I do this with one of my boots/shoes. I put a piece of double sided tape in there so it doesn’t move from where I put it.Quote:
Originally Posted by SchralphMacchio
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I do this with one of my boots/shoes. I put a piece of double sided tape in there so it doesn’t move from where I put it.Quote:
Originally Posted by SchralphMacchio
No, but I was working on a dyno a while back. I think to be accurate enough for reliable comparisons in Watts it needs to be pretty precise--not to imply that's impossible, it just precludes a lot of simple approaches that might be attractive for the homebuilder.Quote:
Originally Posted by Huskier
Maybe it's easier to cobble something together if you only compare results of things you test personally, so the absolute numbers don't have to be perfect. Do you have something in mind?
I like the Fox Union, it fits too wide for my Giro feet but I'm able to make it work. Also have a skinny hind foot and heel and they seem to work ok there.
When I did this it fucked up my ski boot insoles so now I just use generic Blue Superfeet. I grind the heel way down all around so my heel sits down in the heel pocket. Also the outside part of the plastic support. Basically just keep the big arch support area.Quote:
Originally Posted by SchralphMacchio
So your complaint is that your gravel e-bike tires feel sluggish? Hahaha I don't know where to begin with this.Quote:
Originally Posted by Huskier
Also Specialized gaslighting? Shocking. It's their business model.
Any particular model Lakes I should be looking at? I tried the MX242s and the rear half of the shoe was cavernous on me.Quote:
Originally Posted by climberevan
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That doesn't sound right. These guys measure more like an 8 watt difference (gravel about double the road tires resistance):Quote:
Originally Posted by Huskier
https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/
The 238 is the right balance of cost/performance for me (I have 3pr). I use Sole insoles in them, which take up space and support the foot so I can really crank down the Boas. Did you try heat molding the heel of the 242?Quote:
Originally Posted by MegaStoke
My gf likes the 332, which has a tighter heel and narrower toe box (so you just get the "wide" model to get the width you need). Look carefully at their different lasts and the measurements.
I have three different Lakes, mountain, road. and winter fat bike, and they all are a slightly different size. (Just reiterating that you need to look at their fit charts pretty closely.) I also sent an email or two to confirm (after I had one that fit), which others would fit similarly.
I think it depends on where you are on Randy Newman's continuum of people who have no reason to live, at 5'8" and shrinking with shorter inseam wide shoulders I'm a pretty solid medium
The damper in my Fox 38 s*** the bed so I have the option to put the new one Grip X2 or the previous Grip 2. What's the consensus out there as to which is performing better?
Maybe conjecture, but I have heard a riding buddy raving about differences of the X2 post upgrade. YMMV
I've also heard a lot of good things about the X2 from friends.
I've got one sitting in my garage. Just need the snow to melt so I can get some first hand experience.
Yeah that's what I would guestimate too based on feel. And ^^, yeah no shit they slower, my gripe is that the claims from Specialized are misleading, also now I kind of want to quantify other sources of inefficiency...Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong
I found some tutorials for converting a dead treadmill into a sort of trainer/dyno Frankenstein thing and wrapping the drum in grip tape and using a voltimeter to infer power, the idea being to compare your onboard power meter readings with the calculated power to give a delta that represents RR after accounting for system inefficiency. But it seems like there has to be a more appropriate hardware selection to be made. Also maybe too nerdy of a topic for this thread.
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It's winter. The nerds are probably the only ones reading this thread. Do you have any links to what you found?Quote:
Originally Posted by Huskier
Or those of us who didn't get a winter this yearQuote:
Originally Posted by jono
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Pathfiders are on BRR but I dont see the tracers I had some at one point, might have been one of the first tires bigger than 33mm i ever had on a drop bar bike. I dont recall them feeling particularly slow but gravel tires have improved since then. I've been on a variety of the faster gravel (and XC) tires and even compared to fast road tires things like thunder burts and getaways still feel really good. I think when my current challenge getaways wear out im going to try terra speeds.</p>
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I got some lightly used forty seven c Pathfimders to try last week from a local S athlete who just got the fresh batch of new S tires. And though it pains me greatly to admit it, and I can’t even sell the goddamn things, those goddamn tires are fucking excellent.
Smooth, fast, nice profile, enough grip for corners. Ugh. I gotta find some decent clones.
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Anyone with experiences on a coil converted fork? Been seriously looking at the Smashpot for my 38 on my Dreadnought V2. Bike is already wicked heavy and everything I read seems to claim the increase in control and traction is worth the weight increase for a gravity focused rig..
Mine is not converted, but I am on an older (2019?) MRP Ribbon coil and I like it. The Fox 34 it replaced wasnt even in the same universe functionality-wise.Quote:
Originally Posted by vermontana
I've done a few PUSH AC3 conversions. Two on Pikes for my wife and a 36 for a Nomad enduro sled. Very happy with the results.Quote:
Originally Posted by vermontana
The Fox X2 worked really well with a coil.
OK...
So 2017 era transition bike that my daughter rides has a Rockshox dropper.... shocking that the thing lasted to the end of last season. This winter, I ordered a new dropper for her... and a oneup lever. I forgot to get the mount.. but.
The existing lever/button is mounted with the (front) brake.
What's the right move? buy both a new brake mount and post lever mount? All in one?
Is that presumably the mmx mount?
https://www.oneupcomponents.com/prod...40893804544097
That MMX mount should work with your current lever clamp
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If the bike already has sram mmx clamp brakes the oneup remote will go on the sram mount. that is probably already there, holding on the reverb lever.
It’s a reverb mount that holds the brakeQuote:
Originally Posted by joetron;[emoji[emoji6[emoji640
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I am about to do an Aircan service on a 2023 super deluxe ultimate RC2. I bought the kit off Jenson that said 2017+ models, but am now seeing the Sram manual has a different kit linked in the 2023 manual. Watching the videos it looks like the newer ones have built in bushings instead of back-up plastic rings to remove. Does anybody know if the seals are all changed, it is hard to tell if the kit will still work. Some websites advertize it as 2017 and on, some say 2017-2022 it looks like. This is it. Thanks!!
https://www.jensonusa.com/Rockshox-D...waAqOHEALw_wcB
Sounds like new XTR within a few weeks? Anyone know if it is electronic only? Building a new XC race bike and sorting out the build kit. I bought a used bike with transmission on there and I am thinking about swapping for mechanical XTR.
Praying for a brake with a consistent bite point.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tailwind
talk to me about a home compressor solution, my workspace is small, but dedicated , obviously will need a bike adapotor/gaugae to hook up? how are these things usually powered? are electric ones powerful enough to seat tubeless.
have a floor pump for throwing in the car and sitting by the door before rides but would love a more permanent quality solution in the shop, don't want it to be fixed/hardwired, want the ability to chuck in car and move it around a little, but portability is not a huge concern
I don't have a compressor but I have 2 or 3 floor pumps, I have never met a tubeless I couldn't instal altho i am a maxxis fanboi, as a minimalist do you really need a compressor or do you just want a compressor is my take?
I really like my M18 Milwaukee 2 gallon compressor. And it's completely random with tire sealing in my experience. Fat bikes are a pia and some skinnys just don't want to seat, so I've used the compressor a couple times on skinny tires.
But I also use the compressor for other stuff like my nail gun and blowing up car tires.
good start . it's not so much for the tubeless seating, i can get 9/10 tubeless seated with floor pump and /or cartridges, it's more because my floor pump is pretty beat to shit, it's gonna soon be on back of truck / by the door on the way out duty and was looking for a slightly more permanent, heavier duty , ease of use type of thing, that it would also help with tubeless is great - where this started was i was looking for my next floor pump, was considering ones with charger canisters , and other higher end ones and then some friends pointed me towards maybe there's just more value and long term utility with a small tank based compressor setup, but i know very little about the hose system, couplers, universalnesss of all of that and then of course a bike chuck with a nice gauge would be needed.
A cheap pancake compressor from home depot will get the job done just fine (and it'll do car tires and light duty air tools too).Quote:
Originally Posted by volklpowdermaniac
Hoses and fittings are easy; you'll be able to get pre put together kits with the compressor. Most things are 1/4" NPT. You'll likely have to take them apart and put some Teflon tape on too keep them from leaking, but that's easy.
I'm a cheap bastard, so I just cut a hose / pump head off an old broken pump and jam that onto the sprayer nozzle of my compressor. Inflates presta just fine. But there are assorted presta nozzles with gauges that you can buy. All of the ones I've seen use the standard 1/4" fittings.
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Originally Posted by toast2266
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beauty. great stuff</p>
I have the smallest, quietest Makita compressor (I think it's 1/2 gallon) and it works fine for seating MTB tires and filling up tires on my wife's car. The small reservoir size means that it has to recharge more often though. But it's pretty small (roughly 18"x18"x12") so it fits in the work bench without taking up too much space, weighs about 30 lbs so I've even brought it to a cycle repair day and run it off my truck's power, and it's quiet enough that I don't get yelled at by my wife & kid for running it at night.
California Air Tools. Extremely quiet. They have small aluminum options. https://www.californiaairtools.com/
Small space buy a little California air tools so you can hear yourself think. Much quieter than the generic cheapies for not a lot of extra cash.
Yeah, I don't use a gauge on my compressor. I fine tune with my pump that has a gauge or the classic thumb press.
I do think buying a good floor pump is worth it. Cheap ones are shit and don't last imo.
https://www.topeak.com/global/en/product/1[emoji643]3[emoji643]-E-BOOSTER-DIGITAL
The marketing info for the e booster says nothing about tubeless install, and it appears to be slow enough it would not accomplish that.
I’ll keep you posted next time I set up new rubber. In the meantime, setting the exact psi and pushing the button has been pretty much awesome.