What frame?
A standard 1.5 headtube is 49mm SHIS. So you'd want a 49mm EC lower cup, 49mm ZS upper.
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What frame?
A standard 1.5 headtube is 49mm SHIS. So you'd want a 49mm EC lower cup, 49mm ZS upper.
Fitting the tapered steerer will be no problem, it's a full 1.5" head tube (like GG used to use on their alloy frames). This is the frame, though their website is a bit light on nitty gritty specs like this: https://www.flowkidsbikes.com/produc...-complete-bike
I had assumed all 1.5" head tubes had the same ID/OD dimensions, is that not the case?
49mm is the standard nominal ID for a 1.5 straight headtube. There are a couple other sizes that normally get used for tapered headtubes, it does look like that's a straight 49mm. You'll need an external bearing lower cup for a tapered steerer in that, upper can obviously stay internal.
OK, so assuming it's 49 mm ID upper/lower, what headset do I need? Nothing fancy, just a basic FSA or whatever.
Cane Creek has the best info to figure out headsets:
http://canecreek.com/wp-content/uplo...his-poster.pdf
Every single part of this conversation is cracking me up. Guys killing to be king of their little world. Meanwhile, there are so many folks in the wider world who will just destroy them.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
I can understand good natured fighting within your riding crew or community but the fire these dudes have for their fake electronic records are always funny as shit to me. Reminds me of the guys busted for doping in Cat 2 races.
Priorities.
If someone devoted as much time and effort as these guys do to biking to being the best softball player in town that person would be committed to an asylum. Why is it ok for biking or triathlon?
Don’t get me wrong, I’m asking as a guy who literally has 20 bikes in his garage, plus another 2 or 3 in parts. I mean, I’m into cycling too, but there’s a limit...
To be fair, around here, the guys consistently getting top ten Strava times on everything are crushing everyone in meatspace, too.
Question regarding bike painting- I recently picked up a sweet used singlespeed with a custom steel fork - thing is, the fork is red/fading pink. While I have no issue rocking the pink fork, I’d like to eventually paint it black. Is it as simple as getting a rattle can of black paint and having at ‘er or should I wet paint? Do I need to sand it down first, apply primer?
Any advice on DIY painting of a fork? (Bear in mind I may be one of the least handy guys on this thread).
Cheers,
Coach
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I don't get it either. I don't really race much anymore, but when I did, it was only nominally to see how I'd actually do compared to others in my class. I knew where I stacked up, and I more or less knew where I'd place at any given race.Quote:
Originally Posted by EWG
But it was always fun to see how much the legit fast guys would beat me by. Seeing how I compared to some national level pro meant I could extrapolate that and figure out how I'd compare to world cup guys (answer: I would lose. By a lot.)
Being proud that you're "local fast" is one thing. Thinking it actually means something is pretty fucking dumb though.
Kinda depends how good you want it to look. Rattle can is fine if your standards are low.Quote:
Originally Posted by coach
That story about the guy being banned from bike shops and deleting a trail once he isn’t the leader is fucking amazing.... what a tool. How painful would it be to live life like that?? Honestly I think those people are just tortured souls as every moment must be some type of pain #existenceispain
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Daddy/mommy issues
This stuff is pretty awesome: https://spraybike.us/Quote:
Originally Posted by coach
Their marketing department is run by hipster squids, but the product is legit.
I vaguely recall a story in the local paper years ago when we still lived in CO. Some lady, a non-racer weekend roadie started just crushing local commute segments. A couple curious folks discovered it was due to her blowing someone in the parking lot at the Amgen facility to get herself some EPO.
Ya think she might need some herb?
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Wait, wut? Can she keep a secret?
So, for a "standard" straight 1.5" HT and a "standard" tapered steerer I need a ZS49/28.6 upper and a EC49/40 lower? Does a ZS49/40 lower exist?Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
Yep. And no, ZS49/40 isn't a thing. Not enough room for the bearing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dantheman
Cool, thanks.
Back to removing the current headset--buy the Park RT-2 or just DIY one?
Cutting slots in a conduit works, although not nearly as well as a real remover since the conduit metal isn't very springy, so it doesn't do a good job of expanding once in the head tube. But if this is the only headset you foresee removing anytime soon, it's fine. I've also removed them just with a punch and going slowly so as to avoid rocking the cup in the frame. That method is more likely to damage the cup being removed though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dantheman
Or bring the frame with fork removed to a shop. It's a 15 second process to knock the cup out with the rt-2. They might not even charge you.
I just use a piece of aluminum rod, I think 3/4" diameter, and work my way around with that and a hammer. Works just fine as long as you take a little care to keep the cup straight-ish and not let it get cocked too far. It's not rocket surgery. I've used the real Park tool plenty back when I was working in a shop, it's a little more idiot proof but you really don't need one.
Cool, I'll give that a shot. I don't see needing to remove another headset any time soon, and if I do it will be because it's wrecked anyway. I also don't anticipate ever needing this headset again.
I considered toast's LBS suggestion, but word on the street is that shops are swamped and way backed up with service orders so I'm disinclined to walk in looking for an on-the-spot favor.
FWIW, there's probably someone on pinkbike who'd be psyched to get a cheap reach adjust headset for their older DH bike with a dual crown and straight steerer, if you feel like trying to get some beer money out of it.
I've done it with a hammer and a large flathead (a flat punch would be better but I didn't have one). Main thing is to go back and forth on opposite sides so the cup stays straight in the tube.
Recouping some money would definitely be nice. I figured this was going to cost me $30-40, but it looks like it's actually going to be $80-90.Quote:
Originally Posted by HAB
I've removed a couple headsets with an old handlebar or a wooden block and have reused them. As mentioned, just take it slow and easy.
Hey, I’ll be in SLC tomorrow afternoon. If you want I could bring the Park tool.
Crankarm length. Anyone playing with that? I have 175mm cranks and between pedal strikes and the fact that my seatpost is slammed as low as it will go and the seat is still probably 1-2 mm too high I'm considering going down to 170mm. What's that going to feel like pedaling? Absolutely no difference? Complete knee explosion? Am I even going to notice a 5mm difference?
I feel like I finally got a pretty decent stroke on the bike but it took a lot of effort to get there and changing anything in the system might throw off that delicate balance...
I notice the difference, and prefer 175. Bothers some more than others, you'll just have to try it and see.
I appreciate the offer, but I need to get the new headset first.Quote:
Originally Posted by rideit
Any thoughts on this Brand X headset: https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/.../rp-prod130957
I've had great luck with Brand X droppers. Even if I pay for rush shipping it's still half the cost of a Cane Creek 40. It's going on 60 lb kid's DJ, so the abuse factor is low. The specs list the lower cup as EC49/39.8, but that 0.2 mm can't matter, right?
I notice the difference and prefer 170's. The slightly smaller circle just feels a little more normal to me, but mostly I like having more pedal clearance.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
I've experimented with 165, 170, 175, and 180. I ran 165's on my DH bike for years, but they kinda suck for real pedaling. 180's feel long, with a goofy big pedaling circle. Good for singlespeed mashing though.
But this, like any fit / bio-mechanical issue, is largely going to be personal preference.
I was in the same boat with the slammed dropper a bit too high.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
Fixed with low stack saddle (Silverado) and thin ski boot insoles without arch under shoe insole.
I'd go for the Brand X, but I've never really had issues with any sealed bearing headsets I've owned.
Same here. I'd give it a try.Quote:
Originally Posted by bagtagley
I almost bought a Brand X one a few weeks ago, then found what I needed from FSA on Amazon for a few $ more. Perhaps worth a search there too.
Already running a Silverado and a 2nd thin insole (good thing the Shimano shoes are super high volume). Changing the length of the crank arms seems like the last alternative before going to a shorter dropper which would be super annoying...Quote:
Originally Posted by Meconium
I'm going to get rid of the bike by the end of the season and can probably live with it for another 1000 miles or so but the new ride I'm looking at comes with no-cost options for varying crank-arm lengths. Guess I'll have to try and test-ride 2 different versions and see if I even notice a difference. If not I'll happily go with shorter arms and a bit more clearance.
I'm 6' tall with a 32" inseam, and 170s are my preferred length for a bike that I'm going to actually pedal on, mostly because the slightly smaller circle feels more natural. YMMV.
Brand X incoming. I actually had emailed FSA's customer service because their site kinda blows and doesn't list SHIS norms for a lot of their headsets. Their rep said my only option was to buy this complete headset (https://www.fsaproshop.com/FSA_PRODU...bit-Headset_24) but only use the upper cup, and then buy this (https://www.fsaproshop.com/FSA_PRODU...A-DX-Headset_4) lower cup separately, which puts the total price into borderline CK/CC110 territory. Yeah, no.Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
I've been looking at whether I can reduce the height on Mrs C's dropper by about 5-10mm, as her post is fully in the frame (to the collar of the dropper post) and the saddle is still a touch high. Already went to a lower profile saddle.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
The OneUp dropper shim supposedly works on other brands' posts too, so long as they are similar - her post is a Brand X Ascend II external, which I believe is identical to the PNW Cascade. I'm going to order that shim and see if I can make it work. The shim comes premarked so you can trim it to reduce the drop from a max of 50mm, down to whatever you want.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
You can also cut a few millimeters off of your frame on the seat mast:Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
Attachment 334268
I noticed a lot less pedal strikes when I went to 170Quote:
Originally Posted by Boissal