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mildbill (of Kirkweed gang lore) has reported enjoying the 29 Aeffect R wheels.
It seems like they’ve come a long way since the original Aeffect 23mm rim that was soft like butter and horrible Aeffect freehub which not only had a ridiculous nearly 20 degrees of engagement but also nearly emptied itself of grease after not much abuse. No I was not a fan of the original wheelset of that name ...
Just to follow up on a tire discussion from a ways back: man the dhr2 in 27.5x2.4 is a killer tire for PNW, been super pleases with it, also now running a forekaster on the rear of my trail hardtail in 29x2.35 that tire is stupid fun up here, never had a tire that has such a predictable and fun skid limit, you feel like an in control hooligan.
The House still has those Mavics. It'll be a few months before I can tell you if they're any good.Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
I looked though their Mavic stock when the sale came up, but nothing wide enough. Too bad, they're cheap!Quote:
Originally Posted by bagtagley
Right on! Yeah, HT is a threaded bb.Quote:
Originally Posted by volklpowdermaniac
I got in touch with the former lbs owner yesterday and he's working at another shop that's, unfortunately, kind of far away, but I'm going to hook it up with him for the stuff that's over my head.
Since we've been talking tire pressures lately, I discovered SRAM/Zipp came out with a Tire Pressure Calculator algorithm recently. Anybody play around with it? I'm going to use it and experiment more with road tires, i.e I recently threw on Conti GP5000 32s starting at about r/f 80/70 and then yesterday went 65/60 as per the calculator. Really like the feel of going to the 32s (just a more damped feel and way grippy, duh, and no drama with road cracks).
Anybody else experiment with the calculator? MTB numbers seem to be spot on but they're much easier to figure out, road not so much.
SRAM Tire Pressure Guide
I find the road numbers pretty close, and the MTB numbers way too high.
I've been using the TireWiz app for a few years, which was transferred to SRAM app.
Do the MTB calculations take into account chunk/pointy rocks as a factor?
Really? I quickly plugged a few numbers in at ~190 lbs, typical Enduro setup, its putting me low 20s (i.e 'Dry' at 25/23, 'Wet' at 23/21).Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
No, only if you're XC, Trail, or Enduro As Fuck.Quote:
Originally Posted by rideit
That must be DH casings?Quote:
Originally Posted by robnow
I found the "Trail" calcs to be about right for the rear (30psi) but awfully high for the front (29psi) - I generally run the front around 23psi as it's a beefy casing (not DH, though).
EAF FO LIFE, BITCHESQuote:
Originally Posted by robnow
The sram calculator got me about right with DH tires. It was a good bit low with "standard" tires.
So am I running too soft?
192 lbs
MTB Trail/Enduro
28lbs bike (150mm/150mm travel)
2.4/2.3 Tires (Maxxis DHF/HighRoller2 3C TR EXO 900g tires 2oz of Stans Tubeless)
27mm internal Carbon Hoooked rims.
Dry hardpacked Colorado trails, mostly buff, no rocks to strike.
SRAM Calculator says = 29/33
I normally run 21/24. No burps, no strikes, and if I'm really pushing it I feel the odd rear tire squirm, If I'm going for a fast lap and pushing hard with the boys I'll cheat the rear tire a few more PSI.
Says I am running too soft as well..... (that's what she said)
I normally run 17/19 everyday riding and might go up to 19/21 if racing in super chunk/bike park.
150lbs (total guess haven't been on a scale in years and in better shape than I ever have been)
30lb sled
2.4/2.4 Wild Enduro (these tires fuck)
35mm internal carbon pretty sure hookless
Hard trails
Sram says 22.8/24.2
So pretty damn close and maybe I should try their numbers anyway.
Feels a little soft (that's what she said). I'd be worried about destroying rims but it depends on your terrain. By hard, do you mean rocky? If so I'd go firmer. Another option/precaution would be a Huck Norris if you want to keep lower pressure.Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
If you’re looking for something on the cheap, I got a $300 wheelset built up with SRAM 900 hubs from VeloMine last year. 29” Boost, 35mm IW. I’m digging these hubs. Rims were by Fratelli, feel decent for an aluminum 35mm IW, and the build seemed good but I had a shop double check tension on everything after I got tires and short shakedown rides.Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
anyone installed a PNW Puget 1x dropper post lever lately? The lever I got is quite a bit different from what's in their instructional video. I can take some pics but just curious if anyone has done it recently. The post and lever install to the bike fine and the cable goes to the post just fine, but how the cable is intended to attach to the lever is somewhat unclear (the end it goes in is obvious, but there are 2 small pieces that don't appear to attach to the lever anywhere, and I'm not sure what is intended as the anchoring mechanism from the cable to the lever)
Thanks, I'll check out their site.Quote:
Originally Posted by SchralphMacchio
Cheap is good.
Was going to try Magura MT7s but stock is severely limited right now so going Shimano. Anybody see a good thread mixing XTR xc levers with trail calipers, 9100/9120 mix? I know the Germans like to mix the xc lever with Saints but curious on more info.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
which lever?Quote:
Originally Posted by mall walker
the "puget 1x" is what I ordered and apparently received. just looks nothing like the one in their instructional videoQuote:
Originally Posted by grskier
e: nvm, works like the loam. sweet
Why?Quote:
Originally Posted by robnow
Other than to be more German-ish.
The only thing 9100(XC) levers offer is carbon blades which WILL break in a fall. That's why Shimano (finally/thankfully) stopped putting them in the trail versions.
If you must have carbon you can always buy the blade itself in Shimano small parts and install it in the 9120 MC.
I rode in Italy with an Austrian guy who told me a long story of his experimenting with Sram lever swaps. In the typical Me/Shimano guy fashion, I was all, “Shoulda just gone with Saints, brah”
Austrians (ie Germans) don’t understand humor as a form of communication.
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Doesn't the Race lever still not have servo wave? That's an actual functional difference. You'll lose some power going to those but get a shorter stroke and more consistent lever feel.
I've seen it theorized that the servo wave mechanism ends up side loading the MC piston a bit and causes accelerated wear, which contributes to the Shimano bite point randomizer feature, but I haven't experimented with nearly enough pairs to know how true that is.