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One of us is either unlucky or doing something wrong. How can the preload adjuster loosen up? It's a locking clamp made out of solid aluminum. Tighten it down and it's not moving. Every CK hub I've ever had (probably 5-6) has been 2-3 rides to break in and then set-and-forget.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Then again, you can't get Shimano brakes to work for you either. :wink:
No idea. The clamping screw on the preload adjuster isn't loosening. But every few rides, the hub has noticeable side to side play, so presumably the preload adjuster is backing out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roxtar
But even if that wasn't a problem, they're still heavy and expensive.
To their credit though, I can at least depend on the CK's to loosen, whereas I can't depend on shimano brakes to stop.
Edit to add: Chris King also stopped making 6 bolt hubs. They're centerlock only now. So yeah, I'm done with Chris King.
I have a 2022 Zeb Ultimate with Luftkappe no butter cups. Feels great on small bumps and hand fatigue compared to before the Luftkappe.Quote:
Originally Posted by ticketchecker
2023 Lyrik, It's a great fork but I can't really say the Butter Cups blow my mind. I could be wrong but I feel the damper and air spring is the biggest improvement here.
I had a Fox 36 before the E version of the ZEB and I wondered if small bump compliance was better on the Fox ?
but I got no complaints really
Kid bike question. Daughter is over 3, 3 1/2 in the summer and has been on a strider for 2 seasons now and think we can move to a pedal bike. Coaster brake or no?? I forsee her become frustrated with the concept of the coaster but wondering what other dads ( or cool uncles) have done here.
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Coster brake is a bad habit/trait to move on from when you advance to the next hand brake only bike.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandbox
yeah I couldn't bring myself to make the child suffer coaster brakes! we went right to hand/disc brakes
I remember my first bike, around age 5, was a BMX style with coaster brake. I liked doing skids with it... but another vote for hand brake. I went rim brakes on my son's first pedal bike, plenty of power for his ability level at 4.
Oh yah I had a blast with coaster brakes as well but I didn’t learn on a balance bike either. I do feel it’s somewhat an antiquated idea now but I wasn’t sure if I was missing something. First time I’ve ever done this whole parent thing….
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Multiple CK hubs all required multiple preload adjustment among my riding crew w way more frequency than it should. Most of us on singlespeeds during that time. Regardless totally done, also Cane Creek headsets split collar worked better than CK, as soon as that patent expired CK and most others rolled that in. I was off the bandwagon by the time they rolled around bottom brackets.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
DT had started upping their game w 36 and then 54poe ring drives that are just solid and work. 240, 340, and 350s just work.
As for coaster will echo the comments, I did a coaster for my both kids when they were around 3/4 on 12”, but quickly put both on hand brakes on 16” wheels.
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Both. Both kids learned on the same SE Bronco which has a coaster and a hand brake. I was able to coach both of them into a hand brake while they still had the confidence that the coaster brake gave them. In the end they both found out on their own that they preferred the hand brake.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandbox
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Coaster brakes are deadly on the pump track too. Took my kids bike out on it one time and proceeded to eat shit in short order.Quote:
Originally Posted by Touring_Sedan
For sure they, we ride a lot of pump track as well as there is a good one really close to the house and my daughter loves it. Hand brake it is! thanks fellas.Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong
Thanks, Cap'n! Cable tension is dialed. I don't have the SRAM gauge; is it really necessary? I just tensioned up the B-screw until there was no contact. The chainring, chain and Garbaruk 10t-48t all went on new at the same time, and were quiet (despite Garbaruk saying you need their RD cage if you go bigger than 46t). The new GX derailleur should show up in a couple days. Got my fingers crossed that'll solve it, but if not, at least I'll have a spare.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roxtar
BTW, it was low 60's down at Red Mesa on Sunday. We should get down there for a ride sometime!
I'd get the gage. I have the 12 speed but not sure about 11. I'll check.Quote:
Originally Posted by NuMexJoe
11 and 12sp stuff is pretty picky with the b-tension. Perhaps try backing it out to see if it effects the noise. If so, start there.
Rose and I did White Mesa last Friday.
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...88#post6794388
I'm thinking about a Red Mesa day either this Friday or next. I'll keep you up to date.
Try increasing the B gap, see if it makes a difference in the noise. The SRAM plastic tool is pretty cheap, worth having as it makes setup fast. B gap should be set with rider weight on the bike, ie suspension sagged. Doesn't matter for hardtail obv.Quote:
Originally Posted by NuMexJoe
When you lubed the derailleur pulleys, what did you do?
Thanks, EC. I'll look into the gauge if Roxtar doesn't have one. For the pulleys, I just removed the dust cover, swabbed everything out and cleaned it up with isopropanol, and then re-lubed with waterproof wheel bearing grease.Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
Doubt it's in the pulleys, unless they're completely corn out (you'd see it).
Try a little more B gap, even without the gap tool. See what happens.
Proper B screw adjustment is pretty critical with 11 and 12 speed. Not like the old days when you could fudge it. Get the tool, it makes getting it right easy.
Found a good deal on Dominion A4s, so now switching to A4s.
I'm currently kind of stumped on the caliper mounting bracket. These are going on a modern Spec Enduro, so I know I need the post style, but there is one for 160mm and 180mm post mount size. Which one do I need?
Not done with the stupid questions... I've read that it's highly recommended you use their rotors, though is anyone running SRAM rotors? I'd love to keep my 220 up front but wouldn't have beef if I'd get better performance out of Hayes' 203.
Hope and NSB adapters fit the A4s well. If your Enduro has a 180mm post mount, you just need a 20 or 23mm one depending on 200 or 203.
I run my sets of A4s with SRAM HS2 rotors and they work great. I've got a 220 up front on the Zeb on the Ebike and that needs a specific Hope adapter (200-220), but they make a 180PM->220 adapter too.
I've run A4s on a couple bikes with Shimano rotors, Galfer rotors, and the Hayes rotors. Couldn't tell the difference. Once I've destroyed the stock of Shimano rotors I have on hand I'll switch to Galfer only, they seem to warp less, weigh less, and looks steezy AF.Quote:
Originally Posted by east or bust
It's confusing because on the Hayes website there are two measurements listed - a post mount and rotor size. What does the post mount measurement correspond to? When I looked it up my frame appears to have 180mm post mount front and rear, but how would one determine that without looking it up?Quote:
Originally Posted by Andeh
Those are bad ass.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
So let's say I order 2 180mm post mount 203mm rotor caliper brackets for the A4s, and plan to run a 223 Galfer up front and a 203 in the rear. Would I need to pick up some sort of 20mm shim for the front?
Galfer rotors are indeed pretty steezy and strong, but they do eat pads a bit faster than others, if that's a concern for you.
Curious as to why that might be, material, or just the additional thickness? (Which would be odd?)Quote:
Originally Posted by climberevan