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However, I now have a 2004 4runner sr5 4wd for sale... It has 2013 Fj cruiser trail team springs and shocks on it for a slight lift of about an inch. If you don't think an inch makes a difference, ask your wife.
160 on the v6, gets 19-20 mpg on the freeway. 2 sets of tires. Has been a child to daycare delivery vehicle on i80 the last few years. Just got a new pioneer touchscreen stereo and front speakers installed at xmas.
$8500 it's yours... I'm in the avenues now.
I just sold the same truck (in grey, Off Road trim, 125k miles) for $8k. I owned it for 5-6 years and it was bomber, no break downs, just regular service and never a single headache. MPG's are bad and it's really tall, but if my current commute was shorter and I had taller garage doors I'd still be driving it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dantheman
If I remember right the factory clutch might have been kinda crappy in the '06? Mine had been replaced by the first owner so I never had an issue, but I'd look into that.
http://forums.edmunds.com/discussion...ssion-problems
Own a piece of the T. Shitty Detroit from the sounds of it, but the rest of the 4WD drivetrain looks built for nuclear warfare. Sprinters and Transits, eat your heart out.
http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/noYAAO...kL/s-l1600.jpg
Those Xterras are a good value.
So I want to put 285's on my '04 Silverado 2500 HD. The current 265's are shot and have always looked a notch small. Fitting 285's requires lifting the front end a little, I can buy the torsion keys from Rough Country for $99 and it's supposed to be an easy job. Do I have to buy new front shocks? I spent almost 5 whole minutes on another forum trying to figure this out and I got bored so help me out.
Go 235.
wrong direction mang.
edit: 285 is the right size for that truck imo. it will just look square and beefy, not lifted and overbuilt
What is your rim, 16 I would imagine?
It's roughly a 33". But skinny and cuts. Would fit without a lift.
Right direction.
yeah 16
235 85 r16
But what do I know, I drive an '87 chevy 5/4 ton.
But my old Ford loved them.
hrm. Worth thinking about, def. better for snow. I'll kick that around.Quote:
Originally Posted by MakersTeleMark
Yeah I misunderstood at first, now I get it.Quote:
Originally Posted by MakersTeleMark
In jeans. ;7)Quote:
Originally Posted by iceman
Is it a V8?Quote:
Originally Posted by funkendrenchman
Ice, unless you plan on doing a bunch of offroading, with the wheels articulating a bunch, you should be fine. The really big lifts have the potential of maxing out your shock, so they bottom out on the top end.
That is how I've always understood it. If you look on the OME website, they have a pretty good breakdown of what shock you need with what size lift. Might be nice to get new shocks though. They are relatively cheap, and really easy to change out.
You'll need new wheels for 285/75 tires on that truck, if you currently have the stock 16 X 6.5" wheels. Even 265/75 are too wide - they'll wear faster down the center, unless you run low pressure, which defeats the purpose of a 2500 truck.Quote:
Originally Posted by iceman
They're not the stock wheels, they're a little wider, I think 16 x 8 although I bought them 10 years ago so I'm not positive on that. I wonder if it says the dimension on the wheels somewhere? Maybe I can find the paperwork from when I bought them.
They're likely stickered or stamped on the inside of the wheel but one may have to be pulled off to find out. Sometimes the stamp is on the hub mating surface.
235 pizza cutters would kill it on snow assuming proper tire tread. You trade in some dry road cornering traction, however. But as pointed out the narrow tire will have less of an issue rubbing. Lots of opinions on pizza cutter vs wide tires out there.
I'll double check, but when I put new rubber on the Silverado last year, I put Michelin 285s with a slight lift in the front end.Quote:
Originally Posted by iceman
Edit: 265 Michelin LTX.
16x8 will work fine on 265/75 or 285/75. 9" width would probably give a bit better tread wear, but that's less common, and I wouldn't go to the expense of changing wheels just for that. 10" width leaves the wheel a little too exposed to damage offroad, with a 285 section width tire.Quote:
Originally Posted by iceman
I had an '03 2500 Duramax. I ran 285/75 R16s on the factory wheels. 10-ply load range. Without torsion keys I had to trim the corners of the air dam to avoid rubbing at full lock. Then I tore it off on a rut in some blast rock, and didn't have to worry about that anymore.Quote:
Originally Posted by iceman
https://scontent-yyz1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...3a&oe=56FD7375
When I added the torsion keys, I also put blocks in the rear. I also had to replace the shocks at that time because they were toast(240km). No pics of it with the level and blocks.
With both blocks and the level didn't it still end up ass-up? I'd like mine to end up flat.
Attachment 175335
'04 2500hd with 295/75/16's on 16x9 wheels. Torsion key leveling, about 1.5" lift, rubbed a little bit on the mud flaps under just the right conditions. Stock shocks, handled and drove fine considering the load that was on it, either two sleds or two quads.
Level was about 2", and the blocks were only 1". I carried a dry box full of heavy shit, so it sat pretty much level.Quote:
Originally Posted by iceman
285s are perfect for those trucks, they will rub a bit at full lock (at least they did on the SAR truck I used to drive a lot). I run em on my f250 too and the handling difference vs 235s when its dry is noticeable.
It's not the load you have to worry about with the shocks. It is the other direction. If the shock maxes out on the way up, the tire doesn't stay on the ground. That is why you need longer shocks with a big lift.Quote:
Originally Posted by PlayHarder
Do not fuck with the t-bars, unless you like replacing front end components.
285 should be fine on that truck unless you are off roading it, which it doesn't sound like you are. As stated you will have some rub at full lock but it is a non-issue. We've had 285 duratracs on the suburban for a couple years, they are good in snow.
Supposedly the torsion keys keep the stock suspension geometry and don't stress things but that's just what I read somewhere. I tried 285's on there when I bought the current 265's and they rubbed pretty bad. Even with the 265's I ended up taking a little bit of the air dam off with a sawzall, it's not really visible unless you look closely but it had a little lip on the back corner that was hitting so I just sliced it off.
Haha, don't think the $99 dollar leveling kit Ice is looking at qualifies as a big lift requiring extra shock.Quote:
Originally Posted by warthog
I'm kind of amazed that you can buy anything for a vehicle that actually does something for only $99, bargain. I know they're just two hunks of metal but still.
I'm just gonna leave the shocks on there and see how it goes, they're good heavy duty shocks and not worn out. I can always change them out later. Thanks for the help fellas.
Had to look to see what I had on my 2011 2500 -- an M+ S 265/70 r17, just barely bigger than allowed for using chains by Chevy, but the chains do clear the works just enough
Hmmm, I had heard a little about the clutch issues but based on that thread it was more widespread than I realized. Seems like they generally went before 50k though, so at 136k I'm guessing that this one has either been replaced already or may not be affected.Quote:
Originally Posted by benfjord
Is there any way to tell if a clutch has been replaced just by looking at the tranny while it's up on the lift?
Nice truck.But ever think of helpers or another leaf in the back?Quote:
Originally Posted by PlayHarder
(not saying it needs it but that shit's heavy)
DTM I recommend a 05-06 Honda CRV awd with the 5 speed stick.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dantheman
Drives really nicely and does great in snow with studs. Wife think it's "zippy" and fun, has that famous buttery honda stick shift.
In 2005 they improved the 4wd system and I believe it has better traction control than earlier models. Even has a built in picnic table in the back!
You routinely see these going strong at 300K+ miles. Timing chain and it's a honda.
We got a pretty nice 2005 last year, one owner, well-maintained with 105K on the clock for 10.5K and that was from a stealership, so you could do better. We're at 120K now and no issues whatsoever, hope to keep it a long time.
That Xterra 6 speed sound like a good option though and it's a real 4wd.
I'm not really a fan of how the rear door opens sideways on those CRVs, especially when hitch bike racks are involved which is basically Mar-Nov. Plus, we have the "high clearance AWD station wagon" slot covered with our Rogue. I want this vehicle to be one that is more off-road capable.
At the risk of a thread jack, what should I be worried about with a 2000 F150 with the v8 and really low miles? Anyone know these trucks well enough to give advice?
There was a recall on the cruise control, causing the steering wheel to catch fire. That got handled around 04 or 05. The 3-valve V-8's had some cylinder head issues, not sure if yours is one of those. Overall, that vintage was fairly bulletproof, it should last a long time.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sirshredalot
I'm always wary of old cars with low miles.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sirshredalot