Little extension piece bolts onto the fork to pull the brake pads further from the wheel allowing more space for a larger rotor.
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Little extension piece bolts onto the fork to pull the brake pads further from the wheel allowing more space for a larger rotor.
Any reason not to buy a very very lightly used sb130 from a friend? My current MTB is a full on hog. This is my 4th season on this bike. I have slowly tricked it out for enduro racing, but honestly don't think I will do a single race this year. It's a small Knolly Warden Carbon with push coil, DVO Diamond, wide Ibis 741/742 wheels, TRP Quadiem brakes, cush core and Michelin Wild Enduro tires (heavy but fucking amazing). It's 35 pounds right now. I need something a little lighter that I can still push hard on DH, but also go ride 30+ miles with my friends and not die pushing an extra 5 pounds around.
Is there a lot of overlap between these bikes? Every review kind of implies that the sb130 "feels" like a much longer travel bike, but climbs way better.
I think my biggest concern is coming from a very stout bike I will be underwhelmed or pushing the lighter bike too hard and wish I could go faster.
This will undoubtedly happen. Or you WILL go faster on it, and break a bunch of shit. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
I often just make spacers out of nesting washers (ubiquitous on v-brakes and some SRAM/AVID disc brakes) and longer bolts. Never had one slip and cause a problem in 15 years.Quote:
Originally Posted by meter-man
Yeah, that's mostly just there to indicate that you've got the arm on far enough before you tighten the pinch bolts. You'll be fine without it.
The Shimano manual states 6-7 nm. I usually go by feel and can't imagine I've tightened it more than 5 nm.Quote:
Originally Posted by Canada1
It'll be hard to resist making it beefier as opposed to lighter. But I have some friends that really like that bike. But... it's a Yeti, so they may be blinded by the brand.Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
Friend that's selling it has been riding hard for 25+ years. He's the real deal and has no brand loyalty. It's his son's bike who got injured last year and by the time he can ride hard he will need to go up a size anyway.
Sweet! Thanks Hubbs!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
Next up -- face-melting brake deceleration
Last weekend I was down on the front range of colorado riding trails that shall remain nameless and hall ranch. It rained on and off all day and my bike was making a little creaking noise. All dried out now and no creak to speak of. I was wondering though, should I strip some stuff down and check/clean/lube?
If so, what should my list be?
SC Megatower with fresh bb.
you can't be part of the tribe anymore ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
I used to spend a lot of time trying to get calipers aligned properly, then I spent a few bucks and got these: http://www.birzman.com/products_2.ph...&cID=4&Key=133Quote:
Originally Posted by TrueNorth
Using these actually makes is so you can just squeeze the lever and retighten the bolts, without needing to move the caliper manually to align it.
In my experience, that's a great way to introduce a creak. If it's not making any noise, and nothing is loose, just clean it off and ride it.Quote:
Originally Posted by grskier
oh wow i had no idea this was an actual thing!Quote:
Originally Posted by meepmoop24
ive been using this folded up lift ticket as that tool for the past 9 years haha
Attachment 335711
Been using those for a few years. Highly recommended.Quote:
Originally Posted by meepmoop24
This was the issue. Hit it hard with some 800 grit. Hopefully I took off enough. Shame on me for not recognizing it after the first cable!!Quote:
Originally Posted by g_man80
Thanks for this! Just ordered it off amazon. Aligning calipers is a pain.Quote:
Originally Posted by meepmoop24
Re SB130 - it’s a superb bike. Climbs very well, fast, and capable on descents. Switch infinity is great IMO. I think it does act like it has more travel than 130mm, maybe more like 140ish (similar to my SB5.5). Only thing I didn’t like about the bike was the super low bottom bracket, we have a lot of rocky trails here + rocky technical climbs which = annoying pedal strikes. Overall bike feels kind of XC like but a lot more travel
If your friend is willing to help you with any frame warranty claims down the road if they pop up I’d say go for it. I’d imagine you’ll be blown away by how much better it climbs and how much faster the bike will be for you than your old one
" All frames 2019 or newer, including the Switch Infinity link, are covered for life against damage due to manufacturing defects for the original purchaser. "
I played with preload a bit on the 5.5, it didn't seem to matter how much air in the shock it kind of rides the same
usually I just leave the shock open all the time but yesturday I closed it for the climb and forgot about it during descent, didn't really notice it till the bottom and it still rode pretty good
On long climbs I’ll move the shock to firm position, does help in my experience. It’s not really locking out the shock though.
Original purchaser is key word for warranty. So if the frame breaks and his friend is willing to help send it in for warranty claiming it’s his bike then that removes the only real downside of buying used. Maybe not a totally honest move, but I kind of think it’s BS for warranties to only apply to the original owner. Same as a car, your warranty should be guaranteeing the quality of the product, not be an added benefit of being the original owner. Not that Yeti has good history of honoring warranties anyways...
Ripmo is finally built and ready to go, Fox 36 factory, X2 factory shock, XX1, Code RSC, Roval Carbon rims. Will be comparing back to back with my SB5.5 this weekend, loser gets put on pink bike. Pretty stoked, Geo feels perfect for me so far with the riser bar.
Attachment 335778
right missed that^^
5.5 might be getting on in age might be time to move it on ?
both are great bikes, my buddy the shop guy once told me " pink bike wrote the top bikes are SC/ yeti/ Ibis and we sell all 3 "
Anyone else ever deal with rattling pads in a SRAM Guide caliper? I know this is a thing people complain about with finned Shimano pads, but I can't find much about it with Guides. Its loud enough to be heard while riding at pace, and sounds (and even feels) like a loose pivot bolt. I've "confirmed" its the pads because anytime I'm even lightly dragging the brakes over bumps, it doesn't make the sound. I saw two suggested fixes: bend the pad retainer spring thing to make it go away (did this, helped briefly but I'm guessing the metal has a memory and it reverted) or ride the bike long enough for dirt/gunk to build up in the caliper and cease the rattle that way. The second option makes sense, but I'd really prefer something that doesn't take an indeterminate, and likely lengthy, amount of time.
So... thoughts?
pack it with grease?Quote:
Originally Posted by radam
Maybe swing by a shop and see if you can bum a different pad retainer. I think a retainer that's properly formed should prevent the rattling. I'm guessing you just got a shitty one.
The latch on my ancient toolbox broke putting me in the increasingly less comical situation where I forget, grab it by the handle, and spill everything out of my toolbox breaking several toes. On the plus side, I’ve gradually been paring it down removing useless items.
Anybody got a suggestion for a decent, portable toolbox? Doesn’t need to be big, but some sort of organization system would be nice, with compartments for small items. The stackable Dewalt boxes look like they could work, but are kinda pricey when you start combining pieces.
ETA, I may have already asked this. See above for an example of how well I remember things.
Kind of a tough question to answer unless you have ridden a shit ton of different bikes:
I am on a 2017 Knolly Warden Carbon 155mm rear/160 up front. Built up full enduro race sled style. Push coil, Quadiem brakes, 741/742 wheels with hefty tires + cush core, etc. 35 pounds. It's a fun bike but you REALLY need to get it up to like 25 mph before it comes alive.
Friend wants to sell me a 2020 sb130. C1 build. Very light use. No brainer price.
Ideally I want something that is still fun that I can also go do 40 maybe even 50 mile day rides with. 7000' climbing days. Is the sb130 (this one currently weighs 30.5 pounds and if anything it will get heavier when I upgrade a couple parts) as "do it all" as everyone says or is it to meant like you can do a 7 mile dentist out and back or a 15 mile loop. I feel like most kooks who are into big long rides are doing them on true XC bikes.
Does that make any sense? If I really want to ride that long of rides or be competitive (stava nerd) on uphills do I need to hold out for like a sb115 or silimar?
I know I am overthinking this. I just don't want to spend a bunch of money on a bike that has too much overlap with my current bike. 5 pounds and 25mm of rear travel is quite a gap though.
Has anyone ridden both of these bikes?
Just out of curiosity as I’m debating a 130 as well, what price did he offer you?? Feel free to PM if you don’t want it public. Just wanna see what they are going for.Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
I also wonder how “ do it all” it is as well. Currently have a gen 1 Bronson and I am wondering if the 130 can supplement / replace that.
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I9 hydra hubs, are they worth the $?
The crown race seems really tight. How or would you force this on? (Fox fork)https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...6d913e526a.jpg
There are a couple of techniques if you don’t have the right tool. I have had success using the method of using the pre-load top cap to coax it on (using lots of grease), but sometimes all you end up doing is pulling the star nut up.
Do you have access to some PVC?
Yes, I have PVC pipe. That was kind of what I was thinking, but I'm a wee bit scared of fn shit up.Quote:
Originally Posted by rideit
That looks pretty normal. Smash that on with a pvc pipe. Just make sure the pvc is hitting the metal part of the race and isn't bungling up the seal at the edge.Quote:
Originally Posted by jackstraw
Strava nerd here. I've been pining forreal XC bike on occasion as well, but so far the Ripley is working for fairly frequent rides in the 50-70 mi range. I can usually squeeze into the top 10 on long climbs, but I think it would be a lot easier on a 22# bike. However, on those same rides I'm also sometimes doing top 5 DH times, and that wouldn't happen on the XC bike, our at least it wouldn't be fun.Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
Prior to this I had a Trance which I'd put a longer shock on to give it 157mm of travel. It really smoothed out the chunky stuff, but I don't think I was actually faster on it. Obviously it was much slower uphill. I've ridden a Warden, and I think that its really active suspension must be sucking energy, especially in hour 6.
Basically every time I think about it critically, I realize I'm in my mid forties and am riding for fun, so sacrificing fun and safety on the down isn't worth it for a couple % on the up. The 25 year olds will still prob be faster. For me the 120mm bike with good tires on wide rims seems to be the perfect balance.
But, you know, N+1.
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1.5" PVC as others mentioned. Make sure the "setting end" of the PVC is cut flush and smooth. Make sure you're race is on the right way, those Cane Creek ones kinda look like they can go the other way.Quote:
Originally Posted by jackstraw
Or a flat head screwdriver with a big blade, tap alternating sides to make it go down evenly.
Or a trip to the bike shop and ask them to to smash it on for you.
If you're scared... watch this:
get the race warm & put the fork in the freezer
Yeah, fork in the freezer and race in the oven (careful not to melt the seal), then pound away. Or just get a headset with a split race.
probably be OK with hot water but the oven might melt the seal
Any race is a split race if you have a Dremel and you ain’t a bitch!Quote:
Originally Posted by teledad
(Caveat: I haven’t actually tried this...)
Hope crown races are split. Just plop it on and go. I wish others would do this.Quote:
Originally Posted by rideit
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FSA does that as well. They creak and the headsets won't stay tight.Quote:
Originally Posted by HankScorpio
I would never purposely own a headset with a split race. Setting / removing regular races isn't difficult.
I haven't ridden either of those bikes, but my last all-day ride bike was 145f/135r travel and weighed 29 pounds. Many long rides (50 to 120 miles) with lots of vert (5 to 15k feet). Won a 24 hour XC duo race on that bike and an enduro race.Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
New rig is 140f/120r, and while it is definitely quicker on the uphills, I am probably going to miss the comfort and capability factor on the way down. On paper, the SB130 seems like the perfect bike, but at 30.5 pounds and rising...that might be too much for the all-around crown.
My guess is it won't replace a 150mm to 160mm bike if you are still planning on sending. But it sounds like you might keep the Knolly?