I know the kid who drilled the spoke holes for the we-are-one, apparently it was so mind numbing he realized he need to get a life
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I know the kid who drilled the spoke holes for the we-are-one, apparently it was so mind numbing he realized he need to get a life
Reserve aluminum wheelsets are cheap ($700ish) and come with the same lifetime warranty.
I think I got Ex541s for my rail, but also with DT350 hubs. Solid wheel set and I think I paid $800. Got a Reserve rear wheel with DT350 a while back for my Spur and have been happy with it. Jenson had a killer sale so it was only $400. They still had a few on sale but pretty narrow rims and center lock.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Tire overlap question: Anybody encounter a defective sidewall? I just put on a brand new double down Maxxis that won't hold air. Went over my tape with a fine tooth comb, perfect. Valve, perfect. I took to spraying the whole thing with soapy water to try to troubleshoot and I count at least 8 pinhole bubblers Right smack dab in the middle of the sidewall. I've encountered damage from rim strikes but this...like there's no physical damage to the tire. It's like it just decided to become... porous. The texture of the rubber on the sidewall is also wrinkly and weird. How does one go about proving to the retailer It wasn't user error? Literally mild one break-in ride....
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WTB tires do this by design. I've often found that letting them sit for a few days with some extra sealant in them will seal the sidewalls, but sometimes not. Sometimes it has worked to put them flat so that the sealant pools where the holes are. Maxxis shouldn't do this, though, so it's probably worth a warranty effort.Quote:
Originally Posted by Huskier
I've been a DD fanboi and they are usually pretty good at holding air but I always put in a few ounces of Stan's fluid so you can see the pinholes right away so did you use any ??
I had the same issue and didn’t want to replace the whole brake set. I went with [emoji638][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]]] front hs[emoji638] rotors and gold mtx pads rear, red mtx pads front. I got along with them great after those changes.Quote:
Originally Posted by grskier;[emoji[emoji6[emoji640
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Fuckin emojis. Read, bigger rotors.
Rival ASX, left crank arm power meter. Seems like a great deal for $300 or so. Any known problems? Yes, I'm aware of it being 1 side measuring.
Good and reliable. They don’t need to be calibrated/zero set very often. You can set it and forget itQuote:
Originally Posted by Iowagriz
Battery life can seem short, but it’s an easy AAA swap out. Just use a good Li-ion battery.
My personal bikes are all Shimano so I have Stages, 4iii and even a lousy Shimano built in PM. But a bunch of my clients use the SRAM single sided crank/spindle option. No issues with any of them. No chain stay clearance issues with the electronics inside the spindle. AXS app is easy to see battery level and to zero offset, they connect/integrate with Garmin or Wahoo head units easily.
Would buy.
Thanks Dee
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Hey guys. I’m starting to think about upgrading my current mountain bike. I currently ride a Santa Cruz Nomad 2018 aluminum 4th series with base 1x11 drivetrain and 27.5 wheels. The thing is a blast downhill, but it is 37 lbs, and is a slog to ride uphill. I like the slack headtube, but the slack seat tube isn’t my style. I like to ride more forward on my bike. I’m thinking there must be a sporty 29er out there that feels faster uphill and is still fun downhill. What brands and models should I look at? Is around $4000 for a slightly used bike realistic? Thanks in advance!
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Altitude
I might have a very, very suitable bike for sale, in fact, I could customize it in a number of ways.
I have a near mint ‘22 Rocky Altitude frame (Med, fits ~5’7” to 5’10”, generally).
This is my third Altitude in the stable, and honestly, it was always the third wheel. I estimate this bike has been ridden possibly 10-12 times (Frame).
I have it set up with the Instinct shock mount, but with a slightly longer shock, so roughly 150mm rear
As it sits now: (29” x 29”) OR we could do it as an MX (27.5”rear)
NEW:
Cane Creek Helm 160
Cane Creek Kitsuma, 150mm (best they make)
Items with a few rides on it:
XT or XTR shifter (+$70)
XTR four pot brakes
XTR rear derailluer
XTR chain (near new)
XT cassette (10-52)
Fox Transfer seatpost (needs a bleed) (or new One-Up v2, 210mm, +$150)
Wheelset:
Currently DT 240s, Light Bike carbon rims, db DT spokes, (custom built)
Tires: your choice, I have options. (Generally Maxxis Assegai, Dissectors, Rekons)
XTR 170 OR 165 cranks, (well loved, but still 100% strong/etc) your choice of 28 or 30 Absolute Black chainrings
OR Brand New SRAM GX 165 cranks with brand new 32 chainrings (+$230)
OR Race Face Carbon 170mm cranks. (28, 30t chainring options)
New Shimano BB
2 or three saddles to choose from
A few stem lengths to choose from (35mm, 40mm, 45mm, IIRC)
Brand new grips, likely Race Face, some other options
I built this as my flagship Trail style bike, but I generally prefer my coil-over big bike, or ebike)
This thing is crazy light, strong, and customizable.
It can be convertible to 160 rear, (w/Fox X2 Air, + $130)
I can share pics via text.
Basically a bike addict’s ridiculous showpiece, but it’s time to sell a bike I just don’t use.
Range: $3800-$4200, depending on components/etc.
Transition sentinel or spire would be my pick. Good geo, reasonably light, simple, no propriety crap, less expensive than the Gucci brands.
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Rideit, that sounds great, but I would need a large frame though. I’m 6’1”.
Toast, I did a test ride on a Sentinel about 5 years ago and agree that does sound like a good option as the first thing I noticed was the more comfortable more upright seat tube angle.
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Additional notes:
Geo on the Altitude is hugely changeable, different chainstay lengths, travel, kinematics, etc.
Just weighed it, a hair over 30 lbs, with a DD Dissector rear, 203/180 rotors, etc.
This thing is amazing, I’m having second thoughts!
(With all of the different options, I realized that this could range from $3800-$4800, realistically.)
Where are you?
I travel a lot!
https://bikes.com/pages/ride-9-adjus...eT_qh0QEDAIO7A
Boo, you know we shrink as we get older, right? ;-)
Well, anyone else?
And 5 years ago was probably a V1 sentinel. The newer ones are even better.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerome
The V3 sentinel just got released this spring. Might be a good time to find a deal on a used V2. IMO, the V3 didn't make any "must have" changes compared to the 2.
At 6'1", you'd probably be happy on an XL (I'm 5'9" on a large, although I tend to like bigger bikes). Transition has V2 sentinels on closeout on their website for $4k (carbon frame, gx build) and it looks like they have some XL's left. Probably worth a look.
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I did exactly as Toast suggested for you, but earlier this spring. I’m 6’1” and bought a new gen 2 Sentinel gx for $3800 shipped to my door. Too good to pass up. I haven’t ridden it a ton yet, but have enjoyed it so far. Seems like it will be a solid bike. Fits very similar to the Stumpy Evo s5 I sold (loved that bike!).Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerome
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Someone in this thread had posted a great list of the priority of bike tools to buy a few years ago. EWG maybe? I've dug around to try to find it but you know how the search function works around here.
I'm trying to help a friend get set up but am too lazy to think for myself right now.
Just want to throw it out there that everyone should try the radial tires from Schwalbe. Been running the magic mary/albert radial combo on my bigger bike and it's quite titties. Even at pressures closer to 30, it grips like it's low 20's. The side knob traction when laying it over is phenomenal too
Rideit, I’m in Sacramento for the next month, then moving full time to Truckee. So close to you, maybe?
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Hick, did you get the large or extra-large Sentinel frame? I prefer a frame to not feel too large
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I’ll keep my ears open, I work in two shops, and have good relations with pretty much all of theme here in JH.
Anyone know if shock dimensions change with frame size? For instance, Transition specifies Medium on all their spec lists, but is that just for weight?
And to follow up, if a frame specs a 205x62.5 shock, wouldn’t a 205x60 work on there?
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Shock specs are almost universally consistent between frame sizes.205x60 will work in a frame designed for 205x62.5, but you'll lose a little travel and maybe some bottom-out resistance depending on how much progressivity there is in the linkage design. Also, you can almost surely mod the 205x60 to 205x62.5. There's usually just a spacer in there that limits the stroke. In some shocks this can be DIY'ed pretty easily, while others require a full service from a pro. If the latter just have it done the next time it's due for a rebuild.
Sweet, good to know.
My buddy just got a Sentinel and I’m hoping I can finally offload the Mara Pro that has been collecting dust for a year and a half because it doesn’t fit my Enduro frame.
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Got it. Can't DIY the stroke change in a Mara Pro, but he'll only lose 6 mm of travel running 205x60 vs. 205x62.5. Mara Pro has great bottom out resistance so it will probably be unnoticeable. Going the other way sometimes works but the extra travel can cause problems on a frame-specific basis.
Dammit - now I am thinking about buying a Mara Pro for my Trance, which is 185 x 52.5. Hayes has them on sale right now for $252.
What size? I am about to come out of a size Large 2 year old Evil Offering LS with a completely brand new component spec. It is the current model frame with XT drivetrain, Fox Factory 36 X2/Factory FloatX, DB8 brakes,DT 1900 wheels - All brand new $3800Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerome
Just to add, shock spec rarely changes with frame size, but shock clearance sometimes will. With transitions, you'd mostly just need to worry about large piggybacks running into the downtube on smaller sizes at full bottom out. I've heard of issues with certain shocks on the Spur. Don't recall hearing about issues on any other tranny frames, but they may exist.Quote:
Originally Posted by east or bust
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I went XL. But, I have long arms and inseam. I’d say downsize to a large if you don’t want to long. Maybe someone has one you can sit on. The XL is more maneuverable than I thought it would be though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerome;[emoji[emoji6[emoji640
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Do it. Do it now. That's barely more than doing a full service on your current shock. A lot of people here have bought the Mara Pro and I can't think of one person who didn't love it. Check that they have the right tune, though.Quote:
Originally Posted by skaredshtles
Water bottles can also be a problem. My frame technically holds a full size bottle, but not with a piggyback shock.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
This reminds me, isn’t there a slightly shorter (~12mm) PB for the Mara Pro?
They just have one listed in the parts section on their website but doesn’t clarify if it’s the short or long one.
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The only remaining size they had was 185x50, which is a shorter stroke than my bike came with stock. Fortunately, I was informed that the 50 is the same as the 52.5 and 55 except with a couple volume reducers installed. So I've ordered the 50 and will crack it open and remove one... perhaps both of the added spacers.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dantheman
Thanks alot, Dan, for prompting me to spend more money. My wife will be annoyed. :tongue:
How annoying is the chain angle/cross angle with 55mm chainline cranks with normal 148mm rear end and 12-spd cassette. Specifically, shimano m8120 cranks, 30t chainring, 10-51 cassette, 440 chainstay. CS clearance is just a bit too tight to go with the 8100 cranks. I’m removing a sram transmission which we all know is designed around 55mm with the cassette just smidge pushed out.
I do spend a lot of time in 1st and 2nd gear. Will backpedaling be a problem? I feel like we're back in time to the 1x conversion era.
Realistically fine, but depending on your bb width, I think there's a 2.5 mm spacer that goes on the crank spindle on the drive side. You could shift that to the non drive and see if the chainring still clears. If it doesn't, you can get thin spacers (wheels manufacturing makes them) to mix and match to dial in your chainline.Quote:
Originally Posted by g_man80
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I did this for awhile with a sram setup. Backpedaling in first is rough, but as long as it was tuned well 2nd was no problem. It wasn’t bad enough to bother changing it up until I wanted shorter cranks anyways. Not totally ideal but can for sure live with it.
Thanks. BB is 73mm, so there will be one 2.5mm spacer on the drive side between the frame and BB. If I go with M8100, no additional spacers, so no additional adjustments. If I go M8120, I'll have two 3mm spindle spacers (one on each side). As mentioned, I could use the Wheels Mfg. thin spacers to bring the drive side crank back towards center a smidge (e.g., 2mm spacer on DS and 4mm spacer on non-DS, resulting in a 54mm chainline).
Honestly, I am probably over thinking it. Last night I installed a regular mechanical SRAM eagle drivetrain with normal DUB cranks (not DUB wide) and a 32t chainring. The chainring clears okay, but what is giving me pause is how close the chain is to the chainstay where it swoops up toward the main pivot. It does have a nice rubber plastic protector, so I do not think it will get chewed up as the chain bounces around. Of course dropping down to the 30t will lower the chain a bit closer to the chainstay. I would share pic, but the forum is fussy right now.
It is worth nothing that the manufacturer specs the M8120, 30t cranks on their Shimano builds. It would appear they prefer to protect the chainstay and get by with a less than ideal chain angle. There are plenty of other manufactures doing the same (e.g., Ibis Ripley V4S shimano builds have 20 series cranks with 55mm chainline and 148 rear, and those have a very short chainstay).
This is a job where you will need to call all the shops to see who has the tools.Quote:
Originally Posted by SJG
The tools needed are expensive, and are usually in old school shops that faced and chased bottom brackets and head tubes on metal bikes back in the day.
And you need a PF92 (41mm) reaming tool, which was not a common standard when these old school shops bought these tools. Many shops have not bought the modern fittings/cutters for their tools to fix the modern BB standards.
To put it in perspective they need the main tool ($500), and specific to your BB size reamer ($153) facer ($175) centering cone ($35) reamer stop ($14) pilot ($10).
Only 1 or 2 of those cheaper parts translates to multiple BB sizes, so that $200-325 per BB standard that needs to be reamed (6 sizes).
AND then you need to find a mechanic you trust performing a non reversible reaming (cutting material out) process.
Good luck, choose wisely.
I’ve got my preferences on local shops and it’s usually not Contender but for this I would try them. I had them face my rear brake posts down on two bikes and am happy with the results. They’re the only shop I contacted who had the tools and didn’t flinch at the job. It was routed to their chief mechanic who’s been around for along time. They also have the money to be able to potentially have these tools on hand.