Fritschi Vipec review thread

Breaking? Fear not - the procedure is super duper easy, so I would not be overly worried, nor would I disassemble the pin.

Just work in 180 degree rotations (to align the the tech pin movement to the retaining pin insertion slot) untill you are satisfied, and then remember to both re-tighten the nut (while using a screwdriver or the retaining pin to make sure that the tech pin does not rotate and add a bit of thread lock for nut retention if you have some at hand) and to re-insert the locking retaining pin.

The thread lock is there to prevent the nut from unscrewing, not to lock the insertion depth - that is the job of the retaining pin.

If you haven't seen it, then Lou wrote a piece on it way back too:
https://www.wildsnow.com/12293/frits...ay-durability/

There's a shit to of comments below the article, but do not overthink this - the precedure is super duper easy. :)

Anyone know if the Vipec crampons are the same as the Xenic crampons?

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Originally Posted by margotron

Anyone know if the Vipec crampons are the same as the Xenic crampons?

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Pretty sure xenic is dynafit style so I think not.

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Originally Posted by fleaches

Pretty sure xenic is dynafit style so I think not.

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Correct

Updating from my earlier posts. I did go the demo plate route and they did install with the existing holes. All went well and I was also able to adjust the mount point back a little. They do raise the stack height about a quarter inch. Overall, I am happy with this approach. Thanks for your help.

Attachment 355394

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Originally Posted by chickenmonkey

Updating from my earlier posts. I did go the demo plate route and they did install with the existing holes. All went well and I was also able to adjust the mount point back a little. They do raise the stack height about a quarter inch. Overall, I am happy with this approach. Thanks for your help.

Attachment 355394

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Great, glad you got a set of the demo plates.

They are very versatile (nice that they use basic binding mount pattern). Not many people know about them it seems so good to get the word out.

It's there a reason NOT to fill the heel with grease to prevent freezing. Grease can damage some plastics, but I doubt this is the case here. Happens very rarely on the spring, but it looks like the BC coast has eternal spring.

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Hello,

Does anyone have measurements on the height of the different size toe bumpers on black edition vipecs? I keep kicking my bindings into ski mode while skinning and I hope ordering slimmer bumpers will fix this, but I am unsure what I already have. Mine measure 13mm (from white plastic lever to top of bumper) at their tallest point. Boots are maestrale RS, and don't have a very prominent toe box.

Thanks

anyone have a mount template? took these to a shop in SLC to get them remounted, bonehead wouldn't do it because it required moving the mount point 1cm back from recommended. I live in Moab and there's no ski shops here. I used to be a tech and am just going to do it myself, but i'd prefer to at least have a printed template.

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Originally Posted by blackalps

anyone have a mount template? took these to a shop in SLC to get them remounted, bonehead wouldn't do it because it required moving the mount point 1cm back from recommended. I live in Moab and there's no ski shops here. I used to be a tech and am just going to do it myself, but i'd prefer to at least have a printed template.

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I normally use these ones: https://www.slidewright.com/powdergu...ing-templates/

Listed as "Diamir_vipec" in the google drive

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Originally Posted by fleaches

I normally use these ones: https://www.slidewright.com/powdergu...ing-templates/

Listed as "Diamir_vipec" in the google drive

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Agree....this template worked for me.

Am I the only one that thinks the evo toes are an overall downgrade from the original toes?

1. The OG toes are simpler with less stuff to break.
2. No forward fall fuckery when locked. The OGs still release when locked. Maybe that is a negative in very rare cases but I never had an issue.
3. The new one are easier to step in, but at the cost of more shit brakeing.
4. The evo heels are better, no argument.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cocximus

It's there a reason NOT to fill the heel with grease to prevent freezing. Grease can damage some plastics, but I doubt this is the case here. Happens very rarely on the spring, but it looks like the BC coast has eternal spring.

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Anyone have the definitive low down on this? Does filling with grease run the risk of making it worse (e.g. if it forms an emulsion with water) - And also what grease to use (silicon? white Lithium? PTFE bike lube? plumbers grease?)?

And while on the topic, has anyone solved this problem other ways (e.g. a rubber skirt glued on the back?)

FWIW, I have the final white generation that was supposed to have fixed this with the black plastic insert and have had the icing issue on my last four tours (taking the binding off, stuffing it in jacket for 20 mins, then banging /picking softened ice out and then hoping you get it back in more or less the right place is the repair - not a lot of fun in a 50mph wind with freezing rain). Again, fwiw, i have the occasional "return to walk" failure mode half way down a ski and now believe that this is the same problem - not enough ice buildup to stop it transitioning, but enough to make the lock only partial. Neither BD nor Fritschi seem to have much to say on this icing issue which is disappointing.

I had the grease filled heels heels in what likely would have resulted in frozen heels. Started in warm spring conditions that turned bellow -20. The heels felt a bit snug when closing but they closed without issues. I used regular ball joint black grease. Works, but it makes a nasty stain when carrying skis. Next time I would use something like Vaseline.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cocximus

I had the grease filled heels heels in what likely would have resulted in frozen heels. Started in warm spring conditions that turned bellow -20. The heels felt a bit snug when closing but they closed without issues. I used regular ball joint black grease. Works, but it makes a nasty stain when carrying skis. Next time I would use something like Vaseline.

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Celsius or Fahrenheit?

You want a plastic friendly grease.

... Thom

SI. Ball joins have rubber boots, it should be safe. Now I remember my silicone brake grease is probably best. Clear and safe on every possible type of plastic/rubber.

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^silicone

Not surprisingly, @spyderjon to the rescue - Molykote PG75. I believe it's the Plastislip variety, but yeah, good luck finding it in anything smaller than a large tub.

https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/showthread.php/317287-What-grease-to-use-for-G3-ions?p=5224809#post5224809

So, silicone it is.

... Thom

I might have posted this previously in whatever thread, not sure. Anyways, do you guys on the west side of the pond find Liqui Moly stuff in yer stores? If so, this is plastic compatible, and my choise for a binding greaser :

Attachment 366616

Fuck am I going to die now? Maybe I should wash off the Molly grease with brake cleaner.

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Has anyone had issues with the heel working its way backwards in the plate while touring? This keeps happening on my partner's binding and I have to readjust the length almost every tour or risk a Tele moment. Anything that might help keep it in place?

This is on the "black" vintage, if the evos are anything like the tectons I think the worm screw is stiffer.

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If the plate flush to the ski? The plate has two tabs that keep the worm screw in place but it also needs the ski to be tight to it. Maybe try shimming the tabs?

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by fleaches

Has anyone had issues with the heel working its way backwards in the plate while touring? This keeps happening on my partner's binding and I have to readjust the length almost every tour or risk a Tele moment. Anything that might help keep it in place?

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After going through parts of the thread (debated around page 25-28 or some such) and this thread warranty replacement of the heels seems to be the remedy. I think it has been discussed on this board before too, but can't recall the specifics.

I have never had it happen to me, so can't give any concrete advice.

What's up with the evo toe in the end? Does it need to be ground down? In a forward fall will either the boot or the binding get fucked for sure? It's way easier to walk out of it compared to the original toe. It pretty much has to be locked to tour. My original toes are getting really hard to get in to. I have to press on the toe lever to open the wings enough so my boots fit. Kinda like the onyx.

Anyone have an unused original vipec? Want to trade for a 1 tour vipec Evo?

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Shimmed mine with heatshrink.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...2017109dc6.jpg

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