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10-19-2022, 02:01 PM
skaredshtles

Quote:

Originally Posted by XXX-er

My understanding is that the 9's were even worse than the mags but its all anecdotal right

I also had an NRS built up from frame, thats what I put BB7's on, it was a good bike, a HT until you need suspension

NRS: Not Really Suspension

I rode around on that bike a couple years back up in MT where the kids are schooling... and holy SHIT was it a twitchy mf'er. Can't believe I rode that damn thing for almost a decade and didn't kill my own damned self.
10-19-2022, 02:02 PM
skaredshtles

Quote:

Originally Posted by toast2266

The 9's lasted forever as long as you didn't get them hot. I still have a set lying around that was on my dirt jumper. They're 20 years old and they still work fine. Of course, they make zero power and if you get them hot then they go to shit. But for a dirt jumper they were fine.

Yeah - I probably never got them very hot 'cause that NRS was so damned twitchy I was probably always riding pretty slowly. :D
10-19-2022, 02:14 PM
toast2266

Quote:

Originally Posted by skaredshtles

Yeah - I probably never got them very hot 'cause that NRS was so damned twitchy I was probably always riding pretty slowly. :D

And in your defense, those things make so little power, it takes some doing to get them hot.
10-19-2022, 02:15 PM
skaredshtles

Quote:

Originally Posted by toast2266

And in your defense, those things make so little power, it takes some doing to get them hot.

Probably the only time they would have gotten hot was on Porc Rim runs, and I was probably so distracted by my teeth rattling out of my skull that I didn't notice the brakes.
10-19-2022, 02:20 PM
bagtagley

Quote:

Originally Posted by rideit

I want to make a contraption that ‘connects’ an impact wrench to the rear caliper (and levers?) in order to vibrate those damn last micro bubbles out! I think I’ll just try it gently with a rag. I may be on to something!

Massage gun would do it.
10-19-2022, 03:04 PM
XXX-er

Quote:

Originally Posted by skaredshtles

NRS: Not Really Suspension

I rode around on that bike a couple years back up in MT where the kids are schooling... and holy SHIT was it a twitchy mf'er. Can't believe I rode that damn thing for almost a decade and didn't kill my own damned self.

well the engineering/angles/ suspension wheel sizes have got way slacker/ way better which is why I don't see how anyone would want to ride a vintage anything
10-19-2022, 03:20 PM
Dee Hubbs

Quote:

Originally Posted by rideit

I want to make a contraption that ‘connects’ an impact wrench to the rear caliper (and levers?) in order to vibrate those damn last micro bubbles out! I think I’ll just try it gently with a rag. I may be on to something!

Orbital sanders without a sanding disc.
10-19-2022, 03:43 PM
rideit

I'm going to try it with my next bleed, but it will be hard to 'quantify' if it works. It would be cool if some of you try it too.
10-19-2022, 04:13 PM
climberevan

1 Attachment(s)

Quote:

Originally Posted by rideit

I want to make a contraption that ‘connects’ an impact wrench to the rear caliper (and levers?) in order to vibrate those damn last micro bubbles out! I think I’ll just try it gently with a rag. I may be on to something!

Duh.

Attachment 430526
10-19-2022, 04:22 PM
toast2266

Shimanos are clearly the best brakes. Just make sure you wipe off the vibrator before and after your bleed procedure.
10-19-2022, 05:08 PM
jm2e

Quote:

Originally Posted by toast2266

Shimanos are clearly the best brakes. Just make sure you wipe off the vibrator before and after your bleed procedure.

Was that a Shimano jab? I've haven't cared about micro-bubbles since my last pair of Juicy brakes.
10-19-2022, 05:08 PM
grskier

Quote:

Originally Posted by rideit

Whenever I have remotely experienced this, it was the result of an incomplete/impatient bleed. If that is the same as ‘wandering bite point’, which I haven’t experienced while actually riding.

This. It was just about where that one bubble is in the line.. Then, if you get more air for whatever reason.. it starts to wander in.
10-19-2022, 05:31 PM
toast2266

Quote:

Originally Posted by jm2e

Was that a Shimano jab? I've haven't cared about micro-bubbles since my last pair of Juicy brakes.

A jab makes it sound so violent. It was more of a therapeutic insertion.
10-19-2022, 07:44 PM
XXX-er

Quote:

Originally Posted by jm2e

Was that a Shimano jab? I've haven't cared about micro-bubbles since my last pair of Juicy brakes.

I had zero problem with the Juicy & never had to bleed them
10-20-2022, 11:04 PM
Benneke10

I need a 30.9 dropper post with some setback. There aren't too many of them available. The only one's I've found are the discontinued Specialized Command Post, 9point8 Fall Line (and Fall Line R), and KS E-Ten. I went into a local shop today that had the older setback Specialized Command Post and the mechanic there urged me not to buy it because he said they all usually fail in less than a year. The 9point8 could work but there are reviews that say its finicky and requires lots of maintenance which I would rather not have to worry about. The KS is super heavy and also seems to have reliability issues. Is there anything I'm missing? What is the least-crappy setback dropper post?
10-20-2022, 11:39 PM
teledad

Haven't tried it, but this might be worth a look:
https://www.fairbicycle.com/product-page/drop-best
10-21-2022, 09:04 AM
Wes Mantooth

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs

I’ve had never felt it before, and have read so much about it, and always wondered if I was just not sensitive to it, and that’s why I had never “felt” it.
But last week on a long and rough sustained decent I actually experienced it for the first time.
I assume a micro bubble got bounced to a spot in the lever that cause the bit point to momentarily change mid breaking, my levers pulled slightly further to the bar before biting, I let off the brakes and on the next pull the lever was back to where is always has bitten (bite-ed?)
I did a quick funnel burb that night, the first maintenance since switching pads in June, and no issues since.
I’ll stay on team Shimano!

What about wandering further out? Occasionally on my dominions during a long descent the bite point of the rear brake will suddenly be significantly further away from the handlebar. Quickly releasing the brake and pulling it again always resets it. Only happens on long or steep descends where Im braking more than normal

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10-21-2022, 09:40 AM
climberevan

My experience with Shimano brakes was that they would just grab at random spots. The lever never pulled to the bar but I like to know where in the stroke the pads will contact the rotor, you know?
10-21-2022, 11:07 AM
jm2e

Quote:

Originally Posted by climberevan

My experience with Shimano brakes was that they would just grab at random spots. The lever never pulled to the bar but I like to know where in the stroke the pads will contact the rotor, you know?

Yea yea yea, we’ve been over this a million times.
Half the keyboard experts think Shimano brakes are death traps, the other half think they cure cancer.

The Sram camp leaves out how only the Code RSC works well.
The Shimano camp leaves out how despite them working great all the time, they do need to be bled more often if you want them to feel great.

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10-21-2022, 11:57 AM
toast2266

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wes Mantooth

What about wandering further out? Occasionally on my dominions during a long descent the bite point of the rear brake will suddenly be significantly further away from the handlebar. Quickly releasing the brake and pulling it again always resets it. Only happens on long or steep descends where Im braking more than normal

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Most modern brakes have a reservoir in the lever. When the oil heats up, it expands, and the reservoir compensates for that expansion. But the reservoir is only accessible when the lever is at or near full extension (when you pull the lever, the reservoir is cut off so power is directed into the caliper rather than the reservoir). So it sounds like you just need to feather the brakes a bit more to allow the fluid access to the reservoir more often.
10-21-2022, 12:11 PM
Wes Mantooth

Quote:

Originally Posted by toast2266

Most modern brakes have a reservoir in the lever. When the oil heats up, it expands, and the reservoir compensates for that expansion. But the reservoir is only accessible when the lever is at or near full extension (when you pull the lever, the reservoir is cut off so power is directed into the caliper rather than the reservoir). So it sounds like you just need to feather the brakes a bit more to allow the fluid access to the reservoir more often.

Makes sense since it only happens in occasions where I’m on the brakes for an extended period of time which isn’t all that often. I try to release and modulate as much as possible for heat dissipation (and I think it helps go faster)
10-21-2022, 12:19 PM
Benneke10

Quote:

Originally Posted by teledad

Haven't tried it, but this might be worth a look:
https://www.fairbicycle.com/product-page/drop-best

Thanks, that looks pretty cool! $100+ for a clamp is a lot but it looks like Reverbs aren't too expensive. Is the Reverb significantly better than the 9point8?
10-21-2022, 04:50 PM
grubbers

Depending on how much drop you’re looking for, I’ve got a 125mm Command Post that I’ll send your way for cheap. It could use a quick tear down and relube, but it never caused me any problems.

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10-21-2022, 09:22 PM
Benneke10

Thanks Grubbers! Sent you a pm
10-22-2022, 09:38 AM
jm2e

I’ve got this ~4 year old Reynolds carbon wheel set. They always suck to set up tubeless because the valve won’t seal.
As far as I can tell, “standard” valve hole (inside surface of the rim) is 9/32” and the hole in these is 1/4”. The end result is that the rubber stopper on the valve never sets into the hole, and instead just sits on top.
Debating whether to drill it out. I’ve never drilled into carbon. I’m skeert. Any thoughts from the collective?

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