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Rotors? Been running 200mm SRAM Centerlines (all I could find last year).....Galfer? Something else? These seemed to have worn out/get hot very fast. I haven't ridden all that much and usually get much more milage out of rotors.
Possible that since I have been using Code R instead of RSC all summer that I am actually dragging more brake to compensate for lack of power? About to order some RSC levers since those are finally in stock again.
What rear shock do I want on my Enduro? Currently running the stock Super Deluxe select + and it's in need of a rebuild. Should I get it tuned? Service it and run it as is? Find a newer offering from RockShox? I'm skeptical of the newer fox stuff as reliability seems poor. I think I want to stick with an air shock as this is my only bike and gets pedaled a fair amount. Pretty happy with the performance of the Super Deluxe but wonder if there is something better out there.
Mine leaks air so I check & pump before most rides to get the pre-load back where it should be, the Santa Cruz is < 2 yrs old and still on warranty so I'm going to send it away when the snow flys to get rebuilt and will run it as is
You might be talking about going for a shock with a spring, consider if you are pretty happy that what you do facking around to replace it with might be worse, so how much facking around do you want to do ?
So I'm keeping my eyes open for a new pub bike project - got lots of spare parts so just need a frame that'll work. I'd rather stick with an MTB hardtail to be able to use those parts and make it kind of fun to ride, be able to jump on and off stuff when needed, take the bumps out of our shitty roads, etc.
I'm 6ft4 and my trail bike has grown to a 505mm reach over the years (now an XL Madonna 29). I'm really limiting my options/stretching my budget on the local used market looking for something that long though, and although building up something like a Honzo ST to give me a decent trail hardtail does kind of appeal I'd rather spend less and not worry about leaving it locked outside my house or in town.
If I was to build up something from a frame around 450-470mm reach would that still feel "too small" every time I hop on it or be fine for mainly 10-20 minute runs across town? I mean my Bronson felt like a good fit 7 years ago at 447mm reach but if I rode it now it would probably feel weird. My current town bike is a 15-20 year old Kona 26" XC frame which must be a size S or M and feels comically small so that's not much guidance but I guess anything is going to feel a better fit than that.
For a "ride to the bar and fuck around town" bike, smaller is better. You're not blasting down tech at speed, so stability doesn't really matter. But manualing and bunny hopping is easier on a smaller bike. I think the ideal size is the smallest that you can still comfortably sit and spin to cover some distance.Quote:
Originally Posted by LC
I switched over to 2.0mm hoping to fix this too. Not enough time yet to say “yea, that worked” but still optimistic.Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
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I've been using 2.0 rotors for a while (first Maguras with Maguras, then HS2s with Codes then Dominions). They definitely seem to stay straight longer and have less blueing. They were on sale recently at Fanatik, worth checking if they still are.Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
The new HS2 rotors are rad, thicker and steel. They last forever and disperse heat extremely well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
If the unbranded brakes on my wife’s budget ebike look like shimanos, I should bleed them like shimanos? (Mineral oil, funnel, etc…)
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Brake fluid will taste petroleum like and slightly sweet.Quote:
Originally Posted by nickwm21
Mineral Oil is basically tasteless.
YMMV
This may be the post of the day.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
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why are you bleeding them, are they spongy ?Quote:
Originally Posted by nickwm21
unleaded tastes a little tangy
supreme is kinda sour
and diesel tastes pretty good
Got my kid a new frame. New frame came with SRAM GX GXP cranks/BB, old frame has SRAM Descendent DUB cranks/BB, both 170 mm. Is it worth swapping the Descendent DUB over to the new frame? I do not have the tools for DUB and would need to take it to the shop.
Depends how much they are charging and how much you dislike weight. The tools are less than a new crankset typically and its not hard to do. DUB is the "standard" that SRAM is going forward with so you will be forward compatible at least for a while.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dantheman
A Descendent 7k is same as a GX. Descendent 6k is the same as NX. The DUB spindle is going to be a bit lighter setup.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dantheman
If it requires a BB swap (and shop labour), just keep em the same.
When the frames eventually needs a new BB, upgrade to DUB BB and put on the Descendent.
Oh lord, I'm an idiot. New frame is 73 mm BSA and the old one is BB92 so this whole thing is moot.
Yes, but both frames will take either crank.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dantheman
New Frame is 73 BSA standard, BB is 68/73 BSA GXP, with GX GXP Crank.
You still have the option of putting a new 73 BSA DUB bottom bracket in that frame and use the Descendent DUB crank.
EDIT: for what I t’s worth, I never reuse a pressfit bb that I have to punch out of a frame, unless it’s a high end all metal one like Hambini or BBInfinte, wheels.
The plastic cheap ones like Shimano and SRAM will deform on punch out.
True, but I'm not going to scrap a perfectly good BB just so I can use what is apparently an almost identical crank.
New question: In rideit's 160 mm crank thread one person said that GXP cranks need 0mm offset chainrings, while another person said 3 mm offset Boost chainrings work fine and 0 mm was too far outboard, so should I just get a 3 mm offset chainring? Frame is a 2018 Juliana Strega (SC Nomad), FWIW.
SRAM GXP with 142 (non boost) =6mm offset
SRAM GXP with 148 (boost) =3mm offfset.
SRAM GXP with 157 (Super boost) = 0mm offset.
I think that conversation was regarding a specific brand crank (with GXP spindle) that needs a offset correction.
With SRAM and Truevative (and most cranks) I’d go with the above recommended offset.
Thanks, Dee!
Rear brake pull is deep…. I was just going to do a “quick bleed” shimano style - attach the funnel, fill fluid, flick lever, etc…Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
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Rain is getting here Friday and won't stop until June. Who is the online go to for cheap 27" fenders?
Seeking advice on what to upgrade to reduce brake fade.
Setup
Level T brakes with 180 centerline rotors and resin pads. I'm 165# and had new pads and a fresh bleed a month back. I almost always pedal my way to the top of what I come down. My current setup does me just fine for 90% of my riding but am riding harder trails and starting to notice some declines in stopping power. E.g. last weekend on a 3,000 ft descent I felt like I had lost 30% of my braking power for the bottom third.
Cash is a little tight so would appreciate suggestions on what upgrades would make sense but not be overkill. Thanks
Get larger rotors, less power needed from the brakes for the same amount of stopping. Find some used on craigslist or FB marketplace.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blaster