Solid. Think you guys are right.
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Solid. Think you guys are right.
A lot of the cheaper homeowner saws have engine cases (no not the covers) made of plastic,Quote:
Originally Posted by Rideski
might be ok if you are gona run it for 15min
if you run it next to your buddies real saw they sound anemic
and your dick shrinks
SO if you want to run all day get a real industrial grade saw
My wages today tallied up for a few saws.
Attachment 331889
This is part of a wedge slice from a 20 foot limb from an 80 foot tree.
With this abscess in the heart, was it destined to fall soon, or is the surrounding wood more than enough to hold it for a while?
It was horizontal and weighed maybe 60-80 pounds.
Dead, needed to come off anyway, but just curious how long it would have stayed.
Also now that it’s cut, easy entry into the tree. I’ve heard nothing you can do, but it seems like spraying expanding foam in there would be a good idea. It’s 20 feet up off the ground, would not be visible.
make one of those epoxy things with that
Yeah was gonna say same. I did it accidentally once on my husky. It took quite a bit of force to Jigger(TM) it back.Quote:
Originally Posted by CascadeLuke
I’ve been giving away a considerable amount of wood. I’ve used a few wood stoves but not a ton. How many require 12” max length vs 16”?
My setting would be smaller urban stoves currently, I figure t might make a difference.
When it was alive, that limb had the same failure risk as if it had been intact wood. That amount of defect is minimal. In fact, a tree can be 80% hollow but if it has a complete cylinder of live wood with no breaks/gaps/thinner areas in that cylinder, its strength will be over 80%Quote:
Originally Posted by Rideski
Don't worry about the cavity. Do NOT fill it with anything. When I started in the industry in 1975, it was still common practice to fill cavities with cement, or about anything. About that time, research was finding it to be detrimental to the tree. Good thing. I still remember firing up my Jonsy 920Super, which was sporting a new chisel skip chain on a 36" bar and starting a face cut in a madrona. Didn't look to see what might be there. Cement. Cutters were over 50% hammered. Tossed the chain. Ouch!
Vid shows a technique called vertical speed lining. It a way to drop wood onto a slope and have it stay put. Easier than negative rigging with a block below the cut and friction device below, which is how we did the upper trunk sections. That was the smallest of three Douglas-fir. Had we been able to access them with a crane, there would have been close to 5000 board feet in them. The heaviest section we lowered was close to 1800 lb on the largest tree. Thankfully we were able to free drop the bottom 40 feet of it, as it was 44" dbh!!
https://www.facebook.com/roger.barne...0504228288480/
How would you go at taking this down?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...e569b94d89.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...fce4d5e0b4.jpg
Start with all the non-load-bearing smaller branches at the (former) top of the tree, trying to get the broken part to rest on one sturdy branch. Then start working your way up toward the trunk, doing undercuts on the load-bearing branch as far as you can. Then wedge-cut and back-cut the trunk to bring what’s left down on the ground.
That’s all best-case theoretical from looking at the picture, assuming there’s a sturdy hinge at the break that will support the former top. If not, I’d wedge-cut the trunk and back-cut to drop the thing 90 degrees from the broken part axis.
And have an escape path plotted if/when it rolls. The side facing looks really sketch for that.
I always like to notch the loaded branch on the top before doing the under cut because I've had them roll a bit and pinch the bar with just a plain undercut. Then I have to run back to the house and get saw #2.
Ok, that is what I was thinking, but wanted a second opinion.Quote:
Originally Posted by Meadow Skipper
Ahh, that makes a lot of sense as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Timberridge
Thanks guys
Get the trunk started at 3 or 9 o'clock to the break and fall one of the nearby trees into it to knock it all down.
So I replaced the rotted out gas lines in my pos poulan chainsaw.
Spent an afternoon using it and it was running better than I ever remember.
Went to use it the next day and when I start it it's revving really really high and spinning the chain at 'idle'.
If I squeeze the trigger it goes to nuclear rpm's that I've never experienced with this engine. Obviously not running it long at this speed. I've tried playing with the fuel and air trims and idle speed screws but I don't think it's having any affect. (I've never had to adjust these screws so I have zero experience with what to expect)
It's as if the idle speed has been mechanically advanced somehow. Does this sound crazy?
Any ideas? Besides throwing it in a lake?
You're running too lean. Not enough gas. Did you replace the gas line with a n OEM one? Sure it's the right diameter? Some of the cheap replacement lines will collapse under pressure and cut down the flow of fuel.
If it's not your fuel line, you need to clean your carb and get it tuned. If the old fuel line was rotten, it could have put debris into your carb and plugged up some of the holes.
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Too much air = higher rpms? I've got a lot to learn.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lawless
I know the wider diameter tube was the correct size, but aren't a 100% sure about the thinner tube.
I'll check that and have a closer look at the carb.
Thank you.
Jackstraw, I found this in a training manual. Hope it helps. Attachment 334816
What if you want a leaner to fall in a slightly different direction than the lean? I have one that would clip the house if I let it go the way it (seems to) want to.
you would be smart to hire a tree removal pro who has experiance AND insuranceQuote:
Originally Posted by gravitylover
That’s getting in to advanced level felling. Things like the depth of the face cut, hinge wood, Dutchman cuts, etc. Googling for felling a leaner or the guy that posts as @rbtree could probably explain it better than I could. But go on YouTube and search on tree cutting or felling fails so that you can check out the costs of oopsie-daisy.Quote:
Originally Posted by gravitylover
Edit: XXX-er has a bit of wisdom there. I guess if you’re asking, you should get someone with expertise...and insurance.
I would not fell my first leaner like that if the consequence of a mistake or calculation error is hitting a structure. It’s definitely something to learn and understand when consequences are low
How big is the tree? I've used a block and 100' cable attached to a pickup to pull many small - medium size trees away from buildings.
and a calm day. They way they do it around me is a climber goes up and limbs it first then they lop off trunk sections. The risk is too great to do a standard fell.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
First things first, is that section of the house in need of a remodel?Quote:
Originally Posted by gravitylover
As a homeowner, you are likely insured for property damage you cause that is not intentional. So you (probably) are insured. Maybe just lacking the experience part though.
I am a beginner woodworker. I started to learn several basic woodworking tools like hand saws, sanders, files, and hammer. Besides, I am reading different articles like this article where the author makes a good discussion on this useful cutting too.
Too lazy to search but I know y'all have linked videos. Fall a bunch of trees for firewood(only heat source) but was out 4wheeling this weekend and had to cut out a bunch of trees which was mostly easy with relief cuts etc but came on a 15in dia leaner that was tied into maybe 5-6 other trees. I had a strategy to cut it out but one guy was nervous. Only dealt with this once or twice before. Advice from the collective?
Hard to tell without seeing it. Got a picture? Leaners should make a person nervous.
Tough to say without seeing it, but my strategy is usually to make a cut to relieve tension somewhere that feels safe. Ideally somewhere where I can stand behind a tree so if the leaner pops in an unexpected direction, I'm semi protected. But I usually end up making quite a few cuts - start low and work my way up the tree.Quote:
Originally Posted by lifelinksplit
Borrowed my neighbors shitty Husqvarna 445 to trim a few tree limbs.
Fawk I need to just purchase my own MS250 Sthil.
Was the chain sharp?Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
They are both piss ant saws with the edge going to the Husqi for power.
If you are going out to buy your own the best thing to think of is which saw is carried by the closest saw shop, not big box, and buy that one. You might need some service and parts.
Also, all this talk of “leaners” on this thread has me thinking:
1. Ya’ll, be careful out there. Don’t be a Jerry.
2. Go buy some wedges.
3. If it’s a residential situation involving structures, just hire someone with the right equipment, knowledge, and bonding.
I was raised by 4 generations of timber fallers, have two saws sitting in the garage, and cut all my own firewood, but guess who has an appointment coming up with the arborist to take care of the birch tree hanging over the neighbors house?
PS. A while back there was a picture of a broken tree about halfway up. That’s called a widow maker. Don’t let it live up to its namesake.
Thanks for the replies guys. I wasnt trying to minimize the concern over the leaner. It makes me nervous as hell esp since I had cut a few that day that had some energy built up when I cut them. I had planned on using a winch line to help mitigate where the tree went. As well as what was mentioned i.e. starting low and working up as it allowed. It was a mess and I really didnt want to gave to deal with it which I luckily didnt have to.
I have a Husky 350 and 372XP. Shouldn't be a problem for the 445. The 445 is more saw than the 350. I cut up 30"diam maple storm casualty no problem with the 350. Though if it was oak I would have brought the 372 to the fight.Quote:
Originally Posted by Storm Hood
One observation. I wasn't able to get my chain sharpened for this so I bought a Stihl chain from the local hardware store. It didn't cut well at all. Not sure if Stihl is dumbing down these chains but went to another store carrying the same chain in Husky and after the swap it cut better. Normally buy the Oregon shop cut chain but I have to say for the smaller saw and 18" bar Husky chain works as well or better than the Oregon.
On sale now for $299 at Sthil dealers.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
Sorry for calling it a piss ant. Those saws are a good size to serve a lot of needs.
Having the right chain on is so important. I like saws big enough to run full-skip chisel, because the cut well. However, I only get away with it because I have access to a chain grinder. Putting that chain on a littler saw though won’t cut for shit.
A lot of the Stihl in the package chains are full comp and round file because it’s better for little saws and hand sharpening.
https://www.husqvarna.com/uk/forest/...in-a-few-tips/
On the whole block and pickup technique, I have never seen a professional faller or arborist do it, so it might just not be the right way to do it.
Does using regular (vs high test) fuck up a Stihl? If so I never knew. I guess you get ethanol in regular that you don't get in higher octane.
Guy who looked at mine for service told me mine was toast. It is running and cutting ok. He told me give it a minute and it will die. It's about 2 years old. Not too many hours I guess.
No offense taken. The 350 is a consumer saw and really easy to handle. The 445 Rancher is very similar. I prefer to buck and limb a softer wood tree with the smaller saw even if I do lose a bit of time on the big sections as I find I'm putting down the big 372 more often. It depends on the wood though, as the smaller saw struggles through oak and hornbeam.
I always use premium in my saws during cutting season. I'm not big on cutting in winter so I store them with the Husky gas in a can stuff over the winter. If I need to use them in winter I just run more thru. It's not cheap but cheaper than paying for a carb rebuild in the spring.Quote:
Originally Posted by Harvey44
I just bought a ms250 to replace a 445 that needs a new carb and ignition work that I don’t have time for right now.Quote:
Originally Posted by Storm Hood
Both are piss ants -> but that’s the point. A lightweight saw saves a lot of energy when you are in smaller wood or clearing brush. I don’t mind bending over a little more when it means lugging around 10bs less saw.
Absolutely try to run ethanol free premium gas in all your 2stroke engines.
Ethanol really lowers the engine hours.
Truth.Quote:
Originally Posted by Storm Hood
Ethanol free makes a gigantic difference. It comes higher octane where I am that regular UL, but I don’t think small engines recognize a benefit. They sure do from avoiding ethanol blends.