I just cut a hole in my bottom freezer door with the sawzall so the fork would fit and stoked the fire pit. Should be rolling shortly [emoji106]
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I just cut a hole in my bottom freezer door with the sawzall so the fork would fit and stoked the fire pit. Should be rolling shortly [emoji106]
Put some grease on the steerer where the crown will go. Hold the crown race with pliers, and heat it with a heat gun or hair dryer (don't melt the seal). Then pound away with the PVC pipe.
well the concept is about using cold/heat to assist with pressfitting partsQuote:
Originally Posted by jackstraw
this assumes you have a chest freezer to put the fork in
or are smarter than a chest freezer
Okay, I have one.
Neighbor has a Syncros Boost, straight pull hub on his Scott Ransom. He can’t find measurements online anywhere or from Scott. He is looking to build it up with a 32 (I am assuming here) DT 481 27.5 rim. 3 X.
Anyone privy to this information, Or have a good tip on calculating hub flange diameter with straight pull? We just need spoke lengths, obviously.
I think I am gonna keep the Knolly for now.
Revel Ranger 29? Anyone been on one? I know basically nothing about this brand.
No help here, but if it's straight pull I'm virtually certain it will be 28 holeQuote:
Originally Posted by rideit
Good point. I will find out for sure ASAP.
Assuming he's rebuilding an existing wheel with a new rim - can he measure the current spokes and compare the old and new rim ERDs? E.g. if the ERD is increasing by x then the spoke length will increase by x/2 (maybe not exact for 3x, but close enough).Quote:
Originally Posted by rideit
No, because he wants to go from a 29” rim to a 27.5”.
So it’s more ‘complicated’.
pretty sure teledad is right...
(old erd - new erd) / 2 = x
old spoke - x = new spoke
dts spoke calc can do straight pull user defined, so if you have calipers can pop numbers in, theres one extra # to input for straight pull but its still pretty easy and dt has good diagrams of what to measure
but i think you can just do the math based on known #s
You have to reverse engineer the numbers. So you measure the old spoke length and the old ERD.Quote:
Originally Posted by rideit
Use DT Swiss spoke calculator and input a stock DT Straight Pull hub with that old ERD. See what the spoke length calculates as.
Compare the calculated spoke length with the old spoke length. Example: Calc = 285mm, old spoke length = 288mm.
This means that Syncros hub is 3mm longer than DT Straight Pull hub measurements.
Change the ERD in the calculator to 29er rim that you want to build and add 3mm to the actual calculated spoke length. It's a direct translation of Xmm, not a percentage.
Sorry that is pretty wordy, but I hope it makes sense.
Yeah, 27.5 vs 29 shouldn't matter, it's just a bigger ERD difference.
I don’t think I passed this advanced trig course in college...
No grease on headset race. No split races. Don't overthink. All of that shit will cause issues later. They are made to be smashed on. Smash it on. You can always put an old stem on top of it if you want to protect the surface, and smash the stem with a conduit or PVC pipe.
I love the Park Tool headset race setter. It's one of my favorite tools that I own. When else do you get to use a hammer on a bike? And the sound changing from hollow to solid once it sets? So good.
You know you wanna smash it. So smash it.
You went to college?!? Fuck. I lost in the pool. I think I owe some people some money...Quote:
Originally Posted by rideit
Well, it was more of a collage, actually.
What he said.Quote:
Originally Posted by EWG
All other answers are waaaaayy overthinking.
Recommendations on a Schrader attachment for compressor?
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I just use a cheap one from a hardware store. Has worked fine for many years.Quote:
Originally Posted by nickwm21
WRG, I haven't ridden any of these bikes, but I've been toying with a similar set of questions. I have a Transition Patrol (170/160 travel, etc.), but would love another MTB to complement it. I think a 100-120 travel bike is the better complement. SB115, Transition Spur, Revel Ranger, etc. You can still get fun geometry, just with 40mm less travel, which really ain't much, and lose 10 pounds on the bike. The Spur has 120 travel, 66* HTA, and only weighs 25/26 pounds!Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
If you want just one bike, or you are thinking about selling your Knolly before it loses too much resale value, I'd go with the SB130. And get a light air shock (DPX2) for pedal days (50 milers), and swap in a coil shock for park/shuttle/enduro days.
Before you buy the SB130 though, you should do a demo ride and try it out. My buddy loves his, and he is a super strong rider. He was surprised he liked the 130 as much as does.
imho...
ETA: lol, just realized I missed a bunch of replies and earlier comments, which basically said everything I did ha! Oops.
Was contemplating waiting for one to be available, live locally, but couldn't pass up a deal on the Rascal. Saw a couple Rangers in the shop and they were supposed to have some demos ready soon. Looks like a pretty sweet rig. The Rascal has been phenomenal so far and does everything I want it to do. Climbs great and descents are still super fun and playful. My build is sitting right under 30#, would imagine the Ranger to be a bit lighter with a similar build.Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
Why no grease?Quote:
Originally Posted by EWG
Ready to smash!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...8b3f0e7e13.jpg
I've always used grease when installing the crown race. No drawbacks that I'm aware of.
Q for the experts: I have Shimano SLX 7000 brakes, and I currently have a SLX i spec 11-speed shifter. I want to swap the shifter for a non- i spec, so I need to get a shim to take up the space in the brake clamp. Will this XTR brake clamp fit?
https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/pro...p-band-adaptor
Yup. Same part number for 7000 and 9000 seriesQuote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
I think the idea is that press fits are supposed to be tight and not move. Grease is for making things move more easily. You won't see factories adding grease to press fits like crown/steerer junctions or crown/stanchion junctions.Quote:
Originally Posted by jackstraw
That said, I don't think it really matters (although I'm in the no grease camp).
Grease also prevents binding and different types of corrosion.
rubbing alcohol is a good alternative if you don't like grease
But you want a press fit to bind, right? And if corrosion in a press fit is the concern, there are other substances that are better suited to the situation (i.e. loctite).Quote:
Originally Posted by rideit
Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by Roxtar
The press fit crown is built to the tolerances needed. Any grease will be pushed out of the way when pressed into its final position. The grease will aid in getting it close and straight towards the final position.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
I don’t see any negatives on adding some grease.
I'm skeptical, but I'm guessing we'll both keep doing it the way we've been doing it without issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
Agree to disagree.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
The point of a press fit is to make it not slip. The point of grease is to make it slippery.
These are polar opposites.
If the grease gets pushed out of the way and has no effect, why use it?
If it doesn't get pushed out and has an effect, that's a negative.
The tight tolerances and using the right tool are what will keep it straight.
So, FWIW, I have probably pressed on over 1000 races (or a lot more?) since 1988, and it is probably evenly split between greased and ungreased. And in that time, I have never really experienced a problem one way or the other...just a point of reference.
“Pick a method and be a dick about it”, perhaps?:FIREdevil:FIREdevil:FIREdevil
PerhapsQuote:
Originally Posted by rideit
I'm going to grease only one half of the steerer tube and that will be the new norm. [emoji12]Quote:
Originally Posted by rideit
Now that we've extensively debated proper installation of the crown race, what's the expert consensus on removal?
Grease half the steerer tube before dipping the fork in liquid nitrogen while heating the crown race with a plasma torch and whack the whole thing with a PVC stick?
Or something complicated like using a flat blade screwdriver and mallet and gently hitting the underside of the crown so it slides off?? Ideally the fork and crown would come out of this operation unharmed and looking brand new...
Icetoolz crown race remover.
Screwdriver and a mallet works fine if you don't ham fist it too badly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
Yes. This. Only use a hammer.Quote:
Originally Posted by HAB
On greasing crown races: probably doesn’t matter either way, but the two pieces of metal are essentially the same size, so the only way they fit together is for one or both to deform. No grease necessary for that at all. I guess my grease superstition is that something will set in its deformed size and grease will allow it to move.
Extremely unlikely, granted. But why grease? Totally unnecessary. No one has ever not been able to install a crown race, tried again with grease, and then had it work.
I’d use grease... certainly not going to make your race magically come up. I also use an old headset bearing, and hammer it bit by bit down rotating around the steerer tube (long piece of wood on the bearing, hit the end of the piece of wood with hammer, rotate wood, repeat).
To remove, start by wedging in a razor blade between fork and race. Tap it in with a hammer. Rotate and repeat. Gives enough space to get a flat head in there to pry it up (again, only a little bit at a time, rotating around).
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