no, yes
Printable View
no, yes
If you can get it to seal I'd say keep riding it.
Don't totally disagree, but if it were older or lots of miles I'd be looking at the above only as a very temporary measure until I replaced the rim.
^^Good point. I'm also basing my response on what little I can see in the pic.
This is where I’m leaning.
I’ve wanted a set of carbon wheels for this bike for a bit but don’t feel like spending the money right now. Superboost so a little harder used.
Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
The picture sucks… basically on one side the whole seam is pretty smooth, other side noticeably raised and no longer smooth. Think .5mm or 1mm displacement.
The sidewall of the rim probably has a 3mm gap where it twisted where it was previously joined.
It’s a 3 pawl DT hub… so I’m tempted to just go for a full new wheel.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bagtagley
It might hold together for you but it probably needs replacement sooner than later,Quote:
Originally Posted by Tailwind
mr rock has made your decision for you
A 3 mm gap on a (formerly) welded joint has a massive stress concentration where the crack ends. That is, wherever it ends right now. That's gonna move. Would you be comfortable drilling a 3 mm hole at the end of that crack? Not even if I was spancered and had unlimited AQS to close it back up. Nope.
Is it welded though? Vs pinned?
Not sure if that's going to make much difference in whether the wheel holds up. I'd probably remove the tire, bend the rim back into shape, and see if it holds pressure - and start shopping for a new wheel/wheelset.
If this is a rear wheel and you want a replacement I have one that I would let go cheap. I bought it on a trip when my primary failed. I rode it just a handful of times until my primary was fixed. I think mine is actually an E1900, centerlock, XD driver.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tailwind
Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
Valid point. And that looks like it's misaligned by about the thickness of the material, so < 3 mm. Still, looks like it's not far from being wielded as a shank. Hopefully not while riding.Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
Those rims are definitely sleeved, not welded. Not uncommon for the joint to separate a little bit, and in the era of tubes it wasn't the end of the world. You're not gonna get that thing to reliably set up tubeless ever again though. Even with some careful "cold forging," there's still gonna be some weirdness there that rim tape and sealant are going to struggle with.Quote:
Originally Posted by jono
Really helpful feedback on the rim! Looking at it a bit more it is pinned rim.
Busy day today but I’ll see how things look with the tire off and report back… seems like it’s a matter of ‘maybe can ride it a few more times’ but maybe not.
Carbon wheels have always been in the plan for this bike either way. I saw a prototype We Are One rim on pinkbike this spring that I believe was originally stated for a late summer release. I’d really been hoping to hold out until these were launched.
https://www.pinkbike.com/news/we-are...tter-2022.html
shop bro would swap out the stock rims for his set of full carbon rims, do 20 rides and sell the bike with the pristine original rims after 20 rides SO he gets to ride the new bike for free but its also about knowing what new bike are doingQuote:
Originally Posted by Tailwind
This one feels hopeless but y'all are smart and helpful so here goes.
My partner's Shimano 12 speed won't stay shifting right. She's been on it for about a season now, Deore cassette, Xt shifter, SLX derailleur (just replaced), and no matter how much I fiddle with it, after a ride or two it's back to hesitating and skipping on both up and down shifts. It's absurd. I've checked B tension, double checked chain length (new chain with three rides on it), checked the hanger, replaced the cable, cleaned everything, lubed everything, even took it to the shop guy who's a certified drivetrain whisperer, and while he got it shifting good for a ride, it was right back to inconsistent and vague shifting the next time she took it out. She doesn't have a HG+ chainring (new one comes in the mail today that is HG+) but that wouldn't cause this sort of hesitation and BS, right? Or could the chainring be the limiting factor here?
Any hints before I give up and give her the drivetrain off my hardtail?
Try turning the clutch off and see if it shifts better? I see them stick pretty often.
Toast is right, 100% sleeved. It may work tubeless but as stated not 100% reliably.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Excellent thought. My drivetrain was doing something similar and the clutch felt ok by hand but upon turning it off, everything shifted perfectly. Serviced the clutch and was 100%.Quote:
Originally Posted by jamal
Also maybe worth replacing the housing ( you said you replaced the cable but didn’t mention housing). I’ve had the inner sleeve wear through and then the cable caught inconsistently in the housing.
If none of that works, I might just go ahead and replace the hanger. Sometimes they can be just a bit off and it's hard to tell, or it could be a little weak from repeated straightening and potentially flex a bit.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cydwhit
What bike is she on, does it have funky cable routing? I have had bad XT 12-speed shifters in the 100s I've installed, so maybe swap it with another you have and see if it improves.
Thanks all!
I'll do a clutch service and see if that helps.
She's on a Transition Sentinel, not that weird of routing, and the housing was brand new last fall. Shifter was originally Deore, which weirdly seemed to work better than the XT one we replaced it with. I'm planning on servicing the clutch, putting the old Deore shifter back on, and putting on a new hanger this afternoon before she goes for a ride. If that doesn't fix it, she's getting Microsoft haha.
I've had a couple shimano derailleurs do the same thing you're describing. Every time it was the clutch, and every time the clutch would go bad again pretty quickly. Turning off the clutch was the only real solution.Quote:
Originally Posted by cydwhit
Ended up ditching shimano and going back to sram.
Bummer. Good to know, thanks. Gonna see if we can limp her through one more trip, and then probably sell the whole bike to a high school kid and go SRAM next time.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
The clutch is definitely a weak point on the Shimano derailleurs. I service mine really frequently after having one fail in less than 500mi (seemingly no grease from the factory). It was warrantied.
Here's a new failure mode for everyone: main cage pivot. I got it working again and all is well, but it's another thing to check. It's like they just leave out grease sometimes.
Attachment 426415Attachment 426416
I seen alot of what we called red rust on spring clutches in printers also on worn bearings, we would either replace them or just clean and grease to get the printer up if we didnt have parts, this would happen even on parts I know I had greased & replaced, not really sure what causes red rust