Definitely need to be right on it when they make the plates. I call and get the rough estimate of when they will be done, then pester them until they ship.
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Definitely need to be right on it when they make the plates. I call and get the rough estimate of when they will be done, then pester them until they ship.
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I talked to SVST recently about plate availability and it sounds like they are producing the plates during the off season, and once a plate is sold out for the season, there won't be more available until summer/next season. Kind of weak IMO.
I presume there is not a huge profit on the plates. And, along with many other winter fabrications, they'd have to stop their summer fabrication schedule to reset and make limited runs to meet a small demand.
Plates are now made in the US
Picked up a Jigarex in the offseason intending to mount all my new skis. However, my season got derailed thanks to a hard mt. bike crash that resulted in a full shoulder reconstruction (full rotator cuff tear, shredded biceps tendon, labrum tear, etc).
I'm finally getting around to attempting to mount bindings and am having a hell of a time centering the Jigarex. I use a center punch to mark the screw holes, then measure to verify they are in the proper position. I pretty consistently find that the jigarex is off by 1-2mm.
To make matters worse, the Jigarex slipped off my mounting table and fell to the floor, bending two of the centering arms. I've done everything I can to straighten them.
Any suggestions to center the Jigarex would be much appreciated.
Hmm, not sure what to tell you, mine has worked great. I am anal so I marked a permanent center line on each end of the Jiga-Rex frame. I put a strip of masking tape on the skis and mark the center line and then double check after mounting the Jiga-Rex it is dead nuts. I drill the holes and for the first couple of mounts I did I checked the spacing with a dial caliper and they were perfect.
Maybe do as I do being sure the Jiga-Rex is perfectly centered on the skis without tightening the arms. Then tighten the arms and see if it pushes the frame off line. This would confirm if the damaged arms are the culprit. Also, do not over tighten the arms. They should just touch the skis, too much force can squeeze the rubber bumpers. If the arms are bent you can put a strip or two of tape on one or more of the bumpers to shim them.
I'll give your suggestions a try. I ordered several of the SlideWright Centering Ruler Stickers mentioned in an earlier post in this thread (I read the entire thread looking for solutions). Wish I'd done that before trying the Jigarex for the first time. Would likely have saved me tons of time...
Didn't read the whole thread, but has anyone had issues with the Look/Rossi plates and FKS? Doing test mounts, the heel seems to work a lot better if you adjust the Jigarex to add at least 1cm to your BSL, so the adjustment rods are near the first hash mark instead of the middle or third mark. The dildo has much better snap and the boot is more rigid in the binding at the first hash mark.
My plates are several years old though, no idea if they made revisions.
I had one of the originals. Had lots of problems with the teeth skipping etc and not being centered. They had me send it in and rebuilt it. Apparently lots better parts in the newer models. No issues since.
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My three year old Jiga-Rex has been money. Have plates for Salomon STH, Salomon Z or S 10 (has the three screw toe) and Fritschi Vipec.
FWIW I always put a piece of masking tape down the middle of the ski and mark the center line. I have filed a small groove on each end of the jig exactly in the middle. This way when I put the jig on the ski and tighten it down I am double checking its properly centered. No real reason to do this other than being anal.
Since this thread got bumped...
Issue I had last spring was using the jigarex on a wider cambered ski . The middle of the side rails rested on the ski and the jig would teeter and rock fore and aft when drilling which kind of f#&ked up the accuracy. Tried clamping the front but then the back rocked way up off the ski, and vice-versa.
Manufacturer jigs I’ve used/seen have prominent “feet” near front and back of jig that would prevent this. Thinking of adding something thick, wide and sticky to my jigarex near the ends.
Anyone done it or got good suggestions??
I do clamp both ends of mine to prevent this....
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Anyone have plates they don't plan to utilize anymore (switched bindings, etc.) that they'd be interested in selling? PM what you have and include price to ship to 98117.
Looking for:
- Look Pivot
- Salomon STH2
- Marker Jester/Griffon/Squire family
and possibly Guardian large
Hey man, I’ve got pivot & sth2 to lend ya local here if you just want to get by at this point without buying. .
You bought my Q’s ya?
For Maggots in SLC I have the following plates:
STH2's
Salomon S & Z 10 with the three screw toe
Fristchi Vipec
Any chance of a Salomon/Atomic Shift Jigarex mounting plate/pattern being made?
For Mt Hood area mags, I got STH2 plates and a jigarex I’m willing to loan out.
Bump for any update on shift plate availability?
Spoke w them yesterday and they haven’t been able to verify a mount so they aren’t selling yet.
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thanks for the update
Yo- Anyone in So Cal Area have a Jigarex ? Willing to sell/ lend/ trade for gear? I have some hook ups-
Gracias
PSA.
Shift plates are now available to order on the jigarex site.
I bought a plate and confirmed it worked for them. It’s perfect. I’m in the PC area if anyone needs.
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Anyone able add the shift plate to their cart on Binding Freedom site? I can add any others but doesn't work for the shift. Can they possibly be sold out already?
Just spoke to duder at SVST and he confirmed that they are in fact already sold out of the Shift plates. They are hoping to get the manufacturer to make more but that is still TBD. Anyone on in the CO front range or summit that have one I could borrow briefly? Was hoping to avoid the paper template route but will go that way if I have to.
I have a jigarex with the following plates in NYC. Would be happy to help anyone that's local mount their skis or let them borrow whatever they need.
Marker Duke EPF
Marker Kingpin
Dynafit Beast 14
Dynafit Beast 16
Dynafit Vertical
Dynafit Radical
Plum Race
Hagan Race / BD Helio / some ATK
Going to mount some MTNs soon with the jigarex. Anyone have any tips for tech bindings they swear by?
No Mtn experience. But alpinist.
Do some test mounts on 2x4 first. Biggest issue is toe hole tolerance. I actually think the tolerances of a jigarex or standard style jig are insufficient for tech toes. Jigs like dynafit and atk are much more substantial.
Be aware there are some ski widths the jigarex does not sit super well on and care must be taken. I found this out on some 108 waist skis and had to remount 7mm forwards as one set of holes was off center.
Use a punch that sits perfectly in the drill guides. Make sure it is perfectly straight when you punch it. Look in the hole and be sure the punch looks perfectly centered. Same for the drill, get it super straight. Taking allot of care I have had good luck with tech toes and heels lining up. Bindings like the alpinist with the counter sunk screws don’t give you much option to finesse it straight if the holes are a little off. And a tiny bit can certainly mean some misalignment at the heel.
Although and take this with a pinch of salt, I’ve skied tech what the heel didn’t drop perfectly into the pins with no adverse affects. I’d bet allot of shop mounts are not perfect if people actually checked them instead of just clicking in.
with or without jigs ( i never use them ) you want the heel dropping into the pins perfectly SO.
figure out where (fore-aft) you want the binding & mount the heel at Deadcenter
lock the boot in the binding and the toe will be where it needs to go lengthwise
now mount the toe piece at dead center by ONE SCREW only
Now for the key move, with the boot locked in the toe piece it can pivot around that 1 screw ever so slightly to find its happy place, get one more screw in the toe piece AND cuz you drilled with the boot locked in the binding the heel should drop in perfect
this will work for any frame binding, i've used it to mount my FR+
Yeah my plan was to do a test mount on a 2x4 and then VERY careful center punches that'll be measured with calipers before drilling on the actual ski. I'm hoping this will catch any sort of alignment issues before any holes are made.
Most of the bits and punches I have were ordered from the Binding Freedom website and actually fit perfectly into the Jigarex which, in theory, should account for any issues with straight drilling or tapping.
Planning on inserting the heels after as well so I can take add the MTN brakes later if I so desire.
XXX-er's method seems like it'd work but I'm not sure I want do that without anyone supervising me who has done it before.