Ask the experts

^^^Those things are on my radar but not quite there in terms of speed/weight/size to switch me over from just carrying a 24g CO2 and a mini-pump for backup. Although if was confident enough in it to ditch the mini pump that would be the difference. Id guess it would seat any tire a floor pump will but I use my pancake compressor for that because its so fast and easy.


VPM I have the cheapest Home Depot house brand Porter Cable 6 gal pancake compressor. Ive had it for over 20 years, I think it was $199 with two finish nailers and 30 ft hose. I use it to seat tubeless tires because its fast and easy, to top off my car tires, to blow out air filters for car or shop vacs, etc. Also have used it for the small nailers and riveter. No issues handling all that stuff but it wouldnt keep up with a framing nailer or air impact tools. I still use my floor pump with gauge for daily top ups. I bought a nicer presta filler for it but Im not aware of an accurate gauge setup. The 1/4 inch connectors are easy, I did have to buy it separate when I bought my riveter, it was cheap. Only caveat to using mine is its loud AF when it cycles, like you want hearing protection if youre close. If you leave tool attached itll leak and cycle pretty often, like several times/day. With hose and no tool it's not near as often like maybe once every 2-3 days? Maybe if I took my hose off it would hold air longer/indefinitely but I keep it under a table and its kind a pain to access that. If its inside your house you dont want it cycling so youll leave it off and then when you want to use it itll run for a long time to fill, which is annoying. If you got a quiet one these issues would be much better but I bet it would still wake you up if it cycles.


TLDR: nice to have for a variety of tasks, doesnt replace a quality floor pump with accurate gauge.

Rather than stressing over having an accurate gauge on your pump / compressor, I'd suggest just getting one of the nice small digital pressure gauges. That way you can take it with you on trips, long rides, etc. and always be able to get to whatever pressure works for you. It doesn't matter if that gauge is accurate, just consistent. Overfill with whatever pump/compressor you're using and bleed off pressure to your target with the digital gauge.

I have seen other companies rebadge/ different paint those Beto floor pumps and charge 2x as much for them so since they were only 25can$ at the MEC I just bought 2 or 3 of them my take on the guage is if always use the same Beto floor pump I always have the same mount of Beto ft lbs of air in the tire I have never failed to seat a tubeless with a floor pump but then I only run Maxxis

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Originally Posted by Andeh

Rather than stressing over having an accurate gauge on your pump / compressor, I'd suggest just getting one of the nice small digital pressure gauges. That way you can take it with you on trips, long rides, etc. and always be able to get to whatever pressure works for you. It doesn't matter if that gauge is accurate, just consistent. Overfill with whatever pump/compressor you're using and bleed off pressure to your target with the digital gauge.

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This ^^
I don't trust the analog gauge on my floor pump at all. I bleed off to the right pressure with a digital Topeak gauge.

Stoked to see cable transmission from Sram. Thought about ordering but sounds like it shifts slow just like the electronic transmission. It's not a terrible thing but especially during races I like to be able to dump gears much faster, so I'm going to wait for wireless shimano this spring.

My main garage floor pump gauge seems fairly accurate but at least it's consistent, and incidentally also consistent with digital and my travel floor pump. Alas it's dead after ten years and can't get parts so ordered a new one with digital gauge. We'll see how it compares.If nothing else the small compressors would be great for the car. Garage too I guess.

well of course as long as you used your garage pump it gave you the same " my garage pump pressure "

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Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong

This ^^
I don't trust the analog gauge on my floor pump at all. I bleed off to the right pressure with a digital Topeak gauge.

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I haven't really noticed any difference in consistency between the various analog and digital gauges I have. They all read different, and some are clearly way off, but they're at least consistent with themselves. For a rear tire on my trail bike, I know that I want 18 psi on my specialized pump, 25 psi on my bontrager pump, and 24 psi with my handheld gauge. That's roughly the same actual pressure (and, at a guess, the bontrager is probably closest to the actual pressure).

But really the point is that it makes these online pressure calculators extra useless. Aside from the fact that I've never found one that gives a realistic pressure for me, I don't trust any of the consumer level gauges to give an actual, accurate pressure reading.

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yeah i def want to get a nice handheld gauge with this purchase, yeah the noise thing i've been warned about before as well, definitely liking these california air stuff or even some of the big brands rebadge as far as i can tell? anyway, great discussion thanks to all

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Originally Posted by toast2266

I haven't really noticed any difference in consistency between the various analog and digital gauges I have. They all read different, and some are clearly way off, but they're at least consistent with themselves. For a rear tire on my trail bike, I know that I want 18 psi on my specialized pump, 25 psi on my bontrager pump, and 24 psi with my handheld gauge. That's roughly the same actual pressure (and, at a guess, the bontrager is probably closest to the actual pressure). But really the point is that it makes these online pressure calculators extra useless. Aside from the fact that I've never found one that gives a realistic pressure for me, I don't trust any of the consumer level gauges to give an actual, accurate pressure reading. Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

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My floor pump is just *obviously* wrong at low pressures, and doesn't match the digital gauge, so I just use the digital gauge for everything, road or mountain.

I do find the SRAM calculator gives a good recommended pressure for MTB. Maybe adjust 1-2 psi, but a close starting point for me.

Back to beating the dead horse of braking: Down country bike. 203 rotors f/r: Insanity? Will subbing a slightly smaller rotor out back get me more life out of the Rekon running out back? I feel like I'm beefing up brakes to ride steeper shit and I'm just gonna end up skidding my rear down the increasingly poor choices being made, thus rendering the upgrade moot.

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I think 180mm rotors with 29” wheels is insanity even if you are not bombing enduro tracks, but then again you and I live out west where even the “downcountry” / deep backcountry rides have decent descents.

If your descents are long enough to get the brakes hot, bigger rotors are worthwhile. Regardless of how steep they are, if the descents are short, smaller rotors are fine.

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I don't use 200/203 mm rotors on the rear of any bike.

I don't do any lift served DH riding, and the biggest travel bike I have is a 150/130 bike, but I've never felt like I needed gigantic rear rotors. Downieville and similar shuttle rides are probably the longest sustained descent rides I do.

Good calipers, however, are a necessity. (IOW, not SRAM.) YMMV etc.

You're running a Rekon? That's a great tire, but xc. Run a DHR if you need brake control on steeps. No skidding with brake modulation and much more control.

203 on the front for sure, including my Spur. That's where most of your braking power comes from and worth it for dissipating heat if not more power.


On the back 203 has always seemed like overkill except for a DH/park bike. I run 160 or 180 on the rear but more because they're cheaper than any other reason. Can't see changing sizes making enough difference to change the life of a tire. Most time on descents I'm using the rear to help control the bike, not generate a ton of braking power.

I’ve been putting bigger thicker rotors in the back.
I’m not trying to manage power, my Shimano four pot brakes offer plenty of power regardless.
But I’m a back brake dragger. And if you’re worried about wearing out your XC tire you’re probably a back brake dragger too. And back brake dragging on long downhills leads to warped rotors. And warped rotors make noise and wear out pads.
So yea, for me the bigger rear rotor has worked well.


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People also need to think more specifically about what their unique brake situation is.
If your primary terrain is a lot of up and down with punchy climbs and thirty second downhills, your brakes aren’t heating up. You can still be a complete badass, and this should not affect the pissing contest. But it is different from someone doing three to ten minute sustained downhills with continuous braking. That scenario doesn’t make you a badass and shouldn’t automatically give you props for the pissing contest because it could just be a long dirt road. But it certainly puts a different kind of strain on rotors.
Think about your application.


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^^^ that.

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I'm looking at buying a 2-3 yr old Fox 38 (Grip 2 damper) that was never used according to the seller. Will the oil and seals still be good, or do you think it'll require a refresh?

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I run 203 rotors front and back on my hardtail for this but with 2 piston xt brakes, it is not overkill for our area if you ride any longer descents and it feels lacking compared to the 220/200 dominions on my big bike. &nbsp;Plant of long smooth descents here to justify it &nbsp;</p>
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Originally Posted by Huskier

Back to beating the dead horse of braking: Down country bike. 203 rotors f/r: Insanity? Will subbing a slightly smaller rotor out back get me more life out of the Rekon running out back? I feel like I&#39;m beefing up brakes to ride steeper shit and I&#39;m just gonna end up skidding my rear down the increasingly poor choices being made, thus rendering the upgrade moot. Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

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Originally Posted by smmokan

I'm looking at buying a 2-3 yr old Fox 38 (Grip 2 damper) that was never used according to the seller. Will the oil and seals still be good, or do you think it'll require a refresh?

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I bet it'll be fine. Probably sticky for the first ride or two, but it'll loosen up.

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^^* especially if you run a 180mm rotor up front, heat transfer will get the oil running smoothly /s


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Standing bike storage question We do not have any good space in the garage to hang bikes, so looking at a floor rack so that they are not just leaning on each other in a corner. Came across this: https://www.amazon.com/BirdRock-Home...dp/B0853DPM6L/ (reviewed well on outdoorgearlab and gets good reviews on amazon). Additional options? Do not really want to DIY. Have 4 mtbs (2 with 29 wheels, 2 with 26) with tires ranging from 1.9 to 2.5, and one road bike. Also have a cruiser but that has a kickstand. :) If I went with the above one, would probably get a 3 and a 2 rack.</p>

Whether or not you buy on or go DIY, the questions are whether it’ll fit an MTB tire and a [emoji638][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji637]]]er wheel.


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On a downcountry bike, I think 200/180 are the good front/back sizes. Those bikes tend to have stiffer suspension and less brake squat, so with a Rekon, a tire not known for its braking dominance after the first ride, a bigger rotor would tend to skid and stand the bike up a bit.


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Originally Posted by Danno

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Standing bike storage question We do not have any good space in the garage to hang bikes, so looking at a floor rack so that they are not just leaning on each other in a corner. Came across this: https://www.amazon.com/BirdRock-Home...dp/B0853DPM6L/ (reviewed well on outdoorgearlab and gets good reviews on amazon). Additional options? Do not really want to DIY. Have 4 mtbs (2 with 29 wheels, 2 with 26) with tires ranging from 1.9 to 2.5, and one road bike. Also have a cruiser but that has a kickstand. :) If I went with the above one, would probably get a 3 and a 2 rack.</p>

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I've seen some vertical freestanding bike racks too - seems like that could save some more floor space. Basically same function as if you put big hooks in the wall or ceiling.

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OK Fork nerds. I upgraded my FIT4 Stepcast 34 120mm to a new GRIP SL Damper. I ordered directly from Fox and packaging says 120mm Stepcast 34. Spent more time than I&#39;d like to admit getting the Push to Lock remote to function appropriately. After much frustration, got it to function as I&#39;d like. Set out on a driveway spin to test. 1. Fork top out extremely harshly - no matter the pressure or rebound damping settings (unless molasses slow) 2. Fork pressure needs to be very low to get ANY sag. I&#39;m currently at 50psi which is lower than the lowest recommended. Felt like there was no pressure in the negative spring. Pulled the top cap on the airspring and couldn&#39;t see the dimple to equalize pressure. Measured the full travel with no pressure and got 100mm Pulled the lowers, cleaned everything and re-greased. With only the Air-spring attached via the bottom stud, (e.g. damper shaft not attached to the lowers): I get 120mm of travel I can see the equalizing dimple The stud of the damper does not show through the hole in the lower to thread on the nut After compressing the fork and screwing the nut onto the damper stud I get 100mm of travel I cannot see the dimple. Did I somehow get a damper that&#39;s too short? It seems they make a 100mm Stepcast 32 GRIP SL damper. I don&#39;t know if they make a 100mm Stepcast 34 GRIP SL damper. I&#39;d love for it to be something else because I don&#39;t want to go through the exchange and reinstall hassle and I was really looking forward to riding with warm weather this week.</p>

Nevermind - The new damper isn't compatible with my model year. Whoops.

Anyone need a GRIP SL Damper for a Stepcast 34 that's not 1st Gen?

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Originally Posted by Danno

Standing bike storage question We do not have any good space in the garage to hang bikes, so looking at a floor rack so that they are not just leaning on each other in a corner. Came across this: https://www.amazon.com/BirdRock-Home...dp/B0853DPM6L/ (reviewed well on outdoorgearlab and gets good reviews on amazon). Additional options? Do not really want to DIY. Have 4 mtbs (2 with 29 wheels, 2 with 26) with tires ranging from 1.9 to 2.5, and one road bike. Also have a cruiser but that has a kickstand. :) If I went with the above one, would probably get a 3 and a 2 rack.

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I&#39;ve been using the Wilworx stands ever since my bike shop days. Excellent quality and low cost.

Good to know. I just bought these to try out: https://a.co/d/1KXo1pQ

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Originally Posted by joetron

On a downcountry bike, I think 200/180 are the good front/back sizes. Those bikes tend to have stiffer suspension and less brake squat, so with a Rekon, a tire not known for its braking dominance after the first ride, a bigger rotor would tend to skid and stand the bike up a bit.


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Yeah this is the direction I ended up going and is perfectly adequate, no hit in performance that I can tell. Skinny rotor out back too. Although I will ask a stupid question: I thought the benefit of a bigger rotor was to increase the effective moment arm of the brake relative to the hub, thus increasing stopping power and ability to modulate? Is this not true?

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Originally Posted by Huskier

Yeah this is the direction I ended up going and is perfectly adequate, no hit in performance that I can tell. Skinny rotor out back too. Although I will ask a stupid question: I thought the benefit of a bigger rotor was to increase the effective moment arm of the brake relative to the hub, thus increasing stopping power and ability to modulate? Is this not true? Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

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More power, yes.

More modulation is probably more personal. It can be hard to modulate if a brake is too powerful since it is overly sensitive, but it can also be hard to modulate if the brake is too weary, forcing you to squeeze the lever very hard.
Larger rotors also have more thermal mass as well as more surface area, so they run cooler.
In the automotive world rotor size is chosen for the required cooling, and then the calipers (piston area) are sized to provide the required braking torque.
I have had the thought before that for guys who drag their rear brake and overheat their rotor it could make sense to run a really large rotor with a two pistons caliper. Wonder if anyone has ever tried that.

My AXS dropper wouldn't stay up with weight. Just was going up an down. I didn't know if it was mechanical or electronic. Checking the app my battery was almost toast. Got home and changed the battery and good as new. I ASSumed if the battery died the thing would just lock in the up or down position. I didn't think the thing would act like a yo-yo.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...c1ae0593ec.jpg

Really it just stays open with a dead controller? I had mine die once and I used the button on the seat to operate the valve, put it in the up position and went on my semi-merry way. Then I taped a pod battery in my downtube somewhere to avoid that experience.

My Lyric Ultimate makes a clunk. Sounds like a spring knocking inside the stanchion but its air. A breif Google brings up results from 2017, but nothing current, anyone know anything?

Yeah - That seatpost thing is odd. I've ridden with someone who had a R. Der die so they they switched the battery with the dropper and the dropped stayed up without issue.

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Originally Posted by Yukonrider

My Lyric Ultimate makes a clunk. Sounds like a spring knocking inside the stanchion but its air. A breif Google brings up results from 2017, but nothing current, anyone know anything?

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Could it be a loose volume token?</p>

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Originally Posted by Yukonrider

My Lyric Ultimate makes a clunk. Sounds like a spring knocking inside the stanchion but its air. A breif Google brings up results from 2017, but nothing current, anyone know anything?

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Can you tell that it's coming from the air side? Clunking in the damper is (maybe) easier to explain.

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Originally Posted by Yukonrider

Really it just stays open with a dead controller? I had mine die once and I used the button on the seat to operate the valve, put it in the up position and went on my semi-merry way. Then I taped a pod battery in my downtube somewhere to avoid that experience.

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Yeah, when I was missing with it I did get it to lock in the high position, but I kept pushing buttons trying to make it work. I had no time to actually try to figure it out.
This is my xc so I set it at max efficiency height for flat road riding to a trail. I pretty much never ride it at max on dirt, so locked up would not be good anyway. Again, I was assuming if the battery was dead that would happen. Also, app showing battery life but it still doesn't work kinda sucks too. Like having a gas gauge tell ya you've got an 1/8th of tank an run out [emoji16]