thanks Mags
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thanks Mags
Yes, there's a short PB option.Quote:
Originally Posted by east or bust
I'm pretty sure that changing the stroke on the Mara Pro is not a DIY job.Quote:
Originally Posted by skaredshtles
Yeah, travel spacers and volume spacers are two different things.
Volume spacers - easy, in air can, generally clip on.
travel spacers,-inside damper between seal head and piston, what top out happens against. So all that has to come apart to get to them.
That's my understanding as well. That said, he's increasing stroke, which means removing the spacers. The spacers aren't hard to get at - its just a matter of opening the air can. Assuming he's going for full stroke, he can just cut the spacer out without going through the full disassembly procedure. Gotta be careful to not scratch up the internals though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dantheman
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^ good point.
Re: Chainlines - the 55 mm CL / 148 rear history is complicated https://theradavist.com/55mm_chainline/ and kinda lame. It reflected a period when 27.5+ and short CS were considered important. Fortunately today there are some options to unfuck things. I encourage you to experiment with thin spacers to see how much you can decrease your CL. Not only will it make backpedaling robust rather than barely acceptable, it will of course increase drivetrain life since it’s the steeep climbing that sees your greatest torque.
The inward angled teeth on the transmission big cog is moderately helpful but frankly it’s lipstick on a pig.
Best way to carry an 18" chainsaw on MTB? Best electric chain saws?
I got my saw cert from USFS so I can help our local MTB association clear trail. I don't have a fatbike or E-bike so will be grinding on my Enduro bike. I have an 18" stihl, but man it would be nice to have one of the good electrics. The FS dude seemed to really like the Husky electric that the FS has purchased some of the last year.
Either the Evoc or Dakine saw pack. Dakine is a bit bigger and can hold more shit, but realistically, unless you're not going very far, you're not gonna want to ride with a bunch of extra crap in the pack.Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
Riding flat or downhill with the saw in a pack is fairly do-able. I find that doing significant climbs on an analog bike with the saw pack is pretty miserable. It's my last resort.
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I have the Dakine and an old Mystery Ranch I use when going light. Keep in mind with the battery saws, you don’t lose weight when the battery goes dead. A small gas saw, you’ll use your fuel and lighten your load. I have a Makita battery saw I like for low profile missions, but mostly use a Husky [emoji639][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]] xp for pedaling. Husky [emoji6[emoji640][emoji637]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji637]]xp is a great current option that’s fairly light and durable. Props man! We need more saws out and about especially with the FS trail crews gutted recently from doge.
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The Evoc saw packs look great, but they’ve been out of stock for a while. I’d like to get a few for our nonprofit to add to the Dakines we have.
I use an old Lowe pack. It's a substantial internal frame backpack. I forget the liters. My entire Milwaukee saw fits inside so I can be stealthy heading into the woods...kinda sorta I guess [emoji16]
I have the dakine builder pack. I wouldn't say its great for carrying a saw but I make it work. I have a 12" ryobi that is kinda fat - seems like small gas saws have a smaller profile. It is a pretty comfortable pack even when loaded down. I carried a saw 3 miles in to a work site yesterday. When riding in I have strapped it down to the old man mountain rack. That worked fine for a long climb up. Descending back down I put it in the pack. That combo seemed to work well.
I got the Dakine was hard to find on-line , even with an E-bike it was a slog up into the bluff
I have the evoc. It carries the saw about as well as I think a pack can. My only real complaint is that the back panel doesn't have much rigidity to it, so it you have oddly shaped stuff in the pack and a saw in the holster, the saw presses everything into your back in a non-optimal way. But on the whole I like the pack a lot and use it quite a bit.Quote:
Originally Posted by evasive_MT
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Half tempted to jam the saw into a contractor bag and stick it in my carbon frame hunting pack. Though I REALLY don't want to get any gas/saw smell on that pack.
This looks pretty nifty. https://www.enduroeng.com/p148232-mtb-bike-chainsaw
I do not think I want all that weight on the front end of an mtn bike^^ and then try to ride it
A cutting buddy would just take the bar off and stuff his saw in a pack to hike it around the hill when we were cutting runs without no bikes
but yeah you are gona get oil and gas all over it so maybe find a well used pack somebody is selling off. Getting oil and gas allover my a brand newDakine builders pack just felt wrong but that what I bought it for
I used a forestry cruising vest to carry oil/ gas/ tools/ chains food water in all the pockets but i don't remeber riding with it
I do also have a 8" dewalt 20v pruning saw. It cuts surprisingly well. I'm tempted to put a 12" bar on it. That plus a long Silky could probably do some damage.
IME the biggets silky big boy can live in my pack 7/24 cuz weight doesnt matter riding the Eeb it gets most of the smaller stems under say 10 inches and its faster than coming back with a real saw
but at some point I need a real saw and a builders pack to get it up the hill
I bought a 6in pruning saw a few months ago. Ryobi. Agree it cuts surprisingly well and carries great in even my regular trail pack (and uses no bar oil). Unfortunately it stopped working mid cut a few days ago. Hopefully they warranty it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
Brake experts! Apologies if this is addressed elsewhere. Google turned up a random assortment of answers.
TRP DH Evo brakes get noisy AF in the rear once they’re warmed up. Burned in rotors and pads as per manufacturer recommendations. I’m on my 3rd set of different pads I’ve tried to quiet them. Currently running MTX gold in the rear, definitely takes the longest to get noisy, but still gets there. I’ve tried sanding/cleaning rotors and pads. I don’t see any mineral oil leaking out of the calipers (read about this happening in some cases). I like the power but, my old code RS brakes were dead quiet and I miss that part about them. Is this normal for these brakes and do I just need to get over it? Maybe look at it as a replacement for a bell for grizzlies and hikers?
Tried to attach a pic of the pistons. I have a suspicion that is the issue. One piston seems to advance well before the others. Tried massaging a little mineral oil in them and realigning. We’ll see if that works.
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you could try take the pads out rough em up with sand paper find a really steep really long hill get a shuttle to the top do a bunch of hard panic stops all the way down, this worked for me on the last set of really noisy cheaper hydro (forget the brand ) brakes on a fat bike
Mtx golds are the loudest pads I've ever used.Quote:
Originally Posted by hick
But switching pad compounds sometimes results in noise. The old pads deposit material on the rotor, and sometimes the new compound doesn't place nice with it. Sanding the rotors should fix that.
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I can't find the "I'm an idiot" thread so this will have to do. For the last few rides I've been fighting with my XT brake lever winding up minorlt too close to the bars. I bled it the other day, still wasn't happy to rebled it today. I forgot to pull the little stopper out of the bleed cup and realized that mineral oil was dripping from an unknown point in my lever. I've got a new lever on the way but I assume I blew a seal riding and just happened to notice it today by forgetting to pull the stopper?
It seems like the force I could exert with a bleed syringe is nothing compared to the forces of braking right?
While I will sand brake pads or even just scuff them on a concrete floor I do not think sanding the disk does much but what you can do is chuck a red sanding disc in your drill and run it against the disc at an angle to sand the disc as it rotates
How sketchy is a short 4" hitch extender with a 2-4" rise? (Hi/low) Hitch is 2" and rack is vertical 5 bike.
As long as you buy a quality hitch extender. Look for one with a rated tongue weight of at least 400lbs.
Figure on a ~15-20% reduction in the rated tongue weight capacity of your hitch. Assuming it's a class 3 (or higher) hitch, you're probably fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Meconium
Aside from the weight rating, also keep in mind that you're adding in a big dumb chunk of metal that has a massive amount of slop in it. Without adding some anti rattle type things, your rack is gonna wobble all over the place.
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I used this Harbor Freight hitch step extender thing for several years, with a North Shore 4-bike vertical rack. Used two U bolt type anti rattle clamps. No problems. This was on the back of a 3/4-ton pickup that saw a fair amount of shuttle dirt road use.
https://www.harborfreight.com/hitch-...MaAr-mEALw_wcB
Ok, I’ll give that a go. Pretty sure I didn’t sand the rotors before putting the mtx golds on. I could switch the reds to the back also and see if that quiets them.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast[emoji638
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If the rotors are smooth rough em' up. I prefer MTX reds cuz they are quiet, I always got some squeal with the gold.
Does the unnecessary skids/rear kick outs when NOT cornering or not needing to dump speed - in every mtb videos for the past decade+ - remind you of some new boot scootin'?
https://youtu.be/Kih_O1JSJ_w
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^^^Perfect reference!! Ha!!
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Wits' end here. Back to brake drag city. I can hear each slot in the rotor as it passes. As you can see my top set of pistons is dialed, the bottom pair is not. Reset the pistons multiple times, give 'em a squeeze and they're back to the same position. Ideas? https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...0b5871aa71.jpg
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Sticky piston seals. The easier thing to try will be cleaning and lubing them. The nuclear option is replacing the piston seals. Are you familiar with how to clean/lube/mobilize them?
Weird, they're like less than 6 months old. I am not, is there a preferred technique?Quote:
Originally Posted by Andeh
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There should be lots of guides online, the idea is the same regardless of brand. But fundamentally what you're going to want to do is fully push back the 2 good pistons and hold them black with a half bleed block. Then the 2 sticky pistons you'll need to either partially block (to ensure you don't accidentally pop them out too far), or very carefully advance them to the same distance they are at with pads + rotor. Then spray the exposed piston sides with isopropyl alcohol and gently scrub/floss around them with a torn piece of shop towel/string/old toothbrush. When you're not getting any more black gunk, drip a tiny bit of brake fluid around the edge of exposed piston, then push the pistons back. Wipe off excess brake fluid. Pull the lever to advance the problem pistons again, taking care not to go too far. Clean them again, lube them again, reseat them again, and repeat until they move smoothly and evenly. End by reseating them, removing the bleed block from the other 2, reseating those, and then cleaning the whole caliper carefully. Then replace pads and wheel, recenter caliper over rotor, and advance pistons to see if they move evenly. If not, try again. If it still fails, you likely need to have the piston seals replaced, which is probably a shop job unless you've got a lot of free time and the right tools.
That does not seem right. Too new for that shit.Quote:
Originally Posted by Huskier
I just bought myself a new boot goofin’ sticker.Quote:
Originally Posted by muted reborn
Did you see the Friday Fail from a few weeks ago where a guy leading a train did a rear wheel kick out and took out the rider behind him, leading to a pile up?
This times a thousand.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast
A new set of MTX Gold with a new set of Magura rotors just about ruined a week at Mountain Creek a couple years ago.
Fuck those pads. Toss them and get Galfer Pros.
I still have the rotors because I’m cheap, and they still warble despite repeated sandings. Much better luck with HStwo and Galfer rotors.
Anyone have a trick for resetting pistons while the pads are installed and the wheel is on the bike?
I once had a pro at a bike park give me shit for flipping the bike over, pulling wheel, pulling pads, and pushing back pistons in the lift line. He acted like he could do it in just a few seconds without all the work, but didn’t tell me how.
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Just flex the rotor over. Grab it on either side of the caliper and pull. It's not moving enough to actually bend the rotor, but it'll push the pistons back a bit. You won't be able to fully reset the pistons, but it'll give enough space for them to sort themselves out.Quote:
Originally Posted by jm2e
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