Wrenchin... Adventures under the hood... Put em here.

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Originally Posted by warthog

Have an odd one here. Hoping for an easy fix... Unlikely.

So my 1979 Jeep ran out of gas, luckily still in the driveway. I put about 2 gallons in it and drove it to the station. Filled it up. I stalled about a mile down the road, and about 1/2 mile from my house. Killed the battery trying to get it to start again. I walked home, got my other car, and attempted to jump it. Nada.
I used starting fluid, which usually works right away. Still nada.

Left the Jeep on the side of the road and came home to research. Some said just let it sit and try later. Something to do with the charcoal filter flooding the engine. Others said to loosen the gas cap to reduce potential vacuum.
The next morning, I loosened the gas cap, jumped it to full battery, dumped some gas in the carb, and it started after a couple tries. Ran like a champ, and is fine now.

Any thoughts on what happened? Easy answer is not to run out of gas, but with my wonky gas gauge, it is likely to happen again. I am thinking there is a possibility of a vacuum effect from filling it right after it being empty, but that seems really odd.

Has this happened to anyone else? Maybe next time I will not fill it all the way, and see what happens. I also probably could use a new battery, so maybe that is part of the issue?

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Mechanical fuel pump got a bubble or some other negative pressure in it? Only thing I can think of if it runs fine now.

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Originally Posted by warthog

I swear by Rotella T Heavy Duty Deisel 15W-40 in my old Jeep. Tends to leak a lot less, and cleans the hell out of the engine. Most old CJ guys are using it, as the diesel oil tends to catch all the shit. Many stories on the Jeep forums about guys doing some sort of piston work after running this oil for years. They all say their pistons look brand new on inspection.

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It's good stuff. Delo 15w40 in the blue jugs is good oil too, cheap and has a very similar additive package with over 1000ppm Zn and P. And Delo is easier to find in straight grades, which a lot of engines really prefer.




As to your old JeepJeep...Have you checked your fuel filter? In keeping with what BCMH mentioned, air bubbles from running out can dislodge shit in fuel filters.
Is there the possibility of water in the tank?

I use the thin T6 rotella in my old diesel and it makes a world of difference. It's an '80's vintage and still clanks and purrs due to my upkeep of it.

Available at walmart for like 20. Don't know jack about using it in a gasser though.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by warthog

Have an odd one here. Hoping for an easy fix... Unlikely.

So my 1979 Jeep ran out of gas, luckily still in the driveway. I put about 2 gallons in it and drove it to the station. Filled it up. I stalled about a mile down the road, and about 1/2 mile from my house. Killed the battery trying to get it to start again. I walked home, got my other car, and attempted to jump it. Nada.
I used starting fluid, which usually works right away. Still nada.

Left the Jeep on the side of the road and came home to research. Some said just let it sit and try later. Something to do with the charcoal filter flooding the engine. Others said to loosen the gas cap to reduce potential vacuum.
The next morning, I loosened the gas cap, jumped it to full battery, dumped some gas in the carb, and it started after a couple tries. Ran like a champ, and is fine now.

Any thoughts on what happened? Easy answer is not to run out of gas, but with my wonky gas gauge, it is likely to happen again. I am thinking there is a possibility of a vacuum effect from filling it right after it being empty, but that seems really odd.

Has this happened to anyone else? Maybe next time I will not fill it all the way, and see what happens. I also probably could use a new battery, so maybe that is part of the issue?

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Could you have dislodged some crap at the bottom or your tank causing a blockage somewhere?


Sent from my iPad using TGR Forums

Quote:

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Originally Posted by warthog

Have an odd one here. Hoping for an easy fix... Unlikely.

So my 1979 Jeep ran out of gas, luckily still in the driveway. I put about 2 gallons in it and drove it to the station. Filled it up. I stalled about a mile down the road, and about 1/2 mile from my house. Killed the battery trying to get it to start again. I walked home, got my other car, and attempted to jump it. Nada.
I used starting fluid, which usually works right away. Still nada.

Left the Jeep on the side of the road and came home to research. Some said just let it sit and try later. Something to do with the charcoal filter flooding the engine. Others said to loosen the gas cap to reduce potential vacuum.
The next morning, I loosened the gas cap, jumped it to full battery, dumped some gas in the carb, and it started after a couple tries. Ran like a champ, and is fine now.

Any thoughts on what happened? Easy answer is not to run out of gas, but with my wonky gas gauge, it is likely to happen again. I am thinking there is a possibility of a vacuum effect from filling it right after it being empty, but that seems really odd.

Has this happened to anyone else? Maybe next time I will not fill it all the way, and see what happens. I also probably could use a new battery, so maybe that is part of the issue?

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Possibly some air trapped in your fuel lines. Next time let your fuel pump prime for 20-30 seconds before cranking. If it does it again try tapping in your fuel pressure regulator.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by warthog

Have an odd one here. Hoping for an easy fix... Unlikely.

So my 1979 Jeep ran out of gas, luckily still in the driveway. I put about 2 gallons in it and drove it to the station. Filled it up. I stalled about a mile down the road, and about 1/2 mile from my house. Killed the battery trying to get it to start again. I walked home, got my other car, and attempted to jump it. Nada.
I used starting fluid, which usually works right away. Still nada.

Left the Jeep on the side of the road and came home to research. Some said just let it sit and try later. Something to do with the charcoal filter flooding the engine. Others said to loosen the gas cap to reduce potential vacuum.
The next morning, I loosened the gas cap, jumped it to full battery, dumped some gas in the carb, and it started after a couple tries. Ran like a champ, and is fine now.

Any thoughts on what happened? Easy answer is not to run out of gas, but with my wonky gas gauge, it is likely to happen again. I am thinking there is a possibility of a vacuum effect from filling it right after it being empty, but that seems really odd.

Has this happened to anyone else? Maybe next time I will not fill it all the way, and see what happens. I also probably could use a new battery, so maybe that is part of the issue?

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[Formerly] my 81 with a six had an in-line external fuel filter in the engine bay. I had similar symptoms in the field. Took off that fuel filter and blew backwards through it, bunch of crap came out - rust actually. Re-installed and made it home no problem. Replaced the fuel filter but eventually had to re-condition the gas tank. Sending unit in the tank IIRC, was pretty burly and did not need replacing. You can probably get the gauge functioning again by cleaning the sending unit, you'll see the rheostat on it. Filter had pretty easy access. Driver's side on mine, V8 may have the same set up.

Rust on the inside of the tank is extremely common. I used muratic acid, water rinse, repeat to "recondition" and re-installed, but that's because I was broke and used the coon ass fix as opposed to purchasing a proper replacement like this one

https://www.quadratec.com/products/5...SABEgJgnPD_BwE

^^ extra capacity, so includes new brackets. May reduce you exit angle a bit.

Cheap metal replacement: https://www.4wd.com/p/crown-automotive-fuel-tanks/4015

Easy shade tree job.

I can almost promise you'll find rust flakes in that fuel filter.

I use that rotella t6 in my BMW V8 Gasser. Works great.

sent from some fucking device using some fucking program.

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Originally Posted by basinbeater

I use that rotella t6 in my BMW V8 Gasser. Works great.

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Another vote for T6 here. Run it in all the vehicles, including the sportbikes and 4T outboard(s) on the boat.

.

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Originally Posted by Ol' Moss-Back

Another vote for T6 here. Run it in all the vehicles, including the sportbikes and 4T outboard(s) on the boat.

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Rotella T6 in the FZ1...
Attachment 252439

Dzl oil for a 4 cyl. Jap literbike. Works for the wet clutch.

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Originally Posted by MakersTeleMark

I use the thin T6 rotella in my old diesel and it makes a world of difference. It's an '80's vintage and still clanks and purrs due to my upkeep of it.

Available at walmart for like 20. Don't know jack about using it in a gasser though.

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I've taken to M1 5w40 TDT for my OBS 7.3 PSD. Buy it @Wallys during XOM rebate season, and it's cheaper than Rotella T4.
A bit higher spec base oil than T6, with a bitchin TBN of close to 12. Pretty much gotta go to a boutique diesel oil to get higher specs, as a matter of fact, so it may be worth the $1/qt price premium over T6 for some.

But at that point, you are kinda splittin' hairs unless you are somehow using that slight bit of extra stuffs.

Doing exhaust work in the driveway is exhausting. There is another jack under the frame in the front dont fret we were real safeAttachment 252490

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Originally Posted by Jong Lafitte

[Formerly] my 81 with a six had an in-line external fuel filter in the engine bay. I had similar symptoms in the field. Took off that fuel filter and blew backwards through it, bunch of crap came out - rust actually. Re-installed and made it home no problem. Replaced the fuel filter but eventually had to re-condition the gas tank. Sending unit in the tank IIRC, was pretty burly and did not need replacing. You can probably get the gauge functioning again by cleaning the sending unit, you'll see the rheostat on it. Filter had pretty easy access. Driver's side on mine, V8 may have the same set up.

Rust on the inside of the tank is extremely common. I used muratic acid, water rinse, repeat to "recondition" and re-installed, but that's because I was broke and used the coon ass fix as opposed to purchasing a proper replacement like this one

https://www.quadratec.com/products/5...SABEgJgnPD_BwE

^^ extra capacity, so includes new brackets. May reduce you exit angle a bit.

Cheap metal replacement: https://www.4wd.com/p/crown-automotive-fuel-tanks/4015

Easy shade tree job.

I can almost promise you'll find rust flakes in that fuel filter.

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Yep, plugged fuel filter is my guess

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Originally Posted by highangle

It's good stuff. Delo 15w40 in the blue jugs is good oil too, cheap and has a very similar additive package with over 1000ppm Zn and P. And Delo is easier to find in straight grades, which a lot of engines really prefer.




As to your old JeepJeep...Have you checked your fuel filter? In keeping with what BCMH mentioned, air bubbles from running out can dislodge shit in fuel filters.
Is there the possibility of water in the tank?

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Being a Chevron station for years, we always used Delo over Supreme. When I got my first new car and called Chevron tech support, I was told Delo was formulated for diesels and to not run in a gas engine. He said it was bad for the catalytic converter.

This was after I broke in and used Delo 15-40 for the first 50,000 miles in my Subie. It's got 238,000 and still runs good. USing Supreme 5-30 now.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by warthog

I swear by Rotella T Heavy Duty Deisel 15W-40 in my old Jeep. Tends to leak a lot less, and cleans the hell out of the engine. Most old CJ guys are using it, as the diesel oil tends to catch all the shit. Many stories on the Jeep forums about guys doing some sort of piston work after running this oil for years. They all say their pistons look brand new on inspection.

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I've put it in my Land Rover Discovery for years. The high zinc content is supposed to be good for flat tappet engines. Also, Sam's Club sells it in 55 gallon drums, convenient for Land Rover owners.


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c6f7aa448e.jpg

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Originally Posted by TheFugitive

Doing exhaust work in the driveway is exhausting. There is another jack under the frame in the front dont fret we were real safeAttachment 252490

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Go buy some jack stands. I know a guy , his dad died under a car like that. Poor bastard grew up without a dad.

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Originally Posted by fatnslow

Go buy some jack stands.

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This x100. That is just plain stupid.

Ehhh thats not me under the car. I was pretty buzzed so was thesafety observer. Very safe we were. Nobody died like fatnslows buddies dad

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Originally Posted by basinbeater

I'm annoyed as hell. BMW e34 seats are twisting, (I knew this when I bought it) and it is a relatively easy fix, but... Not if somebody has already been in there and hacked it up. Fuck.
So I tried to replicate the previous owners repair, but improve on it with glue and zip ties.
Hassle factor elevated.
Attachment 251005Attachment 251006

sent from some fucking device using some fucking program.

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Being a former e34 owner I can feel your pain. I used to scour the u pull junk yards looking for parts to correct PO hacks. I have an e60 now but still miss the tank like build quality and feel of the e34. Take care of it, nice ones seem harder and harder to find these days.

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Originally Posted by Slopetime

Never use a dealer to fix anything unless it's a warranty issue.

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Truth! Most techs are flat rate parts changers who take as many short cuts as they can to do the job as fast as possible. Find a good indy, or better yet learn to turn a wrench, and you're golden.

Reading conflicting advice on clutch bleed on the ford forum which is disconcerting. Hard to parse the info of people that had to do parts replacement versus people like myself that (likely) just let the fluid get a little low and got a small air bubble in the master cylinder. Fluid is older anyway, but as soon as I get a newer rig this is going to be relegated to seldom use, so not the concerned about it and not wanting to go the route of removal and bench bleed.

I read that there is an air pocket in the cylinder when the truck is level, but if you jack the front end it is enough to remove bubbles by topping off master and pumping clutch.

Debating trying that versus the bleeder screw below the slave. If I could open the bleeder, with nobody else depressing the clutch, and just gravity bleed the whole system I'd go for it. again various reports of that not working though, and making it worse.

Or, if it makes a difference, could recruit help to depress clutch, or could rig a 2x4 to depress clutch, and then open bleeder.

Currently got stuck shifting once, but topped off master, pumped the clutch 100 times, in addition to letting it pop back as I read might help, and that got me back on the road and have driven 100 miles since.
. Advice welcome.
96 f150 i6 4.9 (split year, engine from < 95)

Is the flare nut connecting the line to the master easily accessible? You can try cracking open the line near the master while someone is depressing the pedal to bleed the master directly. Sometimes its easier to bleed a trapped bubble this way rather than pushing it all the way down to the slave.

I like that idea, and I think you're right, seems odd to try to push a bubble down to slave. Not sure about the connection of the master, in the vids, they yank it out one complete unit from master line slave one piece. Looks like a spinal cord.

But with your idea in mind, makes sense to jack up front end and try that route first anyway, clear what bubbles I can, and then go for bleeder to get newer fluid through the whole line as a second process.

edit well looking at this nor sure if there is fluid in the push rod cylinder, maybe. But no removing master doesn't look too helpful or easy.

Attachment 252909
Attachment 252904

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Originally Posted by newspeed

Being a former e34 owner I can feel your pain. I used to scour the u pull junk yards looking for parts to correct PO hacks. I have an e60 now but still miss the tank like build quality and feel of the e34. Take care of it, nice ones seem harder and harder to find these days.

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Yeah, great cars. I've had a couple e30s and e46s as well, and one e61 wagon, the e30 and e34 are great driving, extremely well built cars. E46 are ok, still have the nice analog drive, but build quality is down, and the e61, it was nice..., But some of the magic was gone, and I got tired of fixing stuff on it, so it is gone.

sent from some fucking device using some fucking program.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rideski

Reading conflicting advice on clutch bleed on the ford forum which is disconcerting. Hard to parse the info of people that had to do parts replacement versus people like myself that (likely) just let the fluid get a little low and got a small air bubble in the master cylinder. Fluid is older anyway, but as soon as I get a newer rig this is going to be relegated to seldom use, so not the concerned about it and not wanting to go the route of removal and bench bleed.

I read that there is an air pocket in the cylinder when the truck is level, but if you jack the front end it is enough to remove bubbles by topping off master and pumping clutch.

Debating trying that versus the bleeder screw below the slave. If I could open the bleeder, with nobody else depressing the clutch, and just gravity bleed the whole system I'd go for it. again various reports of that not working though, and making it worse.

Or, if it makes a difference, could recruit help to depress clutch, or could rig a 2x4 to depress clutch, and then open bleeder.

Currently got stuck shifting once, but topped off master, pumped the clutch 100 times, in addition to letting it pop back as I read might help, and that got me back on the road and have driven 100 miles since.
. Advice welcome.
96 f150 i6 4.9 (split year, engine from < 95)

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Question- why did the clutch fluid need topping off? Find any leaks? Pull the boot back on the slave, if it's wet it's no good. Quick Google check says you have the brilliant design of slave cyl inside the bellhousing with the release bearing, is that correct? Have fun with that.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rideski

Reading conflicting advice on clutch bleed on the ford forum which is disconcerting. Hard to parse the info of people that had to do parts replacement versus people like myself that (likely) just let the fluid get a little low and got a small air bubble in the master cylinder. Fluid is older anyway, but as soon as I get a newer rig this is going to be relegated to seldom use, so not the concerned about it and not wanting to go the route of removal and bench bleed.

I read that there is an air pocket in the cylinder when the truck is level, but if you jack the front end it is enough to remove bubbles by topping off master and pumping clutch.

Debating trying that versus the bleeder screw below the slave. If I could open the bleeder, with nobody else depressing the clutch, and just gravity bleed the whole system I'd go for it. again various reports of that not working though, and making it worse.

Or, if it makes a difference, could recruit help to depress clutch, or could rig a 2x4 to depress clutch, and then open bleeder.

Currently got stuck shifting once, but topped off master, pumped the clutch 100 times, in addition to letting it pop back as I read might help, and that got me back on the road and have driven 100 miles since.
. Advice welcome.
96 f150 i6 4.9 (split year, engine from < 95)

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Don't remove anything. There are 2 different 5 speed manual trannies from this era. ZF 5 comes in 3/4 and 1 tons and has an external slave cylinder. All 1/2 tons got a Mazda 5 speed that I cant remember the name of. Its slave is up inside the bell housing and it inserts over the input shaft of your transmission. To bench bleed you would have to pull trans/transfer case. So.....
Get a second person to depress the clutch as you open the bleeder. Same process as bleeding brakes. Open bleeder, depress clutch and hold while the bleeder is closed, then let up clutch and repeat. Good communication necessary here because if pedal pressure is let up while bleeder is open=more air in line.
Get some vinyl tubing that you can push onto bleeder and run it into a pickle jar(or similar). It's pretty simple once you figure out what you're doing(sucks tho).
Brake fluid is hygroscopic and will pull moisture from the air. It also gets very dirty over time and that dirt can be hard on internal parts. It should be flushed every so often anyway. While you are under there, you should check the ATF in the tranny and transfer case(they can slow leak too) and top them off(these fluids should also be changed every 30,000)
Sell that pickup to me when you get your new pickup!
I have a '95 w/5.0 now. My daughters car had to go to the paint shop last week and she had a brand new F150 w/ the 2.7ecoboost. Holy shit what a contrast between the 2. No bogging down going up canyons and such in that thing! Wish I could go drop the coin...