The PI Liner bibs are great for shorter rides. Like Jamal said they're a mid level chamois so they may be so-so for longer saddle times if you have a mere mortal taint.Quote:
Originally Posted by jamal
I'm 5'11"/175 and a large fits perfect.
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The PI Liner bibs are great for shorter rides. Like Jamal said they're a mid level chamois so they may be so-so for longer saddle times if you have a mere mortal taint.Quote:
Originally Posted by jamal
I'm 5'11"/175 and a large fits perfect.
in my younger days I just wore road bibs under shorts and t-shirt for rides of any length but as I got older and fatter and less in shape I found them less comfortable and wanted a more breathable option so switch over to mesh + chamois liner shorts.
Now it sounds like there are more comfortable and breathable bib options that are specifically designed for mtb as liner bibs. And lots of them have stash pockets. Gonna try a pair of these from 7mesh - looks like I can also use them at fetish conventions.
Thank you experts for pointing me in this direction.
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"Foundation Bib Short
Constructed with an airy, open mesh and a unique Force platform chamois finished with a front cut-away to relieve heat build up around sensitive areas, Foundation drives massive amounts of airflow, all while laying down a level of comfort equal to 7mesh standalone bibs.
For extended expeditions, Foundation features three large back pockets to complement storage on the bike and free up space in your outer short’s pockets."
Attachment 331761
FWIW the Assos bibs aren't mesh, but whatever space age material they use is extremely cool and wicking even under baggies.
Any advice on finding this part anywhere? https://www.clearybikes.com/collecti...ktro-brake-set
All of the similar-looking ones I can find have an arm length of 102mm rather than 95mm. This is frustrating because the only thing broken is the metal catch on the top left (sorry, I am a bike maintenance hack and I don't know what anything is called), which is riveted on.
These look similar, but not identical...and the price is right? https://www.amazon.com/Tektro-930AL-...-goods&sr=1-10
Random: if my resinous memory serves correct, Specialized has a patent on cargo bib pockets that are not attached at the bottom. Pearl experimented with that design when originally developing the mtb bib liners, but couldn’t use it.
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V-brakes are pretty damn simple. Even the cheap ones work ok-ish. The springs often require a little bending to get the brakes to sit centered.Quote:
Originally Posted by RootSkier
Unless you're tight on clearance, I wouldn't think a 7mm difference in the length of the arms would make a huge difference. Maybe a slightly different lever feel?
Is the pad location along the V brake arm different? Sized for kid size wheels? IDK.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Yeah, I guess that's a good point. But most v-brakes have ~25mm of pad height adjustment, so I'd think a 7mm difference in arm length wouldn't matter. But I haven't messed with kid's v-brakes in a long time, so maybe I'm full of shit.Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
Is there anything special about Shimano shift clamp bolt? I bought an XTR setup for a new build, with EV mount before I realized it was incompatible with match-up clamps to other company brakes. So I got the overpriced Shimano XTR conversion kit to change the EV-mount shifter into a clamp mount shifter ($30ish for the clamp and a flimsy plastic cover to the shift pod)... and it didn't include the fucking bolt to tighten the clamp. Shimano tech doc states this is an M5x13.5 bolt. Just wondering if there's any weirdness about it, or if any old M5x13.5 that strikes my fancy will do.
Pretty sure they're normal M5 SHCS. You're not going to find a 13.5mm long one, but you can probably get away with a 12 or 14mm. Grind a 14mm down if you're really OCD.
Any bolt should work, ime
Dremel tool ftw
If you scroll down to the product description it says the arms on those are 95 mm. Tektro's website backs that up (http://www.tektro.com/products.php?p=186) so those should work fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by RootSkier
The exact model on Cleary's site appears to be the Tektro J310 (http://www.tektro.com/products.php?p=164). It doesn't appear to be available on Amazon, but Frog sells them: https://www.frogbikes.com/Tektro-Alu...-Tadpole-Black
Not sure if you need front or rear, but v-brakes aren't actually F/R specific. They just put the pads in one direction for the front and the opposite direction for the rear. So, if you need a front, switch the pads around and you're GTG.
Awesome, thanks guys. The 4-year-old has been relentless since this broke at the campground on Sunday.
is it hard to replace a fork yourself? I have a replacement fork, just need to cut it and install it. pipe cutter and a file and it seems straightforward enough, any gotchas I’m missing? measure twice etc
Removing the crown race from the old fork can vary from trivial to impossible without damaging the crown race. Many modern headsets use split crown races that make it easy, but sometimes you get a really bad fork / crown race combo that just won't come apart. In that case it can be worth getting a crown race remover, having a shop remove it, or just buying another crown race.Quote:
Originally Posted by mall walker
To remove a crown race, I usually start by tapping in a utility knife blade with a hammer, then get larger and larger (non-serrated old butter knife, then flathead screwdriver). That seems to do a good job without making much of a mess.Quote:
Originally Posted by nick_B10
Like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LnBC5CEdgi8
To re-install, I used to tap it on with a flathead screwdriver, but having a section of scrap PVC pipe I can use to tap on the crown race has made my life a lot easier.
You will also need to install a star nut, which is easier with the right tools. But I've also bodged it using a socket, like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2web0rlrX8
Use a hacksaw to cut it, not a pipe cutter. Pipe cutter can leave a flange on the tube. Assuming you don't have a saw guide, put a piece of tape around the tube to help you keep your cut straight-ish.Quote:
Originally Posted by mall walker
I just buy a new crown race... they’re like $12.
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ThisQuote:
Originally Posted by nickwm21
And file it smooth when you are done.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Also, the Park headset race setting tool is one of my favorite tools ever. I love mine. It makes a challenging job so simple and it’s just super satisfying to use for some reason.
I recommend investing.
Why buy a $12 race when you can spend $85 bucks on a tool? Always buy the tool man!
I've had good luck with a pipe cutter and a small amount of filing.
That's what I do. The pipe cutter does leave a little lip, but it's so much less work than a hacksaw that it's net easier, even with a little filing afterwards.Quote:
Originally Posted by D(C)
Even more so if you've got air tools and a die grinder.
Use what you got, either will work. File it down to remove the sharp edge and fix the inevitable angle on the cut.
If the steerer is carbon (road bikes) put tape around where you’re going to cut to minimize fiber fraying.
There won't be an angle with a pipe cutter.Quote:
Originally Posted by teledad
The main thing with the cutter, especially if the cutting wheel is dull, is to tighten the cutter gradually as you work. Too fast and you can get a bulge at the end of the tube. Use the reamer on the cutter to clean the rough lip inside of the tube.
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You can also use a stem (or pair of stems) as a saw guide. Almost like they were made to clamp onto a fork steer tube.
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