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The pros would trace the template with a paint pen and go at it with the 7" grinder holding the shop vac at the same time.
I don't think the 4.5" grinder will cut 3cm before hitting the arbor. And the only time to use the guard in when running the wheel of death.
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Wheel of death
Yep.
I’ve seen granite sink cutouts done on site with a hole saw for the corners and a grinding wheel for the straights.
And no shroud. And fortunately no death shroud.
It can be done. Any cooktop that’s top mounted will hide a lot of diy sins
If you cut without a shroud just think about where the pieces fly when it destructs.
This is more of a venue set up question than home remodel, but nonetheless...
Need to set up about 5 long strands (75-125') of cantina lights in a back yard. One side is going to be fixed to the house, so that's easy. The other side needs to be strung up about 11' high to achieve the right sag. That's pretty high, and there's a decent amount of weight involved given those spans. I've been mulling over this for a few weeks and while I have a couple ideas really haven't gotten anywhere.
Open to ideas for what would be the most practical/economical way to anchor whatever is holding up the lights.
I've thought about:
- getting some large planters/barrels and setting 4x4s with quikrete.
- renting a post hole digger/auger and setting the 4x4s in the ground, either with just dirt or quikrete
- hand digging about 2' and using some guy wires to soil anchors
- for posts, I've thought about 4x4s, metal poles, tree stakes seem to be too short, tposts aren't made long enough. Seems 16' 4x4s are the best/cheapest option
#2 (auger) but use crushed rock instead of either dirt or concrete. Is this just for 1-2 days? The 4x4s may deflect, which probably doesn't matter for a day or two, but if it's longer, some guy wires might be helpful and it will be entertaining to watch drunkards trip over them.
Keep a lookout for a fencing crew in the neighborhood and offer the laborers $100 to drill the 5 holes. It will take them about 5 minutes.
My gut says planters or barrels filled with quikrete might not be heavy enough to keep the weight of the lights from tipping them over.
How permanent is this installation supposed to be?
4 feet is code for frost freeze.
This is non structural. So fuck code.
You could make footers and pour concrete but why? Yeah. Long spans of wire. But it’s not much load. So you could go all in and pour footers or bury the four by four in rock/gravel.
I would bury 3 feet with some gravel or quikcrete and see what happens five plus years later.
4x4 in good rock or concrete will last years. Decades more likely
Attachment 493649
Attachment 493651
This is 10’ long 1” black pipe set 2’ deep in quickcrete -- so, 8’ high +/-
Drill top for threaded eye bolts to hold cables
We used stainless cable as a back bone for hanging the string lights
^^^ winner
125’ spans? Good fucking luck. You can’t break that up?
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Awesome backyard.Quote:
Originally Posted by ::: :::
I’m doing the same thing, similar span, but quasi temporary and I have big trees to work with. A 16’ 4x4 set four feet in the ground with concrete will probably work, but not sure how permanently with no other structure. I bet they’ll look crappy in 3 years.Quote:
Originally Posted by east or bust
I missed that part…lolQuote:
Originally Posted by nickwm21
What if you pulled a Boy Scout teepee shape w/ (3) 1” dia black pipes 12’ long? One at the end of each run.
Single bolt at the top with rubber washers and oversized holes. Swing two legs away from the third making a tripod. Put an eyebolt in the bottom of each pipe. Use that eyebolt to drive a 3’ length of #4 rebar into the earth as an anchor. Hook the top of it to keep it held down.
Attachment 493666
Nice Box Cars! Can I pay you it explain to my fucking cabinet designer that the architectural detail need to be legible? She literally doesn't get it. She sits in here office with two giant monitor and casts the rendering to the the big screen so the customers can get wet and right the check. Then I get a 2 page design for $30k in cabinets. I texted her a photo of the electricians and me huddles over an tablet, trying to figure it out. Its not even workable in 24x36.
OK, back to the question. I think you need a tensioned cable. Think slackline or bridge. I think I'd try 2 bipods, 1/4 cable, whatever the cable u bolt thinks to make an eye are called, driven rebar or concrete stakes as anchors on both side and a ratchet strap to make it happen. If you are really smart you'll figure out someway to lift it all into position so you can rig it on the ground.
Just the opinion of guy who hates poured in place concrete for most thinks that are not foundations or patios. This sounds like a "honey, I want some lights in the back yard like the influencers have". You think Quickrete is a pain in the dick 80lbs at a time when its in a bag? You should see if when its 500lbs in a hole in the ground.
[Don’t get me started on cab shop dwgs]
Bipod shape frame with the wire pinned to the ground would work too
Just like a tent guy wire…
I may be over thinking this…. But you said the word “venue” and mentioned a span of 125’.
Get a structural engineer involved.
If electrical and poles come down on top of a bunch of people - the party is over.
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How about if we agree that a 125 foot span is not practical and economic and needs to be rethunk.
Cross post from garden thread.
The neighbors contractor cleaned out some paint buckets and rollers and dumped in my veggie garden. I've painted with water based acrylic latex hundreds of times and this smells different. Owner of the paint company swears it's water based. The GC agrees with me that it smells like lacquer. And that's 6 days and a couple heavy rainstorms later.
They've offered to dig a 5'x7' x 2' deep chunk out of there and replace with clean topsoil.
Debating the merits of playing nice and letting them do that vs getting the city or osha to slap them just for principle for lying to me. Seems like the later will be a lot of work, and the end result will be about the same.
Or am I just way over thinking this and you'd just plant your tomatoes there tomorrow?
This is Wyoming so we'll be doing some janky rigging. Any of you ever dug a hole in the Hole?
It's a motherfucker to go 4 feet here. And a 16' 4x4 needs at least that.
Augurs snap shear pins all day long here. Glacial rubble rules the valley, dirt's about 6-12" deep if lucky.
EoB, holla at me, you know I'ma injuneer for this kinda shite. Swing by this weekend, mag. I'll show yas the 75' cedar fence I just finished for the neighbor. There was some cussing for the post holes.
Ain't no fencers with free time for a handful of holes for a hundo. Even the Mex diggers know better. I paid $40hr 3 years ago to have 2 dudes dig about 20 holes 3' deep and it took 3 days and about $12-1400 labor. It was money well spent.
Find me EoB, I'll help you get hitched all proper...
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@Rideski - It should be easy to find out what the product was. Lacquer is damn obvious as the chem smell is strong. I love it.
Latex would be easier on the veggies but at the end of the day your plants will be affected. I'd get the dirt out and refilled with good dirt. If they're gonna fix it, make sure they don't refill it with some shitty weed filled dirt. Unless it's WEED dirt. Then OK.
1. Only 2’ deep and total 2.6 cubic yards sounds small, especially if that rain has migrated the paint further.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rideski
2. Betcha those fuckers have been doing this all over the place, not just your site.
If you have the energy, report them. At least get an independent professional assessment to make sure you are getting all the contaminated soil removed.
Other than them apologizing, and a pic of the paint spot, I don't have any proof they did it. I'd rather have the 2.6 cubic yards gone vs a legal fight I lose and have to remove it myself.
But, I do think tomato roots go 2' down. Not sure if it would make toxic tomatoes or not.
As a GC I agree that you should report them. Do the world a solid.
An apology and some actual remediation is more than one could expect. I'd run with that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rideski
Pouring out latex water is no big deal as long as it's super diluted; and always in an out of the way place. Ideally where more water will dilute it further.
And it should be unnoticeable to the eye.
10k ballpark for 1200 sq ft of asbestos tile removal. JFC.
Def not diluted, area is white with paint. And appears to be oil based which would tend to float.
the amount of tension needed on a span that size will be super high. So you will have steel wire at a super high tension, and then add in the weight of the string lights. And then add in the fact you are using an 11' tall moment arm on one side? Godspeed, my friend.Quote:
Originally Posted by nickwm21
You will want to add in multiple poles to break up the span, or you will want a 4' (min) bury depth with big ass concrete footing, and have the pole angled away. Use turnbuckles on either end at the anchor points so you can adjust tension as needed, and make sure your wire is big enough to handle the constant loading long term (it snapping under that load will likely cause some damage). Its all easy enough to do, but i certainly wouldnt want to do it without some machinery.