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Very cool thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Ha!Quote:
Originally Posted by buttahflake
Another data point, I am 6'3" 36" legs ~81cm saddle height. I ran 180s for years then got a couple bikes stock with 170s. The short cranks feel better descending and I quickly go used to the climbing. I now have 170s on my FS and cargo bikes, 172.5 on the cross bike and 175 on the hardtail. All work fine. I still pedal strike all the time on the FS (transition sentinel so it is long and low).
Yes, hard science that disproves cadence dogma is "interesting."Quote:
Originally Posted by buttahflake
DT swiss ring nut anyone else had beef getting it out?
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I like that crank length video. Good find.
Clamp the tool in the vice, use the wheel as a huge steering wheel to twist it out. That’s the only way to break it free. A “little” bit of heat helps loosen it up. Don’t overcook it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossymcg
Can anyone recommend some reading on frame geometry? Out of sheer idleness I was reading that it's a bad idea to but drop bars on any old mtb, because the reach is often long. Just curious what's bad about this, which has spiraled into a general curiosity on the impact of various aspects of frame geometry.
You can put drop bars on your old MTN bike. Just get a super tall and short stem to put the drops in the right position for you.
Just go to the bike shop and dig in the boxes of old stems and bars and find a combo that fits.
Mall walker is bringing up a great topic
my 30+ yr old mtn bike has a long stem in the 100mm range so would you not still want a long stem ?
the last old parts bins at the LBS I rummaged thru was full of 100mm long stems
I use normal bars with goofy looking but effective barends on my old touring/ mtnbike
You want a short and tall stem to put drop bars on a mtn bike, because riding on the hoods puts your hands much farther forward.
Or use a trekking bar if you want more hand positions and can keep your mtn bar controls too.
Geeking out should start and end with Sheldon brown
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/deakins/handlebars.html
He’s an encyclopedia.Quote:
Originally Posted by simple
This guy made it work.Quote:
Originally Posted by mall walker
Attachment 334564
John Tomac, 1990, Mt Snow, NORBA Nationals. He won the Hillclimb, XC & DH all on the that same fully rigid drop-bar Yeti.Quote:
Originally Posted by Skistack
I was there!
Tomac is using a really long Tioga ( what else ) stem
riding my drop bar road bike I am mostly on the hoods and very rarely on the dropouts
which is probably why I like the geeky bar end/on mtn bike bars for a touring bike so I can just keep running normal deore trigger shifters
I can hear that tension disc right now.Quote:
Originally Posted by Skistack
I raced in the Sport class in both the uphill and XC that week, what a freaking party.Quote:
Originally Posted by rideit
The sound that disc wheel made as Johnny T came roaring out of the woods was insane! I’ll never forget that week.
Didn’t he do it to mimic his road position? Had a pro European contract iirc.
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Yeah, he was on 7-11/Motorola for a couple of years.
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I did this to an 2011ish steel mtb and rode it as a gravel bike for a couple years. The geo was funky but was also kinda fun on singletrack. Gravel specific short reach drop bars helped too.Quote:
Originally Posted by simple
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I want that Tomac Yeti....
anyone have a oneup pump with tool? Debating getting one just want to know if it’s worth the $150....
Yes and yes. I have the OneUp EDC top cap cut into 2 of my bikes. And the EDC tool gets moved between bikes. I screw a 20g CO2 canister on the bottom of it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandbox
My wife prefers to carry a pump and not use CO2s. So I bought the 70cc mini with the EDC tool stored inside.
All solid pieces of equipment.
yah the reviews are good, most seem to like them for sure and it would eliminate any bag or shit in my pocket for the majority of my rides...Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
I have the tool + tire plug kit in the stem on a couple of bikes. Have the mini pump with a c02 in it as well. No issues. Love having repair stuff attached to bikes for packless and worry free riding.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandbox
I find the stem tool a bit of a pain to get out if you slam it in all the way. I find it you just let it fall in with gravity it will seat itself enough that it’s not coming out while riding but then is easier to get out when needed.
So crazy watching old mtb footage. The bikes! :eek: I'll never forget my first true downhill on a completely rigid frame. I probably got a concussion from just riding downhill with no suspension ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
https://www.pinkbike.com/news/throwb...early-90s.html
I remember riding porcupine on a rigid for the first time, my eyes couldn’t focus and my teeth hurt. I had to stop a few times because of this. Not to mention my fingers.
And the flats!
And we thought we were being smashy.
Video now would be hilarious,
This isn’t on some weird planet normal or intentional by Yeti right? Had some creaking, pulled the BB, found this...ummmm.
Attachment 334695
I’ve just recently started watching Hambini on YouTube, the guy’s hilarious and all I think/wish he would analyze a Yeti...although it’s probably better we don’t know the true engineering behind the layup.Quote:
Originally Posted by volklpowdermaniac
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qCgpVv07gUk
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I'll answer my own question. Yes, you can do this.Quote:
Originally Posted by cmor
Attachment 334747
I'm a big Hambini fan, I watch him all the time and just laugh at his cursing and insults to the engineers.Quote:
Originally Posted by robnow
My local shop carries OPEN, sells a few a year, I was really interested to watch this one. Made me reconsider my "want" for an OPEN.
Experts—my Knolly cache carbon fork did not come with an expansion plug. What expansion plugs are folks using for carbon forks that allow you to use your own top cap? The FSA plug and king top cap don’t play nicely.
Believe it or not, that's not the problem. Yes, it looks bad but that's really just part of carbon layup. The creaking you heard is the devil, aka, press-fit bottom brackets; now, finally, thankfully, going out of fashion. The only true fix is to replace the BB with any of the thread-in pressfit BBs like the Enduro TorqTite, Wheels Manufacturing PF30Threaded, or Cane Creek Hellbender.Quote:
Originally Posted by volklpowdermaniac
Broke a spoke on my rear wheel on the way up a climb today. So dumb. Was taking a photo of my bike and it fell over and landed just right on a golf ball sized rock and snapped a spoke clean where nipple meets rim. Ibis 742 carbon with DT Swiss 350 hub. I was livid and push on anyway with the spoke dangling. I finished the climb and then ripped the DH and got a KOM. Rugged fucking trail too, so these wheels are tough.
Super ghetto to just take that one spoke off completely? I can use dykes and get it without pulling the cassette.
I do every bit of work on my bike besides wheels.....guess I need to start since all shops are weeks out on any service. IDK how I find out what spoke I would need to replace it anyway.
^Not an expert, but this website https://kstoerz.com/freespoke/ or something similar with a spoke calculator is what the mechanics would use at the shop my brother used to work at.
Use a spoke length calculator to input your rim, hub and lacing pattern. Standard J spikes right? Just take the old one off, lace in the new one, tension a little past correct, back off till it’s right (half turn or so each way) and ride. Check and retension after a couple rides.
Done and done.
Like this spoke length calculator. Good link.Quote:
Originally Posted by SKIP IN7RO
Sure the spoke broke?Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
Probably the nipple