After years of using paper jigs. Got one of these from MottN. Awesome! Dead center of adjustment with pivots.
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After years of using paper jigs. Got one of these from MottN. Awesome! Dead center of adjustment with pivots.
The parameterized template file appears to only have 1 file. I can't figure out how to find the STH2 toe, Warden 13 toe, and the STH2/Warden 13 heel in that 1 file. Am I missing something? I want to make the drill holes 10.1mm for these 3 jigs.
The template data is near the beginning of the file and you just have to un-comment whichever you want, one at a time.
The comment characters are the "//" at the beginning, so put that back in front of whatever the active template is, and delete in front of the one you are interested in. F5 to refresh the view window, then F6 to render, and F7 to export as STL.
If you can't figure it out send me a message and I can export whichever you want and send them to you.
There might be better ways to store parameters for a bunch of different templates in SCAD, but this works for what I want as I can batch export with python to re-output everything if I change the dimensions or or decide I want different hole sizes.
Thanks! I give it a shot.
Has anyone tried to build the jig in Europe (Switzerland or Italy)? It's almost impossible to find all the components here, or maybe I just don't know where to look.
Anything in particular you are having trouble with?
The 2020 profiles and most of the fasteners should be available.
The rubber is not really necessary if you don't mind clamping the jig or templates in place. I believe someone commented that that some skinnier road bike inner tubes will work for the grips too.
If you have a printer and don't mind re-printing templates when they wear out, you don't need the brass sleeves.
If you want some sort of drill bushing, something at 9mm OD x 0.5mm wall should work depending on the tolerances.
I would think you should be able to find some stainless hydraulic tubing in that size, just make sure its seamless. (I'm pretty sure this is what ATK uses in their jigs)
This aluminum tube works and I might switch to it for the ones I make, but K&S is still a US company and may not be easily available in Europe: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...e?ie=UTF8&th=1
I want to let everyone know that MottN is truly an asset to this community! Generous, responsive and a true tech guru!
Rock on MottN!!!
You should be able to find fasteners that will work at a hardware store, but might be more of a specialty one that has lots of fasteners.
2020 bars and t-slot nuts would likely have to be ordered.
Drill inserts if you want them might take the most hunting for....might be available at the right specialty hardware store
If there was a European Mcmaster-Carr I'm sure you could order everything there, but I haven't heard that such a place exists.
So I'm thinking of upgrading my ender 3 to a bambu of some sort, would anyone be interested in a pretty cheap ender 3 with some bells and whistles? Upgraded heat break + grow enclosure for printing higher temp materials and BLtouch included. Print your own mottn templates! PM me if interested.
Also for anyone with some bambu printer experience, is the x1c really worth the extra $$$ over the p1s?
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Probably not unless you are wanting to print a lot of nylon or ASA/ABS. I have an X1C but I got before they offered the p1p and p1s.
Also the A1 is a really good printer and I like it better in some ways than the x1....I think they are set to start selling them again towards the end of April.
Either way I would highly recommend getting an AMS even if you don't think you will do much multicolor printing - Its a huge quality of life improvement.
100% agree with getting the AMS
If you are only ever going to print with 1 filament type and 1 color then the AMS is not necessary. Lets say you plan to do one print with black, then the next print with green, then the next print with red all you will have to do is clear the print bed. No messing around with loading and unloading filament. It all depends on how often you print and how many different colors/types of filament you plan to use. For me the AMS is really nice but it might not be for your use case. You can always add and AMS later as well.
Mounted Oazo 8s a couple of weeks ago using this jig. Everything was spot on with the jig MottN printed for me.
Attachment 492663
I mounted the exact same set up!
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Just finished mounting MTNs. Heel template is missing hole for brake but got a template from wild snow to add the extra hole.
Also just saw this concept and it looks interesting: https://fugeskis.com/evolve-se/.
I like the idea of it being universal and I think it could easily be adapted to what motto has already put together.
MottN, do you have any G3 ION plates that you can sell to me?
Can you send me the template that has the brake hole? I will add to mine.
I believe I used Knut's MTN template, and then found some verification the pattern seemed correct. I don't personally have any MTN bindings.
Yeah the Fuge jig looks very nice, but I'm not sure what exactly the market is. 500 seems more expensive than most people would spend and it seems far to manual and slow for any shop to use.
You have to adjust each hole separately and they aren't self centering, only the jig as a whole is. That sound tedious to me to the point where you aren't really too much ahead of a paper template and a drill guide if you can set a quick centerline with the jig (which I don't think you can with that one).
Here's the wildsnow template for the MTN: https://wildsnow.com/backcountry-ski...ckland-mtn.pdf
I think most people are probably mounting brakeless though.
Re Fuge: $500 is def ridiculoous, all the more reason to try DIY it. I agree though that it is probably too slow for shops but I think it will work for the individual. I like how you just use whatever binding your mounting to set up the jig. This way you dont have to spend any time looking up dimensions or printing a new template, you just align the holes and drill. I currently have 5 sets of plates that Ive printed for Mottns jig but I think this design has potential.
Yeah a sort of universal template does sound nice for some situations. I'm sure its possible to make one that fits my jig. I might play around with the idea a bit.
I also still want to make a printable template library that is compatible with Jigarex, but I haven't been able to find one locally to borrow yet.
I did recently (in the last week or so) update the jig files, and writeup/description. I have a few more things to do on my short term todo list, and have been meaning to post a mini update and update the photos and stuff in the initial post.
Things in general are a bit beefier and the bars sit lower down so the templates are more securely held.
Edit: not sure why it won't let me attach photos.
https://i.imgur.com/vck18rG.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/8Jlayig.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/WFXHKGT.jpg
Thanks for getting that G3 jig to me so quickly. Not exactly sure what to do with the separate small plastic bag with parts...but I'll figure it out. I think that they have something to do with the new end grips.?.
That was toe pin springs for the g3 and some spares and the heel stop.
It should look sort of like this:https://i.imgur.com/WFXHKGT.jpg
I finally got myself this jig printed and I must say I am very impressed with the design. Thank you.
On my first test mount I thought the jig was a bit off from the center line, but it turned out my ski center finding skills stuck. I thought a nice improvement would be to add lines to the plates to visually verify the jig is centered.
I meant lines like the paper template to find the ski center. The notches still require a line to be drawn.
hmmm...are you talking about the lateral ruler markings like on the binding freedom templates?
As is, If I want to double check CL I put down a piece of masking tape and mark each notch. Then measure from each side of the ski for the end marks to verify its centered, and then double check with a straightedge that all marks are in-line.
Yes those rulers from binding freedom. It's just a suggestion that I thought would make a nice addition.
Just bumping this because I'm printing some templates in anticipation of mounting some fucking skis...
MottN posted a few updates. I'm a big fan of the new friction fit toe and heel stops.
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MottN jig is life changing. I don’t have access to a 3D printer so I ordered a jig and various plates from the man himself. Mounted 4 pairs of skis thus far, and each have been a dream.
Thanks fleaches! Yeah I'm not sure why I hadn't done that before...Having the stops easily removable makes it nicer to store if you have a bunch of plates and easier to clamp in place while drilling if desired.
Glad its working for you!
To anyone else interested in this, 3d printers are wonderful tools and you can do a lot with them provided you have the time/space/money. If you're remotely interested in 3D printing I'd encourage you to look into it - there are lots of good options for affordable machines.
...And if you're not interested, I'm still happy to make these for people :)
Bump. Mounted my first pair or skis on this. Such a game changer. Can buy swiss cheese skis on the cheap now.
Thanks so much for the assistance MottN. Great product.
Got myself a bambu P1S w/ AMS this winter and re-printed the updated jig + some more templates. The lower + beefed up end clamps are super nice. Thinking a cool project would be a more secure mechanism for keeping the templates in place along the rails. May start with a few extra sliding bits, but thinking about how the sliders could lock the template in/keep it from falling out the bottom. Thanks again MottN, can't say enough how huge of a time saver this has been for me!
More kudos for MottN - love the setup, it works perfectly, thank you so much for putting this together. Such an awesome resource. deeply grateful.
man I wish images still worked around here.
nice work MottN. Im sending you a question or two.
Originally I designed it with the templates unconstrained vertically so that they can directly contact the ski and accomidate for rocker/camber rather than floating above the surface. I supposed there are ways to let them still float vertically without falling out easily.
Sure, happy to help!