An MS661 goes goes for about $1500CAD new. A magnum 880 (120CC) goes for north of $2000. And this for saw tech that is not 40+years old, and is almost half the weight.Quote:
Originally Posted by bodywhomper
Printable View
An MS661 goes goes for about $1500CAD new. A magnum 880 (120CC) goes for north of $2000. And this for saw tech that is not 40+years old, and is almost half the weight.Quote:
Originally Posted by bodywhomper
Something is majorly wrong. I've been an arborist/tree climber/ residential logger for 46 years. Cluches almost never break, let alone wear out. Clutch springs will occasionally fail, but not often.Quote:
Originally Posted by BeardedClam
Things to check:
Bearing between clutch drum and crankshaft end--make sure it isn't worn out. Look for wobble in the clutch drum. None to minimal is good. Excessive, replace. Cheap part, good to replace. At the least, pack it with a bit of grease. This bearing only gets wear when a saw is idling. When the clutch engages, all parts turn as a unit.
How you use the saw. Don't force it in a cut. Only cut at full throttle. If the chain binds, let off the throttle immediately so as not to smoke the clutch.
A bad crank bearing would most likely have blown out the seal and caused an air leak, which would mean the saw wouldn't idle and run smoothly, and the carb settings wouldn't be where they should be. So, that could be your problem. Pull the muffler, to check for any signs of new scoring on the exhaust side of the piston and the intake side of the cylinder. An air leak can cause a lean condition and make a mess of a piston in no time. hope it ain't happening, but if it is, usually the cylinder will be fine. Any transferred aluminum from the piston can be removed with muiatic acid.
If the crank bearing is so bad that it's the cause of your clutch problems, the saw may be toast. Bottom end repair is neither easy or cheap.
Good luck!
Guys, go to youtube.com/rbtree to see my treework videos... There's some way technical rigging for life support on my last vid...and my "2002 Tree Work" one got me and Wesspur's Dave Stice kinda famous.... a tad....
When I googled just now, I saw an arboristsite.com thread debating on cost where the asking price was $4500. I can’t tell if people are buying these as a collector piece or for use. There was another chat forum where peeps were bumming that there were only 3 left in NZ.Quote:
Originally Posted by BCMtnHound
It seems like it’d be a good saw for milling.
That 090 looks to have been rode hard and put away wet! I've never owned one, and the only time I've run one was at a logging show. It was piped, race ported and running on alcy. 24 in bar, and race chain!! Prolly pulling 30 hp. Stock is 9. Wheee!!! But, I've also run Rotax Robert's Predator... two man unlimited hotsaw and the fastest of the lot. 407 pounds! Robert's fastest cut has been 0.7 seconds in 30" cottonwood!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Meadow Skipper
I have two Husqvarna 3120's. One is mated to a stumpgrinder that will go anywhere. Pain to use, but I can charge close to $200/hr to use it. The other was woods ported way back in 2002, and is probably pulling about 13 horsepower.
a couple of fallers who were smaller guys ( like 5'8" ) have told me they run smaller saws that are ported so they get more power while lifting less weight
I’m sure that 090 would do well with some modifications.
I’m considering doing a muffler mod on my ms241. Just need to figure the best/simple way.
I modded the muffler on my ms361 and it was super simple. People on arboristsite had worked it out to a simple formula that included location and size of new hole and the spark arrestor sku to buy that perfectly fits over the hole. I have not seen anything spelled out as clearly for the ms241.
I hope you are a large strong person, its 10lbs heavier than the largest saws on the market right now which is a LOT of weight to lug around, its got no anti-kickback mechanism, old tech, older everything, probably burns more fuel than a modern saw anything breaks where do you get the part ... good luck with all that
why do you want to modify your 241 ?
I ain’t buying that 090. I was just sharing the listing in case somebody here would be interested. It still seems like it’d work out well attached to a mill.
The ms241... my interest in modding the muffler is to get more power. Especially if it’s a simple mod. It’s my go-to saw when I’m on my little property felling, thinning and clearing out small trees; especially if I’m doing it for many hours. I get worn out much quicker doing that same work with my ms361.
I have plenty of use for the ms361, too; currently, bucking and noodling. My little property is wood heavy for its size.
Chainsaws make terrible mills, but if a 90cc saw is sitting in the shop lonely, then it could a fun toy with a beam/cant cutter or alaskan mill. But kerf and other cutting efficiencies really highlight the benefits of small portable bandsaw mill.
I can't help but think that old carbureted iron workhorse would make an excellent go-cart project.
Fuck yeah!Quote:
Originally Posted by BCMtnHound
Just add a port..on the side. If there's room, you can buy a deflector for a Husky... I think most any---346---357..372.... Two screws, fits right on.. if you're in fire country, add some screen material. I don't bother, as I work in the Puget Sound lowlands.... for that saw, a 1/2" id hole should be good....keep the existing port, or just enlarge it. That works for most Stihl's, which, by the way, are horribly constricted.. at least since about 2000. Heck, even a 460's single port is a tiny 3/8 to 7/16..all to satisfy the EPA. Now, my woods ported 3120 has twin front firing 1" tubes. Hate the location, can damn near catch dry bark on fire, and does create bad fumes, especially for butt cuts or milling.Quote:
Originally Posted by bodywhomper
True, but they work. My friend, that crafted my awesome cherry live edge fireplace mantle, and a huge kitchen countertop extension, out of black locust, has boatloads of slabs that he's milled. He has an alaskan that will mill up to about 5', and powers it with an 088. You use what you got. And he has it going on! He worked for Seattle Tree Preservation for years, and had an endless supply of woods! I've milled two birches with a borrowed 42" mill. Nice stuff! Here's a link to the images. You'll see a few bowls that my wood turner has given me. as I've supplied him with raw material for years... I have more, but those images are only on my phone....Quote:
Originally Posted by BCMtnHound
https://www.flickr.com/photos/rbtree...57713364548216
https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...b0&oe=5ED44944
Thanks! That’s exactly what I did for my ms361 (husky deflector with spark screen - Cali foothills). I’ll have to double check, but I’m pretty sure there’s room on the muffler.Quote:
Originally Posted by rbtree
a chain sawmill eats a lot of wood in the processQuote:
Originally Posted by BCMtnHound
up here people will buy a bandsaw mill if they actualy have a need and maybe they got standing timber, they mill the lumber they need and sell the bandsaw mill so someone else can repeat the process, a buddy of mine got all the beams for her post n beam addition like that, some of those stems may have been on crown land ;)
I spoke to two contract portable millers in my area when our utility was dropping over 20 large pine trees in our property because of pine beetle deaths. They both had bandsaw mills, which was their preference to use, but both had AK milling set-ups, too. I think their ak mills get use when it’s too difficult to use their bigger mills.
Sure, but for folks that slab valuable woods, a bandsaw mill large enough to handle good sized wood costs way into 5 figures.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
That said, I have images and video of Urban Hardwoods' ancient 7' bandsaw mill!! They were the first around here to get into hi-end live edge wood products production in a big way....Their tables can run over $25,000! I traded them 2 birch slabs which I'd done (aong with a bunch more) with my bud's 42" Alaskan mill. I had them slab a maple butt I'd painstakingly rigged hi lead logging style 100 feet down a gradual slope. My friend wants to buy a decent sized bandsaw mill. I can't recall if he said he'd located one. But I told him about another friend that wants to sell his Lucas... an 8" circular saw mill with 6' slabbing attachment. Again, lots of wood lost in the kerf cuts.
The stems are smaller up here so the mills are smaller/cheaper and every cut with a chainsaw mill destroys 3/8th of inch of your already small stem,
I'm just talking about cutting beams for a post & beam house
For sure. 3-4 pounds lighter than a stock 90cc and will cut faster with the right mods to increase torque and hp. Dreaming of a ported and tuned 461 if I can ever find one.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
yeah this last guy i talked to wasnt a big guy but he looked powerful, said he owned 3 of the 461's, best saw he's ever owned, got em reworked on Vancover island where the tuner has a 1.5yr backlog
I shit you not, this guy is stump grinding with a chainsaw in flip flops.
https://youtu.be/nCGYDQEcoA8
Lol not to mention you could just rent a stump grinder instead of probably destroying your chainsaw and not getting the stump outQuote:
Originally Posted by Rideski
I really, really hate using a manual pole saw to limb the deciduous trees at my place, so given the enthusiasm on TRG for battery powered saws I decided to kick down for a battery-powered pole chainsaw. I’ve been a gas-powered saw guy for some time and I was skeptical. Bottom line, I’m impressed. It’s only got a 10 inch bar but it cuts great. Got a Milwaukee because I’m already invested in their M18 power hand tools. It’d be great if the pole was a little longer but it’s hard enough to balance on long reaches with the extension it came with. But the main thing is now I’m open to battery saws, at least for a home owner rig.
Attachment 327549
What do you all like for electrics? My smallest gas saw is 50cc and I’m looking for something light to run a 12” or so bar on.
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
Acckkkk.!! The moron got lotsa criticism in the comments, including a few from me...long after the fact... He's good natured..about his only good trait...Quote:
Originally Posted by Rideski
I’ve been using the Stihl msa 200 C-BQ hard, and it’s far exceeded my expectations. With a hip mounted battery it’s feels like a lightweight toy, yet performs like a pro saw.Quote:
Originally Posted by bizarrefaith
Hey what would you guys charge for this gig.
25 foot but very spindly Aspen maybe 10” at the trunk, dead for a couple years. It was a second trunk (not connected) to main bushier tree.
Needed to be dropped a little off the direction it naturally wanted to fall, which would have been into phone and power lines. That said, the branches that would have hit the lines probably would have broken before snapping the lines or even the attachments of the lines to the house/pole, but wouldn’t have made a good impression even if no damage done.
Broke/cut up wood and left it there.
I had a mental lapse this evening and felled a small pine into a distribution line. The tree went right where I planned, except that I misjudged the height of the tree and the height of the line. Damn! Fuck! Not something I ever plan to repeat. It was my fourth tree of the evening. Lines were fine and a switch flipped as soon as it happened, but a bunch of us lost power for a little while. I cleaned it up myself. And a neighbor with great awareness came running out of the house (concerned for my safety when he lost power).
When my wife went under the house to flip our manual transfer switch for the generator, she observed that our main waterline had a large leak under the house. Damnit! Luckily, our local grocery store had some fiber fix repair wrap (plumbing stores and hardware stores were already closed. The wrap is holding.... all this after a 60 hrs 6-day work week. Fnka! Gonna do some more tree felling tomorrow and Sunday, but I will stay aware from the area that I want to thin near our lines until another day.
So I’ve known about Oregon chains for a while, didn’t realize till last night they make their own saws. Seems affordable. What’s up with this self sharpening chain system? Seems like it’s going to be really good or really bad..
That self-sharpening system is a revival of a product that was around over 46 years ago. Before I became a full time climber, my landscaper boss had one. At that time, the chain was called Barracuda, and there was a stone built into the saw. Turn a knob and the stone contacted the cutters while you revved the saw. The new system is the same, but requires the nose-tip attachment. The chain design is sucky. Only good for occasional use.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rideski
I know nothing about the Oregon battery and corded saws....
My min. charge is $250, if I don't need to bring the truck/chipper....that task sounds like a 5 minute job. Plus travel....I hear plane flights are dirt cheap these weird days, lol....Quote:
Originally Posted by Rideski
Thanks. I poked around some local rates and $135 seems like a minimum.
I spent my time scoping out the situation but was only cutting for 15 minutes. I used a pole saw to take off the majority of the upper limbs to take the weight off in case I missed. But that’s the hitch, I do painting and light carpentry at $40 per hour, but if you’re only cutting for 5 minutes...
These people were way old and we were helping each other out. They gave me some nice referrals. I was happy with those plus $100.
I’ve been reading about plastic vs metal gear wheels in some of the cheap saws. Clearly plastic can’t be good. I think I’ll probajly end up with a small quiver of saws. Nice to have a cheap saw for nasty stuff like dirty pinion. Wouldn’t mind having a better saw in the rare time I cut something bigger.
I had an arborist help with a project out of my league a while back, he was super stoked on his mini gas powered pole saw.
Excellent. Well played!!
You might like this https://youtu.be/i3iy85iHPGU
Y’all forgot to tell me trimming dead limbs 20 feet up on a large mature crabapple is evelenty billion times harder that it needs to be.
^ Limbing deciduous trees is a major PITA. Major.
Too late? Too soon?
This was a different animal. I’ve trimmed maple, American Elm, Siberian elm, ash, Aspen, birch among others. Never seen a tree so snaggly and hard. I mean I’m sure there’s worse out there. Just not that I’ve seen.
I'm pretty sure my neighbor's Apple tree is right up there. It's never been pruned/limbed/etc in the 7 years I've lived here.
All I can do is trim what's on my side of the fence and casually mention once a year that 200+ water sprouts = not ideal.
I’ve wrestled with this for a few hours. Replaced the chain and bar. And now the cover won’t go on right. Since I’ve only pulled it off twice I’m not familiar enough to see what’s fouling me up. The adjuster screw is lined to a T. The problem appears to revolve around the flat circle metal and the male next to it.
It needed a chain. Replaced chain. Cut for 15 mins. Decided time to replace bar, low glide and friction on tip. Now with manufacturer replacement bar I’m having trouble. Do recall more of a pull-off of cover the 2nd time me thinks. Husky 435 Attachment 329929Attachment 329930
Could it be your chain brake was set before you removed the cover? The metal ring looks like the brake is set to me. See here; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I1yKJzvhnj8
Is the chain brake - the circle of flat metal - engaged? The plastic hand guard in front of the metal front handle needs to be unengaged by pulling it back, otherwise if it’s forward it tightens that circle of flat metal around the clutch (the thing with the springs in it on the body of the saw. If the brake handle is forward, it’ll tighten that circle and make it hard/impossible to get the cover on/off. The flat metal circle/brake may be stuck in the tightened position. You may have to jigger (technical term) the mechanism that activates/moves that flat metal circle to get it to open up so you can put the cover on. It’s that thing with the three wings/fingers/petals/whatever (my vocabulary-low light is blinking).
That circle of flat metal tightens on the clutch when it’s engaged, to keep the chain from moving.
BTW, https://www.devicemanuals.eu/wp-cont...rna-435-EN.pdf
Edit, Bronco said it while I was typing and searching. And use compressed air and or a brush to clean the cover and body out.