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I agree. That said, what parts actually attach to carbon on a bike?Quote:
Originally Posted by adrenalated
Stem (if carbon bars)
Brake/shifter clamp (also if carbon bars)
Seatpost clamp (sortof - it actually tightens on an aluminum seatpost. It just needs to be torqued due to the dropper movement)
All take a 5-6 Nm torque.
That's pretty much all I can think of. Carbon cranks have aluminum spindle and pedal interfaces.
Probably a bit more carbon on road bikes.
I’ve also found that some suspension linkage can be pretty sensitive to appropriate torque settings.
Stem: these vary. My I-9 stem says 5-7 nM torque, and I actually snapped one of their bolts the first time I installed it and torqued to 7nM. However, my OneUp stem says 7-9 nM. I guess alu vs. steel bolts? That snapped bolt happened using a Park torque wrench - after that I bought one of the CDI 2-8s, and a CDI 4-28.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roxtar
Brakes/Shifters are usually spec'd 3-4. Grips are like 2-3.
Seatpost clamp varies depending on dropper (I've seen anywhere from 5-8).
On one of my first few bikes, before I got torque wrenches, I killed a set of bearings when I stripped everything, cleaned off the interfaces, then tightened up everything up to "snug." Pivot bolts seem to vary quite a bit, from like 10-25. I find using a torque wrench on high torque spots like bottom brackets/crank bolts/cassettes to be really useful so that they don't get too many ugga-duggas, and I'm able to remove them with a reasonable amount of effort the next time.
General rule of thumb for me. If it takes either a 4mm or 5mm hex, never exceed 6Nm.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andeh
Awesome. Thanks for the quick feedback all.
Those of you using Wera hex plus wrenches, are you happy with them? Any downsides compared to the traditional hex heads found on Wiha and PB Swiss?
What about slipping of the plastic covering on the hex plus?
Yes, happy with them. Only downside I've found using them was on one particular crappy bolt head that was already a bit worn, I couldn't fit the H+ in and had to use a somewhat worn Park hex. I haven't experienced the plastic sleeve moving at all. The Hex+ is nice also for fitting bolts onto the end of the wrench and carrying/fitting them (like, say if you're putting fresh Loctite on rotor bolts), because they kinda grip the bolt.Quote:
Originally Posted by g_man80
Great feedback. Thanks. Any issues with caliper clearance when tightening caliper bolts due to the thicker plastic sleeve? The Code caliper back bolt is spaced very tightly. I don’t have those brakes but work on them routinely.
Back when i ran a lefty the strut absolutley needed to be torked to 15 lbs and somebody didnt do it either at the factory or the shop, cuz it loosened off twice before i found a Tork wrench
I have a smaller snap-on tork wrench but I don't use it much cuz 30 yrs of "strip it and you come back to fix it" has me all trained up
Hmm, it's been a while since I had Codes. I think that the rear bolt there was so tight that I either had to run the allen at a slight angle in the long direction (using the ball end), or the short end.Quote:
Originally Posted by g_man80
Ok. Thanks. I have a 5mm that I smoothed and thinned with a grinder just for Codes because I hate scratching up new components. I’ll continue to use that. Now to decide between Wera, Wiha, PB, bondus. I’ll just stare at them all in my cart for another 18 months.
Shock and axle bolts definitely need the right torque for the suspension to work properly. Got a shock bolt a tad tight and the bike staid way too high in its travel.Quote:
Originally Posted by g_man80
I also use a torque wrench for bottom bracken and crank bolt. That stuff is metal threads glued(?) into the carbon on my bike. Also sets the bearing preload properly, I think.
Also, people pay attention: a PNW Loam lever bar clamp, and presumably any other very narrow bar clamp, is listed as only 3nm. It's printed on it.
Wera hexes. it's the right answer for L wrenches. Don't think, Meat, you'll only hurt the ball club.Quote:
Originally Posted by g_man80
Then I like to have non-plus ones on hand just in case (cheap set of $14 Bondhus) and I use non plus for my P handles. But get the Wera Plus if you will only have one set.
This.Quote:
Originally Posted by EWG
Tho if I ever have enough money and space for a proper bike workshop, I think I’ll invest in a set of t-shape hex’s, those seem cool
Order. Try. Return rejects.Quote:
Originally Posted by g_man80
That’s what I did with the Wera’s. I didn’t like the loose feel of the Hex Plus. Much prefer the tight tolerances of my Bondhus and Whia when working with bikes. I also didn’t like the clunky feel of the plastic sleeves. That’s just my style though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lvovsky
I’ve got an SAE set of Wera Hex Plus that’s great for random plumbing and IKEA style stuff around the house.
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Wera Hex-Plus are the best hex tools available, IMO. I prefer them to everything else I've used, be it PB Swiss, Snap On, Bondhus, etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by g_man80
There are numerous different Hex-Plus L keys available - I wouldn't buy the plastic covered ones for shop use as the sleeves seem to loosen after a year or two. For home use, you're unlikely to ever have an issue though.
Wera also makes some larger, T handle hex wrenches that are worth checking out if you wanted leverage. I also have their 1/4" bit driver and bits in a couple different lengths which are excellent as well.
yeah that plastic coating on the l-keys will definitely come off after awhile.
the park t-handles are pretty good, but pricey
https://www.parktool.com/en-us/produ...ench-set-thh-1
I also never have bothered or needed to use the black "twisted" end, and it can be a little annoying when you're trying to get good leverage on something and the handle slides over.
Also a fan of a longer hex bit and mini ratchet. And then just regular hex sockets and ratchet wrenches sometimes for bigger things like 6-10mm.
Looking to buy shop quality torque wrench(s) for my wife for Christmas - trust me she will love it. She is in her wood shop building the workbench for the bike maintenance room - she puts me to shame.
When we both took a bike mechanic course we used long torque wrenches that were digital. I’m thinking that to capture the range needed I may need to buy two.
Anything else I should be ensuring I look for? Or do I just buy the two park tool (not digital) ones?
Any advice appreciated
PB Swiss BF sale soonQuote:
Originally Posted by g_man80
I've definitely used the black end on those for a suspect bolt head with success, not that it's crucial but it is cool. Those are my favorite T-handles, I use the little sleeve for spinning all the time. Two seasons of shop use and they're still going strong, although I did have a 2.5mm tip break off at one point, in which they were quick to send out a new one under warranty.Quote:
Originally Posted by jamal
I saw Silca just started selling their T Handle set (with included "folio" which is a stellar case for them and other small tools), may give those a shot as a buddy of mine loves his set. I'm a big fan of the T-Ratchet/Torque set for things like headset/stem bolts.
Used one of those cheapie spoke tension meters last night to rebuild a wheel. Is it calibrated correct? Who knows, but pretty consistent and reproducible.
Good enough for the couple of wheels I will build a year.
What's the best semi-affordable truing stands out there? I have a Minoura folding one that's ok. but it doesn't support thru-axles that well. I miss the old TS-2
Those Abbey ones look nice for $1450
I’m remembering a super fun thread from a couple years ago where someone kept on about how he was an ASE Certified mechanic and we needed to know how important it is to use premium torque when wrenchin bikes.Quote:
Originally Posted by bennymac
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Kinda depends on what your uses are... Road bikes, fs MTB?Quote:
Originally Posted by bennymac
A full size (i.e. looks like a long handle socket wrench) ratcheting unit is annoying as shit for the vast majority of bike torque jobs, since those are mostly on cockpit parts and are relatively low torque. I'd get either one of those adjustable T-handles or a set of 4nm, 5nm, and 6nm dedicated ones, for that set of jobs. Eg: https://www.parktool.com/en-us/produ...driver-atd-1-2
Agree that something that can reach 10-15nm is useful for MTB pivots, but if this is a 2x a year kind of job the flex-beam type wrenches are soooo much more convenient. You don't have to wind them up, they won't go out of calibration bc you forgot to wind them back down for storage, and there's never a doubt if they are in calibration. Something like this, they make a higher-scale version of it too if you feel like you need to torque bbs and cranks (I don't, just go by feel imo). https://www.parktool.com/en-us/produ...0-14-nm-tw-1-2
The weras are pretty nice, we use those mostly at the shop. The "bicycle torque set 1" comes with a low range 1/4" drive wrench and then hex and torx bits and a couple of sockets. Might get one of these to upgrade my current wrench/sockets.Quote:
Originally Posted by bennymac
Then you'd want a larger 3/8 drive, ideally that will torque things in the reverse direction (for like bb cups, derailleur hangers), and go up to 50-60nm (a dub crank bolt calls for 54).
Also note that a tq wrench with a reversible ratchet head isn't the same as a wrench that will actually work in the reverse direction. The mechanism in most actually only works in one direction so to go the other way they'll have a head where the drive lug pushes through to the other side or something.
like this one
https://sonictoolsusa.com/products/d...?sku=730220100
I have a small tekton 1/4 drive wrench that's pretty ok and then a beam type 3/8 drive where I can unbolt and fiip the head around. I do really want a couple of snap on digital wrenches but unless i actually start working on cars again and building engines and stuff, i can't really justify that since they're like $700.