Does anyone love the dynafits ramp angle?

Haven't read this thread lately, but wanted to point something out about boot differences and ramp angle. With my Maestrale RS in Ions, I was waaaaay too forward until I made 1/4" toe shims. Much, much better with the shim.

Then I skied Vipecs with 2017 Cochise. Actually felt like there wasn't enough ramp angle and the boots were too upright. Got home and measured, and sure enough I'll have to make 1/8" shims for the heels so that the Cochise/Vipec angle matches Cochise/Salomon STH. No doubt this goes for any of the new hybrid DIN / tech soles, like the K2.

Can't imagine what a Cochise in a Beast 16 would be like, you'd probably need 1/4" heel shims to match most alpine binding angles.

I can't find the ramp angle/toe- heel difference in mm's of an ATK raider 12 or 14. Anyone know?

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Originally Posted by 1000-oaks

Haven't read this thread lately, but wanted to point something out about boot differences and ramp angle.

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I just had a similar experience when I bought a pair of TLT6s. The TLTs fell like a much more upright ramp with my radical 2.0s. I was planning on shimming the toes when skiing them with my beast boots, and I probably still will, but might remove them for the TLTs.

Seth

Nope. Run a solyfit plate under the toes of my Vert FT12s.

Makes a big difference.

I have a 25.0 boot, so with 17mm delta or so, the angle is relatively steep.

Especially when considering I ski fks alpine for comparison.

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Originally Posted by zion zig zag

I can't find the ramp angle/toe- heel difference in mm's of an ATK raider 12 or 14. Anyone know?

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Skimo.co hasn't updated the table here yet:
http://skimo.co/pin-heights
...but they should be able to measure it for you (for the Hagan rebranded version).

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Originally Posted by reckless toboggan

Nope. Run a solyfit plate under the toes of my Vert FT12s.

Makes a big difference.

I have a 25.0 boot, so with 17mm delta or so, the angle is relatively steep.

Especially when considering I ski fks alpine for comparison.

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Point is, it's more about the boots than the bindings. With Cochise/Strider/Pinnacle/Freetour type DIN/tech boots, there's no need to shim the toe of any tech binding (except possibly Plum), in fact the heels might have to be shimmed on some combinations (Beast/Kingpin/Vipec) to achieve "alpine binding" ramp.

With a rockered sole boot (Maestrale/Vulcan/etc), all tech binding toes (except maybe Beast) need to be shimmed to achieve an alpine ramp.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by zion zig zag

I can't find the ramp angle/toe- heel difference in mm's of an ATK raider 12 or 14. Anyone know?

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I asked in another thread once, and I seem to remember Lindah responded with the numbers. Probably the ATK raider thread?

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Originally Posted by 1000-oaks

Point is, it's more about the boots than the bindings. With Cochise/Strider/Pinnacle/Freetour type DIN/tech boots, there's no need to shim the toe of any tech binding (except possibly Plum), in fact the heels might have to be shimmed on some combinations (Beast/Kingpin/Vipec) to achieve "alpine binding" ramp.

With a rockered sole boot (Maestrale/Vulcan/etc), all tech binding toes (except maybe Beast) need to be shimmed to achieve an alpine ramp.

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When this thread was made it was about Dynafit and ramp angle, not newer "pintech" bindings with less ramp and I don't know if there were any of the newer din soled tech compatible boots around. Most every boot used with Dynafits at the time this thread was started had a rockered AT sole. Things have changed.

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Originally Posted by Jonathan S.

Skimo.co hasn't updated the table here yet:
http://skimo.co/pin-heights
...but they should be able to measure it for you (for the Hagan rebranded version).

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I asked and they updated. 10.5 mm.

Installation question.

The screws I got from bnd are wider than the screws my bindings came with and they don't fit through the holes in the bindings (see pictures).


Am I better off 1. Drilling out the binding holes 2. Grinding down the threads 3. Getting different screws or 4. Something else?


Thanks!

Attachment 225446Attachment 225447

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I'd drill out rather than fuck with screws. As long as it's not much very much more than a cunt hair's worth.

It was normal practice to have to do this with some older dynafits with their supplied screws.

Update:

Bnd wrote back and said just to crank the screws on in there. And that seemed to work.

And man, even from the carpet test I can tell a huge difference. Can't wait to ski!

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The B&D screws are a different pitch to normal screws also. I didn't use the ones I bought for that reason.

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Originally Posted by LC

The B&D screws are a different pitch to normal screws also. I didn't use the ones I bought for that reason.

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Anyone know where I can get screws just like the ones that come with Dynafit Vertical ST's only longer. I want to experiment with less ramp angle and use the same holes.

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Originally Posted by AweShuksan

Anyone know where I can get screws just like the ones that come with Dynafit Vertical ST's only longer. I want to experiment with less ramp angle and use the same holes.

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I bought the 23.5mm screws from Skimo.co for adding a 4mm shim to the toes on my Vertical ST. The screw threads looked like a match for the original screws. The heads were a tiny bit wider, but fit acceptably. I had to grind each screw shorter by about 1 thread - but I was using homemade shims from 4mm cutting board from Walmart, not the 4.7mm shims that Skimo.co sells.

Have not yet skied the bindings with the shims, but I remounted the toes with the shims and new screws, and it all went together fine.

I Used inserts. Non problem getting any length screw from home despot


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I’m on ooold Vertical FTs and I finally got so sick of the ramp angle I’m going to do something about it.

I’m making 6mm DIY shims. Wondering what is the best way to shim the FT toe…it has the ‘High Torque’ fibreglass plate connecting the toe and heel. If I shim the toe the plate will be hanging above the ski.

Just do it and leave the plate hanging in midair between the bindings?
Cut off the fibreglass plate behind the toe? So everything lays flat?

IIRC that connector plate didn't do anything, was just cosmetic.

There was a company that made toe shim kits - - B&D? I bought their longer toe screws and made my own toe shims from cutting board, for Vertical STs.

Take the plate off the heel only, get shorter screws and your done

B&D is the company and they still supply a plethora of shims, ski crampons and other accessories

For vertical FT’s, trim back the fiberglass silver connector

The six mm toe shim is money
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Is there some theoretical reason that dynafit has such a massive ramp angle? It seems like most people either think it sucks or is at best tolerable, so why do that in the first place?

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Originally Posted by fleaches

Is there some theoretical reason that dynafit has such a massive ramp angle? It seems like most people either think it sucks or is at best tolerable, so why do that in the first place?

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They decided to add brakes to bindings that otherwise didn't have brakes, thus raising the heal. They didn't do anything to raise the toes and they have stuck with that kind of design ever since.

I don't think I know a single person who still skis Dynafit bindings. I stopped because I couldn't stand the ramp angle. My only pin bindings are now ATK/ Moment and I'm so much happier.

I ski verts and rads, I've never tried any other Tech so it just is

Lou dawson didn't like the ramp

so nobody liked the ramp

These necrobumps are fun to read. I can’t believe I didn’t post in this originally. I want all my ramp angles to match. Why shouldn’t I? My first Verts were mounted by Pro Ski in Seattle and the guy basically said he’d put a plate under there to fix the ramp, before I even knew it was a thing.

I didn’t really think about the ramp
Until I bought a pair of 175 cm UL GPO’s for a hut trip here in the Tetons

Mounted Dynafits for first time on a GPO (before I had skied 178 cm wailer 105 with Dynafit verticals and they were good enough, my first skis with a pin binging).

I tested out the skis one day at Snowmass on a trip just skiing inbounds and they felt super far forward, like no bueno for pow skiing!

I researched here and had a set of 6 mm B&D toe shims installed on the GPO’s

Took them up Teton pass fir a test run two days before our hut trip and problem solved. I could drive the ski in powder without fear of tip dive.

Later that spring I ended up trying out a pair of 173 cm Dynafit Grand Teton skis with Dynafit radicals and had no issues with the ramp angle. Took them and skied Hotlum-Wintun on Shasta as well as soft corn to slush on Lassen without problem, not even a passing thought.

Ramp angle sensitivity seems to be ski dependent IME

I didn’t like the verticals on my 177 protests with Dynafit verticals because of the pressure on the front of the ski with the ramp and planned to shim the toes but ended up selling them

Maybe skis with more tip rocker and slightly forward mounts (GPO and Protests in my experience) may be more susceptible to Dynafit ramp angle causing problems with too much pressure on the front of the ski.


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I skied Dynafits for long enough to get used to it and felt all out of whack when I got alpinist bindings. I think many people just adjust, but it may help to find your preferred ramp angle. Mostly, it's a micro-thing for me.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hoarhey

I didn’t really think about the ramp
Until I bought a pair of 175 cm UL GPO’s for a hut trip here in the Tetons

Mounted Dynafits for first time on a GPO (before I had skied 178 cm wailer 105 with Dynafit verticals and they were good enough, my first skis with a pin binging).

I tested out the skis one day at Snowmass on a trip just skiing inbounds and they felt super far forward, like no bueno for pow skiing!

I researched here and had a set of 6 mm B&D toe shims installed on the GPO’s

Took them up Teton pass fir a test run two days before our hut trip and problem solved. I could drive the ski in powder without fear of tip dive.

Later that spring I ended up trying out a pair of 173 cm Dynafit Grand Teton skis with Dynafit radicals and had no issues with the ramp angle. Took them and skied Hotlum-Wintun on Shasta as well as soft corn to slush on Lassen without problem, not even a passing thought.

Ramp angle sensitivity seems to be ski dependent IME

I didn’t like the verticals on my 177 protests with Dynafit verticals because of the pressure on the front of the ski with the ramp and planned to shim the toes but ended up selling them

Maybe skis with more tip rocker and slightly forward mounts (GPO and Protests in my experience) may be more susceptible to Dynafit ramp angle causing problems with too much pressure on the front of the ski.


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GT is a Stoke with different graphics, I think cuz Greg Hill went to Salomon, you could lean on the front of those skis all day and nothing was going to happen, IMO Stoke was best skied by scuffing your instep to turn from the middle of the ski like you have some shit on the bottom of your ski, I still got a pair in rotation

I have skied rads / verts while pondering this important ramp question and come to the realization I am an insensitive bastard

Hoarhey - completely agree the ski design really affects the impact of ramp delta. Old skis with traditional mount points that need a lot of tip pressure seemed to ski fine with stock Verticals and a lot of ramp delta. Newer more progressively mounted skis prefer a flatter ramp delta. Boot forward lean also impacts the feel. I have skis Praxis GPOs and Yetis with and without toe shims and they are way better with toe shims!

That said, I think newer Speed Radicals with a 6m toe shim are fine from a "ramp delta" standpoint and the ramp delta doesn't have to be completely neutral like a Marker Alpinist. All my bindings are around that delta.
Radical + toe shim: +8.5
Dynafit TLT Speed 12: +7.5
Speed Superlite 2.0: +7.5
Kreuzspitze GT and RS heels on adjustment plates: +6ish
Ski Trab TR Race Adjustable: +6

I’ve spent a lifetime on rearward mounts on skis designed that way, with aggressive forward lean in my boots, and plenty of ramp in my bindings. Anything else feels wrong, but we have plenty of choices and shims to tweak them, so go with whatever works. I’m putting heel shims in my Zeds to reproduce the ~10mm ramp that I’m convinced I prefer. In a perfect world we’d get to experiment with a range mount points, ramp and forward lean angles to dial in the ideal position on a ski, but I’m just making an informed guess and adapting from there.