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yeah i'm on hub/wheelset number 5, 2 torch, 2 hydra, 1 1/1 and i've never had issues other than this small one now. spin forever, clean and grease every couple of years, but i do see a lot of people complaining which is incongruent in my head, but my n=1, so who the f knowsQuote:
Originally Posted by XtrPickels
Ask the experts: Would a bike company present misleading weight numbers? How shocked should I be!!??!
Situation: 11 year old is starting in the NICA world this year. I'm engaged in full analysis paralysis mode on what bike, but was perusing the Trek website thanks to the 25% NICA discount...
Trek is offering 2 aluminum hardtails with virtually identical specs, listing one at 33lbs in medium, one at 28lbs in medium.
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/b...lorCode=orange vs. https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/b...black_greydark
The Marlin is more interesting to me because of the size-specific wheels (she is moving up from a 24") and much better standover, in fact the procaliber isn't even in the running due to sizing but the weight discrepancy had me scratching my head.
Fork: Both Judy solo silvers, lighter bike is boost and 120mm vs 100mm (Edit: I now see that they specify a tapered steerer on the lighter bike - safe to assume that 1 1/8" straight steerer on an entry level bike is a heavy steel steerer tube?)
Rims: Same
Hubs: Heavier has formulas, lighter has shimano
Groupset: Heavier has SX, Lighter has Deore
Dropper: Heavier has tranzx, lighter has Bontrager (which is probably a tranzx)
Tires: Heavier has ardent exos, lighter has some bontrager nonsense
BB: Heavier has truvative powerspline, lighter has shimano cups
Both measured with tubeless set up.
And so on.
So my question is - where are they getting 5lbs heavier on the other aluminum framed (both are "Alpha Platinum") bike?
I could see a lb or 2 on the crank / bb / cassette...zero on the fork, negligible on the dropper / wheels / tires...3lb difference on the frame seems crazy...
While mechanics or industry folks can see enough data to conclude that Yup that product is failure prone, that doesn’t mean everyone will experience failure. Some products (certain products from e13, I9, etc) do fail enough to get such a reputation for statistical failure that their own press releases or CS communications acknowledge the statistical failures and promise that ‘we’ve fixed it this year’.Quote:
Originally Posted by volklpowdermaniac
If you own a shop, or have beers with a shop owner, you’ll see the challenge — carry a product (because THIS year it’s been fixed) like I9 hubs that have a history of failure but your customers want it, or try to talk them into a more reliable brand that is just as light and also comes in dentist colors?
It’s tough for retailers. The Fox Float X2 was plagued with issues for a couple of years, despite the assurances that ‘we’ve fixed it’. I have a 2024 X2 that’s been rock solid, but I only got it after I became convinced they HAD fixed the issues. Amusingly enough, during that long stretch where Fox was bombarded with X2 failures & basically overwhelmed, there still were people posting ‘what issue? Mine’s fine’.
I'm trying to think of something that would be more prone to statistic-driven failures than bearings and all I can come up with is: cheaper bearings.
I get why I9 might try to save $6, but if I'm a consumer replacing them and I already know the last ones didn't...
Add me to the statistical pile supporting more than frequent I9 bearing failures. Fell for the Hydra hype a few years ago, bought a rear hub, it's been nothing but a pain since D1. The bearings barely make it through a UT season, and I'm not doing a whole lot of mileage with the bike the Hydra is on, mostly painful alpine rides with lots of slow steeps and HAB. First bearing replacements at 400 miles, now at about 800 and the wheel feels very sluggish when spun by hand. The drag is unreal, I can't imagine how much power I'm wasting to that POS. I'm getting a new rear wheel built with a Bitex hub. My trail bike has a DT350 that I've ridden for 5 seasons and close to 4000 miles, I think I've re-greased it twice, it looks like a perpetual motion machine next to the I9...
I have Ibis hubs, and have to change bearings around every 2500 HARD miles. On my 3rd freehub also, they go around 3k with my use. I've been impressed with them. Last bike had Hope Pro2s and those bearings only went 800-1000 miles before they STB. Regularly.
Published weights certainly tend to be bullshitty, but on 2 bikes from the same company, I'd be inclined to believe the published difference in weight is in the right ballpark. Lower end parts add a lot of weight, really quickly. Like, I've seen plenty of instances where going a rung or two down in something like a cassette will add a full pound.Quote:
Originally Posted by mildbill.
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Unless it's a conspiracy to get me to buy the more expensive bike...which...you don't need a conspiracy for that...Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Mildbill- I'll fully into the OCD, analysis headspace. Start spreadsheet with all components. Weights can be found via pricepoint or other websites.
Some guesses will have to be made, but you'll eventually narrow it down to a frame weight. That should show you the problem areas. In my experience. Tires, wheelset, cassette are the 3 biggest problem areas. Those can also be improved as they wear out. The frames will be within half pound (normally).
Eta- Forks can be major weight gain, and expensive to replace. Watch that area.
Powerspline BB and cranks are bricks. So are the cassettes.Quote:
Originally Posted by mildbill.
It’s not just about weight.
The Deore build is worth the $$. SX is garbage.
The shifter and brakes will feel and perform sooo much better.
Your NICA kid will go faster and be more stoked with the Deore bike.
Trek is not trying to scam you with weight. A Deore bike vs an SX bike is a substantial upgrade.
Edit: I glanced over the size issue in the OG post. Oops….but yeah, a Marlin SX vs a ProCaliber w/ Deore is gonna have a significant weight difference. Same aluminum, but not the same frames.
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Copy that - local shop had a Team Marin 1 in a box (deore, RS air fork, boost, they set it up tubeless for her) that they built up after extensive sidewalk testing a Team 2, satisfying dad's insistence that his 90# kid be on a setup with thru axles.Quote:
Originally Posted by joetron
One ride and the 29er seems like the right choice, sizing-wise, as well - and if it wasn't right now it will be in about 3 weeks.
Sweet! Good call.
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I just bought a used Revive dropper. I’m building up a bike and I installed it in the frame without a cable. Is it normal for it to drop all the way down under my own weight? Don’t want to continue setting it up if there’s something wrong with it.
It shouldn't. Check to see that the lever the cable pulls on at the bottom isn't stuck open.Quote:
Originally Posted by funkendrenchman
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Nope it’s closed. Was going to check the air pressure, but I don’t have the silly extender.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Air pressure shouldn't matter. If the air pressure was low, it just wouldn't re-extend all the way.Quote:
Originally Posted by funkendrenchman
Also check to see if the "revive" bleed valve is stuck open. That'd allow the post to drop.
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Thanks. I think it just needed the revive a few times. I tried it a couple times last night and couldn't get it to stay up (that's what she said). Tried again this morning and it works.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Yea, it needs to be revived. It’s worth getting one of their mini lever ($10 at Universal Cycles).
I had a first gen Revive that eventually needed multiple “revives” during a single ride (5 years old). Sent it to Dirt Labs for a rebuild. They have an arrangement with Bike Yoke to upgrade all older models to newer internals for no additional charge (other than standard rebuild).
You can also rebuild yourself. My understanding is it’s pretty straight forward.
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The extender (Air Valve Adapter) is $6 at Universal Cycles.Quote:
Originally Posted by funkendrenchman
I might have an extra one if you need.
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Recently rebuilt a BikeYoke v2 after my revive wasn’t reviving. Was pretty straightforward once i got into it.Quote:
Originally Posted by jm2e
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Anyone have any details on new Shimano launches?
I noticed during yesterday’s Rocky Mountain Element Launch they have two models they’ve indicated are coming in “early 2025” but didn’t provide parts spec for them. At a glance, it seems like there are two good gaps for Shimano builds and the lack of detail seems to scream “updated XT and XTR” as I think we’re not expecting
Major suspension updates.
I have no specific info, but given that multiple companies have released frames without accommodations for derailleur cables, I'd bet that wireless XTR will be dropping sometime soon.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tailwind
There are new Shimano groups in the wild. Pinkbike has already released photos of the new brakes, and builders/manufactures are under a super heavy embargo with the new Shimano drivetrain stuff.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
In a recent podcast with Gerald from Open Cycles, there was much discussion around their new frame and whether it will accommodate a UDH hanger, and he keep saying that it will accommodate SRAMs UDH needs as well as the new need for "the other" company. They joked that that's enough they can say without getting in too much trouble.
I know for a fact that Rocky's Element C90 and C50 with be spec'd with Shimano drivetrain and brakes. This is directly from someone inside Rocky, but that all that can be said for now.
I just lost my ProDeal, so something good must be coming...Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Thanks for confirming my tin foil hat theory on the Element (which looks like a sweet bike by the way).
That's interesting to say the least. I am looking at a new XC Race bike for next year. I've been thinking used but I'm not wanting transmission... so I may wait to see what Shimano drops.
On that note - anyone have any current votes for the current "Best" endurance XC race bikes? I'm looking at doing 3-4 of the NUE 100 mile events next year, Kokopelli in a day and other long rides. Current bike is a 2022 Pivot Mach 4 that I like but I'd love slightly more progressive Geo and just a fresh bike as this one has a lot of miles. Short list is currently New Mach 4, Epic 8, Allied BC40 but anything else people really like? Bikes like the Revel Ranger are cool but I'm looking for a lighter frame and a bit firmer suspension design.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
I’m so looking forward to bikes that force us to do headset routing and force us to use $900 electronic derailleurs. Maybe we can get a new BB “standard” too!
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A brake with a static bite point?Quote:
Originally Posted by XtrPickels
**Wireless brakes with a e-daptable bite point that optimizes bite points based on sensors on your wheels.
Quote:
Originally Posted by funkendrenchman
Maybe a post for the fatherhood thread.
Does anyone know if there is a difference beyond the weight/seat shape between the frame mounted Thule Yepp 2 Maxi and Yepp Nexxt 2 Maxi? I've read on at least one mommy blog that the frame mounted versions have some suspension and that the heavier Y2M has more suspension than the YN2M.
It’s a bit annoying, but you can fairly quickly remove the revive assembly that’s blocking the air valve, if you don’t have the valve adapter. See page 21 of the manual.Quote:
Originally Posted by jm2e
https://bikeyoke.com/media/c4/cd/55/...5GMtEAWk40-Nnp
Been riding more lately and still relatively new to this area. It's a lot more long downs and jumps than my primarily techy past. So I'm realizing that I'm right leg dominant, meaning my right is always back on the downs and jumps and my ski-knee just started yelling at me. Switching to left leg back is hard, funky, and fun. It takes a conscious effort to stay on it for sure. Just funny because it's this way with all sports, but I had never really experienced it riding. Although when I think about hitting a hip going left is always preferred to going right, but with wheels on the ground I don't seem to have a stronger side. I'm an old phuck, but still trying to improve this game.
Any you guys actively trying to improve your game?
Oh wait, this is the experts thread...you all are beyond it and just trying to maintain now [emoji23]
I don't know that I'm actively trying to improve, but I'm semi-actively trying to not get worse as I get older.Quote:
Originally Posted by jackstraw
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Same, lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
I do try to switch forward leg a bit and I've gotten more comfortable with having the right leg forward on tech sections and steeps. But can't do it on jumps still.
I broke my left thumb going down the big girl slide at the country fair with my toddler. I have it taped/braced/immobilized into something like a lobster claw. And I'm thinking to myself: You know what I bet a lobster could ride a bike. But lobsters probably can't actuate their dropper posts. Does anybody know of a solution for a right-handed dropper lever?
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^^^ Some of the dropper levers are ambidextrous, especially the vertical push levers bs more shifter style horizontal activated ones.
Mostly not trying to lose it, but have made some skill gains past few years. Re-learned wheelies in my 40s, which I hadn’t done since I was a kid.
I’m not slow, but I’m doubtful going to be getting back to my power numbers from my XC racing days.
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Put your normal lever on top of the bar on the right side.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Huskier
Both bikes' levers are bolted onto a common clamp that also holds my brake. No open posts.Quote:
Originally Posted by carlh
Oh wait, unless I opposed both my brakes too. Hmm...
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Wolf tooth makes a lever that can actuate in any direction. More or less the same as the old crank brothers levers. Could probably find a way to position it on the right side that worked ok.
https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/...xoCFwcQAvD_BwE
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Swapping brakes from side to side sounds like a great way to break your other thumb...Quote:
Originally Posted by Huskier
You should be able to buy a separate clamp for your lever and potentially move it to the other side.
Yep That's what I ended up doing. Props to Ride Bikes for having the solution sitting on the shelf. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...6e14df4885.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by John_B
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