All the ones that got replaced today. Attachment 249857
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All the ones that got replaced today. Attachment 249857
A lot of what you've shared impresses me but this one is over the top. How'd you figure out that a Nissan minivan alternator would fit and/or work in a Porsche? I'm gonna guess that its not just a case of having one lying around and saying "oh what the fuck I'll give this one a shot."
Alas, as much as I'd like to have come up with it myself, the 944 trubo guys on rennlist figured this one out a while ago.
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Did you put rubber bushing back in, or polyurethane?
I put poly bushings in an F250...They lasted forever but made the truck ride rough af.
Different world from a BMW though.
Re: land cruiser rack: how did u (or how does one) evaluate the condition of the entire steering rack? My cruiser has been to two mechanics the past few years and i have been told by both that the rack is on its way out, should be overhauled in the next few years, and to monitor how much and frequency I'm adding fluid to the ps reservoir. We have a sienna, and am getting the same messaging. The sienna has 120k miles on the rack. Unknown mileage on the cruiser rack.
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I think my rack is leaking, but not too bad. I don't have any slop in the rack itself, so putting that adventure off. I put poly steering rack bushings in, they just make the steering more precise, no added roughness. The sway bar bushings are oem rubber style, and I'm not going to tackle control arm bushings. So any increased firmness in the ride is due to the Bilstein HD shocks. But they are an oem+ style ride. Just a little bit firmer than stock. Pretty pleased with how it drives now.
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Thanks
Ol Skoolin last Sunday...F350 rear drums...
Well I finally got around to getting the alternator in the Porsche. Nissan quest alternator in Porsche. It fits! Who'da think it. Racers I guess rennlist dudes. I didn't have a proper terminal insulator, so I used a spare piece of hose and a zip tie.
Gonna try to button it up tomorrow so I can drive it again!
One bolt was a major bitch and took over an hour to get out, and it started to round off on me. It had seized in the block, so even once I got it to break loose, it was still super tight and a nightmare to get out. Bad spot too. Super tough to get to. I would have had to pull the intake and the turbo to get to it. I ended up using a pry bar to press down on the box wrench to turn an eighth of a turn at a time for most of the way out.
Attachment 250272Attachment 250273Attachment 250274Attachment 250275
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I've got an alt job I need to do too, but the internals. Lost one in serious BFE (Baker, NV if you want to google it).
Thankfully, I've done the rebuild before, so fingers crossed. It's a 100amp Delco, so not too of a small hand's job inside or mount.
Anyone help me understand this gremlin? B6 S4 Avant. Driving the other day and the clutch starts to get very tight when disengaging it. Then the steering gets tight as well. Pull over and within a minute the car is completely dead. Won't try to turn over at all. I cab it to work and leave it. Next day, fires up immediately. As I sit in it idling, clutch starts to get heavy again and I assume the same is going to happen so turn it off to retain some juice to move it to the tow truck. Mechanic runs some diagnostics, drives it upwards of 20 miles and cant find a thing. Probably just some loose shit somewhere but any other ideas?
just spitballin' here... maybe a bad/connection to alternator but an ok battery?
would it be enough to start it and get you going but promptly burn off the charge without the alternator juicing it? thereby an impending decline for the clutch and PS. might take a day before the battery recovers from the shock of such a big power drain so fast. And in short order the batt wouldn't work at all.
kinda been here.:rolleyes:
Does the engine begin to bog when all of this happens? Like steering and clutch all get weak as engine bogs? Or does engine keep running and feel fine, and dies after? Sounds like engine is cutting out and other engine assisted hydraulic functions are crapping out as a result. Not sure if the clutch hydraulic system would be integrated at all in this or if you have a leaking cylinder somewhere on that system.
If it still turns on for a test drive, you should sell it as fast as you can.
Before you need to pull it out for any timing related issues.
Attachment 250465
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Engine doesn’t bog. Hydraulics just tighten up and then the car slowly loses power and function.
Timing chain and tensioners etc are already done. Car only has 83k on it and otherwise runs amazing. I just drive it weekends and it’s not going anywhere but this shit just pops up every now and then.
Djongo - yeah probably a connection issue and not an actual faulty major part.
Another day another lift. Attachment 250520
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But wouldn't that require that the power steering pump be electric powered, and same with the clutch hydraulics? That doesn't make sense to me.
Good looking out for the timing chain stuff. I'm sure the car is a blast to drive.
Oooh. Accessory belt tensioner! Belt loses tension when it gets hot, begins to slip on everything, power steering pump, and alternator, so steering gets hard, car still drives while battery powers everything, then battery begins to die and eventually motor shuts down. Tensioner cools off, functions again for a time, and then gets hot and fails again.
Still doesn't explain the clutch getting hard unless the clutch is assisted electrically, or hydraulically .
Edit. Clutch on those is pretty standard operation. Master cylinder, slave cylinder, throw out bearing etc. So you may have a problem with the throw out bearing dying, (any rattle before the condition appears, or any time?). And when it gets hot, it stops wanting to slide on the transmission input shaft sleeve, or however that one is put together. That would make the clutch increasingly hard to press. If it is your throw out bearing, you are dropping the transmission.
At the same time, things keep getting hotter in the engine bay and your belt begins to slip, and your power steering begins to get harder, and then eventually engine dies.
I'm assuming you have no power steering leaks.
Any belt squeal?
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Do the clutch and power steering share the same fluid reservoir? Could that be the relation?
The loose belt makes sense. But yeah, why is the clutch getting stiff?
Would hear a squealy loose belt
I'm also not specifically familiar with his setup, but
Sounded like throw out aka release bearing to me also. When they break they get tight. Trans input bearing retainer can be damaged when that happens. Also seen clutch pedal assemblies crack causing weird tightness.
Also would be very curious how the mechanical/standard clutch fluid setup would have anything to do with dead battery / no power steering. Never heard of power steering hydroboost clutches Haha, but fuck if the Germans wouldn't find a reason to do it. This thing electric or fluid ps? I'm kinda thinking we have multiple faults occurring at same / similar timing.
It should be throwing some codes somewhere in the process, no?
Quote:
If it still turns on for a test drive, you should sell it as fast as you can.
Before you need to pull it out for any timing related issues.
Attachment 250465
"Designed with scalloped seals by Yngwie Malmsteen to shred hydrocarbon molecules in search of the elusive Crowley Boson."
Yngwie Malmsteen. thank you for that. FYI - My spitballin comes from this: about '85 I slid a Honda accord into the ditch. we got it out and it ran about 5 miles. Then all the systems started to bog then just shut off. Figured out that the car had high centered or something and the Alt belt came off the pulley wheel. Some shit must have really tweaked cuz when it's snug, that belt is hard to move even 1/4 ". Local farmer guy gave us some big pry bars and we wrestled it back on. Drove home.