Anyone else get some today...?

OB looks way better on instagram. Saturday was pretty damn fun. As was Sunday. My step up took a beating yesterday, and she is drying out now. I guess the only good part of that is I can easily fix this one. Man is that board done. Need to start saving more cash and perhaps let my ski quiver suffer a few years.

More out there today. The Point at the Lane is about as good as it gets. Way OH on the better sets with just enough NW combo to make for some bombs. Not all that crowded by any means either. I look through my shots and try to get something posted. Hoping the winds hold off this afternoon, but not expecting such luck. Clean out there this morning.

This was my weekend - a nice welcome back to CA. Top board was Saturday on my first day out since July, and my first day out at my home break in almost a year. Bottom board was Sunday on the first wave of the day, and the first wave on this new-to-me backup board. The gash in my shin from where I pushed the fin in is slightly smaller than the crushed fin box. I guess you shouldn't use center fins for side fins but it was all I had. Both boards are obviously old but it still sucks!

http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/...e/IMG_3602.jpg

Thanks for the invite Saturday to Blacks piggity. Ended up hanging around with the GF, with minimum surfing. Is Black's at 5ish feet 9' board friendly? I'd imagine the waves are getting quite steep at that point (and above)?

Sunday morning went to Terramar for about an hour. Long lulls, big sets every now and again, but closing out early. Went back early as the low tide hit for another couple hours, and it was a different story. Bigger sets were overhead, but still closing out too early for my liking, so stuck to the smaller stuff (still about waist-chest). Nice long, clean lefts. Got dropped in on on a good right I caught.

Love sessions that waves are so frequent and quality that counting them leaves the mind.

Probably can't get out until Wednesday at this point - hope the swell sticks around.

Long duc - I should be in Newport Saturday, around 33rd St. If I can rally the gf early enough I'm going to bring my board. Are the beaches still black balled at this point, or is summer "over"?

Oh yea, and to add to my jongyness - what's the desired thing to do in this situation:

Catch a set wave, it closes out on you. Is it best to bail at that point and paddle back through the impact zone while staying out of other's way, or do you generally ride the whitewater in further and paddle back around and out (as you would from the beach)?

Had some fun today.
http://imageshack.us/a/img703/9494/dsc05120lv.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img213/9839/dsc04971v.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img121/7100/dsc05085fw.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img850/2107/dsc05062d.jpg

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Originally Posted by jtran10

Oh yea, and to add to my jongyness - what's the desired thing to do in this situation:

Catch a set wave, it closes out on you. Is it best to bail at that point and paddle back through the impact zone while staying out of other's way, or do you generally ride the whitewater in further and paddle back around and out (as you would from the beach)?

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Dude, I am just as big a jong as you so don’t take my word for it, but I NEVER ride toward the beach unless I am headed in. As soon as I am done surfing the wave I head straight out A.S.A.P, but I surf jong beach breaks and points in SoCal so...

That sucks hop. The top one looks like it is done, but the bottom one should be a pretty easy fix. I have free fcs plugs in sc if you want them. Pull out old plu, router out bad foam, fill with Q-cell/Cavacell mix, place plug in right spot, glass over top. I'm guessing it is a $30 job. Nothing worse than paddling out and break board or self before even getting a wave. It has happened to me more than once, so I know.

jtran10, I'd say it depends on where you are surfing. Most times, is smaller, weaker surf, it is best to just kick your board up and get under the wash, then paddle back straight out. This works well, unless you are at a wave that you can not easily paddle through. Some spots, if you lose the wave, and are behind it, it is still better to get down the line and out into the channel. I surf a ledge reef that can be like this. Too much turbulence, current and ass kicking beatery happening in the impact zone. Much better to get as far down the line as possible before heading back out during a set.

Anyway, swell still holding strong this evening. Smaller than yesterday, and more people on it oddly enough. Still some fun ones. Mostly head high ish, with some plus sets.

O rivermouth was a pleasant surprise this am. just 3 of us out for 2 hours surrounding low tide with off shores at about 8mph. waist+ clean with plenty of mini juice.

missed a short window yesterday afternoon as i just wasn't paying attention. ah well........

rog

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jtran10

Probably can't get out until Wednesday at this point - hope the swell sticks around.

Long duc - I should be in Newport Saturday, around 33rd St. If I can rally the gf early enough I'm going to bring my board. Are the beaches still black balled at this point, or is summer "over"?

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Summer is over at this point in Newport, so the only blackball zone is 40-44, I believe. The 20's and 30's will not be blackballed. Hopefully the swell will stick around.

Surfline is calling it 4-6 for south county on Thursday. I probably can't get out until Friday, but hopefully this insane run will continue.

If it is still 4-6 on Saturday Newport might be a bit steep for a bigger board. I would check the lower streets, which is where you will be, if the 52 and higher streets are too big. Honestly, I would not want to surf a 9 footer in the super crowded sections anyway, not when it is head high. You have to be pretty adept to maneuver one.

Monday morning Middles. Nothing big, but it was breaking.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tODzp8j5ON.../4+Mile100.JPG



Tuesday evening, just a bit up the coast.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YO3ymDAm_j.../4+Mile108.JPG



October 1st. 8:30 AM. 82F. No wind. SSW/NW Combo. It was very good out there. Could have gotten some killer shots if I was not attending to my sons bleeding scalp.
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5CIBQF9Cj_...121001_849.JPG

plenty more and words at: WaveStoke

I like the last photo, looks fun.

Skipped it today, was socked in fog at the beach until about 1:30pm. Yesterday was fun waist to shoulder high beach break fun, caught a ton of waves with only 1 other guy out

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Originally Posted by Piggity

I like the last photo, looks fun.

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ditto, veddy nice!

not much goin on here nh. lots of sessions in sept, at least one for all 30 dayz. nice to take a rest and recharge.

Took a smaller 7'ish board out tonight that I'm borrowing at Tamarack. First real session on it. Super fun and fast. Good thing I've been out a lot recently, exponentially harder to paddle.

Sets were shoulder highish, but picked off some great waist high shoulders siting further inside.

The board's a bit too buoyant for me to duck dive (it's my 250?ish lb cousin's) but has me seriously thinking about getting a short/fun board that's actually the right size.

Would purchasing a fun board even be worth it, or would I just find myself wanting a shortboard in a couple months. Probably can answer that question myself.

Now a days there are so many shapes that you don't have to choose either or. Usually u can find something that combines the best of both worlds. Instead choosing either a fish or a shortboard, I can get a hybrid. An example relevant to your choice could be something like a Walden Compact disc or something similar, where it has the float of a funboard but length of a shorter board. Some people don't like Waldens and I havent ridden one, so this is more of an example than suggestion

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Originally Posted by jtran10

right size.

Would purchasing a fun board even be worth it, or would I just find myself wanting a shortboard in a couple months. Probably can answer that question myself.

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If you are like me, you will always want one in your quiver. They are great for when the waves are small/lumpy/disorganized/weak or wonky. They are also great to loan out to a friend who is learning. I ride mine more often than I really want, but it gets me in the water when things are not quite working well enough to get waves on the short board. I also like to take it out when I have just an hour to surf, want exercise and surf is not ideal. I get way more (like 10x) waves and keep moving the entire time.

I don't think I would go out and get one shaped or buy new (in fact, the two I have had in my life were gifted to me), but look around CL. If you use it for a few months while learning, and then only use it occasionally, it will last for years.

I also think they are great for learning due to the greater paddling power. It is not at all about the actual catching of the wave. Sure they help a bit with that. But rather, the easier paddling allows you to chase down peaks and get into position more efficiently, and allows you to focus on the pop and drop. You will also gain a sense of how being 1' foot either closer or further from the peak can make a huge difference. Hint, you want to be right on that peak.

Oh, and don't get rid of the long board either.

As for the surf, things were still kicking around here on Tuesday. My son and I paddled out around Capitola, and up and down the point waves were peeling. I had no idea the souths could get so far in there. Even Bombora was breaking (although it did not seem to be bowling and peeling). Wednesday morning was good at the Lane, then fog and south winds moved in and the swell dwindled. Looks like a small south bump today and some more small long period north for late in the weekend. And the charts suggest something big again for late next week.

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Originally Posted by jtran10

Would purchasing a fun board even be worth it, or would I just find myself wanting a shortboard in a couple months. Probably can answer that question myself.

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I'll echo what some have said, and say yes, it could be worth it.

I would look for something used. This is a board that will always be good when it's small. A 7 foot funboard, rounded nose and super thick, will get you in the water when it's a bit small. I had one in college, in Santa Barbara, and it was absolutely priceless in terms of getting me out in thigh high days.

This board will be a good transition board. I would caution against a true shortboard at this point. You want to make surfing as slow as possible, that will allow you to pop and angle properly and help you smooth out the body movements. If you get a board in the 7 foot range I think you will want to keep it forever, and it will help you quite a bit in the learning process. Don't go too small too fast. I did at one point, and it stunted my surfing. I found I had to get something bigger to progress again. It will be a long time before actual on wave performance means all that much in a board, it takes lots of learning the basics.

It looks like once again OC will deliver this weekend.

Here is a link to some SPAC energy pointed at California:

http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/be...ifornia_77014/

And just like that it sounds like my cousin needs his board back this weekend. Thanks for the tips as always guys. I realized last night if I posted like this in ski/snowboard I'd get eaten alive.

Gonna head to the shops with used boards around here and look for something in the 7' range (I'm 5'8 150 for reference). Definitely have no plans of getting rid of the longboard. Should be even more fun next summer than it was this one.

I really did see a huge performance difference last night with low tide Tamarack (generally steeper, shorter waves than Terramar, which is a huge LB spot, even with bigger swell) on the shorter board vs. the 9'.

long duc, I'll be in Newport for certain Saturday afternoon/maybe Sunday morning session, right at 33rd street. PM me if you want to hook up with my cousin and I.

Brand new for $360 with fins....the board looks fun to me

http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/spo/3315852500.html

^^^that looks like just the ticket. Similar to the one I have now, but I am sure much lighter. Mine is now a tank. But that would get you into sub knee high peelers as well as paddle into overhead junk.

My previous on was called a Fun Gun by the shaper. A 3" thick 7'6". Maybe as wide as 22", but it had a rounded pulled pin tail, and it rode really well in bigger surf (as in DOH+), but also worked in tiny stuff.

Anyway, when shopping, if you can, bring someone along who knows about boards. Talk with the shop rats to learn. Hard edges grip more and turn harder, soft edges are slippery and forgiving. Too much foam in the nose and boards get hung up. Wide tails paddle/ catch wave easier but do not hold an edge as well. So on and so forth. Any name brand board will be decently shaped/ built. Off name, feel the shape, rails and foil of the board. It should be smooth and regular. It is hard to really fuck up a shape, but it does happen. Glass job should be clear, solid feeling and have no visible seams.

Also look for condition. New should be new. Absolutely no pressure dings or spider webs. Used board to avoid include ones that have a delaminated deck or soft deck. Board should be water tight, unless you plan to do fiber glass work (learn how - lots of dings are easy). Look along the rails, nose, tail and fin boxes. If you buy a board that is falling apart, it won't last long. Sometimes you can find a board that will likely last a year and cost $100. That might be a worth while purchase as well. Depends on how you think about it. But if you are paying $250 or more, you should be getting a board in serviceable condition - meaning ready to ride, and not about to explode into a million pieces. $360 new with fins sounds pretty good if it is a solid board.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jtran10

I realized last night if I posted like this in ski/snowboard I'd get eaten alive.

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ya, cuz the butthurt skiers have no fucking idea how inferior skiing is to surfing:biggrin:

keep it here!

rog

I'm actually on my second board already. Broke my first $100 CL board within the first 2 months. It showed me that I was ready to drop money on a good board, so I'm glad I got it.

That board looks nice Piggity, but seems very similarly shaped to my 9' (which is really more of a hybrid longboard than a log, I'd have to check actual dims on it when I get home. 9' x XXX x 3" I know for sure)

The 7 whatever board I've also got right now is much more of a shortboard shape I think, just seemed more float; fairly rockered, pointed nose, tri fin, flat back.

I haven't really had my hands on enough boards yet to be able to gauge the feel of the rails

Want to try not to overlap the quiver too much. I'll report back with the actual dims of my 9' later.

Looks like the LB is 9x22 1/2 or 1/2 (can't tell) by 3

No dims on shorter board

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Honestly if you are going to surf, acquire boards and surf them.

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Thats my philosophy. I think my garage has about 15 boards and 1 more being shaped, none of them ride the same and 80% of them are within 6" of length.

and i only ride/own one..........less confusion/clutter that way:)

same as with skis.

rog

^I do not subscribe to that philosophy. That's like being a golfer with 1 club in your bag. Granted only 3-4 boards are actively in my rotation, but there is never confusion of which board to ride when it's 2ft mush or DOH south pacific freight trains detonating on dry reef. My choice of boards are clearly defined in those 2 situations

heh, well maybe if i was surfing doh south pacific freight trains detonating on dry reef, i'd pick up a second board:)

but......i'm not.

it is fun for me to make my 5'8 go in so many different shapes/sizes/power. i do switch from thruster to quad and back depending if o-head or not. adaptation. really learns ya to dial a board in, intimately.

rog