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On my Norco Optic the shock mounting bolts are M6x1.0 and the torque spec is 8 Nm. The hardware to attach the link arm to the frame is M8x1.25 and the torque spec is 10Nm.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lvovsky
if your hardware is actually M8 thread and you don’t want to wait for a spec, I’d just do 9Nm and call it good. Also likely want some blue 242 Loctite on there.
I'm gonna be that guy and advise you not to dry your helmet in direct sun. UV, foam, blah blah blah. Air dry that shit.
Do you only ride in the dark?Quote:
Originally Posted by BigHerm
Hanging it to dry in the sun for a couple hours won't hurt any more than riding for that time. And the UV may well help kill any funky stuff growing in the straps and pads.
nah probably notQuote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
put it in the freezer will kill it
Not at all. Freezing puts most things into hibernation but they grow once thawed.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
Don't do this as you could damage (delam layers) a bike helmet that isn't rated to be stored and go through repeated thermal contract/expansion to -20C in your freezer.
I pre rinse helmet then spray a solution of diluted dawn plus bronners peppermint all over the wet helmet then rinse with hose and maybe dunk it in a bucket of clean water bleach rinse. Hang in sun to dry. Crusty schmegma is gone and smells minty fwesh
BE CAREFUL EXPOSING HELMETS IN CLEANING CHEMICALS!Quote:
Originally Posted by jmedslc
Bleach is compatible with EPS and EPP, kinda compatible with EPE, not sure for EPO. It should be fine on nylon straps.
I'm not sure about bleach vs some of the glues that might be used inside the helmet.
Bleach is NOT recommended for cleaning polycarbonate which is your helmet's external shell and likely most buckles.
If your helmet has KEVLAR, do NOT use bleach.
No idea for bleach compatibility if your helmet has MIPS, a viscoelastic compound, wavecell, etc...
This helmet cleaning thing is weird. Pull the padding out of the full face a couple times a year, hand wash, air dry and replace. For half lids wear until next crash then buy a new one.
You guys probably wear deodorant, blade your eyebrows, and rock banana hammocks.
Sent from my SM-S908U1 using Tapatalk
Other than color, is there any difference between Shimano SLX and XT 12-speed chainrings? The SLX is half the cost.
https://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-SL...RM75-Chainring
XT has steel teeth and last longer if I remember correctly, how many teeth are you looking for?Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
I think the SLX is steel teeth too. Going to pick up a 30T.Quote:
Originally Posted by Eluder
What’s the consensus on Shimano 12s quick links?
Shimano says they’re not reusable but people do and don’t seem to assplode. Will it completely bork up my shifting to use a different brand of link?
Broke a spoke on some Easton EC70 carbon wheels. Having a heck of a time figuring out exactly which spokes and nipples. I broke a non-drive side on the rear wheel.
https://www.jensonusa.com/Easton-Str...SS-2017-Spokes
I've reused mine at least 10x. They also claim 11s ones are single use, but I've used those until the side plates are grooved. YMMV, obviously.Quote:
Originally Posted by Falcon3
Using a SRAM one or other will likely have zero effect on shifting because the chances of that particular link being the one that hits the ramps in any given shift is around 120:1.
You can use any spoke and nipple that fits. Maybe it would help to choose one that's roughly the same thickness to match the tension/stretch, but I'd bet that wouldn't matter a whit.Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
That’s the answer i was looking for, thanks! I’m trying out wax lube (not full queso) and want to be able to remove the chain fairly regularly. I’ll keep rolling with my Shimano link and keep the KmC link I bought as backup.Quote:
Originally Posted by climberevan
Bought some Cable Bobbins from 76projects and put them on the bike.
Looks good, probably can find a different way to attach them, but for now; any reason to worry about the kink in the brake line?
Picture taken at approx 45 degree rotation, it gets worse from therehttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...263d5f9c69.jpg
Yes.Quote:
Originally Posted by sf
The only thing worse than crashing is having a minor crash that would be no big deal, except now you have no rear brake because your hose ripped out because it was tied to your shift cable.
Absolutely agree, but there is enough cable to turn the bars all the way around to 90-100 degrees both ways - I thought I was sorterd out, but perhaps not?Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Or is your point that fixing a cable to another should be avoided as a general rule - in order to not put two cables at risk in case of snagging one on something?
What I was thinking about was the kink in the cable flexing it back and forth - even though 45+ degrees is not that common. As in - will it cause damage to the cable in the long run?
The hose will be fine flexing back and forth a bit. But I don't see any benefit to constraining the hose like you have it. It potentially creates problems in a crash, and it offers zero benefit. And it looks kinda weird.
The only time I use those little cable management widgets is to connect hoses / cables that are coming from the same side of the bar. Never to connect hoses / cables from opposite sides of the bar.
Back in the day I've seen a hydralic hose wear thru where they cross in front of the bars cross but that might have been a hayes hose which were pretty bad, I actualy havent seen any hoses fuck up since that gen 1 era of the hydralic brakes
the mechanic/ engineer who put my Bullit together made cable bobbin things to strap the cables together on the same side of the bar by double looping yellow cable ties to match the yellow Santa cruz logo and it wasnt any problem, I changed some cable housing and cut them off
Back in the day when the braided metal hoses were popular, I saw one of the uncoated metal hoses wear all the way through a frame. But they looked cool, so at least there was that.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
Case closed then, thanks for chiming in.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
In other news; anyone have experience or opinions on dsd Runt? Or other similar products? Looking for even more small bump sensitivity from my Lyrik. Wet off-camber roots etc.
Is it worth the coin? Or should I spend the money on more frequent servicing instead? Or beer?
Anyone know?Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra