Printable View
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...111742856f.jpg
First mount of the year with the new jig! Worked really well, and specifically made it so much easier to find the best spot to fit the new holes in between the old ones. Using a paper template for a 3rd mount is pretty much a no-go. Also, throwing in the center punch with the jig was icing on the cake. So stoked to be mounting skis for my friends and fam this season, thanks MottN!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
MottN, what do you use to glue the brass tubes into the printed templates? I haven't had much luck with anything sticking for very long, even after roughing up the tubes a bit.
Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
MottN, I'm interested in picking up one of your jigs, but as I'm new here I don't appear to have pm privileges. Any way you can contact me?
You can email me at [Redacted]Quote:
Originally Posted by The Iron Horse
Quote:
Originally Posted by fleaches
I have found that the hole size needs to be dialed in to get a good fit of the inserts into the plastic. So usually I print a quick test piece with every roll of filament (even from the same mfg). I print them with a very slight press that they need to be tapped in. Usually that works out to 9.05mm holes.
I put a couple dabs of super glue and spread around a little, and then press the insert in. Then I debur and clean out the excess glue ones it dries.
That has seemed to hold up well based on my initial testing, but other than that the most I have personally used any single set of holes is twice. ...so I don't know that I have a perfect system either, That said I think having loose-ish holes might make it harder to get a good bond.
I know the templates that I initially uploaded were all 9.1mm, and most of the time lately I think that has been too loose. Fairly recently I re-uploaded every of the template files with 9.0mm, 9.05mm and 9.1mm versions and also one without the shoulder and at 8.25mm for direct use with a drill (i just wrote a script to change variables and create them all). Since you have easy access to print more, the 8.25mm and ignore the problem might be the easiest solution.
Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by MottN
Has anyone mounted pivots with this yet? Wondering if the template is set up to be right in the middle of the adjustment range or if you have to do that weird "shrink the bsl by 0.5 cm" before drilling heels like on the real jig.
Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
I just received my MottJig and will be doing a Pivot test mount shortly.Quote:
Originally Posted by fleaches
My Pivot template is based on dimensions from Knut's paper template.Quote:
Originally Posted by fleaches
I just did some measuring and the BF template in the paper template thread puts the holes ~5mm closer the heel line, so maybe that one matches the official jig with the 5mm bs...? I've seen people saying that both were correct in different threads at different times, so I thought both had already taken that into account and were the same until just now.
I think KillerMonkey and PinyonJuniper in this thread show pictures using the Pivot templates too. I haven't mounted with it so I can't say for sure its correct.
If my dimensions are off for getting the forward pressure right, let me know and I will fix.
Yes, have mounted pivots with this jig. Was not aware of the 0.5cm thing so did not make any adjustments. After mounting I adjusted the screw until the forward pressure indicator was in the right position.
No problems since.
So i guess the question is how much out of the middle of the adjustment range did that put you? Are you near the limit to where if you switched to a boot with slightly shorter BSL it would be a problem?Quote:
Originally Posted by KillerMonkey
Thanks guys.
If it's based on Knut's paper templates then yes there's no adjustment needed to be in the middle of the binding adjustment range.
Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
I believe that was only a thing with older Pivot/FKS jigs.Quote:
Originally Posted by fleaches
I mount with my pivot jig without making any adjustments and don’t think it’s mounting wrong. Seems perfect to me
With the mott jig? Or an oem jig?Quote:
Originally Posted by Climber Joe
I have never actually used an official pivot jig so I'm not sure when this does and doesn't apply, I just remember getting worried about it when I did a paper mount a couple of years ago. It seemed like a very strange procedure so I hope they did fix it.Quote:
Originally Posted by One (+) Sentence
Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
Damn, just took delivery. This is a really nicely thought out and made piece of kit. Really stoked to drill some skis with it.
Thanks MottN!
Attachment 479492
I just sent you a PM if you're still printing...Quote:
Originally Posted by MottN
Attachment 479805
Finally got this thing printed up and put together. This looks like it will make mounting much quicker and easier, thanks for make the files available. I couldn’t get the friction clamp to work but I think I can get by without them.
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
I normally use some d clamps in addition to the friction clamp, but it's still much faster and easier than the paper template.Quote:
Originally Posted by troth
Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
I assume you mean that the black knobs lock the green knobs from turning?Quote:
Originally Posted by troth
This design has always been pretty sensitive to size of the green knob's shaft, which is certainly a little bit of an issue. I updated the files a couple months ago to increase the size of that shaft to make the fit consistently tighter, and it helps for the parts I print but probably not a universal fix. I'm sure there is a somewhat easy way to fix this issue and I'll put some thought into it at some point.
You can always scale that part up a bit in x and y and the mating gear similarly. There should be a little clearance in the gear racks so that it won't hurt the function.
Someone commented on the printables files that they put some fibergrip in that interface and it supposedly worked well to increase friction, so that might be the easiest fix.
If you have some grippy rubber on the clamp jaws you don't need much locking force to keep the jig from moving around, then as fleaches said, clamps for peace of mind.
Thanks for the suggestions. I will probably just use a few clamps for now, if that becomes to fiddly I will look at making those updates. I put some mastic tape on the clamp which seems to work but Im going to try the grippers printed in TPU since I don't have much experience with this material and it sounds like a good excuse to play with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by MottN
Yeah the TPU is better than nothing, I use rubber tubing when I make them which i feel is quite a bit grippier.
These days I am using this tube (12mm x 16mm), and an side gripper jaw that is sized a little differently to fit it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TD53QB1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
I should update the printables page to include that information too.
I picked up MottN's jig and used it for an ATK mount, and Tyr mount. Man, super money! So much easier and less stressful
My jig arrived yesterday and will hopefully get used to drill 3 pairs of skis before the end of the weekend. It all seems intuitive and is a nice addition to the tool kit.