I had an old 26" cantilever brake tandem and was considering that same thing. There are tandem rated forks, and apparently that's important to have. I ended up just selling the bike, never did anything about the brakes.
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Oh that’s good to know. So yeah, V brakes it is then. Just need super long rear cable
Tektro 926al mini vee are an excellent upgrade. With kool-stop pads pads they are even better. Compression-less housing would stiffen them up, but I was fine without them.
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That was easy - right where I thought they might be. PM me if you want them. One each, derailleur and brake. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a9f02d47e7.jpg
They're yours. HAB gave me a brake adapter I needed for a bike build, free (wouldn't accept anything for shipping even) - - it's a maggot pay it forward bike parts swap!
Yah I’ve been seeing some info on guys stripping them ( not yet an eagle) and having to cut them off.
Cassette is still in decent shape and I’ll ride it until it breaks and then decide how I’ll deal with this. Wheels are in good shape at least! Probably won’t even put them on a bike till next year.
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If you are switching to V-brakes from Canti, you should also change the lever. Otherwise the brakes will feel really squishy then clamp like a pitbull.
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That's the thing with mini vees. Their ratio is close to cantis. I switched a bunch of old cross bikes to them and they even work with road brifters.
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I like my Paul minimoto mini V
https://www.paulcomp.com/shop/compon...akes/minimoto/
shorty V design so it works with road/canti levers. Comes stock with a set of salmon kool stop pads. Easy to set up. Looks cool.
pair with good housing and should have plenty of stopping power.
kid broke his chain for the 2nd time in 6 months. 2 quick links right next to each other now. should i think about just replacing? has a race this wknd and don't want any issues.
drivetrain is a little older so maybe that factoring in? his shifting could def use some work. he seems to take off in his high gear alot which prob puts a lot more strain on his chain.
Or a poorly manufactured chain.
I'd replace before a race. If he breaks the new one, then a discussion on how to shift
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he wasn't that big as a teen but junior was strong and hard on equipment, he used to pull apart Sram quick links as a teen, he did it at least a couple of times, pulled one apart 10 min before a race so I took to riveting them together with the chain tool instead of using the quick link and that worked so he could break something else
He snapped 3 square taper spindles, i think he could probably snap one on command and he broke a frame completly in half
he grew out of it
I have never heard anything like this outside of local bike shops. Is this based in real magic?
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Just my experience (and the experience of most people I know). Mixing and matching brands works in a nominal sense, but it pretty clearly works worse in every combination I've tried. If you want good shifting, your cassette and your chain should be the same brand.
And just so I'm clear, I'm only talking about matching the chain to the cassette. All the other bits and pieces of the drivetrain can be whatever as long a they're compatible-ish.
Shimano 12 (HG+) changed the game, pretty much Shimano/Shimano only, or you are missing out on the magic, in terms of shifting under load.
He could break quick links but never broke a riveted chains, but YMMV as they say
These were 9 spd chains ( Sram 971 ?) which got changed every season, press the pin in and wiggle the chain sideways till the links were not binding
I've used mostly better quality Sram, KMC, less Shimano ( which uses a rivet BTW ) as long as its the correct chain for the number of speeds a chain is a chain IME