Ask the experts

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Originally Posted by bagtagley

SRAM NX fits that description. Think there might be a cheaper one that’s SX level.

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Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs

SRAM PG 1230 11-50 or "NX"
and SRAM PG 1210 11-50 or "SX"

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Ok im not crazy. Thanks. Thatll save me some coin. Just plopped down on a 9er bike and was going to buy a rear 27.5 wheel with microdrive. I have a 27.5 rear wheel with a hg freehub body(non changeable) though. Still a bit of faffing about on it as its non boost. I have a rotor spacer and the axle is a thread in unit so no boost option axle. I have some old hope axle caps i think ill cut a 6mm spacer off the end of that to space the 142 to 148 and then dish the wheel a bit

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What is this front derailleur thing you speak of?

I can't imagine that 38t vs 39t would be a problem (especially for a clamp mount where there's not a restriction on how high you can mount it), but FWIW the Shimano FD-M785/FD-M786 is rated to 44t max and 14t capacity. SRAM and Shimano front derailleurs are compatible (as in you can run either brand's shifter with either brand's FD).

Is there enough material left to drill out the limit screw hole and tap in a bigger screw? I've done that many times with stripped threads on Rear Derailleurs.

I *might* have one lying around, I’ll look tonight.

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Originally Posted by MCS5280

The limit screw housing on my front derailleur cracked and the screw no longer holds position. The drivetrain is an older SRAM 2x10 setup with 26t-39t chainrings. I'm trying to find a clamp style (34.9mm seattube) replacement, but pretty much every SRAM 2x10 derailleur I find says they support a maximum of 38t. Can I get away with a 39t on something that supports 38t? I can't seem to find size compatibility info on the Shimano options.

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I don't know if I have any suitable front derailleurs in the bin, but for others who may -

What's the layout of the derailleur you need to replace? Top or bottom swing, top or bottom pull?

I’ve got an XTR double/triple FD and shifter lying around, should be a 34.9 clamp, will check the dimensions and pull orientation later on (parts bin is not near my couch and glass of whiskey).

Mine turns out to be a bolt on top pull, I think it may work with an external clamp but not sure.

I've mounted a million tubeless Maxxis Minions with no issue but I just got one that I can't get the bead to seat. When I first put it in the rim (no tube no sealant), I noticed the bead is a good 1-2 cm from the edge of the inner rim. I used the compressor and it wouldn't even come close to pushing the bead against the rim. I then put a tube in, seated one bead, pulled the tube out and the one bead is still 1-2 cm from the rim - no dice. I then did the same thing with some sealant - nope. Then put a tube in overnight to see if it would push the bead out - negative. I even rode it today to see if the bead would push out more and that didn't work.

Is this tire defective? Could the mold be off? Never had this issue and I'm out of ideas.

Is SRAM releasing the RS version of the CODE brakes soon? I came across a classified ad for CODE RS brakes off a 2021 Spec Enduro Expert. Can't find any other info on them. Nothing currently on SRAM's website. I always thought it was odd that they only offered R and RSC CODES.

Attachment 335559

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Originally Posted by g_man80

Is SRAM releasing the RS version of the CODE brakes soon? I came across a classified ad for CODE RS brakes off a 2021 Spec Enduro Expert. Can't find any other info on them. Nothing currently on SRAM's website. I always thought it was odd that they only offered R and RSC CODES.

Attachment 335559

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Wouldn’t be surprised if they were only for OEM.

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Originally Posted by HankScorpio

I've mounted a million tubeless Maxxis Minions with no issue but I just got one that I can't get the bead to seat. When I first put it in the rim (no tube no sealant), I noticed the bead is a good 1-2 cm from the edge of the inner rim. I used the compressor and it wouldn't even come close to pushing the bead against the rim. I then put a tube in, seated one bead, pulled the tube out and the one bead is still 1-2 cm from the rim - no dice. I then did the same thing with some sealant - nope. Then put a tube in overnight to see if it would push the bead out - negative. I even rode it today to see if the bead would push out more and that didn't work.

Is this tire defective? Could the mold be off? Never had this issue and I'm out of ideas.

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What PSI are you at in the tubed attempt?


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Ok, you all are going to think I’m a fucking screwball but I’ve used double stick tape to get a the bead close enough to pump up. Push one side onto rim with the tape all around, push up against tape. Other bead on, lay tape on rim, used a channel lock to gently get as much on tape as I could and compressor did the rest.


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I have used a can strap around the tread to reduce air volume and make it easier to seat. Wtb suggests this tactic.

Ok, I have one. Does anyone know if SRAM nx 11 speed and 12 speed rear derailluer use a different cable pull ratio?
Need to replace an 11, they are out of stock, curious if I could use a 12 NX or SX.
I know it’s doubtful.

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Originally Posted by Boissal

Fork question.

I just bought one of the last Orbea Occams in stock to make myself feel better about my fooked up wrist. Orbea usually offers a bunch of component options but since their supply chains are flailing anything but the stock configurations have been unavailable for a while. That means I didn't get to upgrade the fork to a 150mm FOX36 with GRIP2 damper and instead will be getting a 140mm FOX34 with the Fit4 damper.

That's the exact fork I'm currently running on my Primer and I have no qualms with it. It's also my first modern fork and my first modern bike so I have 0 reference points and nothing to compare it to. There seems to be a lot of hate for the FIT4 damper and its lack of adjustability but for me it's worked well enough, I very rarely use the 3-position adjustment switch unless I'm climbing miles of dirt road and haven't played much with other settings. I basically set the sag, played with rebound and bit, and that was the end of my tinkering.

For the Occam every review I've read has been with the beefier fork to keep with the trend of bigger is better. It's a $200 upgrade when available and doesn't change the geometry much (HTA and STA slackened by 0.5 degrees) so it seems like a no brainer. The problem right now is the availability of the 36 and the added cost since Fox has updated the 34 with a GRIP2 damper and I doubt I'll be able to sell the FIT4 version with a cut steerer for much more than $600.

I'm probably 175-180 lbs kitted and feel like I ride fairly aggressively (usually in the top 10-15% of Stravassholes on local segments, whatever that means) but realistically I know that I'm not a badass. I don't huck things, I don't ride park, I'm getting older and more scared of things, and I like going uphill and suffering for long periods of time as much as like bombing downhill. My happy place right now would be a 25+ miles adventure ride with lots of vert, some HAB, and some technical stuff at low speed on the down (for Wasatch people my go-to rides are things like Solitude/Honeycomb/Days/Catherine/Beartrap and when I ride PC I'm happier on Black Forest/Moose House than on Silver Queen). I don't have much time to travel with the bike so 95% of my riding will be in the Wasatch and I'll probably never make it to Squamish.

So, how much happier would I be with a 36 and longer travel? Increased stiffness might be nice but without ever feeling that the 34 is a flexy noodle I wonder how apparent it will be for the type of riding I do. Better adjustability may be lost on me, I don't see myself running a DH segment 5 times back to back to see how each click of HSC affects the handling. Longer travel could be useful for the rare times I get into really rowdy stuff but I think I could achieve that cheaply with a longer airshaft in the 34. I'm not married to FOX either, should I look at the RS Pike? Those 35 mm stanchions might be a happy middle ground between the FOX options... Or should I just ride the stock fork and stop blowing money ??

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I'm late to the game here. I never check this thread because I'm not an expert by any stretch. I have the Fox 36 w/Grip 2 on my Transition Snuggler, 140mm F, 120mm R. I don't huck or ride park, I'm not particularly fast, and I'm probably only in the top 10% of stravasholes on trails that I've ridden 50 plus times (DH's anyway). And lastly, I have no comparison to the Fox 34, my last bike had a Pike which I thought was awesome. Until I rode the 36.

The amount of tinkery settings was daunting, but I borrowed a shock wiz and feel like it is set up pretty damn good. I'm really impressed with how smooth and planted the fork is on fast, rough trails, while still being compliant on smaller bumps.

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Originally Posted by rideit

Ok, I have one. Does anyone know if SRAM nx 11 speed and 12 speed rear derailluer use a different cable pull ratio?
Need to replace an 11, they are out of stock, curious if I could use a 12 NX or SX.
I know it’s doubtful.

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Yep, same cable pull.

Thanks!
I assume SX as well?

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Originally Posted by rideit

Thanks!
I assume SX as well?

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Sram says all the Eagle parts are cross compatible, so I assume so.

11 speed derailleurs obviously don't have the capacity to handle a 50t cog, so doing the opposite of what you're talking about is no go, but the cable pull is the same.

What are the negative affects of short stroking a shock? I presume that it basically lops off the end of travel and the corresponding part of the leverage curve. If the ending of the leverage curve is pretty flat, it probably doesn't have any noticeable affect on bottom-out, other than maybe needing 1 more click of HSC.

And the resulting travel is proportionate the the reduction in stroke, correct? (60mm/65mm x 165mm = 152.3mm)

I ask because I'm tinkering with ideas on how to make the ideal ridEgg MegaSmash mullet, in terms of balancing front/rear travel and preserving my ideal geometry. My current concept would be a 150mm 29er fork up front, a Smash shock (230x60) hooked up to MegaTrail rear for 152mm travel in Gravity mode, and maybe a single offset bushing flipped to steepen the angles. If my sketches are right, that'd be 64.2 HTA, 66.2 STA, and 347 BB with the offset bushing. Without the offset bushing it'd be 0.5 degrees slacker and 5mm lower.

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Originally Posted by Andeh

And the resulting travel is proportionate the the reduction in stroke, correct? (60mm/65mm x 165mm = 152.3mm)

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That’s an interesting question... when you shorten the stoke of the shock does the change in rear wheel travel come off the end of the shocks movement, or does it come off as an average....

If it’s the former, then your assumption is wrong...
If it’s the latter, you are right.

I’m sure it’s just a few MM different, but interesting to think about.


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Originally Posted by Boissal

Fork question.

I just bought one of the last Orbea Occams in stock to make myself feel better about my fooked up wrist. Orbea usually offers a bunch of component options but since their supply chains are flailing anything but the stock configurations have been unavailable for a while. That means I didn't get to upgrade the fork to a 150mm FOX36 with GRIP2 damper and instead will be getting a 140mm FOX34 with the Fit4 damper.

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sell the 34 and compensate. I’ve been thinking about Suntour DUROLUX ($491.96 with code)
I have the Fox 34 but I’d like the option to go 150/160 in like 10 min on my 135-ass end bike.

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Originally Posted by nickwm21

That’s an interesting question... when you shorten the stoke of the shock does the change in rear wheel travel come off the end of the shocks movement, or does it come off as an average....

If it’s the former, then your assumption is wrong...
If it’s the latter, you are right.

I’m sure it’s just a few MM different, but interesting to think about.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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The reason I figured it was off the end of the travel is because the eye to eye length remains the same. So the starting point from 0 stroke remains the same, it just stops somewhere in the wheel travel at 60mm of shock stroke instead of continuing to 65mm.

shock stroke is not directly proportional to suspension travel, it depends on pivot/link placement, for most bikes its not a huge difference, but for some it can be worth noting

think about a high single pivot with lots of rearward travel, during the first portion of shock stroke the wheel moves rearward and slowly upward, but in the second half of shock travel the wheel is moving more upward and not back very much, so the relationship between shock travel and upward wheel travel is increasing through the shock stroke

personally i would rather chop off the initial portion of stroke rather than the end, keeping the midrange and bottom out support and losing some of the more supple initial travel, depending on leverage curve and other crap of course, but honestly you wont notice a hell of a lot of difference on most bikes

im not familiar enough with the gg kinematics but assume its fairly linear as its compatible with air/coil and lots of difference travel configurations it should be easily tunable to what you are trying to accomplish

Dude.
Punctuation.

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Originally Posted by rideit

Dude.
Punctuation.

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i added spaces, im not paid enough for full sentences...
:the_finge

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Originally Posted by rideit

Dude.
Punctuation.

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I'd settle for some capitalizations.

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Originally Posted by Cabinfever

What PSI are you at in the tubed attempt?


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Is this still a problem? if so, coat tire bead with soapy water.

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Originally Posted by carlh

I have used a can strap around the tread to reduce air volume and make it easier to seat. Wtb suggests this tactic.

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I have done this for floppy road+ tires with good results. It can put the bead more where you want it. Other thing I've learned (maybe in this thread) is to pre-seat the bead with the lever before adding sealant or pumping, e.g. 12 to 6 oclock on the drive side and 6 to 12 on nds.

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Originally Posted by HankScorpio

I've mounted a million tubeless Maxxis Minions with no issue but I just got one that I can't get the bead to seat. When I first put it in the rim (no tube no sealant), I noticed the bead is a good 1-2 cm from the edge of the inner rim. I used the compressor and it wouldn't even come close to pushing the bead against the rim. I then put a tube in, seated one bead, pulled the tube out and the one bead is still 1-2 cm from the rim - no dice. I then did the same thing with some sealant - nope. Then put a tube in overnight to see if it would push the bead out - negative. I even rode it today to see if the bead would push out more and that didn't work.

Is this tire defective? Could the mold be off? Never had this issue and I'm out of ideas.

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No, return that tire. Something is wrong. You have good/great wheels, correct? Like you said, I just mounted a pair of Flows without stans and a hand pump in about 30 seconds.

Xt 8000 11 speed shifter snapping cables at the derailleur. Getting the cable in clean. I will replace the housing this time but can't figure out what I am not getting aligned to make them snap. This will be my third cable on this bike this summer. It is breaking on the exposed cable between the housing and the bolt for the derailleur.

Any advice?

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Originally Posted by carlh

I have used a can strap around the tread to reduce air volume and make it easier to seat. Wtb suggests this tactic.

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i have tried a cam strap but IME I still can't get it tight enough so what I do is get a piece of 3/8ths rope, make a circle just slightly larger than the tire carcass, put a screwdriver or some kind of lever in the loop and wind that rope up tight as possible which squeezes the tire tread down/spreads out the beads against the rim, I have been able to seat all my tubeless tires with just a regular shop pump using the rope

I got the idea from a gas station I worked at way back in the day where they had this metal clamp which went around the casing to help inflate tubeless car tires

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Originally Posted by XXX-er

i have tried a cam strap but IME I still can't get it tight enough so what I do is get a piece of 3/8ths rope, make a circle just slightly larger than the tire carcass, put a screwdriver or some kind of lever in the loop and wind that rope up tight as possible which squeezes the tire tread down/spreads out the beads against the rim, I have been able to seat all my tubeless tires with just a regular shop pump using the rope

I got the idea from a gas station I worked at way back in the day where they had this metal clamp which went around the casing to help inflate tubeless car tires

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I admire the ingenuity everyone uses, but wtf bike industry? Shouldn't be this hard (usually isn't in my experience, but I will admit to using cam straps before.)

Double check for a burr at the end of the cable housing. After cutting, I like to use a nail punch, or nail to round out the inside of the cut cable housing. It could be rubbing enough at the end to eventually saw thru your cable.

Either that, or you have something that you've missed in routing the cable thru the derailleur, a guide of some sort?

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Originally Posted by panchosdad

I admire the ingenuity everyone uses, but wtf bike industry? Shouldn't be this hard (usually isn't in my experience, but I will admit to using cam straps before.)

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well I supose i could re-market some tool from before cartire mounting machines got so good to all the dentists but I would still have to suggest using a piece of rope

a tube is like 6$ and nobody is making you run tubeless

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Originally Posted by Canada1

Xt 8000 11 speed shifter snapping cables at the derailleur. Getting the cable in clean. I will replace the housing this time but can't figure out what I am not getting aligned to make them snap. This will be my third cable on this bike this summer. It is breaking on the exposed cable between the housing and the bolt for the derailleur.

Any advice?

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I always face the ends of the cable on my shop grinder,

As already mentioned flare out the end of the cable with something pointy

if its a full suspension bike unbolt one end of the shock and slowly run the suspension thru its travel by hand to see if anything is binding or hanging up ?

Is the cable and housing long enough so it isnt snapping due to being stretched tight ?

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Originally Posted by Canada1

Xt 8000 11 speed shifter snapping cables at the derailleur. Getting the cable in clean. I will replace the housing this time but can't figure out what I am not getting aligned to make them snap. This will be my third cable on this bike this summer. It is breaking on the exposed cable between the housing and the bolt for the derailleur.

Any advice?

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The 8000 rear derailleur pulls the cable a pretty extreme angle. They tend to break next to the cable clamp where it rubs on the aluminum. A couple suggestions that you may have tried:
- When installing cable, get the adjustment right the first time. Don't clamp down on the cable, and then pull it out a little more and reclamp it. Clamping the cable weakens it, and it is prone to breakage at the clamping point.
- Don't over-torque the clamp bolt.
- Sand, file, or dremel a relief or fillet where you see silver rub marks on the derailleur housing. A small round file work well.

Attachment 335674

On the the previous generation of Shimano cranks, is the little black shim with a pin necessary?
Figure its either used to keep a loose arm from falling off, registration or possibly something to fill the arm slot gap/pinch against when you torque the arm down for installation? (M9000)

The shim/stopper plate might be hidden in the shop-vac. If it is unnecessary, I will skip trying to find it.


Thanks

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Originally Posted by g_man80

The 8000 rear derailleur pulls the cable a pretty extreme angle. They tend to break next to the cable clamp where it rubs on the aluminum. A couple suggestions that you may have tried:
- When installing cable, get the adjustment right the first time. Don't clamp down on the cable, and then pull it out a little more and reclamp it. Clamping the cable weakens it, and it is prone to breakage at the clamping point.
- Don't over-torque the clamp bolt.
- Sand, file, or dremel a relief or fillet where you see silver rub marks on the derailleur housing. A small round file work well.

Attachment 335674

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What torque on the clamp bolt? I will file or sand that connection point, and bet that is it. I had replaced this derailleur at the start of all of this when he snapped it off, and that photo is telling!

Thanks!

Looking to bump up my brake rotor size to 200mm from 180mm (front & rear). Running SRAM Code RSC brakes on a Fox 36 up front. Fox 36 takes 180 stock. I understand I need some sort of adapter to make the 200 work, but cannot figure out what the adapter is or what I'm adapting.

HALP ME EXPERTS!

SRAM Disc 20mm Post-Mount Disc Caliper to Post Mount Frame/Fork Adaptor.
A lot of sites will list them as 160 to 180 adapter. They are the same deal as what you need, just a 20mm bump.
I assume your rear frame is a Post Mount and does not have an adapter already installed, as in stock 180 disc, if you have a 20mm adapter already on there, you’ll need to replace it with a 40mm adapter.
If it’s mounted with IS (sideways bolts) you’ll need
SRAM Disc 20mm IS Adaptor, Fits 180mm Front and 160mm Rear Rotors