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Damn that's pretty. What kind(s) of stone? Always get jealous of any options outside of pine/fir. Certain transplants here love to pay for hardwoods to be delivered to their 2nd home.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hood26
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It is a Western Interlock kit. Their plant is local to my area.
We have the Deschutes kit.
What's the approximate cost on the kit? Their website has a quote request form to fill out so a sales person can call to give you a price....Quote:
Originally Posted by Hood26
Any hard earned advice on woodshed builds? Looking to build one this summer. Probably 8’x20’ ish. Would like to get 6-8 cords in it with a little room for yard equipment. Have a line on metal roofing. Pier blocks vs poured footers? General designs? Any advice appreciated
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Our install guy gave us his cost for the kit. We had a 10x10 patio and the fireplace installed for $7k. The wood box alone is $520, he se we went with one instead of two.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco
The kit can be a DIY, but just know it was pretty intensive. It needs a concrete pad foundation. Specific joint compound, and timed phased install; basically needs a day to set up between each tier.
Went home to France a couple weeks ago and my dad recruited me to help clean up some dry stuff on various plots of land he owns. Mostly skinny trees leaning over a river with the occasional decent size piece up to 50cm in diameter.
Had to pull some of them with the ancient AEBI using cable/pulley so we wouldn't lose them into the water. Cut everything in 1 m pieces, split on site, hauled it all back to the house, stacked it. About 15 steres when it was all said and done, should keep the house warm for a few more winters.
First load, some white maple, some green alder, some ash.
Attachment 419043
Splitting. So much easier than with the old home-built splitter, that thing was horizontal and a major pain in the dick to use. The new one is an absolute beast.
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Hauling loads back to the house. The AEBI has been in the family since forever, my dad's uncle bought it sometime in the 60s. It's still going strong but is so hilariously slow when loaded. In 1st low it's barely crawling along but could probably go up anything you put in its way regardless of the load. The monocylinder engine is probably not what you want for speed...
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Freshly stacked:
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The real purpose of cutting wood is to create napping spots:
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Biking thru south France it struck me all the tree's must have been harvested at least once cuz you look up at the canopy and it seemed too neat to be natural, the stone buildings were neatly repaired instead of getting ripped down, there was no old junk lying around, very nice
those links don't work btw
Just bought this, qualifies for 25D tax credit at 26% and the Montana $1000 tax rebate. 77% HHV efficiency.
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That lifestyle would suit me very much.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
I feel real damn dumb for asking this but why split 1m rounds into sticks and then cross cut those down to stove size for stacking? I’ve always cross cut rounds to a desired length then split and stacked.
I have the hardest time leaving after 2 weeks out there. It's such a different pace. Granted the parents are retired and I'm there on vacation but still... I particularly enjoy sitting down for real meals that always end with espresso and a square of dark chocolate. None of that eating at the desk bullshit. Napping post lunch is also something I could get behind.Quote:
Originally Posted by zion zig zag
Split dries faster and 1m stacks easier I think. Things don't dry super fast over there since it's fairly humid so the paternal unit stacks crossed to improve airflow. After a few years of drying he cuts the 1m into 40cm pieces which are re-stacked closer to the house for burning that winter. He's a bit anal about the whole process.Quote:
Originally Posted by present tense
I was working outside today when an old man drove down my driveway. He told me that he’d owned my house about 30 years ago. He’s a realtor. Back then he’d buy a home, do some improvements and flip the house a few years later. He told me that he painted the inside and outside of my home, replaced most of the windows, and planted about 1,000 Douglas Fir sprouts with the idea of a Christmas tree farm. It’s under 2 acres…..
Now I know why there are hundreds of 30 year old Doug fir living as understory on the property. We’ve spent hundreds of hours cleaning these out. For the longest time, I thought there must be a big momma Doug fir somewhere nearby and some previous owner suddenly stopped maintaining the property. Now I know…
We cut some oak today. Hopefully get a little more done before it gets hot and dry. Attachment 419759
Used some friends hookaroon the other day while we were processing some wood for the stove and immediately ordered myself one. What a great tool! I only wish someone had introduced me to it sooner.
handier than a hole in the butt
Also ran their husky 572 for a few logs. Checked prices and decided I'd have to be satisfied with just the hookaroon. ;)
Took advantage of the dry low humidity, relatively biting insect free day yesterday to work the firewood assembly line.
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The core/plunge cuts save the day!Quote:
Originally Posted by Grange
Plunge cut to establish the hinge?
IMO, I think grange made a good decision.
With the new hookaroon and sawbuck I'm making pretty quick work of some beetle kill that our friends dropped off in the driveway after they logged the neighbor's property. Every time I do actual work up here at 10k I'm reminded of how much harder it is than working at home at 5k.
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Dropped the first tree on my list of “if I had time before evacuation, what’d I drop.”
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It had a bit of a back lean and branch weight towards the house (my bedroom!).
CH would call it “old growth” ;)
Now that the tree is gone you'd better get going raking your forest! That looks like a good tree to have gone.
Hopefully the only raking I’ll need to do is for control lines in the late fall :).
This book is back in print. It’s been a good written resource for me. It’s got WAY more info than I need, such as climbing and in-the-tree rigging systems, but includes all of the info that I need for my various projects. If you search, there’s also a digitized version available for purchase.
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the BC fallers training standard is on-line and really good,
it used to be easier to get a faller's ticket but I think its now 30days
https://www.worksafebc.com/en/resour...part-1?lang=en
I agree. I learned a lot and continue to learn from the bc fallers training.
With a respite from the heat comes the stacking.
Noodling and processing
Attachment 429367
The foreground is recently felled black oak. I’m noodling to get manageable sizes to load into my trailer to redeposit at a better spot on the property for seasoning. Will do similar with the seasoned black oak in the midground.
Figured out last night that my bigger saw has some sort of air leak. Even with fresh carb kit, it was misbehaving a lot at idle. Was also getting floater random baby sparks at full throttle when cutting coming out from what appeared to be the clutch area.
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Had a good three days of cutting wood in the Chequamegon-Nicolet national forest for the winter. All three loads are at least 85% oak with the remainder being maple. I started splitting this afternoon with an eight pound splitting maul. I may try to get another load if I find time between grouse hunts with my dog.
I was splitting a white oak limb that I trimmed off a tree by my house this past winter and was surprised on how stringy it was. I'm used to splitting red oak and it usually splits fairly cleanly, but white oak is a pain.
Splitting the white and red oak when it’s green or dried?
Red oak usually splits cleanly wet or dry. If it is wet it can be a little stringy in the knotty areas, but nothing like white oak. The white oak was only partially dry. It was cut in links and stacked in February, but not split. It would likely need another 4-6 months once split to be dry enough for my fireplace.
California black oak is supposed to split cleanly when it’s wet. I haven’t experienced that,?though, cuz I never get around to splitting it until it’s dry. Sometimes my sharp splitting axe will barely pierce it. Sometimes it’s even stringy when dry and I’m using a big splitter.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bodywhomper
https://old.reddit.com/r/ThatsInsane...lucky_she_was/
Give it a good freeze, then splitQuote:
Originally Posted by Grange
If i was burning wood the next thing i would buy after the saw is an electric log spliter
I’ve been under the impression that the E-splitters don’t have the power to split the big hardwood. Maybe I’m wrong? The gas hydraulic splitters that i rent are vertical and sometimes take a few compressions(?) to get through the rounds.
That Beranek book is great! I’m pretty sure YouTube told me to watch video several years ago …. :)
Any reason not to consider the $329 harbor freight electric splitter for breaking down beetle kill pine?
Duno, I used an electric 6 ton at a ski hut and it split every thing which would be green softwood maybe up to 18" , sometimes I had to take a couple of trys, it was horizontal action screwed to a post in the shed, its good to get them up off the ground at about waist level IME
it seemed cheap & reliable, they come on sale locally once or twice a year
My general rule is hardwoods green and softwoods seasoned.Quote:
Originally Posted by bodywhomper