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Made it to work alive. Felt OK and kept a close eye on the spindle. The bolt took about a quarter turn at the office. Replacement crank arm has been ordered, but with frequent torque checks I think it's OK to ride temporarily since driving to work is the worst. No balls-out green light sprints for the time being.
just be careful on the road gaps cuz when the spindle snaps the opposite pedal will come around and put a pedal imprint in your calf and i'm not sure how he managed to stay upright
Is there a temperature range that you stop riding full suspension bikes, assuming you have an alternative to ride? In my case I have a 2019 Patrol NX- Rockshox Yari RC up front, RS deluxe RT air rear. (a developing newb’s) Concerns are premature wear and suspension pressure finnicks
Nah. You may notice some change in performance due to oil viscosity increasing, but you aren't hurting anything.
Do you quit driving your car to protect the suspension in winter?Quote:
Originally Posted by Self Jupiter
Snowmobiles have shocks too
Just enjoy increased damping from both your tires and your shocks.
If loving how cold tires feel is wrong, I don’t want to be right
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mmm mmm mmmmm...........love that soundQuote:
Originally Posted by joetron
Speaking of suspension, and not necessarily temperature related: my shock (Fox Float DPS) has developed a wheezing sound. I hear it on and off when pedaling up, seems like it's blowing air out when compressing. Can't imagine it's good/normal. Has my fatness created an issue? Sucked air in the shock or something? Consequence of overshredding, I need a DXP2 or even burlier to match my awesome riding skills?
Question #2 for those of you who ride in ultra dry conditions: have you found a decent chain lube that survives for more than 20 miles without attracting all the dirt particles in the world? I've been using White Lightning clean ride for a while to roam around the Wasatch but in our standard moondust conditions the lube shits the bed after a while. It works as designed I guess, grabs shit and sheds off the chain to keep it clean but it ends up being too clean after a while. I finished a ride in So Ut earlier this fall and I was legitimately worried my drivetrain was going to explode from being beat on while completely dry. So, mash some lard on the cassette before every ride? Less messy options?
^^^ RE dry lube - I've been using this for years, living in Reno with dusty trails all summer. It used to be available at Lowe's, but YMMV on that - I just get it from Amazon now. I use the spray bottle. Goes on wet, let it soak a minute, wipe any excess... it dries on the chain and is waxy. Doesn't attract much dust, doesn't goop up at all. Cheap!
Downside is that it doesn't last long - re lube every ride. It also doesn't cling well in wet conditions. Made by Finish Line and I think it's just repackaged FL dry lube.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00030BFEM...ding=UTF8&th=1
In my experience, dry lube that leaves your drivetrain looking clean is synonymous with re-lubing every ride and sometimes mid ride. Which is synonymous with a drivetrain that shifts well, then doesn't shift well, then sounds like a sketchy rusted out roller coaster.. I can imagine dry lubes being great for roadies in nice weather.
An ugly looking chain ain't bad. I've been using NFS for years, but it's harder to find now that Silca doesn't sell it. Currently using ProGold Extreme.
Edit: And yea, your shock needs service. The answer to whether you need a shock upgrade is how much money you have to spend. Then again, if you're worried about how pretty your chain is, you're probably also worried about weight, so there's that.
YMMV on the chain lube. Drivetrains on bikes I maintain last forever, but I live in a desert and very very rarely ride in wet or mud. I'll also pull off chains 2-3 times per season and soak in degreaser to get all the gunk out.
Chainlube: Prolink Gold. I used to switch lubes every 6 months trying to find something that I loved in dry Colorado, found this, and was instantly done. It's excellent.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
https://www.amazon.com/Gold-Products...g-goods&sr=1-1
I've tried just about every wax based lube (like the white lightning you reference) out there and they just don't work, in my opinion.
Wheeze: Sounds like your fork has a leaky seal or a valve that's stuck halfway open.
I picked up a bottle of this at the LBS recently and am never going back to finish line dry. Lasts much longer and doesn't seem to pick up too much moondust.Quote:
Originally Posted by beece
https://www.mec.ca/en/product/4015-4...e---4-oz-118ml
I used prolink ^^ for a lot of years and it works well,
https://www.mec.ca/en/product/5026-7...y-Lube---120ml
I switched to a wax/water emulsion ^^ if you get all the old shmoo off the chain/drivetrain the drive train stays very clean, seems to work well ... at least up here
don't let it freeze
Yeah, I like the Squirt. Dry lube that lasts longer. Squirt Low Temp when it gets cold.
Lube should be chosen for conditions. Dry conditions like dry lube better than wet conditions. You'll get better advice from your riding buddies than the internet. Some change lubes with the seasons, which might be age related.
If you let Squirt freeze in the shed over the winter it will thicken up to where it doesn't penetrate so well but its possible to thin out with waterQuote:
Originally Posted by bagtagley
Oh, and get what’s cheap or at least buy in bulk. Nothing like coming up dry because you were reluctant to hose that shit down!
They used to have a great deal on multipacks of that Pro Link stuff at Performance. One of the only things Performance was good for.
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Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
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Originally Posted by jm2e
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Originally Posted by beece
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Originally Posted by XXX-er
Thanks all, that gives me a good starting point.Quote:
Originally Posted by jono
Jono, the Wasatch only knows 1 set of conditions: dry as can be. Thus my asking for people with experience in similarly bone dry and dusty environments.
Jm2e, I really don't care about the look of my drivetrain as long as it shifts well and is relatively quiet. If coating it in black tar meant good performance I'd go that route...
Re: shock, I figured it needed to be serviced. Is it worth attempting to do on my own or are the $150 Fox is asking money well spent?
I've been happiest with Dumonde Tech here in Utah. I wipe, apply, and wipe excess before every ride. Two minute routine while I check air pressure.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
As far as self servicing the shock, I was told it takes specialized tools and nitrogen purged something or other. So I paid to have it fixed.
Send it to Fox or have Go Ride do it. A basic air sleeve service is a very DIY-able job, but something is probably buggered in the damper and that's a job for pros.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
Oh snap, Go Ride seems like the way to go for us SLC peeps. I think I may limp on that shock for a few more weeks and once the snow flies I'll take it in, thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by Dantheman
Is going to the suspension syndicate (Cody iirc?) in salt lake a good call? He used to be the suspension guy at go ride before heading out on his own....
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Definitely, he’s the best in town by a lot. Fastest turnaround to. And you can pre schedule on his website.Quote:
Originally Posted by detrusor
Yep. Cody is the man.Quote:
Originally Posted by detrusor
He’ll be spending a lot of time in Moab this winter, so be sure to call ahead before heading down to Suspension Syndicate
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That guy is awesome
I mailed him a dhx2 a few years ago with a bag full of home made internal spacers and piston head nonsense and said 'here, do this'
And he did
I had heard about this guy before but completely forgot about him, thanks for the reminder.Quote:
Originally Posted by beaterdit
Reached out to him this AM, we'll see what he says. Of course the shock sounds perfectly normal now even though I could have sworn I was riding an overweight asthmatic pig this weekend. Something's definitely wrong though, the fucker is way more damp than it should be even with rebound cranked up...Quote:
Originally Posted by Dantheman
Um......Quote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
What I'm trying to convey is that there has been a sudden change in performance. My wording probably sucks, I'm bad at describing how bikes/skis feel, I just adapt to things rather than tinker. I couldn't write a review to save my life, I usually end up being happy with whatever I'm on.Quote:
Originally Posted by kidwoo
I keep an eye on the shock pressure to make sure it's steady and I've rarely if ever touched any of the settings. Last weekend the bike felt very different in a way I couldn't really describe other than more damp and less lively than usual, kinda sluggish. So I played with settings on the rebound and even 5 extra cliks in the open direction didn't make an appreciable difference (starting at the middle which is where I've been since I got the bike). Pressure was unchanged when I checked it that night. That plus the new squishing sounds make me think something's off. Odd as I haven't taken any major hits or bottomed out the shock recently. Since I don't know what I'm doing I'll have someone who does look at it...
The wheezy sound is probably cavitation. You got gas. Makes for very inconsistent performance. Once you start riding for a bit and heat it up and push the bubble around it’ll start to sound and feel shitty.
Cody can fix that
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Ah, when you said 'cranked' I though you meant maxed out, as in clockwise, as in all the damping. Which would be 'over damped'
There are a few things that could be going on. Measure your eye to eye on the shock, you may have overfilled the negative chamber (not something you would have done, it just happens) and it's not equalizing for some reason. Could be as simple as grease in the exchange port between the two chambers. Taking the sleeve off and resetting would fix it. Take the air out first.
Squishing may be a few things:
1) oil breaking down enough that you have bubbles or a messed up seal that's allowed air in.
b)Something came loose or broke on the piston head and is just all (to use a technical term) cattywhompus.
An oil change would find any of these.
edit: dammit joE!
Thanks, I've read all kinds of threads about shocks sounding like 2-pack-a-day smokers and cavitation/blown seals are at the top of the culprit list.
The shock came stock with the bike and I got the bike second-hand (300 miles), I added about 900 miles so I'm definitely overdue for a service per Fox's recommendations. I'll have Cody look at it and maybe throw in a volume spacer and I think I blow through the travel a bit too easily but can't justify getting a burlier shock...
Edit: bike is with Cody now. He called this AM, said he'd get it down by Friday. Shock rebuild & tune + fork service. Should have asked for the dropper too.
I need a recommendation for an aerosol degreaser spray, specifically for decontaminating brake pads. Finish Line Speed Degreaser? Since it's specifically for brakes not drivetrain, I need something without any foaming or lubricating agents.
Brake cleaner?
If anyone has something that really works on cleaning contaminated brake pads, I'm all ears. I've tried -- with varying degrees of success, and in combination --
-rubbing alcohol
-sanding
-light on fire
-light on fire with propane torch
-heat to ridiculous temp in BBQ
Sometimes it works. On some Shimano finned resin pads that got contaminated by Caltrans winter road salt/slush crap, I never was able to make the pads work again without squealing... finally gave up and threw them out.
TruckerCo replacement pads at $8/set saves a lot of time and frustration.
I have a can of el cheapo brake cleaner at Harbor Freight, spray it on a paper towel, rub the brake pads on, score them with sand paper, reinstall, seems to take care of squealing/loss of power after I rub my greasy fingers on the rotor (or spray lubricant on there by accident). Using IPA or ethanol from the lab never seemed to work as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
From my research, that's the way to do it, adding in one more rinse of the pads & rotors after sanding. I read that using fire only works with metallic pads, not organic / semi-organic. I've had some success doing it that way. I have a can of some generic cleaner but it only works so-so, and it's almost empty. The only time I've failed to restore them was after I got some truly nasty crap (CRC Disc Brake Quiet, meant to "glue" the pads to the calipers) onto the rotors and pads. There was no saving those. It was a dumb idea to try anyways (was trying to stop Shimano pad rattle).Quote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
I can't imagine a non-sintered resin pad would like to be torched. The compound is pretty damn soft and it probably doesn't take much heat to change the surface property and ruin it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andeh
And you are correct, another round of cleaning after sanding the pads helps remove loose stuff. I had a set of pads that seemed unredeemable until I fully cleaned the rotor (with the brake cleaner spray) and roughed it up a bit with fine sandpaper. Pads have been quiet ever since.
I've been suffering with squeal for the last couple years. More often on mrs2e's bikes, but sometimes on mine. I've spent enough time sanding and cleaning pads and rotors that my paltry hourly rate at work would have paid for new rotors and pads.
Most of the time I write it off to poor bedding in, but even then I've had squealers.
Right now, wife's bikes are all set up with Trixtuff pads which seem way more resistant to squeal and still have a metric shit ton of grab. I'm quickly burning through all the pads/rotors I've pulled off her bikes.
If you told me Sram/Hope/Magura were squeal-less compared with Saint/Zee, I might finally consider switching. (edit-if you told me that about Sram I might spit coffee through my nose from laughing so hard)