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I think a short list would be for 1x GRX from Claris:
Shifters
Calipers (might as well go hydro)
Cassette (get a 11-34 and it should fit)
1x front chainring
Bar tape
Chain
RD
I think it's only worth it if you find the process of piecing things together fun. You also could buy it with Claris, ride it 2000 miles then upgrade so you at least get some wear out of the existing parts.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Supermoon
Can you get GRX in non hydro? I didn’t see that option on their website
More of a WhatWouldMagsDo question:
Same frame, same price, both one-by:
GRX800 vs. Rival Xplr AXS.
If it was 2x, I’d prolly go with AXS for ease…but with 1 cable, it makes it less of a concern. AXS is neato… but Shimano is solidly reliable.
Compatibility is not a concern as I own no Shimano and only SRAM is on MTB.
Rival comes with schmancy carbon hoops…GRX is AL. Bikes are same $$$.
WHOOPS: Originally had it backwards: GRX comes with fancy carbon wheels...Rival w/ AL. (kinda a big change).
What would you chose?
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I've had GRX on previous bikes and my current gravel bike has 2x Rival AXS.Quote:
Originally Posted by smartyiak
I'm solidly in the AXS camp. It just works so well. The shifting is very intuitive, shifts are quick and accurate. The system is easy to adjust.
It also allows you to do things you wouldn't think of like shifting and braking at the same time. Works a treat. If you have 2x you can shift front and rear at the same time.
The downsides:
1. I have 100% left for a ride with a dead battery
2. The shape of the shift paddle combined with the long lever throw mean your bleed has to be on-point or you're pulling to the bars before you get max power from the brakes.
Yeah grx is hydralic brakes only, but other shimano shifters will shift a grx derailleur, you'll just have a useless set of shift paddles on the left side if it's 1x.
Sram makes everything in cable pull brake version, even the new 12s axs. It would be cheaper and easier to upgrade a bike with mechanical discs with a set of sram 1x shifters probably. I don't think there's much difference between the apex and rival shifters but the rival RD uses less plastic and is probably worth the slight extra.
Either will handle the same range cassette. for general use 1x you'll probably want something like 40 x 11-42.
I'm firmly in the GRX Di2 camp, but in your position I'd probably go with the AXS one. Electric shifting is just fantastic, and 1x means you'll only have one battery to keep track of (until the shifter batts die, but that's a while). If the carbon wheels' rims are 24+ mm IW, they are a nice upgrade.
I bought a couple sets of the new MT7 Pro brakes, and unfortunately Magura decided to do away with the reach-adjust dial in favor of a tooled adjustment. Interesting choice for a high-end brake set.
Has anyone created their own reach-adjust dial? I was wondering if there's a known solution with a specific thumb screw, or maybe the dial from old Magura brakes works as a replacement?
^ Just get some Oak Components levers.
https://oakcomponents.de/products/ro...a-bremssysteme
I think a couple of thumb screws might be a little cheaper.
Where's the fun in that?Quote:
Originally Posted by smmokan
having a makeshift thumb screw pop out and altering your reach on some brakes sounds pretty fun actually.Quote:
Originally Posted by XtrPickels
I'm guessing setting up brakes for clients is a level of service smmokan was looking to do in a few seconds as opposed to whatever it'll take now....
The Bite Point Adjuster Dial on the lever body? or the Reach Adjust Dial on the lever?Quote:
Originally Posted by smmokan
I have seen that that the MT7 Pro went away with the Bite Point Adjust dial in favor of one that is less likely to break in a crash, but have not seen the Lever without a dial.
We have SRAM brakes on our demos... this is just for my personal bike.
It's the reach-adjust dial - the new MT7 Pros have a tooled adjuster now: https://www.magurausa-shop.com/produ...2286&cat=11906
^^^ that's what my mt7's look like - no tool free adjust.
As a guy that's mostly been on sram's for a while now, I can't say I miss the tool free adjustments. I fiddle with them maybe once a month. Not a big deal to use a tool.
You obviously don't subscribe the the joys that are Shimano brakes...Quote:
Originally Posted by grskier
Local shop is going out of business and they are selling off all their shop tools/equipment. Any thoughts on what a fair discount relative to MSRP would be? Bunch of used Park Tool sets etc.
Guessing they purchased at pro form or worse case wholesale and tools are used.... so 70%off msrp ?Quote:
Originally Posted by MCS5280
Sent from my SM-S908U1 using Tapatalk
OK, I've got a brake question. I align my brake calipers carefully, check rotor true-ness visually. I can spin the wheel in the stand and it will be dead silent, no rub. But when I ride the bike down the street at moderate speed, I hear a kind of metallic "ting, ting, ting" sound from the front brake area. I'm running Dominion A4s with a 220mm HS2 rotor out front.
What's going on?
My guesses:
1) rotor is slightly untrue, and at higher speeds, it oscillates a tiny bit, and contacts the pads (less likely)
2) pads need the spring widened a tad more, and are a bit loose, and the vibrations of the road cause them to intermittently graze the rotor (more likely)
Do you tighten the axle on the ground with weight on it? Even with thru axles there's a little bit of play when things aren't tightened down and things can shift a bit.
Plus hubs and axles and fork legs all flex a bit. Like how you can lean a bike over when riding straight and get some brake rub. A bigger rotor will amplify all these little bits of movement as well.
What's the current recommendation for a cheap dropper post & lever? I'm jumping ship from a reverb but have been quite happy with the lever feel of the 1x lever. Post needs to be 30.9mm and 150-180mm of drop depending on post dimensions with the actuator and collar.
I like OneUps. They're reliable, they have pretty close to the lowest height per drop on the market, the weight is competitive, and they're cheaper than most of the reputable competition.Quote:
Originally Posted by John_B
Cheap AF, $95 shipped right now with the coupon. I have one. It's on the heavy side, but works fine. It developed a slow leak after several years of use, but it lasts months between fill-ups so doesn't really bother me, and if it gets annoying enough a new cartridge is something like $30-40.Quote:
Originally Posted by John_B
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/.../rp-prod184527
Less cheap, but worth it, IMO. ETA: What toast said!
https://www.oneupcomponents.com/coll...ropper-post-v2
That's the external version, which may or may not be desirable. Here's the internally routed ones:Quote:
Originally Posted by bagtagley
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/.../rp-prod159172
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/.../rp-prod149024
Brand X is still king for overall value. I've had one on my hardtail since 2020, still works a treat.
OneUp isn't really a cheap dropper anymore unless you already have a compatible lever, which John doesn't since he has a Reverb. By the time you add in a lever and clamp a OneUp is $300. But, OneUp can't be beat if you want 200+ mm of drop and/or the shortest possible insertion length.
I missed the boat on getting anything for my 19/V1 Megatower. So I've started putting money into it.
New bars
New brakes
Better pedals
new drivetrain (11-12 speed xt)
I'm using this bike as my long travel trail bike.. it's my only MTB right now. If anything I may add a down country-ish bike or cut my losses and replace with a 130/140 ish travel trail bike.... but that's like a year out.
I have a gravel bike I like riding from the house here, so it scratches that itch for now.
This year I was thinking of upgrading suspension.
Ideas -
Front end has a Fox 36 with a FIT 4 damper and it's set up 160mm travel.
Options:
Upgrade FIT 4 to Grip 2 Damper: $360
Change out Airspring to 170mm - this will update geo a bit, but make it more enduro-ish vs. trail ish. - $50
question 1 - Would I get away with a MRP Ramp Control Pro Cartridge instead of the Grip 2 Damper? - $180
If I can, I'd likely start looking at the back of the bike. Unlike many, I like the Super Deluxe Ultimate I have. many call it harsh, I like it as I ride enough flowy stuff I can pump and feel supported.
I have been happy with the SDG Tellis that came in my GG but wouldn't say it is much nicer than the Brand X I had before that. If cheap is your main concern that's the way to go.Quote:
Originally Posted by John_B