to shim the toes and reduce the 11mm pin delta a bit.
I could easily remove the brakes and shim the current toes, but there's the superfluous material from the front brakes that's not removable. That would hang over the shim. No a big deal but was thinking maybe snow could pack in there and maybe cause some issues.
I was contemplating swapping the toes out for Trofeo toes. Same mount pattern. Cleaner shim. A little weight savings. The only different is the Monolink toe.
Anyone have any experience with the Monolink toe replacing the dual spring toes? Any big difference in retention?
I usually ski at a RV of 9 which probably matters. They're on 116 mm underfoot pow skis, I would mostly use them in soft snow.
Thoughts?
Thanks in advance.
I'm pretty sure Tgapp as well as some others have used B&D toe shims with the older front brake toes. You could also get Spyderjon to make custom shims that will cover the footprint properly for a very reasonable cost. If you wanted Trofeo toes I doubt you would have issues, because the Black Diamond Helio 350 has a Raider heel with a Trofeo toe and it seems to work fine, and that bindings has an advertised 12 release value. Another option would be to get a Trab toe which also shares the exact same mount pattern, and has a very light ~10 gram proprietary toe shim to reduce ramp.
Thanks that's helpful, some good ideas thereQuote:
Originally Posted by Benneke10
Looking for a set of touring clamps to put on my soon to be HL C132's and got a few questions. How much does a set of raider 12's weigh without a brake? And, can you still run a freeride spacer with the brake removed? Is there a freeride spacer for the Kuluar 12 other than the universal? Place to get trab toes for cheap?
ATK brakes weigh about 50g so R12's without brakes weigh about 300g. You can run the AL09 freeride spacer without a brake no problem, but you may want to get the "Brake Seat Cover" to prevent snow buildup underneath the spacer.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lord Thomas
The only ATK freeride spacers are the AL09 which is only compatible with the Raider series, and the universal spacer. So the only spacer you can use with the Kuluar is the Universal.
Trab toes for cheap.... good luck.
Does anyone know the difference between the toe adjustment plates R16A, R013, and R08A?
I want a toe adjustment plate for two reasons. One, I want to play with the mount point on a ski. Seems ideal for this, and as long as I'm using a Raider mounted to my BSL I should have ~ +/- 15mm so the +/- 13.5mm on the plates should be fine. Two, I want to use it as a shim to reduce stack height.
Questions are:
1. Which one do I get for the Raider Evo? Looks like the R16A. Does it work with a Crest 10? Looks like answer is yes.
2. Does the ATK jig have the mount holes for the plate? No idea?
3. What is the stack height for the plates? Can I use normal BF machines screws? Looks like screws are included and stack heigh is 4mm.
The R013 and R08A only work with the smaller mount skimo toes with a 30x27mm pattern. The R16A works with the larger mount freeride toes and the smaller skimo toes.
Anybody else having issues with the springless raider toes? Mine don't seem to have all that much clamping force in ski mode which has led to a couple prereleases and a weird "click" that happens when I put lateral force on the bindings (mostly in hard snow). I think the noise is the jaws partially opening but not releasing and then snapping back shut, but i'm not 100% on that.
Running a Hawx with about 30 days on em so it's probably not worn inserts. I'm a lightweight and have the lateral release at 10 (alpine binders at 8 w/ no issues), so I don't think too low of a release value is letting the heel pivot excessively. Always keep skis on to rip skins so probably not insert icing. Anybody have any insight as to what might be going on/possible solutions? Would adding a freeride spacer help by giving the boot more support, leading to less force going directly into the toes?
I second that.
I am stoked with how light the FR16s are. My buddy has a couple of pairs of FR12s. He is 185lbs and I am 210lbs. We both don‘t hold back often in the Hills and feel confident in the hold and burliness of these bindings and at only around 350g, worth the extra bit of weight to drive bigger sticks. I have a pair of 16s on 104mm waist and 115mm waist skis.
Figured this would be the right place to ask.
I've finally got the ramp angle and forward lean dialed in and exactly the same on my touring boots and resort boots. So, I figured it might be beneficial to also have similar delta angles for all my bindings.
ATK Raider 12: +11.5mm (according to Skimo.co)
Salomon STH2 13: +6mm
Should I worry about a difference of 5.5 millimeters? I'm not even sure which delta I would prefer over the other. I have poor ankle dorsiflexion - which I have compensated for with heel lifts on my boot boards. But I do constantly feel like I'm getting thrown backseat (could be due to my poor technique).
Also I bought the freeride spacer for the ATKs - bindings aren't even mounted yet. I say this because I'm not sure if installing the freeride spacer and possibly shimming the toes are compatible procedures.
What do you guys think?
The free ride spacer doesn’t change the heel height. I use the 4 mm shim under the toes of my FR’s which gives me the heel/toe drop I like. There’s no right or wrong here, just personal preference.
I run plates under the toes. Spyderjon on here made them for me as well as providing the proper screw lenght. He has a shop in europe somewhere, pricing is good and hes great to deal with. Reach out to him and safe yourself any hassels. The guy will set you up properQuote:
Originally Posted by PeaHead96
That works out perfectly because I live in Europe. I'm still kinda new on this forum, I guess I'll send the guy a message?Quote:
Originally Posted by MTslackcountry
The piste office, in the UK. Great guy.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeaHead96
That being said... I'm sure spyderjon is a great guy who is deserving of my money, but I just discovered that I can buy the shim in Norway. Import taxes are not fun here. I probably sound like a newbie but it's called the 'AL12'. I thought that the shim had to be homemade or something. But I appreciate the help regardless!
Don’t forget the longer screws. First I have heard of that spacer. Will need to look into it
Found the same at VPG in case you saw it more expensive.
https://www.vpg.no/atk-race/346604/a...ctpage-nosto-3
Quote:
Originally Posted by PeaHead96
Got it for almost half as cheap on Braasport actually.
https://braasport.no/produkter/utsty...l12/83532/al12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pins and Skins
Apparently it comes with screws too.Quote:
Originally Posted by cat in january
https://www.atkbindings.com/en/prodo...r12-fr14-fr16/
For me the boot angle in the binding was the most important thing. I could never get on with very flat marker alpinist and zero g boots.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeaHead96
I went to the FR14 which with the zero g gave me about the same forward lean as my alpine setup and it all came together and made switching between the two much easier.
So I’d advise tweaking it as a package.
Binding heel-toe delta (aka ramp angle) and internal heel lifts (aka boot board angle) do different things for your alignment. And yes, you can tell a difference with 5.5 mm of delta.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeaHead96
As someone else with poor dorsiflexion, internal heel lfits help me feel centered in my (upright and stiff) boots, and then I prefer a relatively flat heel-toe delta. A good way to test this, is to stand in your boots with your heels elevated 5mm, 10 mm, etc, and see if notice a big difference.
The big drawback of heel adjustment plates is that they add height to the heel, so you're left deciding whether you care more about heel-toe delta or total stack height. I prefer a flat binding but I also prefer lower stack height so I usually shim until there's less than 10 mm delta, ideally closer to 5mm.
CaliBrit is 100% correct that it's a package deal of forward lean, bootboard angle, and binding delta/ramp. But they all do slightly different things to your alignment so you have to figure out what works best for you in your boot.
And to add to the above, regarding tech bindings. Heel to toe pin height difference, is not the same as alpine binding heel to toe delta.
Why not ski it and see if you feel it needs the spacer under the front? I needed it with my TLT5 boots, for sure, but it was not as big a deal with my F1 LT’s. After time, I decided I’d like to be more upright, so spyderjon hooked me up, and it was a 15 minute install.
I did some playing around with my boots and I actually think that I prefer a higher binding delta. I have long legs, and as I previously said poor dorsiflexion. I've got the new Scarpa 4-Quattro boots, which have a 5.3 degree ramp angle. So basically the stock ramp angle on the Quattros is like adding 4-5 mm heel lifts to other boots that typically feature a 4 degree ramp angle. So I feel pretty confident that my poor dorsiflexion is addressed by that. But, I did some stacking of 5,10,15 mm thick books underneath the heels of my ski boots with them buckled up, and it feels much better around 10-15 mm actually. So idk, we'll see. I'll hold off on the shims for now.
Do ATK brakes run wide like Salomon or true to size like Look?
i.e. Do I want 102 or 108 brakes on a 103 waist (kastle tx 103) ski?
They run large. 102s will easily fit a 103 waist. I even got them to fit a 108 waist without any stretching.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dcpnz
Second this. 102 fit snugly around 108mm waist, but still deploys just fineQuote:
Originally Posted by Pins and Skins
Sent from my Pixel 7 Pro using Tapatalk
And it isn’t even the same from boot to boot. A boot with a really aggressive rocker sole will sit in the binding with the toe higher than a flatter soled boot.Quote:
Originally Posted by waxoff
Attachment 435932I second that. I have the 4mm free tour plate under the toes and it feel right.
A buddy has a pair of FR12‘s he mounted on some ON3P‘s and then added the 4mm shim and he swears he can feel the difference and that he can stand a tick more upright and relaxed skiing them.
FR16‘s come it at 350g spot on. With metal free tour tow shim and freeride plate 427g.
A few more grams for screws
https://www.atkbindings.com/en/prodo...r12-fr14-fr16/Quote:
Originally Posted by twoturn
20g...
Does anyone know if the brakes are removable on the Rent Me 12? Thinking of mounting a pair on some lotus 138s and would rather not have brakes laying there flaccidly for no reason
Curious about brakes too. Will a 108 fit on my BG tours with a 116 waist? Or can can they be removed on the FR16?
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As mentioned above, a few of us got 102 brakes to fit around a 108 waist. 108 fitting over a 116 might be tight (not sure about the sidecut profile of the BGTs but 116 waist may not be 116 where the brakes are). In any case, they can be removed on the FR16 and replaced with a brake cover. FWIW, it seems the brakes for the new EVO line cannot be removed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee Murian