Good to know thanks.
That's weird bout your rear pads though Andeh. My fronts always wear faster, not by a lot though.
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Good to know thanks.
That's weird bout your rear pads though Andeh. My fronts always wear faster, not by a lot though.
I think it depends on riding style. Some people drag the rear brake quite a bit. Not necessarily because they’re bad riders. Read an article about World Cup riders and their brakes some time ago and if I’m remembering correctly a lot of we’re getting their rear rotors up to higher temps than the fronts.Quote:
Originally Posted by beaterdit
Edit: Can’t find the article anywhere, so I may be hallucinating.
Is YT the only brand offering half-zip legs on MTB pants? I'm real fucking tired of stripping pantsless in the parking lot all sweaty after a ride just to take my pads off. But $129 is a lot for the YT pants.
On a set of guides my rear pads always wear faster than the front and I go thru a set of pads in about a 1900 km/ 7 month riding season
when i buy shit on-line the pads or grips or whatever small shit are the stuff to bring up an order to the point I get free shipping
I go through front pads at nearly 2 to 1 of back pads. Maybe more like 1.5 to 1, but when I replace fronts, I definitely still have life left on the backs.
I'm guessing it has as much to do with the terrain as rider. I mean, I definitely know some intermediate riders who drag rear brake all the time. But I also know on higher speed, flowier trails I pull both levers simultaneously but emphasize the front because it actually slows you down more, whereas on steeper, tighter trails I'm nearly constantly squeezing both simultaneously but pulse the rear more to get the rear to step out.
Some folks drag the back. I remember an interview with Marshy where he said Greg drags the rear. So yea, it’s allowed.
Where we ride park, brakes are on top to bottom. I found in addition to pad wear, rear rotors were prematurely warping on our DH bikes. Switching to 2.0mm 220 in back helped a lot.
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Hmm… that could be where I heard it from. When I was trying to find the article I had ‘remembered’ I tried also searching for Minaar specifically since I though he was one of the riders mentioned.Quote:
Originally Posted by jm2e
some times I am pedaling the e-bike while holding brake but I don't think that makes much different with pad wear
if you havent got any sandpaper handy just scuff them up on the basement floor
edit: I've used Sram/ Nukeproof/ Koolstop they all seem good enough, so as long as the braking power is ok I know padz are gona wear so I just bought 3 sets of cool stop to get the bill high enough for free shipping on a minion DHRII in Double Down from Steed a BC store cuz of course CRC is history and now I've got all my next seasons consumables
PSA: Galfer purple for Shimano 4-pots are $14 minus a 15% coupon right now on BikeInn.
https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/en/...ee/137149209/p
Shipping is $11 but well worth it if you need any other parts or order several pairs of them. BikeInn is just an outdoor gear, European version of Amazon- I've had great luck buying lots of things from tires to brake rotors.
They also have TRP 2.3mm rotors for ~$33 right now but the coupon doesn't work on them.
I have this idea in my head of making a pushup trainer to rehab my injured shoulder using an old pair of handlebars and grips. The reason I want to use a pair of bars is because it'll set my hand position in that I use biking. I was thinking of starting out with it fixed / rigid, and then once I rebuild some strength make it a little wobbly to work the stabilizer muscles more.
Anyone done or seen something like this, and have photos or a link to share on ideas for mounting the handlebar?
One buddy I know said he did this by ratchet strapping the center of the bar to a 20 lb hex-ended dumbell. I was also thinking of mounting the bars on a stem, then bolting the stem to a piece of 2x4 or similar. I also have a foot wobble board that I got years ago to rehab my ankle that I could mount the stem on, or maybe cut a lacrosse ball in half and bolt that to the bottom of a stem?
There are a few versions of this around... some have flat sides and pointy sides you can set to give desired stability.
https://en.brujulabike.com/praep-pro...home-training/
A Riprow trainer is ideal, and you can get them used here and there for reasonable prices.
I have a Cannondale CAAD10 aluminum road bike with the notoriously shitty pressfit bottom bracket. I asked the (excellent) LBS if they could put in anything better than another crappy bb30 and they suggested this: https://www.bbinfinite.com/products/...nt=44403002702, but noted that the bike's cable guide protrudes inside the bottom bracket shell and they would need to grind that off, and then make and thread a new hole on the bottom of the bottom bracket to mount the cable bed.
I was a little skeeved out at the idea of of modifying an older aluminum frame, but maybe I'm overthinking. Any thoughts on this?
Yeah I knew I'd seen something like that before. Looks like they're out of stock everywhere, especially of the basic block only. Like I said, I've already got old bars and grips I can use.Quote:
Originally Posted by grskier
The wheels MFG thread together bottom brackets are fairly decent and should leave more room for the cable guide and will not potentially back out like a bbinfinite etc that presses in from one side. I have two of them in pressfit frames and they seem good so far.Quote:
Originally Posted by dan_pdx
The other thing is that in my experience at least the bb30s with metal shells, like a caad etc should have fairly round and accurately sized bottom brackets and standard bearings/bbs tend to fine.
Anyway, on my supersix I spent a long time trying to get it to be quiet. Changing out spindles and bearings and bottom brackets and all that and it turns out that actually the spidering chainrings were creaking on the crank arm. And my one rear wheel clicks. And maybe the lightweight shitty compression plug cannondale puts in there was creating some clicking from the headset. So in conclusion, it wasn't actually the bottom bracket and my 10 year old press fit bb cannondale is completely silent.
Both the Wheels Mfg and the Enduro versions of these thread-together BB30s are great products but they only work with 24mm spindle cranks.Quote:
Originally Posted by jamal
Oh right i forgot my supersix is actually pf30 instead of bb30, which has a bigger shell and room for those sleeves to hold standard bb30 bearings.
For PF30, go all in on either the Enduro TorqTite or Wheels Mfg Threaded version. Neither of them extend far from the frame and both are available in 30mm spindle.Quote:
Originally Posted by jamal
Follow up: the shop determined the obnoxious clicking was the saddle. Facepalm. So I need a new saddle and I get to kick the decision about the bottom bracket down the road until the next time it actually needs to be replaced.
Hey didn’t someone here ask about bike pants with zippers to let you access your kneepads? Outdoor Research Freewheel Ride Pants seem a good call.
Looking for ideas on how to fix the creaking that develops when dust gets into the hole / tab interface that connects the aluminum carrier cog to the one piece steel cogset. See pic.
This 9-48 Leonardi Racing cogset shifts well, is durable, very light, and lets me use a medium cage XX derailleur for insanely good performance. But the creaking in dry summer conditions is bad. In the past I would hose out those holes with water pressure & apply green loctite or, eventually, penetrating oil, and the creak would go away for 3 rides or so. So then I cleaned them out again and sealed with silicone caulk but the creak still came back eventually.
Any ideas?
Attachment 506971
Loctite 609 penetrates better than silicone. Seems like an extreme use case for it, but maybe enough isopropyl first and see what happens? Followed by silicone to fill the holes?
Maybe try smacking the rivets with a punch to expand them slightly?
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That was the one huge improvement that Garbaruk made to the Sram cassette when they came out. They replaced those press fit tabs with actual screws, eliminating that issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by frorider
10 or so years later, Sram still hasn't incorporated that fix?! Crazy, unless Garbaruk wisely patented it.
Somehow missed where you'd already tried 609. Not shocking that it doesn't last, I guess, given the twisting/off-axis loads at those holes, but did it hold up at all?
Next up: dipping in queso? Or just drip some really hard/low temp wax mixed with a little carbon paste in there?
Gonna need a lot of queso for that pie plate. But sounds genius. Crock pot that shit for days.
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Best tool to clean junk off derailleur pulley wheels? I usually just use something with a straight edge like a flathead screwdriver, but there has to be a specific tool out there, no?
Squirt it with an air compressor until it's spinning at a bazillion rpm. Wear eye protection.Quote:
Originally Posted by smmokan
Yes this has been on my mind for a while as a possible solution. A friend has a machine shop where we could do this right but he’s been busy.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
I really had hoped the silicone caulk would keep the dust out but nope.
Having a 12 spd wide range (533%) with a med cage shifter just works so damn well, I’m reluctant to throw in the towel & just go full SRAM XX or X01 like my other bikes have.
Anyway snow is coming this week, bikes will hopefully gather dust for a while.
Jono, the green loctite didn’t seem to lengthen the creak free period (2-3 rides) significantly. In retrospect I should’ve heated up some mixed epoxy & put it in there (after cleaning with IPA) rather than the silicone caulk. Now that caulk is blocking the way.
I believ there are several types of green ? some of it is sleeve and bearing retainer, which I used on creaky race face crank/ square taper spindle and it 100% cured the creaks, which didnt matter cuz then junior snapped the spindle
That's the one. Gets into tight spaces but has light bond strength so it needs to stay in compression. Helps if it's wet during the press fit, but thin parts in dissimilar materials gonna flex a bit.
Caulk blocking is always a delicate challenge.
Yup I’m using the sleeve & bearing retainer loctite. Great stuff IME.
In terms of hammering it out to improve the fit tightness, that’d be a no brainer if it were an aluminum tab in a steel hole. But it’s the reverse case obviously, so I’m not sure I can get that steel tab to flare out much.
Garbaruk doesn’t sell a 9-46 or 9-48 12 spd cog last I checked but I’ll refresh my memory on that.
Edit: just ordered a 10-48 garbaruk cassette. I’ll keep the Leonardi, might put it on the fatbike since that only sees snow not dust ;)
If you really feel like futzing with it, you could drill and tap the rivets and install small bolts. With a drill press it wouldn't be particularly difficult. 50/50 odds on success though.
That's got to be once of the most annoying parts to clean. And it always takes longer than I expect, so that I really should just pull the chain off and clean it properly, but I never learn my lesson and always do it with a flathead and/or pick. Oh, and get the black gunk everywhere.Quote:
Originally Posted by smmokan
I'm guessing the right way to do it is pull the derailleur off (if using Transmission) or pull the wheels out, then spray with iso and scrub with a brush, preferably one of those ones with bristles on 3 sides.
I like that park tool with hookie thing on one end and a brush on the other end to clean between DER gears but running Squirt I usually just add more Squirt & usually don't bother to clean
When I ran squirt on an indoor trainer the Squirt just flaked off
Hot waxed chains is the only answer here. I’ve been riding all fall/winter now, multiple times a week and my chain, derailleur, and cassette look brand new. No grime or grit at all. Took me all of 5 minutes to remove the chai , dunk it in wax, and then reinstall once cooled while the bike was just sitting in the stand.
Yep. No need to ever clean chainrings, cassettes, or pulleys once you go Queso.Quote:
Originally Posted by Falcon3
I recently moved a pair of Dominions over to a new bike. Routed the rear hose w/ a new olive & barb and did a full bleed, everything felt nice and crisp on the lever and did a few test rides around the neighborhood etc. I don't have a crow foot for my torque wrench so I tightened the compression nut by feel, airing on the side of caution as usual. Yesterday was at my buddy's house before a ride and used his crow foot to try and torque the nut properly. It got like 2 more full rotations into the master cylinder (still about the same # of threads exposed as the other side) and I stopped going for fear there was something not working correctly with the wrench. I squeezed the brake after and it was spongy with the lever pulling almost all the way to the grip, but no sign of leakage anywhere. Did a quick master cylinder bleed at his house and pulled a ton of air out of the system along with adding more fluid. No fluid leakage around the nut during the bleed and the system felt fully pressurized by the end. Went for a ~3 hr ride and the brake worked perfectly. So, main question is what happened there..? Anything to be concerned about longer term?