Inserts with a jig and SlideWright tools done on the hill.
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Inserts with a jig and SlideWright tools done on the hill.
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Nice. The on-the-snow shop gives it that special pro look.
And the only thing I need a guide for is the tap -- that thing wobbles when I breath on it. Impressive you don't.
I've done three so far this season and they've all been fine.
Mounted a pair of fucking tele planks this morning. Picked up the minty Megawatts from gearswap. Third (freehand) mount of the season, can't wait to get out on them!
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In the kitchen for that special pro look.
Good deal on those MegaWatts.
^^^^
Nice.
Curious as to how many apply thread locker to the inserts vs to the screws? More often than not, it gets down to banging out a swap with no time or desire to re-apply Vibra Tite to the screws. Re-applying to the insert threads in 'skis in-waiting' can be done anytime and let the threadlocker cure and doesn't require pulling the screws from bindings, painting them, setting them out to dry and then re-installation.
First, wiping the insert threads with some alcohol on a q-tip seems like a good idea.
Are you intimating that you're supposed to let Vibra Tite dry on the screw? Before you put the screw into an insert? I've always just done it when the threadlocker is still wet; I guess I've been doing it wrong?Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpinord
My understanding is that Vibra-tite needs to dry and Loctite goes in wet. If I'm using Loctite, I put a small drop in each insert. If I'm using Vibratite, I paint the screw threads, but I like the idea of putting a drop in the insert.
Vibra-Tite is supposed to air dry to touch first. It really only takes a few minutes unless there's lots of humidity or cold. The directions say 10-30 minutes depending on part size.
Rather than simply dropping some in the insert, I'd want to make sure the threads are coated. A Q-tip might be the call to work Vibra-Tite into the threads for the 5ml tubes. The 30cc bottle has a brush.
Well fuck. I attempted to mount Ions tonight and aborted.
I printed the template at work, didn't check the scale which was off about 4-5%. I tried taking measurements and drawing it out on tape off the centerline but it isn't looking right. Ultimately these will be inserts so i can share the bindings with other skis, and I just don't want tech bindings off, crooked, etc.
Anyone have a G3 jig or jigarex + Ion plates near Denver available for quick use?
Otherwise I'll re-print templates during the week, and try again.
Mounted a pair of Rossi FKS last night using an OEM jig from the 70's that I bought from a fellow mag. I had to remove the centering clamps since it only supports ~80 mm super wide skis, but it's still easy to use. Once the bsl is set and locked, I only have to center the jig and set the fore/aft position, and then drill away. Nice...
For Mags in SLC I have a Jiga Rex with Salomon STH 2 / Driver toe template and the STH2 - Z models that have the three screw and four screw mount pattern. PM me if you want to borrow it.Quote:
Originally Posted by flowing alpy
I've got ion plates in Frisco if you're around.Quote:
Originally Posted by N1CK.
Great. Thank you! Pm sent.Quote:
Originally Posted by jvskinn
Have used a stepped 1/4" bit to for inserts for some half a year or so but it is an older bit designed for QK inserts (so it doesn't go to the right depth). So I finally upgraded to the one SVST put together for BF inserts. First time, it gave me a peep hole right through the ski. Fuck! Repaired with a hard wood dowel piece, 24-hour epoxy, and ptex on the base. Anyone have success with the 1/4" stepped bit put out by BF/SVST? Could mine just be a freak that was defectively machined?
are you leaning down on the drill?
i went a little deep when I was trying to push to get through the metal layer, but, if you just let the bit do the work, its shoulder should be enough to halt you up in time
Yes, though didn't seem excessive and no more than previously -- aiming for just enough to get the bit to countersink, which in this case was just enough to punch through the ski. I'll experiment on scrap, I guess. And, in the meantime, use the damn stop collar for a 1/4" bit.Quote:
Originally Posted by acinpdx
I've done two mounts this season using the stepped bit for inserts. Bought it direct from BindingFreedom along with their drill guide block. No problems, no over drilling. 32 perfect holes for inserts.
Yeah, me thinks I have a bad bit. Did some test holes and it's pretty easy to punch through a 2x4 without much pressure (and requires a lot of force with another 1/4" stepped bit that I tried).
Bummer dschane. The BF bit and the SVST bit are the same one made by SVST like all of their reliable stepped drill bits.
I've never trusted the mere 1/32" shoulder on the step from the 5/16" to 1/4". I use and always recommend using a stop collar in conjunction with the bit as if it is essentially a straight bit. IMO, it is too easy for it to grab and drive down, especially if there is a metal top sheet.
Are you mounting a women's ski? I've had several women's skis that were 'thin'.
Great advice, and I'll do that. I've never repaired a peep hole, so chalk this up to meaningful life skilz.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpinord
No, sadly, these were some bomber Praxis Rx's. Fortunately, they are my skis, so the fuck up is on me and I can live with it. The base is now smooth and, as far as it matters, good as new.Quote:
Originally Posted by Timberridge
Any advice on mounting dynafit radical toe pieces?
Using jigarex with radical jig. Mounted a half dozen vertical/tlt toes (5 screw pattern) with paper templates and jigarex without problem with the toe pieces lining up with heel. With recent radical mount with jigarex, one toe piece was off by a few mil, so the boot doesn't fall cleanly into the heel piece. Obviously this may just be human error. But it seems without that fifth center hole to triangulate, the toe piece is more apt to be misaligned. Thoughts?
Did you try loosening the screws holding the toe in, then using the boot to match up the heel of the boot with the heel piece prior to tightening? Haven't mounted Radicals but I think you can access the front two screws while the boot is in the binding.
John - I did try that. It helped a little. These skis are the way they are and I doubt I'll notice the misalignment much (the heel pins miss the grooves by 2-3mm). Mostly curious if people use any particularly anal retentive techniques when mounting to avoid this.