I think its not just about the protection but about maintaining a professional attitude so chaps/ gloves/ helmet with eye pro/ear muffs/ high vis/ caulk boots/ saw properly maintained and nothing bad happened
Printable View
I think its not just about the protection but about maintaining a professional attitude so chaps/ gloves/ helmet with eye pro/ear muffs/ high vis/ caulk boots/ saw properly maintained and nothing bad happened
I’ve had to manage bad chainsaw cuts in the field way back when. Worst wound out there - ripped flesh filled with dirt, bar oil, and wood dust. Have I run saw without cut protection? - Yup, and feel naked every time I’ve done it.
I have both falling pants for all day work, and a set of chaps for the short occasional use. I’ve only knicked them a couple times, and only once enough to seize the drive with the fibres. Worth every penny. Fatigue at the end of a long day of swinging a big saw is the usual culprit of saw injuries - experience has little to do with it.
I only recently started wearing eye protection when using an angle grinder and still weld in flip flops now and again, despite almost 30 years of seeing small tool amputations and other soft tissue trauma.
I’m older/marginally wiser. I can’t imagine getting a big tibial chainsaw laceration and getting wood chips and bar oil ground into my tibia.
this ^^ at least if you felt naked you had an extra awareness
and I forgot carry the compression bandage in an easily accessible pocket with either hand but not in the helmet
Even with pants/chaps the saw can still give a nasty bite. One of the cuts I’ve witnessed was in the back of the thigh where most chaps/pants have no coverage. Guy was end of day tired, was making a horizontal cut on a juvenile tree being thinned, and hit the kickback zone. Forward hand wasn’t in place to catch the chain break, and saw whipped right around him and bit into the back of his thigh. Not sure what hurt more, the injury, or riding a couple dozen kms out of the woods on shitty forestry roads in the back of the crummy on his stomach. Dude was pretty pale with a shade of green by the time pavement was reached.
I'd say I'm about an 90% rate of wearing chaps, steel toes, hard hat.
I get lax if it's like 3 or 4 cuts and done sort of work. Prior to my wearing them fairly regularly I did get bit for 12 stitches about 5in above my knee
Super lucky it didn't go very deep and hit muscle. Good wakeup call.
Thats ^^ everybody I seen in Bali, a guy in flipflops/ running an angle grinder/ while smokin a dart/ noQuote:
Originally Posted by Trackhead
hearing protection/ no head gear
its also the 3rd world you know la
Or stumbling over uncleared brush when falling or bucking. My close calls anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by BCMtnHound
Thats why i liked the superiour traction of caulk boots but those were fucking heavy which of course makes you more tired
those Dunlop purofoots have a safety toe, are not caulks but the knobby patterned ureatahne rubber had good traction
Like my Dad used to say (he ran cotton gins pre-OSHA), “Give me a couple of Okies and a come-a-long, and we can do anything.”Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
So was/ is oklahoma the 3rd world ?Quote:
Originally Posted by irul&ublo
I was stick bitch for a couple of survey gigs in one day they were really small jobs but we still had to get the whole safety thing on both jobs which took longer than the shots we were taking but i got paid eh
When are chainsaw chaps coming out that work for all those e-saws?
Attachment 479979Quote:
Originally Posted by bodywhomper
Supposedly, e-saws have too much torque for the fibers in chainsaw chaps to stop the chain at full throttle. My understanding is even the big gas saws will bind-up at full throttle and the chain (and cog/sprocket) will stop, even at full throttle. So the hospital cases observation from trackhead about most incidents involving homeowners could(?) get worse as more homeowners use e-saws.
Felled our Xmas tree a few days ago (Doug fir)
Attachment 480002
Interesting about e-saws and torque/injury potential. Haven’t seen a chainsaw injury for several years, but most of them are memorable.
In the sticks around Bakersfield in the 60s and early 70s, those Okies could be pretty closeQuote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
The e-saw thing doesn't make sense to me. I've used about 4 different flavors ranging from DeWalt to one of stihl's pro models. None of them have come remotely close to gas saw torque. All this based on gut assumptions and no real world testing, but I just don't see it. Most homeowners will get a big box store brand. I love my little 20v DeWalt for climbing trees and small work loads, but there's no way it's going to out-murder my 462 if I start trying to remove a leg, chaps or no.
Sent from my SM-S918U1 using Tapatalk
I had a guy last month that was cutting limbs on a ladder with one of those top handle arborist saws. I don’t know how he did it but he cut through the limb and right through his first and second metacarpal. He’s got three fingers now.Quote:
Originally Posted by Trackhead
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
“The fibers will not stop the sprocket on most electric chainsaws because of their constant high torque.”
https://www.echo-usa.com/personal-pr...chainsaw-chaps
Maybe it’s CYA….
So that sent me down a rabbit hole regarding chaps and e-saws. Seems like lots of company caveats and the like, and not enough formal testing to set benchmarks. Main considerations is no clutch for e-saws, and assuming the trigger remains on, torque increases as the snarled chain slows. Which may force the chain to continue some fwd momentum. Most videos seem to show the tip binding more than the drive sprocket when Kevlar fibres run through the system. Given the lack of a clutch, when the power is shut off, e-saw chains stop much sooner than gas though.
Still would wear chaps with an e-saw seems to be the professional consensus.
I'll take "what are torque curves" for $100, Alex.
2 strokes produce their highest torque at some point in their powerband (it's usually not at max RPM but a bit below). As the engine bogs down, the torque drops. Keep going, keeps dropping.
Electric motors produce constant (or near constant) torque. There is very little or no curve, and if there is, the peak torque is at the lowest RPMs. So as the RPM slows, the motor might actually produce MORE torque but it certainly won't drop.
So yeah, makes sense that they might behave a little differently when they hit a material that's designed to bog an engine down.
Isnt it all academic cuz what home owner wear chaps or any protection ?Quote:
Originally Posted by bodywhomper
and don't get me started on saw maintenance
Attachment 480020Quote:
Originally Posted by bodywhomper
My little Milwaukee e-saw is noticeably torquey compared to my gas saws. Less torque than at full gas, but the torque comes on instantly. If it's pressed up against wood at a stop and you pull the trigger, it'll start chugging through that wood easier than any gas saw I've used. I can see how that'd be problematic for chaps.
Or when unfortunate folks come in with work gloves on and you take the gloves off and dump the digits out….thud thud thud onto a chux.Quote:
Originally Posted by MagnificentUnicorn
Had a Hearthstone Castleton installed a week ago. Qualifies for the $2k fed rebate. Love this thing. The thick soapstone takes a while to get warm, but really heats our 1700sq/ft quite perfectly. Expensive but worth it. Nice to not hear the furnace running all day long.
Attachment 480046
Been off the board for a bit. Jump on and start reading backwards and wondering why all the safety gear talk to then see you all are talking about me for fucks sake.Quote:
Originally Posted by MagnificentUnicorn
Will this all make you feel better?
Attachment 480608
There are strings to a grant we got and one being PPE. I bought a pair of the snap in Labonsville chaps and they are pretty nice. Can either buy the Key pants from Madsen’s with the snaps or just hook them over the bachelor buttons for the suspenders. We were working by the road in the fog that day so hi viz was a no-brainer. I am also wearing corks because I had to walk the log to cut it.
Am a safe now? I would hate to be expected to go full Euro including put an 18in bar on my 93cc saw.
Merry Christmas all you mag degenerates. No shooting your eye out!
Ps. Ladders and all power saws, electric, arborist top handle, are a no fucking go.
PPs. Here are grandpa’s rules to staying alive and UN-mangled from decades of falling old growth with only a tin hat and corks. 1. Keep thumb wrapped around the handle bars. 2. Don’t cut above the shoulders 3. Watch your tip (or was that the advice he gave me from being in service port in Singapore? Either way still good advice) 4. “Get that saw off your fucking shoulder” when walking
This guy on the Gram is hilarious.
This scans, about what my pop would advise.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hood26
One thing that I always thought was weird growing up was that my family of loggers always wore those fuzzy cotton gloves in the woods. I figured out that those are still grippy when wet and they’re cheap so you just toss them when they get holes. Leather is slick when wet and expensive relatively.
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
One of the fallers on Insta posted a video of tossing the cotton gloves into the face of a falling tree to ring out the water. The comments were hilarious. Shit like it was dumb to wear cottons and they needed to wear the cut proof or leather and blah blah. I was thinking to myself, what’s next we shouldn’t wear hickory shirts?
You are exactly right on why cotton are better. All my folks ever wore too. Maybe a pair of cheep wool gloves from army surplus when super cold. I wear the rubber dipped for firewood handling, but if I am only running a saw or axe I like cotton or none.
Oh and I gotta ask the BC folks. Why are the trucks always overloaded? Let’s be all safety safety in BC but then a truck rolls out of the mountains stacked 5 meters over the sticks with the biggest log on top seeming unbound? I am scared enough meeting our trucks in the woods. Couldn’t imagine one of them barreling down on me looking like they are ready to roll.
Pretty accurate and definitely funny. And fuzzy cotton gloves ftw.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hood26
These for gloves: https://www.uline.com/Product/Detail...iABEgLeKPD_BwE
Sent from my iPad using TGR Forums
#notafeller
Biggest thing I’ve felled in a while. Had a bit of a back lean towards my well house, which was about 5 feet away.
Attachment 481199
Attachment 481200
But really it just needs to start snowing!
Or be a real winter high pressure with clear skies and low humidity (so that I can do some burns). I listened to a whole huberman podcast today while putzing, cutting new containment lines, and felling and bucking that tree.
Rotten snag. Very thick hinge
Attachment 488673
Nice job. That crappy hinge wood would have been nervous-making.
Thx. Felled with a mild lean and followed the lean regardless of the asymmetry of the hinge. 5” hinge wood on one side for an 18” diameter stump. I got out of the way and behind a nearby tree as soon as it started to move.
Random question for you guys:
I have a bunch of big chunks of bark, pulled off of rounds that I split. I'd like to chip it / grind it down into small chunks. I don't have a chipper, and this project isn't big enough or important enough to rent one. Anyone got any ideas on how to efficiently chip up bark?
Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
Maybe dumb but if it’s brittle enough, try spreading it out and driving a truck on it.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
no
A spade shovel and a barrel?
Otherwise— just lay it on the ground where you want it and let it rot.
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums