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Doh!Quote:
Originally Posted by Roxtar
Yes, just the nipple. Just checked and even already have the right spoke wrench. Nipple snapped and threaded part of spoke is perfectly fine. Is a nipple just a nipple? Can pick up basically whatever they have at LBS?
There are 14 and 15 gague nipples, but chances are good its 14g. (2.0). Brass or aluminum?
Pretty sure it's alu. I already took it off the spoke so I'll just bring it with me to the shop in the AM.Quote:
Originally Posted by rideit
Attachment 334773
Good call.
How do I fix this?
But seriously, that broke with a very audible "ping" while I was bouncing down some steep rocks right after a good sized table. I'm pretty damn happy the bars stayed on the bike and that I was able to slow it down while my bars were moving all over the place.
What happened? I assume the stem bolts were over torqued at some point, but I bought the bike used 3 years ago. I'm surprised it took that long to go tits up.
Off to the LBS tomorrow to get a new stem.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...05f46b27e7.jpg
The 8100 rear der on my last bike was only a month old when it started creaking and became incredibly stiff. Opened up the clutch and it was dry with a few spots of rust colored deposits. I just received a new one for a bike I’m putting together and decided to open it up to inspect the clutch. How does this look? Seems to be lacking sufficient grease, but I’m not sure what a new one should look like.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
Attachment 334777
The actual clutch mechanism (the round part) has 2 grooves on the roller surface that hold the grease. There should be some white grease visible between the meeting point of the spring clamp band.
It’s important that you only use Shimano Internal Hub Grease.
If it broke, it's aluminumQuote:
Originally Posted by rideit
Or Shimano's Premium GreaseQuote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
Or Shimano's Grease for Shimano Shadow RD Plus
Yup. Brass deforms rather than snaps. Alum snaps.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roxtar
Whole Lee Fuck. That is some scary shit right there. Seriously. I’ve seen many failures but never seen that one.
I assume bolts were overtight but still. Damn. Glad you are in one piece.
A little duct tape should fix that right up. The red stuff is aerodynamically faster.
Quote:
Originally Posted by John_B
That's a good advert for the strength of that Chromag bar.......either way I would trash it to be safe. New bar + new stem (get a copperhead and call it good) + torque wrench!!!!
It may just be nomenclature, but when you say “Shimano Premium Grease” i assume you mean Dura-Ace Premium Grease, which is the florescent yellow stuff, and this will not work on the clutch.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roxtar
Service bulletin from Shimano:
“Please note: You can NOT use any old grease to service the clutch.
A new grease formulated specifically for ShadowRD+ clutches will be available soon (ETA November 2018). New part #Y04121000.
This new grease lasts about twice as long as the white Nexus grease Shimano previously specified for this purpose.
The new ShadowRD+ grease must be used for derailleurs in the RD-M9100 series.
On other pre-2019 derailleurs, you can continue using white Nexus grease, but expect to service the clutch more frequently.”
Yup, I mispoke (misposted?) about the Premium GreaseQuote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
Thanks for the info. I took a look at the 2 grooves on the roller surface. Not much great in there. I'll order up either the nexus or ShadowRD+ grease. It'll probably depend on what's in stock at this point!
Another question: The shimano nexus (hub) grease can be used as internal hub grease as well as clutch grease. Can the new ShadowRD+ grease be used for the internal hub, or only the clutch?
I'm on the Shimano STEC site and the ShadowRD+ Grease is nowhere to be found. Where are you guys finding this?
The short answer can be found under the thread:Quote:
Originally Posted by robnow
"This is the discussion thread for the updated: Shadow RD+ Derailleur Service module."
On the left sidebar click "Mountain" then in the dropdown click "drivetrain service" . Then, under courses, go to "RD+Derailleur Service"Quote:
Originally Posted by robnow
I wanted to report back on the Henty Enduro Pack. Great suggestion from Toast. I have used it for about 50-60 miles now. SO nice. Way more comfortable than a Dakine hip pack. More water, great pockets that you can access while pedaling for snacks, etc. I'm sold.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
Fine, I'll do the module but I mean the product does not exist when shopping the Elite site.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roxtar
Anti seize or grease for a threaded bottom bracket?
Grease (frame material?)
This (and frame material shouldn't matter because even if it's carbon, it'll have an aluminum insert for a threaded BB).Quote:
Originally Posted by simple
Nice. Glad that worked for you. They're great little packs that kinda fill a niche that doesn't otherwise exist.Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
Quote:
Originally Posted by robnow
I took your comment as "where can I find this information on S-Tec."Quote:
Originally Posted by robnow
I was not trying to be that guy saying "just watch the module."
But ya the product is not available for purchase they have the Nexus Grease, and the Premium Grease (Dura Ace Grease), but not the newer Shimano Special Grease for Shadow RD+ Rear Derailleur Stabilizers - 50g (#Y04121000)
The new Shadow RD+ Grease is not backwards compatible, Nexus grease is still needed for Nexus hubs, and even though they have formulated a "better performing" grease for the RD Stabilizers, the old Nexus is still officially usable.Quote:
Originally Posted by g_man80
Grease and torque that sucker down (with a torque wrench if possible). Typically 25-35 ft lbs.Quote:
Originally Posted by jackstraw
I use Teflon tape and grease. No creaks!
Is there any actual performance/durability downside to the creaking bottom bracket? Or is it purely an audible annoyance
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Creaking = movement. Movement = wear. Wear = increased tolerances. Increased tolerances = increased movement (go back to step two and repeat).Quote:
Originally Posted by Muggydude
It is also an audio annoyance.
Yeah, the reason I ask is because of this vid...the guy works for Sram.Quote:
Originally Posted by simple
The "official" Sram vid shows grease.
https://youtu.be/HqhV8nTtQZc
Anti seize on titanium frames.Quote:
Originally Posted by jackstraw
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
This.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
A creak is a cry for help!
OK, idiot brain block moment here.
I have an 11 speed drivetrain with xt components. so, to do a service on my hub I bought a new HG driver body... forgetting that my existing driver body is an XD and has the TRS+ cassette on it (9-46T)
My appt to get the hub done is Thursday.
Do I get a new cassette (HG) overnighted or an XD driver?
Or, do I get a 11 spd SRAM cassette (XD)?
will that work with my Shimano derailleur fine?
I'll ETA a pic of existing cassette etc in a few minutes.
Attachment 335237
What are you wanting serviced on the hub? Or, what are the issues that are causing you to bring it to the shop?
I wouldn't replace the HG freehub or an XD driver as a part of routine servicing, assuming they're functioning normally (no pawl slipping, for example).
Well, I found the hack to upgrade the 370 to a 240Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
OK. Something I don't have any experience with...Quote:
Originally Posted by grskier
DT experts here?
For those of you swapping multiple wheelsets on a frame, how do you deal with offsets in rotor position between different hub/rotor combinations? Use shims between the rotors and hubs to make everything line up? Get really good at adjusting the brake position each time you swap wheels? Just buy the exact same hub and rotor for every wheel so you don't have to deal with it?
Multiple sources have told me "just loosen the brake mounting bolts, and retighten while squeezing the brake lever", which never seems to work well enough to avoid rubbing. Brakes are TRP Hy-Rd post mount, and tightening the mounting bolts always seems to shift it out of position so I spend a lot of time trying to get it aligned properly.
+ XD freehub allows you to upgrade to 12 speed in future, and allow for 10t cog
+ new HG cassette allows you to put that e13 cassette where it belongs (in the trash)
+ all 11 speed cassette will work fine with your Shimano 11speed RD
- SRAM HG cassettes are boat anchors
I would want a fresh cassette with a fresh hub build.
You can take the ratchet ring out of the hub body and replace it with a star ratchet ring. It doesn't turn them into a 240, the hubshell is different/heavier, etc, but it does get rid of the pawl system and use the same ratchet bits. It's not cheap, especially if you're buying the tools to do it, since you need the special DT tool for both the pawl ratchet ring and the star one.Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra