I’ve got a LG Revel Rascal at the shop that’s been ridden a few times but is basically new. It’s got a 140 Pike.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandbox
PM for details/pricing.
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I’ve got a LG Revel Rascal at the shop that’s been ridden a few times but is basically new. It’s got a 140 Pike.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandbox
PM for details/pricing.
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
I'll just jump in here. What quasi-budget trail bike? I haven't been biking much the last couple of years but I wanna change that. I mean I do have trails 5 minutes from by house. I would like to keep in under $4K. New or used. I'd definitely, would entertain one of you guysz kick outs. I'm 6'0 175lbs.
I know some people here like to dog pile on specialized, so the only reason I’ll throw this out is my GF is in the same boat and I think she’s finally settled on the Stumpy Alloy Comp unless she finds something nicer that’s used for around the same price. We found that bike around here for $3500 and honestly I think it’d be more than enough for most people starting out or rekindling the flame.Quote:
Originally Posted by Foggy_Goggles
X2 on this. Specialized has some great deals in that price range.Quote:
Originally Posted by east or bust
Where are you located? I’ll have a large Transition Smuggler Carbon for sale soon (should be built up by next week). Very low miles, excellent condition, with a lot of new parts. You’re welcome to check it out if you’re in northern utah.
Today is my last day working at the bike shop so I thought I'd buy myself a bike. Orbea Rallon M10 :)
Attachment 403230
I guess I could sell my Orbea Occam M10 now
Attachment 403231
Toast, smmokan and anyone else
Have any of you actually ridden a Hugene yet?
Seems they’ve had a demo fleet at some of the US bike trade events recently. Would love to get some first hand insight to contrast with the magazine puff pieces that I’ve read with great interest.
I haven't. Supposedly mine's gonna show up around the end of the month, but I'll believe that when I see it.Quote:
Originally Posted by dcpnz
Edit: apparently propain is monitoring this thread. 15 minutes after I wrote this, I got an email from propain. Sounds like the hugene should be showing up in 2 weeks or so.
Had 3 good days on my Gnarvana in Moab. Wow, what a bike. Very playful yet very capable in the chunky shit.
Somewhat lacking on ledgy uphills though?Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
(sorry! too soon?)
Just needs to drive more from the shoulders to negate that.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
lolol
Not yet, but hopefully soon.... sounds like Toast is going to get his before me.Quote:
Originally Posted by dcpnz
Unpossible. I thought it was made pretty clear in the jeep week thread that Moab is blown and no longer capable of producing fun.Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
even though we rode up and crossed numerous 4x4 trails we literally never saw a jeep on an actual trail. the jeeps were only on main street.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dumbest Known Time
Guy on another forum posted up a medium spur frame/fork for sale. Not the greatest price but I know a few were looking for this bike/size.
https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/3314556/
Anyone have thoughts on this bike? https://www.jensonusa.com/Niner-RLT-...Star-Bike-2023
I don't really _need_ a new bike, but I have a pretty small stable: a steel hardtail and an aluminum road bike. There's good gravel riding out my door, and I'd been using my hardtail for those rides, but I do have gravel bike envy. This one has rack mounts so could be used for touring too (Niner says their carbon frames are OK with up to 30 lbs on the rack). I've also been looking at Canyon Grizls but their carbon frames don't have rack mounts and their aluminum frames come with a suspension fork which seems like overkill / unnecessary weight if you have some fairly plush tires.
Thoughts?
^^^Build looks pretty good. RDO carbon f/f. 1x 11sp 11-42 XT 8000 cassette. GRX 800 drivetrain. 45mm Schwalbe's.
Bet it rides great!
I had a steel RLT and loved it except for bad toe overlap. If that one works for you I think it would be good. Carbon cranks and all, but heavy wheels of course.
Gravel bikes are fun, and not the same as MTBs at all, especially if you're kind of a roadie.
Thanks! I'm most of the way there to convincing myself I need this bike. Mrs. PDX is on board too, says I've been talking about a gravel bike for years (true) and I should just pull the trigger.Quote:
Originally Posted by climberevan
Were you setup with 1x or 2x, and how did you feel about it either way? I won't ever race on this bike, but it's possible there will be some spirited club rides. I also expect to do some touring at some point.
I'm a big proponent of 2x. The big jumps on a 1x cassette bother me on roads or rolling terrain, and front derailleurs work beautifully. I run 46/30 front and 11-40 rear most of the time, which is good for bikepacking on steep grades and 45mph on pavement. Sometimes I'll use an 11-34 cassette if I'm not expecting anything steep. I like to be able to spin rather than grind.
That said, you can get a very wide range with 1x as long as you're not sensitive to having just the right cadence. The EC90 crank on that bike should accept a 2x chainring spider, but idk if the left shifter is hollow or functional.
Gravel bikes are fun!
Im with you on 2x! Definitely prefer spinning w smaller jumps. Zero downside afaic
Great feedback, thank you both! I'm definitely more of a roadie, and like to spin. Sounds like I should be looking for a 2x. There's a local shop that has that bike in 2x for $500 more, which sounds about right to me for not having to faff around trying to convert a 1x to 2x, but I'd also get hit with 10% Washington sales tax on top of that, which wouldn't be an issue if I bought from Jenson and shipped to family in Oregon. So just thinking over how much I want to spend.
ime the downside is the chain falling off a 2x which almost never happens with 1x / narrow/wide
98% of the time, I shift like buttah. The other 2% does really suck, but I think the trade-off is worth itQuote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
When I first got 1x it was XT so it didnt drop a chain all season and I was very impressed, same thing with 1x NX on the E-bike no dropped chains eva so there isnt completey zero down side to the old 2x
apparently its 2%
Raaw Madonna V2.2? Differences from the newer V3 look negligible unless I'm missing something. V2.2 Framesets with Ohlins coil shock are like $2100 USD. Fucking cheap.
Both the Raaw and the Privateer look like really solid enduro race bikes - I've tried to point one of my buddies who's been getting in to racing towards them.
Looking at the Raaw v2.2 vs v3, looks like the geo got a smidge longer/slacker (but still not crazy), the kinematic got much more progressive (20->26%), and some of the other curves got tweaked to make it feel more consistent. Also v3 gets UDH for Transmission if you care about that. The AR stays pretty level at ~47% now instead of growing from 29%-55%. That's still a pretty low AR number so it should feel really active under braking but you'd need to run a bit more damping/ramp in your fork. That will be one of the biggest changes from your Gnarvana, which had a really high AR number (~100%), meaning it wanted to sink into its travel while braking, causing it to feel like it firmed up. Both my post-GG bikes have lower AR numbers and to me they feel worlds better blasting through chunk.
Ok, good to know. No UDH is sort of a bummer on the 2.2. I kinda do want Transmission. End of last year was my first foray into wireless shifting and my experience with how bad cable shifting was on the Gnarvana makes me kinda done with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andeh
I can't even get a V3 in Raw alu with the Rocker 60 on their site right now anyway.
The main differences look to be Main Pivot, Head Tube, and UDH. Hard to see 1k there. Likely wont be able to run any new Sram stuff going forward... Unsure if that matters...Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
Edit: I didnt see the progression bump, which is easily the biggest deal IMO.
They do have black in stock...Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
(I agree though, the raw looks great and is "zero fucks" for maintenance.)
Yeah I want a no fucks bike this time around. Not saying I am done with carbon bikes, but want to try something different. Every carbon bike I have ever owned gets THRASHED very quickly. It doesn't help that we pretty much only ride on rocks/scree most of the season up here.
you ever try wrapping the frame ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
I been doing the el cheapo 25$ roll of 3M and it definatley makes a difference, what I found after 2.5 seasons is even if I drop it on rocks its the 3M that takes the hit, it may flake off but leaves the paint
I probably should on the next carbon one. I am always too antsy, so once it's built I'm immediately out riding it.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
If you wrap the frame BEFORE you build the bike it will be much easier, you could do the Ridewrap for $100+ or just get a 25$ roll of 4" wide at the auto parts store and cut it your self, the idea is to just get the main spots which are gona take the hits and forget about the nooks and crannies this is the 3rd bike i have wrapped with 3MQuote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
Yeti 5.5 with the 3M stretched around some curves
Attachment 485285
like this carbon Bullit it has a 4 " piece on top of top tube/ sides of down tube/ sides of swingarm, the corners are rounded and the areas covered are mostly flat, spraying with alcohol & water will stretch the film around corners, Not bad for a bike with 2.5 seasons you can see its not just a dining room bike it gets ridden cuz there is a 1" scratch about 4 " from the head tube and some random hits between the shock and charge port, if not for the 3M I think those would be thru to the black of the carbon
Women seem to love the color lavender, it matches my dining room art and i have matching socks of course
Attachment 485279
I try to at least wrap the lower chain stays with something (I've been using silicon tape as of late) and the bottom of the down tube. Never done a complete wrap, but I always buy used bikes from dentist for cheap so they come pre-scratched.Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
I did the wrap thing on my last bike (GG) and found that it still got scratched in all the places that I didn't have wrap, and the resale value sucked anyways, so I didn't bother with my newer ones. Fuckit, they're mountain bikes, not garage art.
Same. I usually do the bottom of downtube, chainstays, and back of seatube. Then a few little pieces anywhere that gets cable rub. I'm just using the cheap-ish rolls of vinyl tape, so the whole job is a $10, 15 minute process.Quote:
Originally Posted by sfotex
I've been using this stuff on the down tube, chain stays and areas where I get heel rub. It's absolutely biblical.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...bb1b8a9c9c.jpg
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I love the use of grip tape to turn it around onto the shoes. Fuck you, shoes!
My own clear tape habits have changed to just the areas that really get hammered (like stays, down tube, head tube under cables, etc.). I don't bust too much ass to get it everywhere, as rocks end up finding the gaps regardless and the tape eventually starts to peel or discolor, which looks worse than not using it at all. Plus I keep bikes for a long time so resale isn't a big deal for me.