Fack lol, last place you want to loose stopping power.
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Fack lol, last place you want to loose stopping power.
I just did the same thing this week! But fortunately the pads fell out while on a carriage trail riding with my kids at 3mph.
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I'd much rather lose brakes on a jump line than most other places... But scary as shit none-the-less!Quote:
Originally Posted by Thaleia
I thought I was the only person dumb enough to do that! I lost mine in the middle of a remote desert ride last summer.
I figured there was no way I was going to find the pads and spring in the middle of the moon dust surrounding me. I found one pad, then my riding partner proceeded to find the other pad AND the spring! Many beers were owed.
One of these is not like the others, OCD trigger alert
When eyeballing your plank placement goes wrong, gotta improvise.
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Friend had a small leak and we couldn't find it. It was about 300 degrees and humid af, so after pumping it up a couple times during the ride I grabbed my Co2 and blasted the thing. Finally a tiny invisible hole at the bead was heard. A bacon strip was unsuccessful so after f'ing around with sweat raining off us, mosquitoes attacking, and daylight fading we decided to toob it and gtfo.
Well, apparently, when you Co2 cold air in on a hot humid day it creates a vacuum when you break the tire seal. Then add the stans for some added adhesion between the sidewalls and what a shitshow getting this tire off! Idiots rule!
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^^^ sounds quite painful!!
Consequences of aggressive drifting, is this tire shot? :D
Attachment 422981
Is that the only missing knob? If so... I'd say keep runnin' 'er! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
Yep, only pulled the one. The tire is a dream for loose corners, not so much anytime I need traction...
I'll probably fill the hole with some flexible epoxy or aquaseal hoping to protect the carcass a bit and put another few 100 miles on it!
I have a bad history of breaking bike parts when riding with this one buddy of mine. He still reminds me about the time my rear pads flew out of my bike and hit him while i was towing him through the Gravy Train jumps at Duthie. It happens.Quote:
Originally Posted by Huskydoc
I mentioned this idea elsewhere but is was either ignored (understandably) or got lost in the mix.
If you're running tubeless as a means of preventing flats, and dreading the day where you have to potentially fix a leaking tire full of nasty sealant, trailside, miles away from anything - why not just run inner tubes, filled with sealant?
Because when you pinch-flat the tube, it ain't gonna seal. So now you got even more shit to deal with.Quote:
Originally Posted by Thaleia
And pinch-flats are *far* more likely with a tube.
At least that's my story...
I have done that. Rog recommended it to me years ago. It's heavier but works well. But that was when I didn't have a good wheelset for toobless. I would never go back to that again as I rarely flat and can run lower pressure. Toobs flat all the time. My last toob with Stan's did have 3 maybe 4 sealed holes via the stans when it finally completely failed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Thaleia
In the end if you have to toob up like my friend did, it's not that big of a deal. Just don't Co2 it on a hot day prior [emoji3]
Mix and matching spare mtb parts with DJ parts w/o more research got me.
Ordered a freewheel and 4 notch tool to match. Arrive and realize my silly hub is a 6 notch singlespeed cassette, so now have unncessary tool, freewheel and still no way to remove the existing cassette. Learned more about off normal cassette v freewheels via our buddy Calvin @ Park Tool on YouTube which I clearly should have done before making assumptions.
Ugh off we go to buy a tool I'll need once a decade at most, though might just swing by a shop and swap out for a SS ring and normal lock-ring I already have tools for.
Because while it seems like it should work, it just doesn't - at least with Stan's juice.Quote:
Originally Posted by Thaleia
When my daughter first did a mtb team (age 10 or 11 - can't remember), she was on an otherwirse-pretty-legit Trek mtb, that had schraeder tubes. They did a lot of drills on grassy fields, and I got sick of all the goathead punctures. So, since all schraeders have removable cores, I shot a bunch of Stan's in there. Did nothing - had goathead punctures almost immediately and just as frequently. Once she got a tubeless setup (same Stan's sealant), zero issues. Not sure why that is.
OTOH, when she was really young, I had the burly trailer, then the trail-a-bike. For whatever reason, those both got flats all the time. So I got Slime tubes for those, and they definitely do seem to work. Different product, different purpose. So I guess if you want to run tubes with sealant, do Slime, not a tubeless-intended sealant.
Weird. My kid rode through a shit ton of goatheads on his BMX once so I did the exact same thing and it worked great. Also did it to my commuter tires and it worked on those too (with non-removable core presta valves no less!).Quote:
Originally Posted by skizix
For MTB though the answer is that other than goathead resistance tubes with sealant has all of the downsides of tubes with none of the upsides of tubeless. You'll have more rotating weight and tube/tire hysteresis friction, you will get pinch flats much more easily than tubeless, and when you get a puncture/pinch your only option is to remove the tire and replace the tube. With tubeless all but the worst punctures can be plugged, especially if you carry high-quality plugs like Dynaplug or Stans Darts. Since you're not removing the wheel and wrestling beads on/off rims most punctures are a minor inconvenience instead of a huge PITA.
I have tried running like this a few times and the casing starts to bulge out past the rubber. I vote it's shot, but I don't want a somewhat "unfixable" flat 10 miles from nowhere. Your mileage may vary.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
Quote:
Originally Posted by EWG
This is the idiot advice thread, not the expert advice thread.
so much winning in the idiots thread running a fucked up tire instead of changing it out lol !
as I remember those slime tubes came from the factory in some bikes I was putting togetehr at the shop and they weighed a ton, I thot the idea is to lose the weight of the tube ?
Stans in a tube may or may not seal, I wouldn't
I definatly wouldn't do any thing Rog did cuz almost all his ideas were sketchy as fuck
See #3 in the OP: https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...ance-guidebookQuote:
Originally Posted by EWG
A bit more complex here since there's no tube to hold the bill in place, but a piece of old tube and some rubber cement and you're golden.
On the moab trip shop bro said " make sure your bike is 100 %, we will have the stand, tools and spares but I don't expect to see worn or plugged tires, no sketchy anything period "
Everyone's looking at the missing knob. I'm more focused on how haggard all the remaining knobs are. That thing's done.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
That tire is totally effed
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One last point on the sealant in tube… I haven’t seen it said so I think it’s obvious to some but.. that tube doesn’t creat a seal any the valve stem like your toobless valve stem… so yeah, it’s not any more layers of protection or whatever.
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agreed that ^^ tire is pretty much 100% fuckered, I ordered a new rear minion at 60 % wear so basicaly when the knobs start chunking off its time to order another tire
My used tire could still have some worth as a back-up cuz especialy in the current parts availability situ cuz the tire I want might not be available
or heaven forbid I pay list
Moot point, since the bead is not sealed at all (and actually the valve is sealed, being part of the tube). If the puncture in the tube itself does not seal (which it seems not to - too flexible/expansion-prone) I guess…you’re fooked it would seem.Quote:
Originally Posted by grskier
Nah... still get 1000 miles out that as a rear tire.Quote:
Originally Posted by grskier
:fmicon:
Run the tire, what's the worst that could happen?
https://twitter.com/APalmeroy/status...57585452290048
well played.Quote:
Originally Posted by jackstraw
FIFY.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
Now this is my kind of feedback.Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
Tire is fine for the rear, as long as the front is in good shape it doesn't matter what happens with the other half of the bike. It's summer in the Wasatch, you won't find traction if you put your face in the dirt and drag your teeth around...
thread title delivers!
Anyone ever try to buy Stumpjumper alloy frame form specialized? (Not evo)
Figure if the Status 140 Frameset is selling for $1049 and the Stumpjumper EVO Alloy Frameset is $1499, Stumpjumper alloy should fall around $900-$1100 new with shock?
Thinking the Status 140 is not the best choice for more pedal/trail, learning intermediate/beginners.
Trying to find a new 1K frame to finish up some family obligations. 120-140mm. limiting factor Is 140mm fox 34 donor fork and 29” wheels. Believe you can stuff a 29er in the ass of the Status but then again..
Anyways, 1K on a frame should get me in a nice build for around $1500 max. Figure why spend 2k for the entry Stumpjumper or the like when I can swing a better build for less.
Idiots often think there part bin is nicer then it is and neglect to evaluate how much this and that might add up to in the real word. Time is also money or just time…. haven’t started doing what need to be done on personal bike.
I don't believe specialized offers the stumpy alloy as a frame only, so I bet you're easiest avenue will be to buy the entry level bike for $2k, swap parts onto it, and then sell the takeoffs. You won't get a ton of money for takeoffs, but I bet the cost will be more or less a wash compared to building from the frame up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Meconium
Building frames up on the cheap never works out like it should. All it takes is a BB, headset, and/or seatpost to be a different size and your budget very quickly starts to look less favorable. Not to mention building a bike up is when you inevitably remember that you kinda need new tires, the grips are worn out, and the brake pads are almost to the backing material.
Figure Magura MT4 Disc Brake $100-140 for the set. Shimano BB $25, flats $30, grips $10, dropper $120.
If headset not included $40ish (Wild card saddle, bars)
That’s under $400 excluding the wild cards. I’d probably wing it if they sold the frame for a G.
11-speed XT/XTR is an upgrade in my book, can’t think of any downgrade from bottom of barrel Stumpjumper. I suck at selling stuff so reusing parts and saving $500 sounds appealing,
Guess when I finish a kids build I'm in the midle of, I should pencil that out and post it to figure out if it was idiotic, probably was. Most of the part bin stuff wasn’t that kid appropriate so the “budget” trickles down to the wife build. Reminds me, I need to build up an old steel M950 retro bike and pump the dry rot tires to 35psi, hike the bitch up to the top of Mt Wire and see how that goes on the way down for old time sake.
Wonder what other companies might start pawning frames off?
Trek Fest was a joke, Specialized must have over ordered, seams like good value from a big box company. Canyon already flushed out with a sale,
Think YT did the same. I’m guessing Giant/Liv are overloaded by the looks in the eyes of the sails folk trying to get rid of overwhelming floor stock. Jenson will probably get a flood of frames at some point or resurrect the "Jenson build" . TPC probably has too many overpaid for used bikes to deal with to take on last year’s new old stock?
SO, does an Idiot wait for better sails or buy now while unknown inventory is available. Is the industry waiting for the late March/April rush to see what they can sell at token discount pre COVID pricing before the bottom drops out in the summer? My money is that all the Euro shops buy out OEM parts for nothing and the US is blocked from buying them online.
What is the general consensus on patching tubes? Kids bike, half decent build but tubeless is not an option, and he gets multiple punctures per year.He relys heavily on this for transportation so have always erred on new tubes. Getting new tires as well.
A good patch will last a long time. I much prefer traditional glued patches over glueless.Quote:
Originally Posted by Thaleia
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Thank you!It looks like the Park Tool option is less than 3 bucks and wow, does that ever warm my cheap ass heart.
Get tubes with removable cores, and put a few ounces of sealant in them. If they are just punctures this should solve the problem the same way tubeless with sealant would.