Remember when we didn't have dropper posts?
Yeah, that sucked, but we didn't know any better. [emoji16]
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Remember when we didn't have dropper posts?
Yeah, that sucked, but we didn't know any better. [emoji16]
I have an extra one of these that I used before having a thumb reconstruction, it worked really, really well for that purpose. I used it about ten times, if anyone wants it, maybe $25. ?Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
I set it up so I operated it with my left hand index finger, and not my thumb.
Funny considering we were just talking about improving skills : )Quote:
Originally Posted by jackstraw
I have an extra one of these that I used before having a thumb reconstruction, it worked really, really well for that purpose. I used it about ten times, if anyone wants it, maybe $25. ?Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Put it upside down so it's above the bar facing out?Quote:
Originally Posted by Huskier
The fact that it's not like that is kinda stressing me out.Quote:
Originally Posted by jamal
Ok, ok ok...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...931f65f17f.jpg
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So, these came across my FB feed, and my first thought was that they could be useful for dialing in tire pressure and air shock pressure.
Definitely intrigued.
Anyone wanna split an order?
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https://over-sand.com/?gad_source=1&...xoC8ocQAvD_BwE
I haven't even checked my fork and shock pressures this year.Quote:
Originally Posted by rideit
NERDS ONLY NEED APPLY
@DeeHubs?
@Gunder?
Given that pressure in your shock is realistically fluctuating 10-15 psi just due to normal temperature changes on a ride, it doesn't strike me as being particularly necessary to dial in pressures to a super exact level.
Those things seem more useful for high volume tires that you're inflating with a compressor. Overinflate them a bit then throw the deflators on.
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Precisely the feedback I was looking for, thanks.
That said, when I run an X2 air, my psi is often quite high, so maybe for that.
The range on those things doesn't come remotely close to fork or shock pressure range. Only good for tires and then you'd have to use a schrader adaptor. Kinda cool but not useful for bikes IMO.
Not to mention the pressure goes up when you compress the shock to provide the spring force.
IME/IMO you can't really check shock pressure, all you can do is set it becuse the air chamber is so small when you check it you remove enough air to changed it too much
X100Quote:
Originally Posted by grskier
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How is this not what we’re talking about?!?!?! Borderline sig worthy.Quote:
Originally Posted by Huskier
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You might try straightening your back leg, dropping that pedal a little, and deepening your hip hinge a bit. It keeps the same weights in the same places with less of the fatigue of basically doing a squat the entire downhill. Making that change sure helped me out.Quote:
Originally Posted by jackstraw
Or desperately trying to slow the decline :(Quote:
Originally Posted by jackstraw
how fucked is this, felt like i got a rock or a muddy rock up in there and it just went pop, seems similar to sucking the rd with a poor limit adjustment but i was fine just five min prior. seems like the whole rd rotated up?
repairable?
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Looks like your derailleur and hanger are bent. Both are toast if so. You can try straightening the hanger for temporary and see how things look but it'll need a new one to ride for sure.
Quote:
Originally Posted by beaterdit
yeah this is what worried me. oh well.
so do i just get a new 8000/9000 series RD and keep exact setup
or
start the process of going to deore 5100 by getting the 5100 der. which would allow me at some point to go to the 11-51 cassette (currently 11-46)
or
linkglide 1x11 (8130 or cues6000)
i guess it comes down to:
how does 5100 1x11 compare to last gen 8000/9000 1x11, its much more modern derailuer, but several steps down in group set.
and
how does 5100 1x11 compare to the linkglide 1x11, seems like weight of linkglide might be overkill?
My MO recently is to replace RD, cassette, chain all at once. It’s the luxury of running mid level cable pull drivetrains and riding the same bike for more than one season.
Just replaced three bikes drivetrains.
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That's what I've always done with chain/ring/cassette. I often get 1-2 full years out of a drivetrain. Replace once it starts shifting like garbage. Only replace RD when it gets bent or if the clutch is too worn.
I usually go thru 3 chains then its time to replace chain/ cluster/ chain ring
^^^ same. Chains last maybe 1500 miles, depending on the chain. Cassettes will go 4000-5000 miles as long as I replace the chain before it gets too bad.
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Tell us which side of the queso debate you’re on without saying “wax”Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
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Yeah, I got 3000mi each from my last 2 XT chains....
I finally tried queso dip with corn chips and it tasted like shit, I cna't believe people buy this stuff > onceQuote:
Originally Posted by jm2e
Cold weather gloves that are decent? My Pear Izumi ones aren't doing it for me anymore.
I get cold hands easy so right now at about zero and first snow of the year I'm using black diamond ski gloves with extended cuff/ removable liner
there is no such thing as bad weather, just insufficient kit
Got a couple different weights of Handup gloves I really like. Can usually be found for around $20/pair.Quote:
Originally Posted by Yukonrider
Got a couple different weights of Handup gloves I really like. Generally sub $30/pair. Maybe not quite as warm as my PearleIzumis but also WAY less bulky and much thinner in the palms so grip a lot better. Seem generally more durable too.Quote:
Originally Posted by Yukonrider
I'm a big fan of their regular "Most Day" gloves.Quote:
Originally Posted by beaterdit
I found the older style PTFE queso to be a little too spicy. The newer molybdenum disulfide is much more smoother.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
Cold weather gloves need a cuff/gauntlet or they don’t work for me.
But I also feel like gloves are a no win conversation until you define whether you want something that feels like pantyhose, or something that feels like it’s for handling raptors.
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Most people are the other way in that they don't want a cuff or Gauntlet, so I point out cuffs keep snow out on pow days, would you shingle a roof with the overlap back ass wards but whooshQuote:
Originally Posted by jm2e
I don't get the kinco thing either, they don't sell em up here
I prefer cuffless but I'm talking shoulder season riding. For full winter ya can't beat pogies (bar mitts). Wear your summer gloves or a very lightweight shoulder season glove, get good grip, and be toasty. Just don't fall.
I'm cuffless skiing too. The cuff logic isn't lost on me, I've had them before, I just prefer less bulk. It does make jacket wrist gaiters mandatory for me. Course ya see half the folks with big gauntlet gloves walkin around with them hangin off their wrists by the stupid leashes, gauntlet up, while they fill with snow.
I used gauntlet style gloves all my life skiing until I had a kid and started him snowboarding. Then all of the sudden my gloves are on and off constantly, and it made sense to go cuffless and leave the sleeves loose while I'm with the kid (still keeps out groomer snow fine), and just tighten the velcro when I'm skiing powder without him. Plus if the gloves come off for extended periods and they're in my jacket pockets, the cuffless ones have less bulk stowed.
Define cold weatherQuote:
Originally Posted by Yukonrider
When it's cold cold (significantly below freezing or out for a long time), then hand warmers are great. I don't like thick ski gloves because the insulation layers allow some twist when I'm holding on for dear life.
For just cool-cold (e.g. 30s-40s) then these are my favorite: https://a.co/d/6f3vVy1
GripGrab Waterproof thermal Knit. They're knit with a thermal-fluffy inside and a stretch waterproof membrane that makes them windproof. Surprisingly warm for low-bulk.