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Performance used to be great for buying cheap versions of useful tools I didn’t want to heavily invest in. I’ve got a saw guide and a star nut setting tool that I think were like $8 bucks each. Maybe there’s an Amazon equivalent?
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That’s not a bad idea, but I would use old stems that you don’t care about marring up. I have done the same using old grip lock-on collars to cut bars, and the hacksaw definitely did a bit of damage to the collars.Quote:
Originally Posted by radam
Does a pipe cutter work on carbon? I have always used a pipe cutter on alloy and a hacksaw on carbon.Quote:
Originally Posted by teledad
noQuote:
Originally Posted by D(C)
Definitely get a hacksaw blade made for cutting carbon.
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Mine were from Nashbar - probably the exact same tools.Quote:
Originally Posted by jm2e
Could the clutch in my 12 speed XT derailleur really be sticking after only 350 miles? I'm guessing this may be more than pull off the clutch cover and blast is with degreaser?
Good timing considering I have an all day ride tomorrow.
I've had the same issue with mine lately, but with way more miles. I re-greased the clutch roller and had the shop check it out, but it was still sticking and creaking like a MF'er (but still functioned fine). I'm sending mine back for a warranty replacement.Quote:
Originally Posted by HankScorpio
https://crankjoy.com/review-update-s...arising-issue/
Thanks man, that link was incredibly helpful. Greasing the clutch looks pretty straight forward so that'll be my short term solution. Good to know I can call Shimano and get a replacement if it gets worse.Quote:
Originally Posted by smmokan
alright, thanks everyone. I may as well give it a go, can't be much harder than mounting my own skis and I managed to get that done with a handheld cordless drill.
dumb Q, but do I need to buy a star nut separately? it doesn't seem like one came w/the fork, and judging from that video I'm not sure I'll be removing one from my old fork.Quote:
Originally Posted by D(C)
for cutting, tape + hacksaw + metal file seems fine to me, I have a reasonably steady hand and a workbench with clamps I can use. most of the process seems to be "unscrew and rescrew some screws" which I think I oughta be able to manage...
New star nut, $2.00 at any bike shop.Quote:
Originally Posted by mall walker
alright, looks like amazon has a nice idiot-proof (mall walker proof) star nut installer for < $20 so that's that. thanks!
Star nut setter is definitely money well-spent.Quote:
Originally Posted by mall walker
Agreed but it can be done without one if you are careful. I’ve probably done 30 of them without a setter.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dantheman
But definitely worth buying one - see earlier post on tools.
Somehow I’ve never dropped the $30 on the race removal tool though...
https://www.amazon.com/Bike-Bicycle-.../dp/B009MQVS40
^ with a new crown race costing $12 I think I'll take my chances with the butter knife / screwdriver approach...
The razor blade/butter knife/screwdriver approach is for removing a crown race without messing up your fork, not so much about keeping the crown race in tact. If you're okay with getting a new crown race, just leave the old one on the old fork.Quote:
Originally Posted by mall walker
For installing a crown race, a 1' long piece of 1 1/2" PVC pipe is your best bet. But you can tap it on with a flathead screwdriver with a bit more difficulty and more risk of gouging up your new steerer tube.
Lowes/HD usually sell pre-cut 2-foot lengths of 1.5" ABS that works perfect. They're like $2, no-brainer.Quote:
Originally Posted by D(C)
Oh it can be done, and worst-case you just have to buy a new star nut, but once you use the tool there's no going back.Quote:
Originally Posted by EWG
Speaking of cutting things, what's everyone choice tool for cutting cable housing? When I replaced my drivetrain last month I used an angle grinder since my experience with dedicated tools is that they still flatten the shit out of the housing and you have to reshape the ends. The grinder did a great job with 1 minor issue: the inner liner (the clear plastic which I assume is coated in PTFE) shrunk a bit from the heat and threatened to close up. I re-opened it with a safety pin and had a bit of resistance when pushing the cable through but once it made it past the constriction everything felt smooth. I think it would be a different game with brake lines though so I might buy a dedicated tool...
I bought cheap cable cutters years ago and they were terrible. I wised up and eventually got these Park Tool ones. They’re great, sharp clean cut every time, they even cut hydro brake lines. Don’t skimp on cable cutters.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
https://www.parktool.com/product/pro...g-cutter-cn-10
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NEVER, NEVER use a pipe cutter for carbon! It crushes and frays the carbon. As said, always use a carbon blade.Quote:
Originally Posted by D(C)
The Park cable cutter does kick ass for just about everything. It does leave a little bit to be desired with Hayes kevlar hoses, but a sharp razor knife and a steady hand gets the job done.
A carbon saw blade is worth the money since even the Park one only costs $9, but a 32 TPI blade and patience can definitely work just fine.
I know most of us are only cutting a carbon bar maybe once a year, but the carbon dust produced from cutting is bad for your lungs. I try to wear a mask when cutting carbon, and do it outside, or with the shop vac running to collect the dust.Quote:
Originally Posted by rideit
My park took cutters were awesome until recently - I think I used them to cut some thicker gauge cable for something non-bike related and now they don’t cut hoses clean. They still cut cables perfectly though...Quote:
Originally Posted by HankScorpio
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What he saidQuote:
Originally Posted by Dantheman
Both lines.
My cane creek db coil has 2 thin white plastic/delrin? bushings underneath the bump stop that are countersunk into the spring retainer. The manual that came with the shock is for older cc shocks and it doesnt list or show those 2 thin bushings in the parts diagram. My old cc db coil didnt have them. Anyone know what theyre for? I know dvo changes the stroke length in their jade x coil by just swapping the coil retainer to augment the stroke to allow it to be longer or shorter. The shock should have 65mm stroke for my bike so im hoping those bushings arent making it 60mm stroke. They're thin. Without pulling it apart i think that both of them together are less than 5mm thick. Maybe there's 2 to have 2 slippery surfaces to keep things smooth when the shock bottoms out?possibly a new little tweak feature cc are doing on the new db coil shocks?Anyone familiar with those bushing?
Also i ordered it with a 450lb spring. Writing on the coil indicates 450 x 2.50. The spring was much too firm(calculator put me at 368lb). I found another cc coil spring in my parts box and its listed as 350 x 2.50 and that gives me proper sag. Happy. Its weird though, both the 450 and 350 coils are 2.50 stroke so i thought the springs would be the same length and just have a different wind to make it lighter/heavier. The 350lb spring is almost an inch shorter in length than the 450. Does that make sense?
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