You'd need to check in on the dynamite thread for that one.Quote:
Originally Posted by bodywhomper
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You'd need to check in on the dynamite thread for that one.Quote:
Originally Posted by bodywhomper
yeah that’s what we would have done on my crew in the past
BOOM
Like it’s a dead beached whale!!
we did that for dead horses in the backcountry as well
they call it “scatter burying”
It sounds like an excuse for boom-boom.... but a fun excuse! (Bring an umbrella!)
no it’s totally necessary
dead critters in the trail attract bears
Chainsaw! Lop and scatter :P
yuk
Well it is a chainsaw thread.... :P
Somebody around me is selling an older stihl 090 for $800. Claimed that it’s running great, but that it hasn’t been used since 2001. It was used as a ripping saw at that time. If somebody is interested, ping me and I can give contact info.
and we talk about the APPROPRIATE use of saws hereQuote:
Originally Posted by bodywhomper
Too funny. Chainsaw rips meat and shatters bone into shards leaving a kerf almost twice the width of the bar. Reciprocating saw is a much better tool for coarse butchery. Experience with both used on large animal backbones. With a chainsaw, the wire mesh face shield is no bueno. Rubberized rain gear and full face shield required.
dynamite works great
If anyone is looking for a spare bar and chains, especially for firewood cutting - I'm looking to clean some stuff out of the shop.
20" Stihl bar - used, but not abused. Maintained w/ lots of life left. 3/8" pitch, 0.05" gauge, 72 drive links. Scabbard included.
All four chains listed below are correct fit for this bar and require a round file for sharpening:
2 - Stihl Rapid Super (RS) - this is their full chisel chain. Cuts great, but not as fast as square ground. (1 chain NIB, 1 chain w/ 95% tooth remaining)
1 - Stihl Rapid Super Full (RSF) - this is their full chisel, full skip chain. Cuts pine really well, and most softwoods well. (NIB)
1 - Stihl Rapid Micro 3 (RM3) - this is their "low kickback" semi-chisel (85% tooth remaining)
$33 + cost of shipping? Less? Can send pics via email if anyone is interested.
That’s a killer deal.Quote:
Originally Posted by donetlynx
Just brought back my stepdads husky 50, it’s been hanging chain down for maybe 5 years unused. Put mix in but I can’t get it to turn over. Have spark and when I took the air filter off it’s putting off smoke as you try to turn it over so I think it has compression, it’s old, and dirty, so maybe this is a project where I need to strip it down completely and rebuild the whole thing.
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lots of info out there
https://www.arboristsite.com/communi...rna-50.195449/
I have a Husky Rancher 61, great saw. I bought it used 20 years ago, currently not running because the fuel line split and it's sucking air not fuel. Easy fix, I just have get to it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Phall
Buy a carb kit for it and clean/rebuild your carb, it's easy and fun for the whole family. I did mine 6-7 years ago.
If it's been sitting it might even be as simple a a stuck float.
Thanks all. Thing is filthy so I may pull all the plastics and actually dive into a full strip/rebuild for fun, unfortunately the stepfather is on his deathbed so may be a nice project to bring it back to life looking brand new
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That carb is probably gummed up from sitting that long. See if she'll fire on some starting fluid or raw gas sprayed right in the carb.
If she fires with direct application of go juice like ymjc suggests - Take a look at your fuel lines. They can gum up and or split over time.
Might just be a stuck needle in the diaphragm, at 0:40 here: https://youtu.be/xyOnjW_J_y8Quote:
Originally Posted by Phall
Might be able to get it unstuck without removing carb
If it starts on the squirt, I wouldn't bother with just one seal. Buy a kit, pull it apart and soak it overnight in carb cleaner. The welch plugs can be a bitch, but once you figure them out it's not too bad. Take pictures during disassembly. A carb took can help with the little o rings. I like the Tecumseh tool, LMK if you want to borrow it. I can drop it off on the way into work.
Speaking for me, I don't rebuild carbs anymore because they're cheap and I'm kinda lazy.
Just spray the fk outa it with carb cleaner. Get it through everything that has a hole. If you have a compressor blow it all out. Move the moving parts. Put it back together and go for it! If that doesn’t work you can choose to rebuild or purchase. It’s surprising what a good clean can do to an old carb.
In the process of tearing this bugger apart, first off, the piston ring is toast, so I have a new one of those coming. Carb is out and will give that the full cleaner /compressor treatment. Reassemble with new fuel line and filter, air filter is brand new, and see what happens.
Ok its time to replace my 30 year old saw, shes been a champ but sadly I must move on.
Quesotin is what saw? Seems like some serious knowldege in here. I am thinking either this one https://shop.husqvarna.com/us/chainsaws/455r
Or this one https://www.stihlusa.com/products/ch...v=BVSpotlights
What says the expert dentist/loggers?
IMO, between those two, it’s six of one, a half-dozen of the other. Both good homeowner units. Pick depending on which dealer is closer and/or better stocked - the dealer makes the main difference.Quote:
Originally Posted by teleee
XXX_er will be here in a moment to tell you to get a pro saw like the Stihl MS 261 or the Husky 534 XP, and he’s not wrong, but it depends on how much use you’re gonna give it. If you cut a few cords per year and clean up around the homestead, the ones you mentioned will be excellent. The more you use it, the more a pro saw will be a good choice. Again, go with the better dealer.
https://www.stihlusa.com/products/ch...al-saws/ms261/
https://www.husqvarna.com/us/product...-xp/967146202/
Damn I was hoping no one would talk me into going to the pro model. I am all about spending a little more for long term durability, although I am certainly in the few cords a year and home cleanup category .... But I expect this saw to be one of those end of life purchases....Quote:
Originally Posted by Meadow Skipper
Good advice on the best/closest dealer, I wasnt sure if there were any huge differences between the 2 brands, looks like nope!
I have had good experiences with the service department at Ace in your neck of the woods, they are a Husqy dealer. That was like 7 or 8 years ago though, fwiw.Quote:
Originally Posted by teleee
I was going to go talk to them, I know they sell Husqy and they are probably the best customer service store in our area.Quote:
Originally Posted by snowaddict91
you can look on their sites and compare stats,
I got the 261, Angle parking only got the 534 which are the comparable smaller pro models at about the same time and we run them 5-6 hrs at a time cutting ski run
you might consider going pro if you are gona run the saw hard
you are probably too old to wear out a pro saw
Lots of way more knowledgeable folks here then me. I've had that rancher prob 5-6yrs and cut round 3-4 cords a year, camp wood quite often, and some work use(carpenter). I've had no big issues and like the saw.
I have been thinking about adding a pro model stihl though(esp since new town only has stihl dealer).
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I've had the 455 Rancher for about 5 years. It runs like a champ. I've got the 20 inch bar which might be a bit of overkill but has come in handy.Quote:
Originally Posted by teleee
I had it out today cutting up about 25 feet of a huge pine that blew over this winter (portion the town did not take).
My only "complaints" are the chain oil reservoir leaks like a sieve - I'm told it was designed that way, and I wish it held 2x as much gas.
I always run it dry and it starts up with no issues.
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+1 on the 455
(Tho no oil problem here)
I like Husqy. They don’t change their shit, like side covers or mufflers, so often making it is easier to scavenge used parts. Even more so on pro models. I also don’t like how Stihls sound, but that’s probably a preference. They are higher pitched and whinier, even with earplugs, to my ears. But I don’t have much of an ear so it’s probably my bullshit perception.Quote:
Originally Posted by teleee
The best advice was already given. Go with whichever has a real dealer and repair shop closest by. Also, like gun safes, go with bigger than what you think you need.
I like longer bars and chains with bigger saws because I can run chisel bit chain, but I have access to a grinder and have several chains and don’t want to fuck around hand filling. However, if you don’t want to have a lot of chains or take them to be ground maybe a smaller chain of full comp is better for you because you can sharpen anywhere? I like longer bars because I am lazy and don’t want to bend over as far. I also like having a bigger saw because when wood hinting sometimes the bigger wood gets left behind by the folks with the smaller saws.
If I did talk you into a bigger saw, read your manual because it probably doesn’t want 50:1 Also, keep your tank full during storage and dump it before running it again if it’s been a while.
Also, try to buy the power head solo so you don’t have to have the heavier standard bar and crappier chain. Lighter bars make a big difference in how much energy you will expel and your cutting precision.
Save some budget for chaps and happy cutting!
Got the Husq 50 running, but went all willy nilly on the carb screws, now I can't get it to idle without the chain moving. Total beginner here.
there is usually an initial setting on a carb mixture screw like 1 1/2 turns out from fully seated ( gently) comes to mind ?
the other screw is just holding the throttle open to raise/lower idle, I have fiddled with idle a bit but made sure to not touch my mixture screw since new
Thanks for all the advice, I pulled the trigger on the Husqy 455 rancher, I stared long and hard at the pro model, but I just cant justify the extra coin for a saw I wouldn't utilize enough.
you’ll be happy with that saw
Forgive me if I’m being too basic here. There are basically three adjustment screws on the carb. Two are right next to each other and control the fuel mixture, one for low rpm and one for high rpm. The third screw controls the idle speed, and that is probably the one you want to adjust, backing it out a little.Quote:
Originally Posted by Phall
We can do a little primer on the low and high mixture screws if you want, but first we should make sure you’re working with the right one for idle speed.
This might help:
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/74...?page=3#manual
+1Quote:
Originally Posted by ~mikey b