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Uggh now my car needs rear hub bearings. I've been told that since they're bolt on it's actually a pretty straight forward job but I've never done one. I'm probably going to hold out for a little bit though as it has to go in for the newest Subaru recall soon so while the motor is out I'll ask them to change the plugs and serpentine belt since those are a huge hassle otherwise. What's the worst that could happen if one of those bearings gives up the ghost before I change them?
They can go for quite some time and you just need to put up with the noise...before the wheel stops turning, eventually.Quote:
Originally Posted by gravitylover
Changing bearings is fairly straight forward, but messy, and requires some knuckle busting wrench turning. Had a bearing go out on a front wheel once. Noisy as a mother fucker.Quote:
Originally Posted by Timberridge
You can generally get the whole assembly--which saves a bunch of time and the need to press out the bearing. Like all car fixing, you either save time or $ depending on your inclination.Quote:
Originally Posted by Slopetime
Done them on an 07 Outback and a 14 Forester, same design. They are held on the knuckle by 4 bolts. Bolts ain't the half of it though. The hub is recessed ito the knuckle, maybe about 3/8 of an inch and it won't come out without some seriously applied brute force. Choose your weapon be it a wheel puller, slide hammer or a plain old big fucking hammer and chisel and get after it. Your results will vary on how much rust you have collected over the years.Quote:
Originally Posted by gravitylover
Now what's this recall you speak of?
Got a little interest in the MB...Attachment 254282
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There is nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes.
2013 BRZ/FRS, Crosstrek, Impreza motors apparently have valve springs that can break. They're recalling 400k (~175k in the US) cars to rebuild the top half of the motor.Quote:
Originally Posted by Obstruction
Ahh, not the Forester but I'll keep my eye on it.Quote:
Originally Posted by gravitylover
Depending on mileage you might want to do the timing belt and water pump.
The bearing noise will let you know when it's time. It'll go from barely noticeable to a real racket before too long. But if you need one there's no upside to holding off for too long.
Not a belt it's a chain, FA and FB motors don't use timing belts. I don't think they have to pull the cover off to do the valve spring change so that would be a significant labor $$ deal and it's been pretty quiet so I think I can safely assume the tensioners are good.Quote:
Originally Posted by Obstruction
The bearings are making a rumble now that shows up around 40mph and gets louder up to ~60 and then stays at that level. It's considerably more noticeable on new pavement than otherwise.
'Quote:
Originally Posted by gravitylover
I'd change now before you end up on the side of the road. When they go they go for good and it's always at the worst time.
^^^
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4matic
Face palm! Forgot that. Timing chain was One of the reasons I bought the '14 Forester.Quote:
Originally Posted by gravitylover
I did the most recent bearing swap because I could hear it pretty much from start up. Not super loud but it made me crazy.
ding dingQuote:
Originally Posted by 4matic
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aldo
FKN USA Ford ain't too cheap either...
MOOG/PRECISION 271 Universal Joint $37.79 $ 0.00 2 $ 75.58
MEVOTECH TXK80026 Ball Joint $ 27.89 $ 0.00 2 $ 55.78
MEVOTECH TXK8607T Ball Joint $ 36.89 $ 0.00 2 $ 73.78
MOOG DS1071 Tie Rod End $ 81.79 $ 0.00 1 $ 81.79
MOOG DS1068 Tie Rod End $ 68.79 $ 0.00 1 $ 68.79
MOOG ES3009R Tie Rod End $ 30.79 $ 0.00 2 $ 61.58
MOTORCRAFT BRS87 Wheel Seal $ 5.80 $ 0.00 2 $ 11.60
RAYBESTOS RC10522SV Caliper $ 61.79 $ 56.25 1 $ 118.04
RAYBESTOS RC10521SV Caliper $ 61.79 $ 56.25 1 $ 118.04
TIMKEN SET38 Wheel Bearing $ 9.42 $ 0.00 2 $ 18.84
TIMKEN SBK5 Wheel Bearing $ 21.79 $ 0.00 2 $ 43.58
TIMKEN 387A Wheel Bearing $ 11.14 $ 0.00 2 $ 22.28
TIMKEN 382A Wheel Bearing $ 5.86 $ 0.00 2 $ 11.72
TIMKEN 710304 Knuckle Seal $ 7.15 $ 0.00 2 $ 14.30
SHIPPING Priority Mail, DHL Domestic Express $ 218.95
My mechanic (installing new engine at the moment) recently strongly discourages his customers from moog. Said that he has opened up a few new moog components to find something that he would call grease (or other lubricate). This is recent development with moog in his experience.
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@tuco /yeti I've read here on tgr probably from one of you two that there is a nut/bolt to tighten on the ZF 5spd trans in the 4.9 that eliminates a slight scratch going into third gear. Ring a bell? I'm on ford forums now and not finding it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bodywhomper
I've heard things too, since FM took over Moog, but I didn't go into anything in this order lightly and I'm a decisive sort of fellow. Those Moog u-joints are made by Spicer in the USA, then Moog coats them with their prop. anti-corrosion voodoo and sells them for exactly the same price, usually.
More and more, ungreaseable u-joints are the way to go. They can make the boots tighter if they're not designed to pass old grease out. These are ultimately stronger than the greaseable variety too, because they don't have grease passages drilled completely through them. Key is to keep the install clean and the grease free of any debris.
TRW may have been Ford's OEM for tie rods & ends? The two like tie rod ends are actually "ends", the other two parts are the entire steering and radius arms with the ends factory'd in. Greaseable, so they'll come dry with the boots and castle nuts and zerks in little bags. I'll know real quick if they aren't just right.
Timken sources from China now, but every bearing and cup you see on that list is Made in USA. Original OEM.
Those Mevotech Supreme ball joints are prob Made in China. But they're still the Only way to fly. Napa's Top Of Line. "Heavy Duty, Improved over OEM Design" Greaseable. Recco'd (as Napa part) by my local Ford-driving mech.
Grease:
https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/3ff...a827f2316.jpeg
A touch of moly (1%), and some ZDDP in a PAO base and complex lithium soap thickener.
I laughed, but those Raybestos "Police Grade" calipers and pads are supposedly no joke... Top-notch everything- coating, silicone boots, hardware, come with "Stealth" pads with cop badges on them, heh - RockAuto same price as other coated options W/O pads or brackets, but has a cheeky fucking 92% core charge. That's RA but I can't quit RA. I love too much...
https://img.discogs.com/6SRXciXjeN2n...14216.jpeg.jpg
New hubs with coated rotors and studs local. Buying pre-pressed combo hub/rotor saves big PITA of pressing captive rotors and swapping studs. And local is better and cheaper than Fedex-ing another 80lbs of parts up from RA or someone else.
II think I'll have the ball joints and hub bearing races pressed in by others. Imma do them U-joints myself, in a Army radiological tent with positive HEPA filtration and a team of crack assistants...so no snot or chunks of slate and quartz and shadetree yoke debris ends up in those needle bearings...
Still debating on setting adjustable Caster/Camber bushings while I got shit all tore apart... I've heard a little positive caster tames the olskool pickup truck wander, but I've got 0 experience with aftermarket adjustable control arm bushings in a D60. Common sense says Should just leave alone.
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Still wondering what happened with the CJ Renegade.
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Thinking about doing something to this old farm truck. Body is beat but everything else is solid.
73 f100 4 speed with a 360.
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Originally Posted by steepconcrete
If you want to spend a couple years married to that bitch, go ahead.
Better to snatch that pig 360 FE from the day of $0.25/gal 97octane and drop in a 390 for +1 mpg y mucho mas torko. Just tell everyone it's the original 360 if you have to.
Of course, you could go custom...Prolly can do a lot with $25k
Crown Vic swap! 😜
I was thinking more along the lines of fixing the heater
I already power washed it. That may be all I do!